From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 02:40:04 1998
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Message-ID: <001a01bd5d40$ccee47a0$307998cd@bernie>
From: "Bernie Jacobsen" <bcjac@ix.netcom.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Snake oil too??  High Temp Coatings
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 02:35:45 -0500
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Mark,

I considered that stuff... looks good, but how do you apply it to the
inside?

If I can figure that out,  I can save $250.00 !!

^Bernie


-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Romans <romans@pacbell.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Cc: dzorde@mail.geocities.com <dzorde@mail.geocities.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 11:48 PM
Subject: Re: Snake oil too?? High Temp Coatings


>Hello All:   Before you spend the money to have Jet Hot or some other
>company do your headers...  Look at
>http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/
>I ordered their 2000 deg satin black header coating for $47.00 us from
>Summit.  A friend gave me this address to check out their products.  I have
>been told that this is the exact same coating that all the companies like
>Jet Hot use.   This friend used the ceramachrome on his Hooker Super Comp
>headers a year ago and they still look perfect.   Just sand blast, clean,
>apply and bake,  There you go!
>DIY
>Mark
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Steve Lamb <lambs@HOTBLK.dsto.defence.gov.au>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Cc: dzorde@mail.geocities.com <dzorde@mail.geocities.com>
>Date: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 8:15 PM
>Subject: Re: Snake oil too??
>
>
>>>Does anyone in Australia have a contact number for anyone dealing in this
>>>stuff, currently I have had pricing on ceramic coating and found it
bloody
>>>expensive, other option is off course wrapping but it doesn't look that
>>>nice.  Not interested in the performance benefits (if there is one) but
>more
>>>in stopping everything in the engine bay getting cooked.
>>
>>JetHot supposedly started up a franchise in Melbourne in the past year or
>>so.  There's also a company under the name of (something like) High
>>Performance Coatings (HPC) somewhere in the outer Eastern suburbs.  Don't
>>have their numbers, but there are regular adverts in the motorsport mags -
>>if I remember I'll check tonight.  Don't know about other states (Yellow
>>Pages ??).
>>
>>
>>Steve Lamb
>>Department of Defence, DSTO
>>Aeronautical and Maritime Research Laboratory
>>506 Lorimer Street
>>Fishermans Bend  VIC 3207 Australia
>>
>>Tel: +61 3 9626 7525
>>Fax: +61 3 9626 7089
>>
>>IZCC #180
>>
>>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 04:06:27 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Snake oil too??  High Temp Coatings
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 10:03:15 +0100
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>I considered that stuff... looks good, but how do you apply it to the
>inside?

You can spray the stuff down your headers with a touch up gun pressuried
at 50psi.  If you are really going to go for it, do what the people who
import the stuff into the uk do.  Sand/Grit blast the item, and spray
the CBC coating and bake ( CBC2 for Stainless, CBC3 for other steel ),
then buff the headers with wire wool ( some wool on a wire coat hanger
down the insides of the pipes ).  Then finish off by spaying black satin
or blue ice or what ever colour you want ( they do purple ) on top of
this... apparently you can put your hand on the header while the engine
is running... but don't lick it though will you?


Rob Humphris
>



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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 06:18:50 1998
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Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 02:22:29 -0800
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Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net> wrote:
> In reference to the post Sat, about TBI using 1-5, and TPI using
> 2-10 on the injector timing.  Does any one see any fatal flaws
> about, building a circuit to convert one from the other.  ie:
>
> Using a TPI computer, and measuring it's pulse (don't ask it to
> say aaaah), and then divide by 2, and fire it twice as often.
>
> Then on a TBI doubling it's pulse lenght, and firing it half as often.

It doesn't work that way.

In batch PFI/TPI (at least for 1226870), hardware in the ECM divides the
distributor reference pulses by 2 (L4), 3 (V6), or 4 (V8).  The injector
firing is triggered by this divided signal.  The result is one firing
per cam revolution, aka two firings per intake valve opening.

In TBI (1226864 and probably 1227747 et al), the injector(s) are fired
once per distributor reference pulse, possibly with a time skew.

So, a TBI V8 fires it's injector(s) four times as often as a TPI V8. 
The TBI method ought to work with TPI, except that at high RPM, the
injector pulse rate may be too fast.

There's also the 160 Hz async fuel dribling, and the "only every other
injector event" stuff that will totally screw up your pulse width
measuring.

> It seems the Ford guys have no interest to help with this, so unless
> things change, I don't see doing that box.  The interest for the
> foreign crowd haven't said much, so unless there is demand for
> doing them, I don't see putting the effort into that either.  If they
> do have a "want" the above selection still would cover them.

Lately, diy_efi seems to be diy_gmefi.

               unsigned long BinToBCD(unsigned long i) {unsigned long t;
Ludis Langens     return i ? (t = BinToBCD(i >> 1), (t << 1) + (i & 1) + 
ludis@cruzers.com            (t + 858993459 >> 2 & 572662306) * 3) : 0;}



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 08:54:11 1998
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Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 08:50:23 -0800
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Diacom runs and ramblings (longish)
Cc: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
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>If you want to analyze the data with something more commonly available,
>try using Microsoft Access.  I think you can use it to pull in a text
>file, but I'm not sure.

YOu absoltuely can with Access, whether the file is space or comma delimited.

Just a FYI :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 09:01:26 1998
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Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 08:01:20 -0600
From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
Subject: Re: Mileage with a Motor Home
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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There's a software package called Home Dyno for $40 bucks that does this.

Or did you know that.

Joe Boucher
'70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban


>
>
> I am thinking of using a two-part method.  The first part will be easier
> if I can find a way to send the speedometer pulses from my cruise control
> into the Holley ECU, and have them recorded with the HONDO (on-board data
> gathering) program.  First, I'll go to a truck weigh station and get the
> Jeep weighed.  Then, I'll accelerate to 80 or 90, put the transmission in
> neutral, and record my speed as the friction slows the vehicle down.  If
> I make several runs in opposite directions, I'll be able to get a good
> curve of friction vs. speed
>
> The next step is to record acceleration at WOT.  I'll do that a few times
> in opposite directions.  After a few calculations, I'll have a good
> torque curve, corrected for transmission/t-case drag and torque converter
> slippage and torque multiplication.
>




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 09:23:11 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Snake oil too??  High Temp Coatings
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>headers a year ago and they still look perfect.   Just sand blast, clean,
>apply and bake,  There you go!

I've used that product (From Summit) to coat exhaust manifolds (not
headers, they wouldn't fit into my oven, and I'd probably have some
resistance from certain significant others who like to bake pasta <G>), and
it works very well, even with turbocharged applications.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 09:23:37 1998
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Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 09:20:08 -0800
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Snake oil too??  High Temp Coatings
In-Reply-To: <001a01bd5d40$ccee47a0$307998cd@bernie>
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>I considered that stuff... looks good, but how do you apply it to the
>inside?

I sprayed it using a Wagner Power Painter (those A/C house painters).
Doing the manifold was easy simply because its not that large, and their
are exhaust port holes to allow you to get inside.  headers would be more
difficult, but certainly doable :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 09:33:34 1998
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Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 15:31:45 +0100
From: Tony Cooper <tony.cooper@virgin.net>
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Hi all,

Been in lurk mode, but back now.

re. the 1100 cc Kawasaki efi - try the full setup from the Kawasaki
GPZ1100. It is fuel injected, injector per cylinder. It will just bolt
on I would think (You probably won;t even have to set anything up - it
will probably run straight out of the box - esspecially as your engine
is a Z1 engine - same as the GPZ11.

TTFN
Tony
-- 
Sent By Tony Cooper.
email: tony.cooper@virgin.net
Allow at least 10 working minutes for reply. ;)


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 09:49:03 1998
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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
Message-Id: <199804011533.JAA04481@horizon.hit.net>
Subject: Re: Diacom runs and ramblings (longish)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 09:33:51 -0600 (CST)
In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.19980401085023.007ad100@xephic.dynip.com> from "Frederic Breitwieser" at Apr 1, 98 08:50:23 am
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> 
> >If you want to analyze the data with something more commonly available,
> >try using Microsoft Access.  I think you can use it to pull in a text
> >file, but I'm not sure.
> 
> YOu absoltuely can with Access, whether the file is space or comma delimited.
> 
> Just a FYI :)
> 
> 

I have been outputting the diacom stuff in DBase format, and then reading 
it in with quickbasic to do analysis.  I prefer simple programming languages
over spreadsheets, it is alot simpler for complicated things.  I have mine
calculating various things from the data.  The DBase format is fairly easy
to reverse engineer.

					Roger

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 09:57:14 1998
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Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 09:59:30 -0500
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Subject: Re: Mileage with a Motor Home
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Alain Toussaint wrote:
> 
> > I like to cruise at around 80 :)   Trouble is, my GW has the aerodynamics
> > of a box.  Ah, well... there's more to life than gas mileage.  Converting
> > to run propane or methane would help, especially since it's so easy to
> > generate your own methane.
> 
> could you explain,i'd like to make my own,but i have some concern such as
> the price of generating methane mostly,i want to be able to have a big
> motor and cruise at a fairly high speed without costing much $$$.
> 
> Alain Toussaint (alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca)
Problem with methane is storage density. Best way to store it is
disolved in propane, believe it or not. For many years I had, but seem
to have misplaced, the details of a methane generator, storage, and
conversion system designed and operated by an old friend no longer with
us. Purity of the fuel is also a problem - getting the CO2 out of the
mixture is a big problem, and CO2 is a product of the same reaction that
produces methane. Nitrogen is also produced in quantity. The generation
system is not difficult, but you won't do it in an urban setting. On a
farm with lots of available biomass, it is not a bad proposition for
providing heat, and even running a generator/cogeneration system. For
road vehicle use, unless you can produce it from natural gas (and why
would you want to) it is not real practical.
In the war years, guys ran around with big "bladders" strapped to the
roof of their AustinSevens in England to run on methane - mad dogs and
Englishmen.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 10:00:34 1998
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Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 10:02:53 -0500
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Snake oil too??  High Temp Coatings
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Bernie Jacobsen wrote:
> 
> Mark,
> 
> I considered that stuff... looks good, but how do you apply it to the
> inside?
> 
> If I can figure that out,  I can save $250.00 !!
> 
> ^Bernie
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Romans <romans@pacbell.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Cc: dzorde@mail.geocities.com <dzorde@mail.geocities.com>
> Date: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 11:48 PM
> Subject: Re: Snake oil too?? High Temp Coatings
> 
> >Hello All:   Before you spend the money to have Jet Hot or some other
> >company do your headers...  Look at
> >http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/
> >I ordered their 2000 deg satin black header coating for $47.00 us from
> >Summit.  A friend gave me this address to check out their products.  I have
> >been told that this is the exact same coating that all the companies like
> >Jet Hot use.   This friend used the ceramachrome on his Hooker Super Comp
> >headers a year ago and they still look perfect.   Just sand blast, clean,
> >apply and bake,  There you go!
> >DIY
> >Mark
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Steve Lamb <lambs@HOTBLK.dsto.defence.gov.au>
> >To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> >Cc: dzorde@mail.geocities.com <dzorde@mail.geocities.com>
> >Date: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 8:15 PM
> >Subject: Re: Snake oil too??
> >
> >
> >>>Does anyone in Australia have a contact number for anyone dealing in this
> >>>stuff, currently I have had pricing on ceramic coating and found it
> bloody
> >>>expensive, other option is off course wrapping but it doesn't look that
> >>>nice.  Not interested in the performance benefits (if there is one) but
> >more
> >>>in stopping everything in the engine bay getting cooked.
> >>
> >>JetHot supposedly started up a franchise in Melbourne in the past year or
> >>so.  There's also a company under the name of (something like) High
> >>Performance Coatings (HPC) somewhere in the outer Eastern suburbs.  Don't
> >>have their numbers, but there are regular adverts in the motorsport mags -
> >>if I remember I'll check tonight.  Don't know about other states (Yellow
> >>Pages ??).
> >>
> >>
> >>Steve Lamb
> >>Department of Defence, DSTO
> >>Aeronautical and Maritime Research Laboratory
> >>506 Lorimer Street
> >>Fishermans Bend  VIC 3207 Australia
> >>
> >>Tel: +61 3 9626 7525
> >>Fax: +61 3 9626 7089
> >>
> >>IZCC #180
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
How about fogging it in with a sprayer, and rotating the header untill
all surfaces are covered either by the spray or the flow of the run-off?
A bit like coating the inside of an airframe with linseed oil. A bit
messy and time consuming - but it's your $250!!!
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 10:06:12 1998
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> > 
> > >If you want to analyze the data with something more commonly available,
> > >try using Microsoft Access.  I think you can use it to pull in a text
> > >file, but I'm not sure.
> > 
> > YOu absoltuely can with Access, whether the file is space or comma delimited.
> > 
> > Just a FYI :)
> > 
> > 
> 
> I have been outputting the diacom stuff in DBase format, and then reading 
> it in with quickbasic to do analysis.  I prefer simple programming languages
> over spreadsheets, it is alot simpler for complicated things.  I have mine
> calculating various things from the data.  The DBase format is fairly easy
> to reverse engineer.
> 
> 					Roger
> 
But access isn't a spreadsheet, it's a database program.

Martin

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 10:31:38 1998
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Message-Id: <199804011531.IAA12707@hprs9.mdhc.mdc.com>
Subject: Re: Snake oil too??  High Temp Coatings
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 08:31:14 -0700 (MST)
In-Reply-To: <c=US%a=_%p=Indigo_Active_Vi%l=CRIANLARICH-980401090315Z-418@crianlarich.indigo-avs.com> from "Robert Humphris" at Apr 1, 98 10:03:15 am
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Helicopter
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Robert Humphris wrote:
> 
> >I considered that stuff... looks good, but how do you apply it to the
> >inside?
> 
> You can spray the stuff down your headers with a touch up gun pressuried
> at 50psi.  If you are really going to go for it, do what the people who
> import the stuff into the uk do.  Sand/Grit blast the item, and spray
> the CBC coating and bake ( CBC2 for Stainless, CBC3 for other steel ),
> then buff the headers with wire wool ( some wool on a wire coat hanger
> down the insides of the pipes ).  Then finish off by spaying black satin
> or blue ice or what ever colour you want ( they do purple ) on top of
> this... apparently you can put your hand on the header while the engine
> is running... but don't lick it though will you?
> 

Would this stuff work on the turbine housing of a turbo?  Seems like  
it would if it works on headers, but I've seen pictures with the turbine
red hot while I've never seen headers glow quite so brightly.  What is
the temp limit for these coatings?

--Dan

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 11:15:42 1998
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Dear Sirs;
     Please take me off of your mailing list.  Thanks
     
                                             Ken Tretter
                                             ktretter@i1.net  ( i as in ida, 
one)


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 11:19:23 1998
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From: John Hess <johnhess@cris.com>
Subject: Re: Diacom runs and ramblings (longish)
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Hey, this one sounds interesting.  Can those of you who have analysis
programs for the Diacom and Diacom plus expound on what you are doing or
even submit your programs, themselves?

At 09:33 AM 4/1/98 -0600, you wrote:
>> 
>> >If you want to analyze the data with something more commonly available,
>> >try using Microsoft Access.  I think you can use it to pull in a text
>> >file, but I'm not sure.
>> 
>> YOu absoltuely can with Access, whether the file is space or comma
delimited.
>> 
>> Just a FYI :)
>> 
>> 
>
>I have been outputting the diacom stuff in DBase format, and then reading 
>it in with quickbasic to do analysis.  I prefer simple programming languages
>over spreadsheets, it is alot simpler for complicated things.  I have mine
>calculating various things from the data.  The DBase format is fairly easy
>to reverse engineer.
>
>					Roger
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 12:10:29 1998
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From: "Fitzgearld, Fredric" <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu "
	 <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: More Projection stuff
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 08:58:00 -0800 
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Ok, I probably shouldn't have, but I just ordered the Holley, 502-20, 
open loop, TBI system (its' the digital version of the old analog 
system).  I'm hoping to use it as a base for some experiments I've been 
thinking about.  I also hope to use it as a learning tool.

Questions:
1.  What is the difference between the "502-20" and the 4Di ECM?
2.  Is there a way to make a PC interface for the 502-20 like the 4Di 
3.  Anybody have any interesting bits of information on this system?

Other comments are welcome.

Thanks, 

FEF 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 12:13:16 1998
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From: "Gwyn Reedy" <mgr@mgrcorp.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Mileage with a Motor Home
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 11:51:33 -0000
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Where do you get it?

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, April 01, 1998 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: Mileage with a Motor Home


>There's a software package called Home Dyno for $40 bucks that does this.



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 12:24:11 1998
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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re[2]: Diacom runs and ramblings (longish)
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     Umm...pretty much any spreadsheet/database program can be used to 
     analyze the Diacom data. I do it all the time. Export the Diacom data 
     into DBIII format, and import into anything. What I then do is write 
     some quick off hand queries to analyze, say, average O2 readings 
     between 75-100% throttle, or avg knock retard per 500 rpm increase, 
     etc. So, while I don't have a "program" to specifically do this, 
     anyone can with a little effort.
     
     TTYL!
     
     Larry Kurek


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Diacom runs and ramblings (longish)
Author:  <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu> at internet
Date:    4/1/98 10:18 AM


Hey, this one sounds interesting.  Can those of you who have analysis 
programs for the Diacom and Diacom plus expound on what you are doing or 
even submit your programs, themselves?
     
At 09:33 AM 4/1/98 -0600, you wrote: 
>> 
>> >If you want to analyze the data with something more commonly available, 
>> >try using Microsoft Access.  I think you can use it to pull in a text 
>> >file, but I'm not sure.
>> 
>> YOu absoltuely can with Access, whether the file is space or comma 
delimited.
>> 
>> Just a FYI :)
>> 
>> 
>
>I have been outputting the diacom stuff in DBase format, and then reading 
>it in with quickbasic to do analysis.  I prefer simple programming languages 
>over spreadsheets, it is alot simpler for complicated things.  I have mine 
>calculating various things from the data.  The DBase format is fairly easy 
>to reverse engineer.
>
>                                        Roger 
>
>
     



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 12:34:37 1998
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From: "Fitzgearld, Fredric" <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu "
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        Tony Cooper 
	 <tony.cooper@virgin.net>
Subject: RE: Motorcycle EFI?
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 09:13:00 -0800 
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WooHoo!!!!  Pinch me, man.  I must be dreaming!

Very nice to have a list like this, for those of us not even worthy to 
wear the CSH.  :)

Thanks,

FEF 


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Re: Motorcycle EFI?
Author:  Tony Cooper [SMTP:tony.cooper@virgin.net]  at MSXGATE
Date:    4/1/98 6:31 AM


Hi all,

Been in lurk mode, but back now.

re. the 1100 cc Kawasaki efi - try the full setup from the Kawasaki
GPZ1100. It is fuel injected, injector per cylinder. It will just bolt
on I would think (You probably won;t even have to set anything up - it
will probably run straight out of the box - esspecially as your engine
is a Z1 engine - same as the GPZ11.

TTFN
Tony
--
Sent By Tony Cooper.
email: tony.cooper@virgin.net
Allow at least 10 working minutes for reply. ;)

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 13:06:13 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: More Projection stuff
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-----Original Message-----
From: Fitzgearld, Fredric <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, April 01, 1998 12:46 PM
Subject: More Projection stuff


>Ok, I probably shouldn't have, but I just ordered the Holley, 502-20, 
>open loop, TBI system (its' the digital version of the old analog 
>system).  I'm hoping to use it as a base for some experiments I've been 
>thinking about.  I also hope to use it as a learning tool.
>
>Questions:
>1.  What is the difference between the "502-20" and the 4Di ECM?

You got the analog system, just some dials to twist to calibrate it.
The digitial is the 504 series...

>2.  Is there a way to make a PC interface for the 502-20 like the 4Di 

No tables, nothing to look at, sept buy a o-scope adapter, and look
at pulse lenghts.  

>3.  Anybody have any interesting bits of information on this system?
>
>Other comments are welcome.


Sounds like ya got something crossed on numbers of discription,
my book says 502-20 Analog.   504 digitial

>Thanks, 
>
>FEF 

No worries mate
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 13:12:30 1998
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From: d houlton x0710  <tc75918@hpnfssvr.mdhc.mdc.com>
Message-Id: <199804011811.LAA13896@hprs9.mdhc.mdc.com>
Subject: Re: Snake oil too??  High Temp Coatings
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 11:11:33 -0700 (MST)
In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.19980401092008.007a4570@xephic.dynip.com> from "Frederic Breitwieser" at Apr 1, 98 09:20:08 am
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Helicopter
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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> >I considered that stuff... looks good, but how do you apply it to the
> >inside?
> 
> I sprayed it using a Wagner Power Painter (those A/C house painters).
> Doing the manifold was easy simply because its not that large, and their
> are exhaust port holes to allow you to get inside.  headers would be more
> difficult, but certainly doable :)

How hard would it be to rig a nozzle on the end of flexible hose and
attach it to the sprayer?  Drop the hose down the tube, hit the switch 
and slowly draw it back out.

--Dan

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 14:02:23 1998
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Subject: Re: More Projection stuff
References: <199804011709.JAA25251@thalia.fm.intel.com>
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I hate to say this...  how much did you spend on that projection?  The
digital and digital interactive are MUCH better systems.  Let me know if
you need any help with tuning, etc.  The system you ordered uses no O2
sensor (open loop), is tuned with your fingers (on pots on the ECU), and
has no PC interface.  It does not even have a microprocessor.  
-- 
Andy Quaas

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 15:32:50 1998
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From: charlesg@cco.caltech.edu (Charles Grosjean)
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Subject: Re: Snake oil too?? High Temp Coatings
Date: 1 Apr 1998 20:31:58 GMT
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d houlton x0710  <tc75918@hpnfssvr.mdhc.mdc.com> writes:

>How hard would it be to rig a nozzle on the end of flexible hose and
>attach it to the sprayer?  Drop the hose down the tube, hit the switch 
>and slowly draw it back out.

That would be a FloCoater (TM). Check out www.wco.com/~sc7500 for MicroCoat's
homepage. FWIW, any honest coater should tell you that they are using products
available from techline and others and that you are paying for prep and labor,
and possibly some custom formulations (HPC's cool purple color =).

Someone asked about temp range, with undercoatings, some coatings will survive
at up to 2000F, although they might lose gloss or discolor.

If you have access to a blasting cabinet, sprayer, and oven, then it's very
doable at home. I'm not good with paint so I'll pay someone else.

Charles

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 16:10:54 1998
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Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 07:15:59 +1000
From: Justin Albury <jalbury@tpgi.com.au>
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who wanted the F3 progie????????
it bounced from the server and i only just noticed(file too large)

Juz!

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 17:03:01 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Projection
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 17:02:26 -0500
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Welp my catalog was outta date.  A new 2 barrel digitial design?.
Does it have a MAP sensor?.
Does it have a IAC, or just a throttle kicker?.
Does it sit use the knobs for adjustments?.
You happen to have the patent numbers?.
Bruce



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From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
Subject: Re: Mileage with a Motor Home
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Message-id: <3522BD1F.C303000B@lmtas.lmco.com>
Organization: Lockheed Martin
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Ooops. It's called dynacam.

Try www.dynacam.com, but I'm getting a "File contains no data" answer.

Gwyn Reedy wrote:

> Where do you get it?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Wednesday, April 01, 1998 3:04 PM
> Subject: Re: Mileage with a Motor Home
>
> >There's a software package called Home Dyno for $40 bucks that does this.




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 17:23:23 1998
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I would like a copy , please.
Thank you,
Tom

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 17:42:05 1998
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From: "Tyson McPherson" <tyson@ns.net>
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Subject: Re: More Projection stuff
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 14:43:50 -0800
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The 502-20 is a digital replacement for all of the two barrel analog kits.
It is still a open loop system that is adjustable via the familiar control
knobs, and there is no interface for any type of PC. This new box does allow
for the user to plug a oxygen sensor directly into the ECU; to allow for
limited closed loop operation.

The 4DI is a better system, but it does cost more.

Tyson
tyson@ns.net



-----Original Message-----
From: Fitzgearld, Fredric <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, April 01, 1998 9:53 AM
Subject: More Projection stuff


>Ok, I probably shouldn't have, but I just ordered the Holley, 502-20,
>open loop, TBI system (its' the digital version of the old analog
>system).  I'm hoping to use it as a base for some experiments I've been
>thinking about.  I also hope to use it as a learning tool.
>
>Questions:
>1.  What is the difference between the "502-20" and the 4Di ECM?
>2.  Is there a way to make a PC interface for the 502-20 like the 4Di
>3.  Anybody have any interesting bits of information on this system?
>
>Other comments are welcome.
>
>Thanks,
>
>FEF
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 17:44:45 1998
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Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 14:44:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Sun Dang <sunn@u.washington.edu>
To: DIY_EFI <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: rebuilding turbo
In-Reply-To: <3522AE8F.4C75@tpgi.com.au>
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I know this is off subject, but anyone who has rebuilt a turbo could you
please e-mail me privately.  I need info on how to do it, and any tips
they could give.  Thanks.

Sun Dang
http://weber.u.washington.edu/~sunn


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 17:59:38 1998
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From: "Fitzgearld, Fredric" <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu "
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        Bruce Plecan  <nacelp@bright.net>
Subject: RE: More Projection stuff
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HuMmmmmm...  I was told that the #502-20 (Universal 2D Digital System 
$625.) replaced the, now discontinued, 502-2 (analog system ~$500.).  
It's so new (I guess) that I didn't even see it on Holley's WEB page 
when I went to look.  The 4D and 4Di are about 2x the price.  I would 
love to have the 4Di but the low end will do just as well, for my 
application (rock crawling).  If they send me an analog system, it's 
going back.  I don't want any part of that, again.

I shouldn't have any trouble tuning it as I had the analog system for a 
while.  The brain died and they said it would cost $400. to replace it.  
So, instead of trying to fix/replace the analog ECU I just broke down 
and got the "NEW" system.  I'm hoping that the analog injectors, TPS, 
and stuff will be compatible with the anolog system as I have a bunch of 
new stuff for that system.

You can see the info at:
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/genpg.pl?products/Fuel/projec/



FEF


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Re: More Projection stuff
Author:  Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]  at MSXGATE
Date:    4/1/98 10:05 AM


-----Original Message-----
From: Fitzgearld, Fredric <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, April 01, 1998 12:46 PM
Subject: More Projection stuff


>Ok, I probably shouldn't have, but I just ordered the Holley, 502-20,
>open loop, TBI system (its' the digital version of the old analog
>system).  I'm hoping to use it as a base for some experiments I've been
>thinking about.  I also hope to use it as a learning tool.
>
>Questions:
>1.  What is the difference between the "502-20" and the 4Di ECM?

You got the analog system, just some dials to twist to calibrate it.
The digitial is the 504 series...

>2.  Is there a way to make a PC interface for the 502-20 like the 4Di

No tables, nothing to look at, sept buy a o-scope adapter, and look
at pulse lenghts.

>3.  Anybody have any interesting bits of information on this system?
>
>Other comments are welcome.


Sounds like ya got something crossed on numbers of discription,
my book says 502-20 Analog.   504 digitial

>Thanks,
>
>FEF

No worries mate
Bruce

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 18:14:30 1998
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To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu "
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: More Projection stuff
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It sounds like this low end system is fairly new.  If the list is 
interested, I can post a list of the chips in the "NEW" 2D ECU.  I can 
even compare it to the list of chips in the analog system that I got 
from the archive.  I don't know...  It's kinda interesting to me.

Is there a list of chips for the 4D and 4Di systems, somewhere?  That 
might be an even more interesting comparison.  At least for those of us 
not even worthy to wear the CSH.  :)

That is if anyone is interested.

FEF 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 19:05:07 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: More Projection stuff
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 19:04:37 -0500
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From: Fitzgearld, Fredric <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>;
Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
Date: Wednesday, April 01, 1998 6:48 PM
Subject: RE: More Projection stuff


>HuMmmmmm...  I was told that the #502-20 (Universal 2D Digital System
>$625.) replaced the, now discontinued, 502-2 (analog system ~$500.).
>It's so new (I guess) that I didn't even see it on Holley's WEB page
>when I went to look.  The 4D and 4Di are about 2x the price.  I would
>love to have the 4Di but the low end will do just as well, for my
>application (rock crawling).  If they send me an analog system, it's
>going back.  I don't want any part of that, again.
>
>I shouldn't have any trouble tuning it as I had the analog system for a
>while.  The brain died and they said it would cost $400. to replace it.

If ya ain't gonna fix it, I'd like to talk a look inside.  Does it come with
a MAP sensor, according to the Jegs catalog, says it's speed density
Now I curious if it is better than the Alpha-N.

Also curious about the chips nos..

>FEF
>
Bruce  This message originated at CSH World Headquarters


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 19:36:21 1998
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Please do post the list of chips for that 2D!  I think i am in the wrong
about that system.  I have heard about this 2D system, but the part
number and the 2D designation are beyond my books and knowledge.  If it
is in fact digital, it will contain a microprocessor.  I would also
think it would have an O2 sensor, but i may be wrong.  If not, it should
have expansion for it.  If it does, GET IT!  I have heard that the 4D
system can be made to use the 4Di software for a PC.
-- 
Andy Quaas

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 19:44:34 1998
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To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu "
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        Bruce Plecan  <nacelp@bright.net>
Subject: RE: Projection
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 16:32:00 -0800 
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I'm pretty sure it's just like the old analog system with a temp sensor, 
trigger, TPS, and the possible addition of a O2 sensor.  It has the 
tuning pots like the old system.  I know this is a lot to ask for, but I 
would love to be able to program this unit via the PC, or something, 
then tune for altitude as needed.  I wouldn't even need to do that if I 
put a O2 sensor on it.

The main reason I got the 2D system, instead of the 4Di system, is due 
to the lack of funds in the budget.  I know it's crude at best but the 
way I see it, any kind of FI is going to be better then the carb when 
changing altitudes a lot.  Changing jets and rods all the time stink.  
Not to mention the fact that FI will run upside down, an important part 
of rock crawling.

FEF 


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Projection
Author:  Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]  at MSXGATE
Date:    4/1/98 2:02 PM


Welp my catalog was outta date.  A new 2 barrel digitial design?.
Does it have a MAP sensor?.
Does it have a IAC, or just a throttle kicker?.
Does it sit use the knobs for adjustments?.
You happen to have the patent numbers?.
Bruce

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 20:02:23 1998
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Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 18:55:08 -0600
From: Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
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Subject: Re: More Projection stuff
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Would you sell the bad box ? if so How much ? contact me off line.
Steven Gorkowski

Email me at
kb4mxo@mwt.net

Fitzgearld, Fredric wrote:

> HuMmmmmm...  I was told that the #502-20 (Universal 2D Digital System
> $625.) replaced the, now discontinued, 502-2 (analog system ~$500.).
> It's so new (I guess) that I didn't even see it on Holley's WEB page
> when I went to look.  The 4D and 4Di are about 2x the price.  I would
> love to have the 4Di but the low end will do just as well, for my
> application (rock crawling).  If they send me an analog system, it's
> going back.  I don't want any part of that, again.
>
> I shouldn't have any trouble tuning it as I had the analog system for
> a
> while.  The brain died and they said it would cost $400. to replace
> it.
> So, instead of trying to fix/replace the analog ECU I just broke down
> and got the "NEW" system.  I'm hoping that the analog injectors, TPS,
> and stuff will be compatible with the anolog system as I have a bunch
> of
> new stuff for that system.
>
> You can see the info at:
> http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/genpg.pl?products/Fuel/projec/
>
> FEF
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator
> _________________________________
> Subject: Re: More Projection stuff
> Author:  Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]  at MSXGATE
> Date:    4/1/98 10:05 AM
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fitzgearld, Fredric <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Wednesday, April 01, 1998 12:46 PM
> Subject: More Projection stuff
>
> >Ok, I probably shouldn't have, but I just ordered the Holley, 502-20,
>
> >open loop, TBI system (its' the digital version of the old analog
> >system).  I'm hoping to use it as a base for some experiments I've
> been
> >thinking about.  I also hope to use it as a learning tool.
> >
> >Questions:
> >1.  What is the difference between the "502-20" and the 4Di ECM?
>
> You got the analog system, just some dials to twist to calibrate it.
> The digitial is the 504 series...
>
> >2.  Is there a way to make a PC interface for the 502-20 like the 4Di
>
> No tables, nothing to look at, sept buy a o-scope adapter, and look
> at pulse lenghts.
>
> >3.  Anybody have any interesting bits of information on this system?
> >
> >Other comments are welcome.
>
> Sounds like ya got something crossed on numbers of discription,
> my book says 502-20 Analog.   504 digitial
>
> >Thanks,
> >
> >FEF
>
> No worries mate
> Bruce




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 20:07:57 1998
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Send me a copy if you could.

Steven Gorkowski
kb4mxo@mwt.net

Justin Albury wrote:

> who wanted the F3 progie????????
> it bounced from the server and i only just noticed(file too large)
>
> Juz!




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Cc: cosmic.ray@juno.com, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 19:21:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Mileage with a Motor Home
Message-ID: <19980401.201717.9390.0.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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From: cosmic.ray@juno.com (Raymond C Drouillard)
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On Wed, 1 Apr 1998 00:43:41 -0500 (EST) Alain Toussaint
<alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca> writes:
>> I like to cruise at around 80 :)   Trouble is, my GW has the
aerodynamics
>> of a box.  Ah, well... there's more to life than gas mileage. 
Converting
>> to run propane or methane would help, especially since it's so easy to
>> generate your own methane.
>
>could you explain,i'd like to make my own,but i have some concern such
as
>the price of generating methane mostly,i want to be able to have a big
>motor and cruise at a fairly high speed without costing much $$$.
>
>Alain Toussaint (alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca)
>

To generate your own methane, just eat lots of beans and other fiberous
foods.  (Unfortunately, you won't get enough to run an engine for very
long.)

All kidding aside, it's easy in princable to generate methane.  You'll
need a large air-tight container, some bacteria (E. Coli will work), and
lots of organic matter.  You could probablly modify your septic tank to
do the trick.

Put the organic matter (grass clippings, leaves, table scraps, manure,
etc) into the airtight container and keep the oxygen out.  As soon as the
oxygen in the container has been used up, the bacteria will start
producing methane.  Use a fitting and a hose at the other end.  You'll
want to filter the methane, perhaps by bubbling it through water and
passing it through an automotive air filter.

I'm sure that there will be more details to work out when you actually
start building the system, but the princable is simple.  (Ray's first law
of engineering and program: It's always more complicated than it looks)

I saw a compresser at the Detroit North American Auto Show that is used
to compress the natural gas that is piped to most urban and suburban
houses and store it in the vehicle's CNG (compressed natural gas) tanks.

Can't beat that... turn grass clippings and du-du into fuel for your car
and home.

One of my later projects is to find a way to use the Holley Pro-Jection
system to control some valves and esentially inject the propane or
methane into the manifold.

By the way, there are other advantages of using propane or methane as a
fuel.  They have high octane values (I have heard 110-120 for propane,
130 for methane).

Also, your oil will last longer and remain cleaner.

The disadvantage is that they contain less energy than Gasoline.  That
can be compensated for by raising the compression, using an engine with
more displacement, or supercharging.  You can get away with a lot because
of the high octane.

Also, some states will let you modify the engine all you want if you burn
these alternate fuels.  You'll just have to pass a tailpipe test, which
is easy to do, since these fuels burn very cleanly.  I don't know the
details because I live in a state where the smog police don't come
calling.

Ray Drouillard


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 21:03:08 1998
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Subject: Compressed Natural Gas
In-reply-to: Your message of "Wed, 01 Apr 1998 20:20:33 EST."
             <199804020120.UAA29298@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu> 
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 18:02:49 -0800
From: Kelly Murray <kem@franz.com>
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>..
> I saw a compresser at the Detroit North American Auto Show that is used
> to compress the natural gas that is piped to most urban and suburban
> houses and store it in the vehicle's CNG (compressed natural gas) tanks.
>..
> By the way, there are other advantages of using propane or methane as a
> fuel.  They have high octane values (I have heard 110-120 for propane,
> 130 for methane).

The high octane rating of CNG has got me thinking about
using it over methanol when running in a boost state.
This should allow a high compression ratio for non-boost conditions
when running on gasoline, such as freeway crusing,
and then flow the CNG when the boost comes in.
Only a small tank of CNG would be needed, not some heavy monster tank.
If the CNG runs out, just wastegate out the boost until you get home
to fill it up again from the public-utility natural gas supply
running off your CNG compressor.  Sounds like a plan to me!
Are the electronically controlled CNG regulators?

-Kelly Murray  kem@franz.com
  http://www.htrd.com/kem/efi.html -- needs up now for CNG!

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 21:45:34 1998
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Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 20:44:11 -0600
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John Hess wrote:
> 
> Hey, this one sounds interesting.  Can those of you who have analysis
> programs for the Diacom and Diacom plus expound on what you are doing or
> even submit your programs, themselves?
> 
> At 09:33 AM 4/1/98 -0600, you wrote:
> >>
> >> >If you want to analyze the data with something more commonly available,
> >> >try using Microsoft Access.  I think you can use it to pull in a text
> >> >file, but I'm not sure.
> >>
> >> YOu absoltuely can with Access, whether the file is space or comma
> delimited.
> >>
> >> Just a FYI :)
> >>
> >>
> >
> >I have been outputting the diacom stuff in DBase format, and then reading
> >it in with quickbasic to do analysis.  I prefer simple programming languages
> >over spreadsheets, it is alot simpler for complicated things.  I have mine
> >calculating various things from the data.  The DBase format is fairly easy
> >to reverse engineer.
> >
> >                                       Roger
> >
> >

Well, here is the basic code to determine what variables are in what 
columns and load the data into variables.   This basic code can be 
used to setup a program to read in a diacom file from a car with
the needed columns and load it into variables.  After you find out
what variable is in what column you can then do whatever calculations 
you want to.   If you had the diacom plus certain arrays would need
to be enlarged to handle it.  The program handles the data in whatever
order diacom outputs it in, since order does not seem to be consistant.

Code follows:

DIM record AS STRING * 16
DIM vn AS INTEGER
DIM frame AS INTEGER
DIM i AS INTEGER
DIM byteloc AS LONG
TYPE varinfo
  vname AS STRING * 16
  vtype AS STRING * 1
END TYPE
DIM onechar AS STRING * 1
DIM twochar AS STRING * 2
DIM eightchar AS STRING * 7
DIM valuec(50, 200) AS STRING * 6
DIM maxspeed AS INTEGER
DIM speedvar AS INTEGER
DIM timevar AS INTEGER
DIM rpmvar AS INTEGER
DIM airvar AS INTEGER
DIM knockvar AS INTEGER
DIM throtposvar AS INTEGER
DIM lefto2var AS INTEGER
DIM righto2var AS INTEGER
DIM advvar AS INTEGER
DIM weight AS SINGLE
DIM a AS INTEGER
DIM variable(50) AS varinfo
DIM filename AS STRING * 64
FILES "*.dbf"
PRINT "Enter the name of the file"
INPUT filename
OPEN filename FOR BINARY AS #1
OPEN "output.dat" FOR OUTPUT AS #2
GET #1, , record
vn = 1

GET #1, , record
GET #1, , record

WHILE ASC(LEFT$(record, 1)) <> 13
  i = 1
  WHILE i < 16 AND ASC(MID$(record, i, 1)) <> 0
    i = i + 1
  WEND
  variable(vn).vname = LEFT$(record, i - 1)
  variable(vn).vtype = MID$(record, 12, 1)
  IF (LEFT$(variable(vn).vname, 10) = "VHCL_SPEED") THEN
    speedvar = vn
  ELSEIF (LEFT$(variable(vn).vname, 9) = "Frame_num") THEN
    timevar = vn
  ELSEIF (LEFT$(variable(vn).vname, 10) = "ENGINE_RPM") THEN
    rpmvar = vn
  ELSEIF (LEFT$(variable(vn).vname, 8) = "SPRK_ADV") THEN
    advvar = vn
  ELSEIF (LEFT$(variable(vn).vname, 10) = "KNOCK_RETD") THEN
    knockvar = vn
  ELSEIF (LEFT$(variable(vn).vname, 8) = "AIR_FLOW") THEN
    airvar = vn
  ELSEIF (LEFT$(variable(vn).vname, 9) = "THROT_POS") THEN
    throtposvar = vn
  ELSEIF (LEFT$(variable(vn).vname, 7) = "LEFT_O2") THEN
    lefto2var = vn
  ELSEIF (LEFT$(variable(vn).vname, 8) = "RIGHT_O2") THEN
    righto2var = vn
  END IF

  vn = vn + 1
  GET #1, , record
  byteloc = LOC(1)
  GET #1, , record
WEND
vn = vn - 1
PRINT USING "## variables found"; vn
FOR i = 1 TO vn
  PRINT USING "  ## \           \ \\"; i; variable(i).vname; variable(i).vtype
NEXT i
GET #1, byteloc, twochar
FOR frame = 1 TO 200
FOR i = 1 TO vn - 1
  GET #1, , valuec(i, frame)
NEXT i
GET #1, , valuec(vn, frame)
GET #1, , onechar
NEXT frame




--

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 21:51:53 1998
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From: "Michael J. Kupec" <mkupec@erols.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Projection
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 21:56:04 -0500
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Fredric,

I thought your name looked familiar. Nice to see fellow EB members here on
this list. I wasn't aware you were running a Projection on your EB. Anyway,
if you find out that the older analog stuff won't work on the new system,
let me know, I'd be interested in the parts.

You're right about the O2 setup for the 2D. The older system uses an add on
box that modifies the TPS signal to make the system either lean or richen
the injector flow. Neither the 2D or the analog has/had a MAP sensor. Both
just take the TPS and distributor pulses and use that to change the fuel
flow throught the injectors, crude, but it works. The 2D is simpler, just an
O2 and the wiring harness is all you need. Not sure if Holley use a heated
one or not though.  All the temp sensor is used for is for cold starting of
the engine. After the engine is at operating temp, the temp sensor is out of
the loop.

BTW what's the chance of you scanning in the manual and sending it to me?
Mostly I want to see what differences they did at the ECU plug. I'm thinking
I might be able to use a 2D whenever my analog system dies.

Anyone got the manual for the 4D/4Di? It'd be interesting see what I can do
with a 4's computer and the 2BBl TBI.

Michael J. Kupec
mkupec@erols.com

I live with constant fear and danger every day...
    and sometimes she lets me go four-wheeling!

Get in, Sit down, Shut up, and Hold on!

Management & Data Systems, Lockheed Martin Corporation
Woodbridge, Virginia, USA (703) 680-6903
1970 Bronco w/351W (in a constant state of dissassembly/refinement...)
1964 1/2 260 Convertible  w/PS, PB, & Power Top
1965 289 HP "K" Coupe w/PS, PB, & Pony Int. (Early '65, not a GT)

-----Original Message-----
From: Fitzgearld, Fredric <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>;
Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
Date: Wednesday, April 01, 1998 8:30 PM
Subject: RE: Projection


>I'm pretty sure it's just like the old analog system with a temp sensor,
>trigger, TPS, and the possible addition of a O2 sensor.  It has the
>tuning pots like the old system.  I know this is a lot to ask for, but I
>would love to be able to program this unit via the PC, or something,
>then tune for altitude as needed.  I wouldn't even need to do that if I
>put a O2 sensor on it.
>
>The main reason I got the 2D system, instead of the 4Di system, is due
>to the lack of funds in the budget.  I know it's crude at best but the
>way I see it, any kind of FI is going to be better then the carb when
>changing altitudes a lot.  Changing jets and rods all the time stink.
>Not to mention the fact that FI will run upside down, an important part
>of rock crawling.
>
>FEF
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
>_________________________________
>Subject: Projection
>Author:  Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]  at MSXGATE
>Date:    4/1/98 2:02 PM
>
>
>Welp my catalog was outta date.  A new 2 barrel digitial design?.
>Does it have a MAP sensor?.
>Does it have a IAC, or just a throttle kicker?.
>Does it sit use the knobs for adjustments?.
>You happen to have the patent numbers?.
>Bruce
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 22:18:22 1998
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From: "Eric Elliott" <eelliott@arkansas.net>
To: <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Ford Triton
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 21:17:11 -0600
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Hello,
What custom stuff exists for the 5.4 L Triton engine?
Has anyone reprogrammed the PCM?
I would like to have the 5.4 run like the 4.0 does. My 97 Explorer 4 L has
same gear ratio weighs 4300 & could easily outrun my 4700 pound 98 F250 5.4
L. The 4 L is tame below 3000 RPM. Runs strong from 3000 to 6000. The 5.4 L
is strong from 2000 to 4000 & done at 4700 RPM.
If the 5.4 L got cams cut like the 4 L engine has and some PCM code from the
4 L....

Eric




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 22:42:18 1998
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Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 22:40:33 -0500 (EST)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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Subject: magazine article: build the data monitor
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there's an article in the "electronic now" magazine that i think should be
interresting to all,here's an excerpt (hope i spell it right):
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
	Imagine how useful it would be to be able to monitor and record
information about your environment for extended periods of time without
having to be physically there. With a variety of input sensors,you could
analyze the temperature of your attic to see if really needed those ridge
vents........(unimportant stuff skipped)..........Now imagine how useful
such a device would be if it could be run from either battery or AC power
and didn't need to be tied to a PC to store information.

	The data monitor described in the this article is just such an
instrument. It is highly configurable, low in cost (my eyes,the company in
question ask 299$ for an assembled unit with the software for win3.1 and
95) and easy to use. It can monitor and store up to four analog and four
digital inputs at the same time. The sampling rate can be set anywhere
from 30 milliseconds to more than 49 days. There is also an eight-term
complex trigger that can include up to four digital and four analog
inputs. All the information is recorded in an EEPROM that has a capacity
of 2048 words (does it have an IDE interface ???)..........(lot O'stuff
skipped).........

	The data monitor's hardware can monitor and record almost any
electronic or electrical circuit through the use of plug-in personality
modules. An accompanying article details the building of a general-purpose
personality module that include four digital and three analog (where's the
fourth ????????? ok,just kidding) inputs. Also included is a temperature
sensor that use the data monitor's fourth analog input (did i said
anything about a fourth input ??? well never mind). Altough not needed to
test the data monitor,buiding that personality module is a good idea and
is very handy for testing the various functions of the data monitor.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

if ya want the full stories (and the plan of the thing) get the April 98
issue of Electronic now,along with the personality module,this is the main
article of the mag so you wont miss it !!!

Alain Toussaint (alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca)

Frederic Breitweiser: your inbox dont seem to receive message i send,my
isp has been trying to send you a messages for the past 4 hours (in fact,i
sent it this morning).


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 23:19:58 1998
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Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 20:27:11 +0000
From: Ron Tyler <dcmckenna@worldnet.att.net>
Organization: T. Engineering
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Hello All,

     I installed a '95 LT1 in my 240Z. I have removed EGR, air pump,
canister purge valve, shift indicator lamp, and MIL. Everything else is
intact. About 30 seconds after starting the car, the cooling fan
activates. Is this some sort of quasi limp-home mode due to the missing
components? The PCM *does* go into closed loop, so I am assuming that it
isnt a full blown "limp". Would I be correct?

TIA
-- 
Ron & Stephanie Tyler
'72 LT1/T56 240Z
http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  1 23:57:26 1998
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Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 23:55:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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forgot a thing,the e-mail address of the company making it is:

JVEntrepri@aol.com

Alain Toussaint


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 00:10:31 1998
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From: "Tyson McPherson" <tyson@ns.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Projection      502-20 2bbl Digital ProJection
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 21:11:40 -0800
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I am positive that the O2 sensor used with the 502-20 is the same as used in
the 4d/di systems (three wire).
No IAC, or MAP sensor.

The 502-20 is the same 502-1 or 502-2 kit, but with a digital box. The
digital box is still adjustable like the analog box was, but you can
directly plug the O2 sensor into to it for closed loop operation (based on
RPM, TPS, and O2 readings).

Closed loop kit is part number 534-54


>>Welp my catalog was outta date.  A new 2 barrel digital design?.
Look on page 70 of Holley's 1998 Performance catalog for more info. Yes,
nothing is listed on the web.

>>Does it have a MAP sensor?.
No

>>Does it have a IAC, or just a throttle kicker?.
None

>>Does it sit use the knobs for adjustments?.
Yes, just like the analog box.

>>You happen to have the patent numbers?
Which patent numbers?


Tyson
tyson@ns.net


>>______________________________ Reply Separator
>>_________________________________
>>Subject: Projection
>>Author:  Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]  at MSXGATE
>>Date:    4/1/98 2:02 PM
>>
>>
>>Welp my catalog was outta date.  A new 2 barrel digitial design?.
>>Does it have a MAP sensor?.
>>Does it have a IAC, or just a throttle kicker?.
>>Does it sit use the knobs for adjustments?.
>>You happen to have the patent numbers?.
>>Bruce
>>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 00:47:56 1998
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Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 22:36:04 -0700
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Ron Tyler wrote:
> 
> Hello All,
> 
>      I installed a '95 LT1 in my 240Z. I have removed EGR, air pump,
> canister purge valve, shift indicator lamp, and MIL. Everything else is
> intact. About 30 seconds after starting the car, the cooling fan
> activates. Is this some sort of quasi limp-home mode due to the missing
> components? The PCM *does* go into closed loop, so I am assuming that it
> isnt a full blown "limp". Would I be correct?
> 
> TIA
> --
> Ron & Stephanie Tyler
> '72 LT1/T56 240Z
> http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg

Do you have a/c installed?  does the ecm know?  ecm will
turn on cooling fans when a/c pressure reaches predetermined
value.
Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 01:29:44 1998
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Hi Ron

Haven't done much with PCMS.. Generally you can replace the
solenoids with 100 ohm resistors. Certain solenoids open circuited
will cause a fault condition. With OBD 11 who knows.

There are various states of limp home in the PCM.. I seem to 
recall the airpump getting your into one of these since
it is electric and controlled by the ecm.. 
anyways try putting 100 ohm ala skip shift resistors whereever
a solenoid is supposed to be.

There are more complicated routines to find malf egr ect but
they won't report directly

:peter

At 08:27 PM 4/1/98 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello All,
>
>     I installed a '95 LT1 in my 240Z. I have removed EGR, air pump,
>canister purge valve, shift indicator lamp, and MIL. Everything else is
>intact. About 30 seconds after starting the car, the cooling fan
>activates. Is this some sort of quasi limp-home mode due to the missing
>components? The PCM *does* go into closed loop, so I am assuming that it
>isnt a full blown "limp". Would I be correct?
>
>TIA
>-- 
>Ron & Stephanie Tyler
>'72 LT1/T56 240Z
>http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 01:31:33 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 01:31:08 -0500
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 1:24 AM
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question


>Ron Tyler wrote:
>>      I installed a '95 LT1 in my 240Z. I have removed EGR, air pump,
>> canister purge valve, shift indicator lamp, and MIL. Everything else is
>> intact. About 30 seconds after starting the car, the cooling fan
>> activates. Is this some sort of quasi limp-home mode due to the missing
>> components? The PCM *does* go into closed loop, so I am assuming that it
>> isnt a full blown "limp". Would I be correct?
>> 
>> TIA
>> --
>> Ron & Stephanie Tyler


Sounds like it is failing part of the self diagnostics, and turns the
fan on.  OBDII I'm not too familiar with.
Do you have a scan tool, or can you have someone scan it for 
codes etc??..
Got to get accurate info for diagnosing, at this stage anything
is quessing.
No worries mate
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 01:38:28 1998
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I have a BRAND NEW Jeg's catalog (recieved it today!) and it has the :Holley
2D Digital system, 510-502-20, and it says (among other things): "2D digital
system is a Microprocessor-based speed-density system."
Hope that answers some questions on whether its anolog or digital.

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 07:32:09 1998
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To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: High Temp Coatings in a Turbo
In-Reply-To: <199804011531.IAA12707@hprs9.mdhc.mdc.com>
References: <c=US%a=_%p=Indigo_Active_Vi%l=CRIANLARICH-980401090315Z-418@crianlarich.indigo-avs.com>
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>Would this stuff work on the turbine housing of a turbo?  Seems like  
>it would if it works on headers, but I've seen pictures with the turbine
>red hot while I've never seen headers glow quite so brightly.  What is
>the temp limit for these coatings?

Please, either don't do this, or be very, very careful if you coat the
inside housing of your turbo.  A friend and I had done just that in an
attempt to keep it from glowing red under high use - and either we made the
coating too thick or the turbo's tolerances are extremely tight - the
turbine seemed okay when we assembled it, however on the car the thing made
loud noises for a very short amount of time, then we found that the edges
of the impellor had chipped and the inside of the housing was scraped (Jet
Hot actually).

Maybe a really thin coat ? Maybe not, we decided not to try again with the
replacement turbo.  This was on a Mitsu Starion.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 07:54:04 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Re:Projection      502-20 2bbl Digital ProJection
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 07:53:12 -0500
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From: TWright669 <TWright669@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 2:29 AM
Subject: Re:Projection 502-20 2bbl Digital ProJection


>I have a BRAND NEW Jeg's catalog (recieved it today!) and it has the
:Holley
>2D Digital system, 510-502-20, and it says (among other things): "2D
digital
>system is a Microprocessor-based speed-density system."


ALSO key words speed-density, means it has a MAP, from what's
said so far, no MAP      Then it's not  S/D.       Everything that fires an
injector in the advertizing world would be considered digitial.  So it may
be digitial in that respect.

>Hope that answers some questions on whether its anolog or digital.

No worries mate
Bruce
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 08:20:58 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Prog 101 Update
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 08:20:31 -0500
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On the 747 project another set of tables has been confirmed,
in reveiw, for those who've missed it.

I've shown where the main spark, main fuel, checksum, and file
name are.

We now have WOT%TPS enable, WOT Enrichment,  WOT spark,
WOT retard, MAP retard, EGR On+Off, Open loop idle, mafunction flags
injector constants and as of yesterday ACCEL enrichment all 3
tables.........

There are a couple critical ones we have yet to find, ie
Knock retard decay (if there is)
TCC conditions  (TPS, VSS ?)
EGR, timing and fuel corrections
Target AFR for closed loop
Closed loop function parameters
Injector size (?)

>From those of you that were going to bench run ecms I need an
update of who has found an ecm, and enough wiring to do a
hook-up.  For these folk I still got a couple packets of free chips..

On the 165/730 good news there, more info has come in and some
of this is gonna be, nice, real nice.

Also some really exciting software is pending.

No worries mate
Bruce        Be sure to include at least two Cone Shaped Hats
                  in your summer wardrobe collection (I need the
                  royalties)  LOL


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 08:36:14 1998
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Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question
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     First of all, the 95 PCM is *NOT* a full OBDII implementation. It may 
     have the ALDL connector (implemented late 95), and the flash memory, 
     but the data sensors/error states are OBDI.
     
     Now to your question...yes, you are in a limp home mode. From what you 
     posted, the removal of the AIR pump and EGR, which both return 
     feedback to the PCM that they are working, can cause the computer to 
     go into this mode. If you need any specific info, please feel free to 
     drop me a line...I've done a *LOT* of work with the LT1's.
     
     TTYL!
     
     Larry Kurek


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: LT1 EFI Question
Author:  <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu> at internet
Date:    4/1/98 8:27 PM


Hello All,
     
     I installed a '95 LT1 in my 240Z. I have removed EGR, air pump,
canister purge valve, shift indicator lamp, and MIL. Everything else is 
intact. About 30 seconds after starting the car, the cooling fan 
activates. Is this some sort of quasi limp-home mode due to the missing 
components? The PCM *does* go into closed loop, so I am assuming that it 
isnt a full blown "limp". Would I be correct?
     
TIA
-- 
Ron & Stephanie Tyler
'72 LT1/T56 240Z
http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg
     



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 08:43:34 1998
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From: MikeTurner@kemet.com (Mike Turner)
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu (Diy_efi)
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Does anyone have part numbers for the GM PROM holders? I believe a recent discussion mentioned Robinson Nugent as a source.

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 09:02:09 1998
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I have 2 4Di manuals.  One is not released yet (i feel so special...). 
If you would like a copy of that an the software, gimme a jingle.  The
4Di uses a heated O2 sensor, by the way.  I drive mine to work and all
over the place all the time, so i know it works!
-- 
Andy Quaas

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 09:29:05 1998
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Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 06:37:33 +0000
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> Sounds like it is failing part of the self diagnostics, and turns the
> fan on.  OBDII I'm not too familiar with.
> Do you have a scan tool, or can you have someone scan it for
> codes etc??..
> Got to get accurate info for diagnosing, at this stage anything
> is quessing.
> No worries mate
> Bruce


  This PCM is not OBDII. I Have a scanner. The codes are... EGR, air
pump, canister purge, shift indicator, MIL lamp, and speedo (havent
decided on a solution yet). There are no other codes. All sensors seem
to be working in there intended range. The A/C doesnt exist.  Does
everybody agree on the 100 Ohm res. that Peter mentioned? 

Thanx everyone for your quick replies (you too P.Rusch :)
-- 
Ron & Stephanie Tyler
'72 LT1/T56 240Z
http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 09:37:18 1998
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Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 06:45:48 +0000
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BTW, There is no temp sensor for the EGR, so I'm assuming that the PCM
is verifying its operation through current measurement. Is this true? If
so, then using a resistor here should also satisfy the PCM

-- 
Ron & Stephanie Tyler
'72 LT1/T56 240Z
http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 09:42:06 1998
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Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 07:30:15 -0700
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: High Temp Coatings in a Turbo
References: <c=US%a=_%p=Indigo_Active_Vi%l=CRIANLARICH-980401090315Z-418@crianlarich.indigo-avs.com> <3.0.5.32.19980401211721.007bd590@xephic.dynip.com>
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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> >Would this stuff work on the turbine housing of a turbo?  Seems like
> >it would if it works on headers, but I've seen pictures with the turbine
> >red hot while I've never seen headers glow quite so brightly.  What is
> >the temp limit for these coatings?
> 
> Please, either don't do this, or be very, very careful if you coat the
> inside housing of your turbo.  A friend and I had done just that in an
> attempt to keep it from glowing red under high use - and either we made the
> coating too thick or the turbo's tolerances are extremely tight 

extremely tight.

- the
> turbine seemed okay when we assembled it, however on the car the thing made
> loud noises for a very short amount of time, then we found that the edges
> of the impellor had chipped and the inside of the housing was scraped (Jet
> Hot actually).
> 
> Maybe a really thin coat ? Maybe not, we decided not to try again with the
> replacement turbo.  This was on a Mitsu Starion.
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Bridgeport, CT 06606
> 
> Homebrew Automotive Website:
> http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
> 
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1989 HMMWV
> 2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 09:52:54 1998
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> On the 747 project another set of tables has been confirmed,
> in reveiw, for those who've missed it.
> 

> 
> There are a couple critical ones we have yet to find, ie
> Knock retard decay (if there is)
> 
Knock retard is handled by the esc box mounted on the right
side of the intake manifold.
it intercepts computed timing signal from 747


TCC conditions  (TPS, VSS ?)
> EGR, timing and fuel corrections
> Target AFR for closed loop
> Closed loop function parameters
> Injector size (?)
> 

> 
> No worries mate
> Bruce        Be sure to include at least two Cone Shaped Hats
>                   in your summer wardrobe collection (I need the
>                   royalties)  LOL
>    /\
>   /C \
>  /  S \
> /____H_\
 (       _\
 (       @  
 (        \
 (        _\
  (    __} 
   (     }

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 09:54:39 1998
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	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Projection      502-20 2bbl Digital ProJection
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 07:50:32 -0800
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Hmmmm....  A Jegs tech rep told me earlier this week that it's throttle position only.  I guess a call to Holley is in order.

Mike J.

	TWright669
	Wednesday, April 01, 1998 10:38 PM
	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
	Re:Projection      502-20 2bbl Digital ProJection

I have a BRAND NEW Jeg's catalog (recieved it today!) and it has the :Holley
2D Digital system, 510-502-20, and it says (among other things): "2D digital
system is a Microprocessor-based speed-density system."
Hope that answers some questions on whether its anolog or digital.


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 10:08:12 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: PROM holders
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 10:07:49 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Turner <MikeTurner@kemet.com>
To: Diy_efi <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 9:56 AM
Subject: PROM holders


>Does anyone have part numbers for the GM PROM holders? I believe a recent
discussion mentioned Robinson Nugent as a source.


Yes, they are, you have to buy 2,500 to get them thou,  assuming
you want the 2732A type holder.
Larry Fisher      GNOne@tia.net       has them in small quantities
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 10:09:22 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Projection
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 08:05:16 -0800
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Andy,

Can the 4Di be used without the O2 sensor?  (I realize tuning becomes more 
critical.)  Due to water-cooled exhaust system my marine application makes 
implementation of an O2 sensor difficult.  (One possibility I thought of is 
to tap into the currently blanked-off EGR port and run a seperate mini 
exhaust, but this raises questions of its own, such as how much flow would 
be required to give accurate feedback, where to discharge this exhaust, 
etc.  So for now no O2 sensor is my goal.)

Holley is advertising a marine 4Di which should go on sale in a couple of 
months.  I've spoke with Holley tech twice.  One rep said that the marine 
4Di must use the O2 sensor and the other one said that it wasn't necessary. 
 Sadly typical for Holley.

Thanks,

Mike Jones

>>Squash  wrote:

I have 2 4Di manuals.  One is not released yet (i feel so special...).
If you would like a copy of that an the software, gimme a jingle.  The
4Di uses a heated O2 sensor, by the way.  I drive mine to work and all
over the place all the time, so i know it works!

Andy Quaas>>


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 10:10:53 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Projection
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 10:10:31 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From: Squash <mpc@genevaonline.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: Projection


>I have 2 4Di manuals.  One is not released yet (i feel so special...). 
>If you would like a copy of that an the software, gimme a jingle.  The
>4Di uses a heated O2 sensor, by the way.  I drive mine to work and all
>over the place all the time, so i know it works!
>-- 
>Andy Quaas


I'd like to know the table sizes, ie 16x16?  
And what they have tables for.
If that's on the software then a copy of that would be nice, and a 
copy of maybe the tables as you have them set?.
Cheers  Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 10:14:03 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <jewett@sunset.net>
To: <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: C3 & Diacom
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 07:20:08 -0800
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Hello all I am new to the list!!

I have a couple questions to get my feet wet. Is anyone out there really
familliar with the GM's C-3??? I would like to know what makes this puppy
tick. i.e. controller type..? 

	My wifes car is an 81 camaro with a C-3, and it has a 5 pin ALDL, Diacom
only offers a 12 pin ALDL GM connector! Has anyone succesfully adapted the
12 pin module to an older 5 pin ALDL..? If so what pins did you use on the
5 pin ALDL, and what pins in the 12 pin module did you use..? I'm afraid I
might fry the diacom cable!!! What would really be slick is if I could
create a new cable that pluged right into a 5 pin ALDL!!!

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Derek Jewett

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 10:19:17 1998
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To: "Do-it-Yourself Fuel Injection" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: New User!
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Just wanted to say hello to everyone on the list!! Being the "family
mechanic" I am excited to have found a good resource on fuel injection. I
am from Redding, CA and work as a computer consultant for our local
government. I dabble in the OBD-II systems and Holley's pro-jection units,
as well as some feedback systems (carbureted).

I hope I can be of benefit to the list..!!

Derek

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 10:26:43 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Ford Triton (long)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 08:21:49 -0800
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Eric,

I'm on an Expedition list and one member (thomas_E_Vlach@ccm.fm.intel.com) 
added a Borla Cat-Back system  JET chip, and K&N filter.  Following is some 
of his post, including dyno results.

Mike Jones

>>T. Vlatch excerpt:   The result show no SIGNIFICANT improvement over 
previously reported
STOCK readings in either max HP or max TORQUE. However, there are
REASONABLE improvements in both HP and TORQUE in the mid-RPM range.

All runs performed in 2nd gear (we confirmed the 2nd gear start on
this vehicle).


RESULTS: There is no statistically significant difference introduced by
adding or removing the K&N Air Filter. Deltas between any run where the
K&N was in place vs. any run where it was not are nominal at best. This
even after I drilled those HOLES! I'll bet the only way to get any
HP bang from the K&N is to replace the entire intake system - but then
you wouldn't need the K&N to help you get the added HP, so it's only
value (at least on the X) is that it is the LAST cleaner cartridge
you'll ever need to buy. My opinion.

Of the 9 runs done (5 w/ BORLA, JET, & K&N, 1 w/ BORLA & JET, 1 w/
BORLA & K&N, and 2 w/ just the BORLA) here are the max values from
the best runs taken in each category:

BORLA           Max TORQUE occurred @ 3250 RPM = 264.10
                Max HP     occurred @ 3750 RPM = 179.30

BORLA/JET       Max TORQUE occurred @ 3000 RPM = 290.80
                Max HP     occurred @ 3750 RPM = 182.10

BORLA/JET/K&N   Max TORQUE occurred @ 3000 RPM = 288.60
                Max HP     occurred @ 3750 RPM = 181.70

OK, a couple or three observations.

01. As I said before the K&N results are so close to any non-K&N
results that the K&N can be ignored.

02. The JET Chip however added a reasonable increase in both the HP
and TORQUE band in the mid-RPM range, 2250-3750. 30 addition ft lbs
of TORQUE and over 17 additional HP.

03. So the chip not only increased the TORQUE and HP but also
broadened the band, so now I'm getting more TORQUE and HP sooner,
and more longer. All in all not a bad deal, in my opinion.

04. Not having any actual STOCK readings for my vehicle, and not
having any detailed STOCK RPM range stats from other X owners I
cannot say, for certain, that the increases cited here are more or
less than if compared to STOCK. Keep in mind that my BASELINE is
STOCK + BORLA.

In closing I'll say that I am not as thrilled as I'd hoped I was
going to be with the results I got, but at least I did get some. The
JET Chip is noticeable when installed. I noticed it right off when
I had to climb the hill to Tahoe. Downshifting from overdrive to
3rd takes place much sooner, and it's a lot more smooth. And I can feel
the added HP when passing, and when just crusing around town.

Also, though I cannot say that the BORLA bought me HP or TORQUE or MPG,
I can say that it sounds really cool!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

DETAILED STATS BY RPM

I would ignore the stats in the 2000 and 2250 RPM range. These stats
came from significant spikes in the results that occurred as the DYNO
recorded the vehicle's initial JUMP off the line. Perhaps they are
significant and real. I'd like to think so. But they appear to be
dubious to me.

RUN =>  1 BORLA         2 BORLA, JET    3 BORLA, JET, K&N

MAX:    287.50  179.30  305.80  182.10  304.70  181.70
AVG:    239.37  153.18  249.40  158.88  249.15  158.92
MIN:    160.40  109.10  162.50  116.40  164.90  116.00

RPM     TORQUE  HP      TORQUE  HP      TORQUE  HP
2,000   286.60  109.10  305.80  116.40  304.70  116.00
2,250   287.50  123.20  288.30  123.50  286.90  122.90
2,500   262.80  125.00  277.30  132.00  276.40  131.60
2,750   250.60  131.20  279.40  146.30  279.50  146.40
3,000   260.70  148.90  290.80  166.10  288.60  164.80
3,250   264.10  163.40  275.20  170.20  273.90  169.50
3,500   261.30  174.10  265.50  176.90  266.20  177.40
3,750   251.10  179.30  255.10  182.10  254.50  181.70
4,000   232.70  177.20  236.90  180.40  235.40  179.30
4,250   216.40  175.10  221.80  179.50  220.70  178.60
4,500   197.30  169.00  201.60  172.70  202.70  173.70
4,750   180.30  163.10  182.00  164.60  184.60  167.00
5,000   160.40  152.70  162.50  154.70  164.90  157.00 >>


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end


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 10:38:42 1998
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From: "Andrew F. Gunnesch" <afgun@mongoose.dearborn.sgi.com>
Message-Id: <9804021038.ZM2361@mongoose.dearborn.sgi.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 10:38:22 -0500
In-Reply-To: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
        "Re: Prog 101 Update" (Apr  2,  7:40am)
References: <01bd5e3a$1caa9f60$4e198fd1@nacelp>  <3523A37A.D94C6DF0@mcn.net>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Prog 101 Update
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> > There are a couple critical ones we have yet to find, ie
> > Knock retard decay (if there is)
> >
> Knock retard is handled by the esc box mounted on the right
> side of the intake manifold.
> it intercepts computed timing signal from 747

Is that how my '165 TPI motor works then?  Is there any way to program
the esc box ?

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 10:38:38 1998
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From: d houlton x0710  <tc75918@hpnfssvr.mdhc.mdc.com>
Message-Id: <199804021537.IAA20332@hprs9.mdhc.mdc.com>
Subject: Re: High Temp Coatings in a Turbo
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 08:37:31 -0700 (MST)
In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.19980401211721.007bd590@xephic.dynip.com> from "Frederic Breitwieser" at Apr 1, 98 09:17:21 pm
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Helicopter
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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> >Would this stuff work on the turbine housing of a turbo?  Seems like  
> >it would if it works on headers, but I've seen pictures with the turbine
> >red hot while I've never seen headers glow quite so brightly.  What is
> >the temp limit for these coatings?
> 
> Please, either don't do this, or be very, very careful if you coat the
> inside housing of your turbo.  A friend and I had done just that in an

Good advice.  I was talking about the outside of the turbo though.  I was
just wondering if the coating could take the heat.  Do turbine housings 
really get hotter than a strait header would?  Seems like they would if
you were always running boost, but for the average street goer that wouldn't
be a problem.

--Dan

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 11:04:47 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Prog 101 Update
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 11:04:21 -0500
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Subject: Re: Prog 101 Update


>Bruce Plecan wrote:
>> 
>> On the 747 project another set of tables has been confirmed,
>> in reveiw, for those who've missed it.
>> 
>> There are a couple critical ones we have yet to find, ie
>> Knock retard decay (if there is)
>> 
>Knock retard is handled by the esc box mounted on the right
>side of the intake manifold.
>it intercepts computed timing signal from 747
>
The est mod. does the signal processing.  The ecm has limits for how
much and when the retard is applied.  On some ecms there is a
decay rate to allow the retard to go back to zero.  The one in my 
car, you have to turn the ignition off for it to cancel


>TCC conditions  (TPS, VSS ?)
>> EGR, timing and fuel corrections
>> Target AFR for closed loop
>> Closed loop function parameters
>> Injector size (?)
>> 
>
>> 
>> No worries mate
>> Bruce        Be sure to include at least two Cone Shaped Hats
>>                   in your summer wardrobe collection (I need the
>>                   royalties)  LOL
>>    /\
>>   /C \
>>  /  S \
>> /____H_\
> (       _\
> (       @  
> (        \
> (        _\
>  (    __} 
>   (     }

Extra points for art work
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 11:07:47 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: peter paul fenske <ffnsp955@bcit.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question
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Hi Ron

Most current measurements can be defeated by resistor
subs.. Note actuators are rated at 20 ohms. I use 100
ohms to keep the heat down. Don't use 1/8 watts resistors.

I now remember the air pump. You will have to keep the relay
I think. The pcm checks that the relay applies voltage
to the air pump.. similiar to fuel pump voltage check..

EGR is tougher. the resistor will defeat the current check
but not the operation check. Ie the pcm applies egr then checks
for drop in map. 

I beg to differ with obd11 implementation. I have looked at a
92 pcm and obd11 is there. It is simply not used ie obd11 errors
are noted and not reported. You would need a "HUD" to see it.

I guess if all else fails someone can reprogram the pcm. I am
not currently able to do this. Generally people will do
this for a bit of cash. but don't ask yer dealer to do this.
later:peter

At 06:37 AM 4/2/98 +0000, you wrote:
>> Sounds like it is failing part of the self diagnostics, and turns the
>> fan on.  OBDII I'm not too familiar with.
>> Do you have a scan tool, or can you have someone scan it for
>> codes etc??..
>> Got to get accurate info for diagnosing, at this stage anything
>> is quessing.
>> No worries mate
>> Bruce
>
>
>  This PCM is not OBDII. I Have a scanner. The codes are... EGR, air
>pump, canister purge, shift indicator, MIL lamp, and speedo (havent
>decided on a solution yet). There are no other codes. All sensors seem
>to be working in there intended range. The A/C doesnt exist.  Does
>everybody agree on the 100 Ohm res. that Peter mentioned? 
>
>Thanx everyone for your quick replies (you too P.Rusch :)
>-- 
>Ron & Stephanie Tyler
>'72 LT1/T56 240Z
>http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 11:10:15 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Snake oil too??  High Temp Coatings
In-Reply-To: <199804011811.LAA13896@hprs9.mdhc.mdc.com>
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>How hard would it be to rig a nozzle on the end of flexible hose and
>attach it to the sprayer?  Drop the hose down the tube, hit the switch 
>and slowly draw it back out.

The nozzle on my particular Wagner unscrews for easy cleaning (yeah, if the
paint hasn't dried!!!), but it is a removable piece, and there is a needle
valve under the nozzle, and one o-ring.  I'd say it would be pretty easy to
thread an extension, but the needle valve that creates the spray pattern
would be at the threaded end, not at the end you are sticking into your
header.

The stuff can be applied with thigns other than spray guns... you could
probably get a medium sized paint brush down there.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 11:12:38 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question/OBD II
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 11:11:50 -0500
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     First of all, the 95 PCM is *NOT* a full OBDII implementation. It may
have the ALDL connector (implemented late 95), and the flash memory, but the
data sensors/error states are OBDI.


Is there any clues (easy to find) if something is full OBDII, or not..

big snip
>
>     Larry Kurek
>
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 11:24:12 1998
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The fuel "table" is 16x16 points (256 alltogether).  Based on the MAP
and RPM, you specify the amount of fuel to give.  There is also accel
compensation, O2 trigger voltages, temp enrichment, spark advance, and
some other tweaks.  You can also change the range of rpms on the fuel
"table".  You can download a copy of the logging and monitoring program
called HONDO at http://www.genevaonline.com/~efi/files/hondo.zip (350K) 
The Actual program that you use to create and modify fuel maps is at
http://www.genevaonline.com/~efi/files/eev21.zip (100K).  I have
included a few different maps with the eev21 program.  a few come with
the system.  The 502 map is from holley (i don't even understand how it
runs, i doesn't in mine!), the 20b one is the one i use on my 454.  Let
me know if you have any questions using any of this.  I really wish more
people would use this ECU, as it has GREAT potential.
-- 
Andy Quaas

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 11:28:39 1998
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Indeed the 4Di will function quite nicely without the O2 sensor.  I
tried it on mine!  And, i have the manual for the marine projection
handy right here for reading at work!  Without the O2 sensor, cruising
efficiency is lost, but if your fuel map is dialed in correctly, you
shouldn't need the O2 sensor.  I have actually unplugged mine to see
what it would do.  I drove it to work for a week.  That is how i tuned
my fuel map.  The holley guys are OK.  There are only 2 or so that know
much about the digital systems.  let me know if you have any questions!
-- 
Andy Quaas

Mike Jones wrote:
> 
> Andy,
> 
> Can the 4Di be used without the O2 sensor?  (I realize tuning becomes more
> critical.)  Due to water-cooled exhaust system my marine application makes
> implementation of an O2 sensor difficult.  (One possibility I thought of is
> to tap into the currently blanked-off EGR port and run a seperate mini
> exhaust, but this raises questions of its own, such as how much flow would
> be required to give accurate feedback, where to discharge this exhaust,
> etc.  So for now no O2 sensor is my goal.)
> 
> Holley is advertising a marine 4Di which should go on sale in a couple of
> months.  I've spoke with Holley tech twice.  One rep said that the marine
> 4Di must use the O2 sensor and the other one said that it wasn't necessary.
>  Sadly typical for Holley.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike Jones

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 11:34:29 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Projection
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 11:34:05 -0500
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Projection
>Andy,
>Can the 4Di be used without the O2 sensor?  (I realize tuning becomes more
>critical.)  Due to water-cooled exhaust system my marine application makes
>implementation of an O2 sensor difficult.  (One possibility I thought of is
to tap into the currently blanked-off EGR port and run a seperate mini
exhaust, but this raises questions of its own, such as how much flow would
be required to give accurate feedback, where to discharge this exhaust, etc.
So for now no O2 sensor is my goal.)
>Holley is advertising a marine 4Di which should go on sale in a couple of
>months.  I've spoke with Holley tech twice.  One rep said that the marine
>4Di must use the O2 sensor and the other one said that it wasn't necessary.
> Sadly typical for Holley.
>Thanks,
>Mike Jones

Why not run a heated O2 sensor?.  Just takes 12V, or are there
other considerations?.

Bruce


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Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 11:38:05 -0500
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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d houlton x0710 wrote:
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> >
> > >Would this stuff work on the turbine housing of a turbo?  Seems like
> > >it would if it works on headers, but I've seen pictures with the turbine
> > >red hot while I've never seen headers glow quite so brightly.  What is
> > >the temp limit for these coatings?
> >
> > Please, either don't do this, or be very, very careful if you coat the
> > inside housing of your turbo.  A friend and I had done just that in an
> 
> Good advice.  I was talking about the outside of the turbo though.  I was
> just wondering if the coating could take the heat.  Do turbine housings
> really get hotter than a strait header would?  Seems like they would if
> you were always running boost, but for the average street goer that wouldn't
> be a problem.
> 
> --Dan
Outside coating only would "likely" result in severe overheating, and
possible melt-down. A bit like wrapped headers?
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 11:36:23 1998
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Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 11:23:45 -0800
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: High Temp Coatings in a Turbo
In-Reply-To: <3523A0F7.A175807@mcn.net>
References: <c=US%a=_%p=Indigo_Active_Vi%l=CRIANLARICH-980401090315Z-418@crianlarich.indigo-avs.com>
 <3.0.5.32.19980401211721.007bd590@xephic.dynip.com>
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>extremely tight.

Okay, there you have it :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 11:36:45 1998
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From: "Fitzgearld, Fredric" <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu "
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        "Michael J. Kupec "
	 <mkupec@erols.com>
Subject: RE: Projection
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 08:21:00 -0800 
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Ya, I get around.  :)  This list is nearly over my head, but I like it!  
Some of the people on this list are so hot they have to wear the hats 
with the electric fan built in them.

One of the things I'm going to look into is the differences between the 
ECU connections.  I suspect that all the  stuff external to the ECU is 
the same, but I won't know till it gets here.  Also, rather then 
spending too much money for the Holley O2 setup, I'm hoping to make it 
myself for half the price.  I'm sure those with the 4D and 4Di can tell 
us if it's heated or not.

With the help of the list, I would love to make this a "2Di" system.  I 
know there is no way for it to be as flexible but there must be 
something that we can change to make it work for the better, or at least 
improve it's "Geek Appeal".  It could be as easy as adding/changing a 
few chips.  Then again, it may never happen at all.  

That's right, the temp sensor controls the choke, which is one of 
"things" (is map the right word?) I might want to change.

I will be happy to scan the manual.  I can't believe there is a whole 
lot of differences between the 3 units (2D, 4D, 4Di).  There must be a 
"Magic Box" we can make to program and view what's going on in the ECU.

In any case, it's still better then a carb.  :)

FEF
___________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Projection
Author:  Michael J. Kupec [SMTP:mkupec@erols.com]  at MSXGATE
Date:    4/1/98 6:56 PM


Fredric,

I thought your name looked familiar. Nice to see fellow EB members here on
this list. I wasn't aware you were running a Projection on your EB. Anyway,
if you find out that the older analog stuff won't work on the new system,
let me know, I'd be interested in the parts.

You're right about the O2 setup for the 2D. The older system uses an add on
box that modifies the TPS signal to make the system either lean or richen
the injector flow. Neither the 2D or the analog has/had a MAP sensor. Both
just take the TPS and distributor pulses and use that to change the fuel
flow throught the injectors, crude, but it works. The 2D is simpler, just an
O2 and the wiring harness is all you need. Not sure if Holley use a heated
one or not though.  All the temp sensor is used for is for cold starting of
the engine. After the engine is at operating temp, the temp sensor is out of
the loop.

BTW what's the chance of you scanning in the manual and sending it to me?
Mostly I want to see what differences they did at the ECU plug. I'm thinking
I might be able to use a 2D whenever my analog system dies.

Anyone got the manual for the 4D/4Di? It'd be interesting see what I can do
with a 4's computer and the 2BBl TBI.

Michael J. Kupec
mkupec@erols.com

I live with constant fear and danger every day...
    and sometimes she lets me go four-wheeling!

Get in, Sit down, Shut up, and Hold on!

Management & Data Systems, Lockheed Martin Corporation
Woodbridge, Virginia, USA (703) 680-6903
1970 Bronco w/351W (in a constant state of dissassembly/refinement...)
1964 1/2 260 Convertible  w/PS, PB, & Power Top
1965 289 HP "K" Coupe w/PS, PB, & Pony Int. (Early '65, not a GT)

-----Original Message-----
From: Fitzgearld, Fredric <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>;
Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
Date: Wednesday, April 01, 1998 8:30 PM
Subject: RE: Projection


>I'm pretty sure it's just like the old analog system with a temp sensor,
>trigger, TPS, and the possible addition of a O2 sensor.  It has the
>tuning pots like the old system.  I know this is a lot to ask for, but I
>would love to be able to program this unit via the PC, or something,
>then tune for altitude as needed.  I wouldn't even need to do that if I
>put a O2 sensor on it.
>
>The main reason I got the 2D system, instead of the 4Di system, is due
>to the lack of funds in the budget.  I know it's crude at best but the
>way I see it, any kind of FI is going to be better then the carb when
>changing altitudes a lot.  Changing jets and rods all the time stink.
>Not to mention the fact that FI will run upside down, an important part
>of rock crawling.
>
>FEF
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
>_________________________________
>Subject: Projection
>Author:  Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]  at MSXGATE
>Date:    4/1/98 2:02 PM
>
>
>Welp my catalog was outta date.  A new 2 barrel digitial design?.
>Does it have a MAP sensor?.
>Does it have a IAC, or just a throttle kicker?.
>Does it sit use the knobs for adjustments?.
>You happen to have the patent numbers?.
>Bruce
>

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 11:55:19 1998
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To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu "
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        Bruce Plecan  <nacelp@bright.net>
Subject: RE: More Projection stuff
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Forgive me for the simple question but what exactly is "speed density".  
How does the ECU monitor it?  Is it a related to pressure?  Is it what 
you would use to monitor manifold vacuum, instead of a MAP sensor?

Thanks,

FEF

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Re: More Projection stuff
Author:  Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]  at MSXGATE
Date:    4/1/98 4:04 PM


From: Fitzgearld, Fredric <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>;
Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
Date: Wednesday, April 01, 1998 6:48 PM
Subject: RE: More Projection stuff


>HuMmmmmm...  I was told that the #502-20 (Universal 2D Digital System
>$625.) replaced the, now discontinued, 502-2 (analog system ~$500.).
>It's so new (I guess) that I didn't even see it on Holley's WEB page
>when I went to look.  The 4D and 4Di are about 2x the price.  I would
>love to have the 4Di but the low end will do just as well, for my
>application (rock crawling).  If they send me an analog system, it's
>going back.  I don't want any part of that, again.
>
>I shouldn't have any trouble tuning it as I had the analog system for a
>while.  The brain died and they said it would cost $400. to replace it.

If ya ain't gonna fix it, I'd like to talk a look inside.  Does it come with
a MAP sensor, according to the Jegs catalog, says it's speed density
Now I curious if it is better than the Alpha-N.

Also curious about the chips nos..

>FEF
>
Bruce  This message originated at CSH World Headquarters

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 12:09:51 1998
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Subject: Re: High Temp Coatings in a Turbo
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Clare Snyder wrote:
> 
> Outside coating only would "likely" result in severe overheating, and
> possible melt-down. A bit like wrapped headers?

	What about those who use that thermotec brand "turbo wrap"? Never tried
to coat or wrap a turbo housing...just curious about any overheating
problems.

-Ed

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 12:12:56 1998
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Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 12:07:47 -0800
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: High Temp Coatings in a Turbo
In-Reply-To: <199804021537.IAA20332@hprs9.mdhc.mdc.com>
References: <3.0.5.32.19980401211721.007bd590@xephic.dynip.com>
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>Good advice.  I was talking about the outside of the turbo though.  I was
>just wondering if the coating could take the heat.  Do turbine housings 
>really get hotter than a strait header would?  Seems like they would if

Yes they do get hotter because they restrict the airflow more than a header
would.  Before I wrote this, I called my bud to ask if his coating is still
on  his turbo (we coated the outside only) and he said it flaked off after
a few  months or hard use.  Knowing his driving style for years, he tends
to be more rough on things than even I.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 12:12:59 1998
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To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: New User!
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>I hope I can be of benefit to the list..!!

Welcome to the list Derek, and don't forget to send your annual membership
dues to my home address.

I'm kidding by the way <smile>.

You'll find a good group of folks... we have several projects going, and
whether you percieve your ability to add value, trust me, we all help each
other and it really works out good.  This is actually one of my favorite
lists, aside from the information and ideas we pass along, the members are
friendly and happy to help, and not as judgemental as some of the other lists.

Anyhoo, welcome aboard (and I was kidding about the dues :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 12:37:16 1998
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	I was told by my distributor that mim order was 250, with ~ 3-6
 week lead time. 250 sounds bad, but heck they only cost 20-30 cents so 
 a whole order would be 50-75 bucks. If there is enough interest I could 
 put an order in, and do the cost+ thing.

Mike D. 

> From diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu Thu Apr  2 10:24 CST 1998
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Turner <MikeTurner@kemet.com>
> To: Diy_efi <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 9:56 AM
> Subject: PROM holders
> 
> 
> >Does anyone have part numbers for the GM PROM holders? I believe a recent
> discussion mentioned Robinson Nugent as a source.
> 
> 
> Yes, they are, you have to buy 2,500 to get them thou,  assuming
> you want the 2732A type holder.
> Larry Fisher      GNOne@tia.net       has them in small quantities
> Cheers
> Bruce
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 13:06:52 1998
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From: "Bernie Jacobsen" <bcjac@ix.netcom.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: High Temp Coatings in a Turbo
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The heat's got to go somewhere.  Inside coating would keep it away from the
metal housing (although you would need to MAKE SURE you have enough
clearence after thermal expansion, remember the turbine expands the same,
the cooler housing expands less).  Coating or wrapping the outside allows
the heat to enter the housing but it can't escape. The housing temperature
will get significantly hotter than normal.

Also, with the housing hotter, theoretically it will expand more, causing
increased clearence between the turbine and the housing. Performance loss?
probably negligable.  But I would be concerned with other parts getting hot
i.e. bearings...

^Bernie




>Clare Snyder wrote:
>>
>> Outside coating only would "likely" result in severe overheating, and
>> possible melt-down. A bit like wrapped headers?
>
> What about those who use that thermotec brand "turbo wrap"? Never tried
>to coat or wrap a turbo housing...just curious about any overheating
>problems.
>
>-Ed
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 13:07:17 1998
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From: Kevin Vannorsdel <kv@us.ibm.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: PROM holders
Message-ID: <5030050008396647000002L572*@MHS>
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 13:07:20 -0500
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Awhile back someone suggested that I install a ZIF socket in my C3 inplace of
the goofy GM socket that requires those holders.  I did and boy am I glad...
Those holders are nothing but a pain IMHO.

It might be worth your while, if ya haven't allready, to think about spending
the 11 bucks and time  for a ZIF socket and be done with the holders once and
for all...

Also-  You CAN plug into the GM socket without the holder... just stick your
EPROM in a normal machined pin IC socket and then gently snap the assembly into
the GM holder.   Must have done 30 or 40 insertions this way with no
significant problems.

Just my .02



________________________________________________
  Kevin Vannorsdel     IBM Arm Electronics Development
    408-256-6492                Tie 276-6492     kv@us.ibm.com




owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu on 04/02/98 10:03:02 AM
Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc:
Subject: Re: PROM holders



 I was told by my distributor that mim order was 250, with ~ 3-6
 week lead time. 250 sounds bad, but heck they only cost 20-30 cents so
 a whole order would be 50-75 bucks. If there is enough interest I could
 put an order in, and do the cost+ thing.

Mike D.

> From diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu Thu Apr  2 10:24 CST 1998
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Turner <MikeTurner@kemet.com>
> To: Diy_efi <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 9:56 AM
> Subject: PROM holders
>
>
> >Does anyone have part numbers for the GM PROM holders? I believe a recent
> discussion mentioned Robinson Nugent as a source.
>
>
> Yes, they are, you have to buy 2,500 to get them thou,  assuming
> you want the 2732A type holder.
> Larry Fisher      GNOne@tia.net       has them in small quantities
> Cheers
> Bruce
>
>
>




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 13:16:32 1998
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Subject: Re: High Temp Coatings in a Turbo
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 13:17:27 -0500 (EST)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <3523BEED.606A@huron.net> from "Clare Snyder" at Apr 2, 98 11:38:05 am
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> 
> > > >Would this stuff work on the turbine housing of a turbo?  Seems like
> > > >it would if it works on headers, but I've seen pictures with the turbine
> > > >red hot while I've never seen headers glow quite so brightly.  What is
> > > >the temp limit for these coatings?
> > >
> > > Please, either don't do this, or be very, very careful if you coat the
> > > inside housing of your turbo.  A friend and I had done just that in an
> > 
> > Good advice.  I was talking about the outside of the turbo though.  I was
> > just wondering if the coating could take the heat.  Do turbine housings
> > really get hotter than a strait header would?  Seems like they would if
> > you were always running boost, but for the average street goer that wouldn't
> > be a problem.
> > 
> Outside coating only would "likely" result in severe overheating, and
> possible melt-down. A bit like wrapped headers?


I would think may benefit would be from coating the exhauset side of the
turbine unit and the inside of the exhaust scroll

this would really help keep heat out od the turbo housing and bearing, and
put it into the gasses where it belongs
should also reduce tendency to turbo lag

Clive 

> -- 
>                                _/\_
>                        --|-----([])-----|--
>                          S    0/  \0    B
>          Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
>                   E-Mail service is back to normal
>                   To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
>                     Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
>                                 OR
> Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
> spammers!!!
> It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
> Turkeys!!!


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 13:19:54 1998
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Subject: Re: Snake oil too??  High Temp Coatings
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 13:21:21 -0500 (EST)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.19980402102718.007b9320@xephic.dynip.com> from "Frederic Breitwieser" at Apr 2, 98 10:27:18 am
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> 
> >How hard would it be to rig a nozzle on the end of flexible hose and
> >attach it to the sprayer?  Drop the hose down the tube, hit the switch 
> >and slowly draw it back out.
> 
> The nozzle on my particular Wagner unscrews for easy cleaning (yeah, if the
> paint hasn't dried!!!), but it is a removable piece, and there is a needle
> valve under the nozzle, and one o-ring.  I'd say it would be pretty easy to
> thread an extension, but the needle valve that creates the spray pattern
> would be at the threaded end, not at the end you are sticking into your
> header.
> 
> The stuff can be applied with thigns other than spray guns... you could
> probably get a medium sized paint brush down there.

or you could dust tape the ends of the tubes
dump the stuff in
and shake the subes around so that iy gets to flow everywhere
then drain the excess out 
and bake

Clive 


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 13:32:18 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Projection
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 11:28:02 -0800
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>>Bruce Plecan wrote (re: marine 4Di)
Why not run a heated O2 sensor?.  Just takes 12V, or are there
other considerations?

Bruce>>

The exhaust manifolds and risers are water cooled, i.e. double walled with 
cooling passages.  I could replace one riser with a non-cooled piece, take 
the water from the manifold and bypass it downstream, but I think I can get 
the results I'm after by careful tuning.  I would argue that a marine 
engine is easier to tune than an auto since load doesn't vary much (you 
don't go up hills too often while on the water.)    Feel free to poke holes 
 (but not in the boat, please)

Mike J.

begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 15:24:09 1998
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Subject: Re[2]: High Temp Coatings in a Turbo
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     Seems to me you guys are only looking at one side of this coin. There 
     are also coatings available that are called "Heat Rejection Coatings", 
     which actually enhance thermal transfer between the substrate and the 
     cooling medium. I would think a coating of this on the outside of the 
     turbo housing, along with a "light" coat of barrier coating on the 
     inside (.0005-.001") would be the ticket for preventing heat transfer 
     into the housing, and then rejecting the heat that does get in easier. 
     BTW, I would think if you could apply it evenly, a light coat of TBC 
     on the turbine would get rid of any problems caused by changing the 
     expansion characteristics of one part and not the other (may also help 
     to keep heat out of the bearings).
     
     TTYL!
     
     Larry Kurek


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: High Temp Coatings in a Turbo
Author:  <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu> at internet
Date:    4/2/98 1:17 PM


> 
> > > >Would this stuff work on the turbine housing of a turbo?  Seems like
> > > >it would if it works on headers, but I've seen pictures with the turbine 
> > > >red hot while I've never seen headers glow quite so brightly.  What is
> > > >the temp limit for these coatings? 
> > >
> > > Please, either don't do this, or be very, very careful if you coat the 
> > > inside housing of your turbo.  A friend and I had done just that in an 
> > 
> > Good advice.  I was talking about the outside of the turbo though.  I was 
> > just wondering if the coating could take the heat.  Do turbine housings
> > really get hotter than a strait header would?  Seems like they would if
> > you were always running boost, but for the average street goer that wouldn't
> > be a problem.
> > 
> Outside coating only would "likely" result in severe overheating, and 
> possible melt-down. A bit like wrapped headers?
     
     
I would think may benefit would be from coating the exhauset side of the 
turbine unit and the inside of the exhaust scroll
     
this would really help keep heat out od the turbo housing and bearing, and 
put it into the gasses where it belongs
should also reduce tendency to turbo lag
     
Clive 
     
> -- 
>                                _/\_
>                        --|-----([])-----|-- 
>                          S    0/  \0    B
>          Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back 
>                   E-Mail service is back to normal
>                   To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages 
>                     Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
>                                 OR
> Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the 
> spammers!!!
> It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of 
> Turkeys!!!
     
     



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 15:38:41 1998
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Now, I'm doing this from memory, BUT I think the map sensor is built into the
throttle body?  I know all the other sensors are (except coolant temp.)
Tom

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Subject: Re: PROM holders
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Why not contact a small mail order supplier like Digi Key?
Joe




nacelp@bright.net on 04/02/98 10:07:49 AM

Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc:    (bcc: Joe Dzura/SED/CSC)
Subject:  Re: PROM holders





-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Turner <MikeTurner@kemet.com>
To: Diy_efi <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 9:56 AM
Subject: PROM holders


>Does anyone have part numbers for the GM PROM holders? I believe a recent
discussion mentioned Robinson Nugent as a source.


Yes, they are, you have to buy 2,500 to get them thou,  assuming
you want the 2732A type holder.
Larry Fisher      GNOne@tia.net       has them in small quantities
Cheers
Bruce









From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 15:39:52 1998
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From: mfahrion@bb-elec.com (Mike Fahrion)
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question/OBD II
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 14:38:41 -0600
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>     First of all, the 95 PCM is *NOT* a full OBDII implementation. It may
>have the ALDL connector (implemented late 95), and the flash memory, but
the
>data sensors/error states are OBDI.
>
>
>Is there any clues (easy to find) if something is full OBDII, or not..
>
>big snip


Yes - here's a pretty easy way, that (I think) always works...

In the coming days and weeks you should be able to find more comprehensive
info at www.obdii.com.

All OBDII vehicles must have the connector defined by SAE J1962.  The
connector can always be found within 3 feet of the driver, usually low on
the dash or behind the ashtray.  If your vehicle is pre-1996, it could have
the J1962 connector and not be OBDII.  Follow the rules below to know for
sure.

First, you have to have the J1962 connector.  This is a 16 pin, D shaped
connector, not the rectangular ALDL connector.

If the connector has pin 2, 7 or 10 then it is OBDII.
If the connector has a pin 2, but no pin 7 or pin 10 it uses the J1850 VPW
standard
If the connector  has pin 10, but no pin 2 or pin 7 it uses the J1850 PWM
standard
If the connector has a pin 7, but no pin 2 or pin 10 it uses the ISO 9141-2
standard

I don't think any pre 1996 LT1's were OBDII.  The 95 Fbodies and Impalla
SS's were not OBDII, although I think some of the Fbodies had the J1962
connector.

If anyone knows differently - please let me know.

-mike
mfahrion@bb-elec.com



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 15:48:48 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cyberdrive.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: rebuilding turbo
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 15:45:22 -0500
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Glass bead all the parts but not the bearing journals.  Install new seals
and bearings. Reassemble.  Check all clearances, especially compressor and
turbine to their housings.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

>I know this is off subject, but anyone who has rebuilt a turbo could you
>please e-mail me privately.  I need info on how to do it, and any tips
>they could give.  Thanks.
>
>Sun Dang
>http://weber.u.washington.edu/~sunn


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 15:52:49 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Spare Stuff for 101
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 15:51:52 -0500
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Does any one have any prom burning equipment to donate to the
programming project?
Major helper in this wants to do more, but needs a burner software, and
eraser. Gotta be able to do 2732A and the 128/256 style.

Also still have a couple of the free prom packs for folks doing bench
testing with the ecms, just mail me.

Again Thanks
Bruce    If ya wanna clue about how this is going last Sat CSH HQ
              did 10Mb on net traffic..


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 18:03:11 1998
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My 4Di projection uses a standard GM MAP sensor.
-- 
Andy Quaas

TWright669 wrote:
> 
> Now, I'm doing this from memory, BUT I think the map sensor is built into the
> throttle body?  I know all the other sensors are (except coolant temp.)
> Tom

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 18:49:18 1998
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Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 17:37:19 -0600
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Jennifer and Brock Fraser <fraser@forbin.com>
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question
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>From: Ron Tyler <dcmckenna@worldnet.att.net>
>Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 20:27:11 +0000
>Subject: LT1 EFI Question
>
>Hello All,
>
>     I installed a '95 LT1 in my 240Z. I have removed EGR, air pump,
>canister purge valve, shift indicator lamp, and MIL. Everything else is
>intact. About 30 seconds after starting the car, the cooling fan
>activates. Is this some sort of quasi limp-home mode due to the missing
>components? The PCM *does* go into closed loop, so I am assuming that it
>isnt a full blown "limp". Would I be correct?
>
>TIA
>- -- 
>Ron & Stephanie Tyler
>'72 LT1/T56 240Z
>http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg


Ron,

I've got a twin-turbocharged LT1 in my Jaguar that runs on a '96 PCM.  I
don't have any of the emissions-related equipment you mentioned on my car,
and my fans don't turn on after startup. (The fans are PCM controlled, as
in the factory f-body)  If '96 can deal with these losses (with OBD-II
diags), then your '95 should.  Come to think of it, I've used my '95 PCM in
the car with no fan errors as well...

How did you defeat the VATS to be able to start the engine?  There are
really only two possibilities...

1.  modify the PCM data (re-program)
2.  used the factory "body" wiring, including ign. key cylinder and factory
key

Assuming you didn't GUT OUT a F/B/Y car to get the body wiring, I guess
somebody re-programmed your PCM.  I'd start there.  The first sign of a
seriously un-happy PCM is a fan-on condition. 

There's one other thing puzzling me...  You say that the fans turn on after
30 seconds.  This is very odd.  Usually the "I've lost my mind" PCM
condition turns on the fans upon key-on, i.e- engine not necessarily
running.  In fact, that's the DIY_EFI insti-check for a clean programming
is "key-on, fans-no".

The reason I mentioned the re-programming was that a programming error
(incomplete file, incompatible T&E side, etc) can make the car run "OK" but
have the fan-on condition.  A 96/97 PCM will set a code (don't recall the
P-number) that indicates a calibration error...  I don't recall if this
code is used in '95 or not.

Does your scan tool indicate "FANS: YES" for the fan status?  Of course, I
don't know what you are using for a scan tool.  Make sure that the PCM is
really commanding the fans.  Are both fans on?

Besides the fans, how does the car run?  Is the real-time data from your
scan tool reasonable?

Good luck,
Brock


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 19:31:35 1998
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From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>
To: "'DIY-EFI'" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: EPROM device used in Motronic BMW Motorcycles
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 16:33:18 -0800 
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Just a quick qusetion ... I was going to help someone by making a copy
of the EPROM in my stock Motronic bx on my BMW 16v, 1000cc K bike.
Anyone BTDT enough to know if the device is socketed or not and what
device type it is?  TIA!

Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)

PS - Since I get the list in digest form there's a chance I may miss a
response.  I'd appreciate it if you could copy me on any responses you
might have.

PPS - has anyone out there delved into the Motronic code for the
Beemers?  If so, I'd appreciate hearing about that as well ...

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 19:41:07 1998
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Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 16:48:47 +0000
From: Ron Tyler <dcmckenna@worldnet.att.net>
Organization: T. Engineering
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> All OBDII vehicles must have the connector defined by SAE J1962.  

> 
> If the connector has pin 2, 7 or 10 then it is OBDII.
> If the connector has a pin 2, but no pin 7 or pin 10 it uses the J1850 VPW
> standard
> If the connector  has pin 10, but no pin 2 or pin 7 it uses the J1850 PWM
> standard
> If the connector has a pin 7, but no pin 2 or pin 10 it uses the ISO 9141-2
> standard


FWIW, I had the J1962 connector and none of the pinouts described. The
PCM is from a '95 F-body. I disposed of the J1962 and installed an ALDL
-- 
Ron & Stephanie Tyler
'72 LT1/T56 240Z
http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 20:08:49 1998
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Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 17:15:36 +0000
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> How did you defeat the VATS to be able to start the engine?  There are


   I wired the VATS module into the car. I gutted out a spade fuse and
soldered in the proper resistor and epoxied it back to original shape. I
installed the holder out of view under dash. When I park in risky
territory, I just pull the "fuse".


> seriously un-happy PCM is a fan-on condition.


   I tried the "Key-on" for about 90 seconds. Nothing. I started the car
and 28 seconds later the fan came to life. It seems to be a consistant
time period.

   The PCM has never been reprogrammed.


> 
> Does your scan tool indicate "FANS: YES" for the fan status?  Of course, I
> don't know what you are using for a scan tool.  Make sure that the PCM is
> really commanding the fans.  Are both fans on?
> 
> Besides the fans, how does the car run?  Is the real-time data from your
> scan tool reasonable?
> 
  The scan tool is an AutoXray Xp240. It does indicate "fan: on". The
realtime data seems reasonable. I am only running the primary fan. The
car seems to run very well, although slightly better somtimes. The one
thing that I have noticed that doesnt seem right (other than the fan) is
the idle seems to take a while to settle in. In other words, When you
start the car, It runs a low rpm (mabey 1100). As it warms, it raises to
as high as 1500. But even after the car is fully warmed, you come to a
stop, engage clutch, and its still idling 1300, and then slowly drops to
around 1000. By slowly, I mean several seconds. It never matches the
requested RPM. 

Thanx Again
-- 
Ron & Stephanie Tyler
'72 LT1/T56 240Z
http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 20:48:20 1998
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Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 19:05:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Projection      502-20 2bbl Digital ProJection
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From: cosmic.ray@juno.com (Raymond C Drouillard)
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On Thu, 2 Apr 1998 15:37:32 EST TWright669 <TWright669@aol.com> writes:
>Now, I'm doing this from memory, BUT I think the map sensor is built
into the
>throttle body?  I know all the other sensors are (except coolant temp.)
>Tom
>

The MAP sensor is a black rectangular box.  I mounted mine on the
firewall and hooked it to a good source of vacuum on the manifold with a
vacuum hose.

Ray Drouillard

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 21:35:21 1998
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Subject: Re: Prog 101 Update
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Shannen Durphey wrote:

> Knock retard is handled by the esc box mounted on the right
> side of the intake manifold.
> it intercepts computed timing signal from 747

That is incorrect.  The ESC box only reports knock duration to the 
ECM, and the ECM program handles knock.  There is no EST connection to 
the ESC box.

Scot Sealander   Sealand@clarityconnect.com


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Andrew F. Gunnesch wrote:

> Is that how my '165 TPI motor works then? 

No.

> Is there any way to program the esc box ?

Not really, no need.  You really have to understand what the ECM program 
is doing.

Scot Sealander   Sealand@clarityconnect.com


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 21:52:52 1998
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To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: An introduction.... and a question or two. :)
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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 12:20:20 +0930
From: Raymond Jardine <rjardine@asc.corp.mot.com>
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Hi folks,

 I'm new to the diy_efi list so an introduction is probably in order.

 I've been involved in club level motorsport for more years and $$$ than I care 
to remember, and have over recent years developed an interest in Powertrain 
control and data aquisition.

 At the moment I'm trying to develop a test rig that can simulate the analog 
inputs normally provided by MAP sensors, lambda sensors and the like. In order 
to successfully simulate such a signal I'll need to establish the operating 
characteristics of such a sensor.

 To summarize, I need to know the range and frequency at which I should alter a 
signal, in order to simulate the behaviour of various analog inputs. 

 Can anyone suggest a reference source ?

rgds, Ray Jardine. 


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 22:30:52 1998
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From: "Eric Elliott" <eelliott@arkansas.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 10:11:06 -0600
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Hello,
Older GMC ECMs diddled the EGR & looked at injector duration to se if EGR
functioned. So it had to actually change AFR via EGR to pass test. Test was
done after engine warm.
My new 5.4 L measures EGR flow with a differential pressure transmitter.
Another case where a resistor won't fool it.

Eric
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Tyler <dcmckenna@worldnet.att.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question


>BTW, There is no temp sensor for the EGR, so I'm assuming that the PCM
>is verifying its operation through current measurement. Is this true? If
>so, then using a resistor here should also satisfy the PCM
>
>--
>Ron & Stephanie Tyler
>'72 LT1/T56 240Z
>http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 22:34:22 1998
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Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 21:15:28 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: John Hess <johnhess@cris.com>
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question
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Don't know about the LT1, specifically;  but, the L98 turns on the cooling
fan when it detects the air conditioner compresser is running.  You might
neet to check out that lead.

At 08:27 PM 4/1/98 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello All,
>
>     I installed a '95 LT1 in my 240Z. I have removed EGR, air pump,
>canister purge valve, shift indicator lamp, and MIL. Everything else is
>intact. About 30 seconds after starting the car, the cooling fan
>activates. Is this some sort of quasi limp-home mode due to the missing
>components? The PCM *does* go into closed loop, so I am assuming that it
>isnt a full blown "limp". Would I be correct?
>
>TIA
>-- 
>Ron & Stephanie Tyler
>'72 LT1/T56 240Z
>http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 22:45:05 1998
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From: "Peter Fenske" <ffnsp955@bcit.bc.ca>
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Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 19:39:18 +0000
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Subject: Re: KNOCKS
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Hi Gang..

Knock retard. When the ecm sees a knock signal the ecm will start
to pull out timing. ie retard the timing..The max timing the ecm will
pull out is given by a rpm indexed table.

How fast it pulls out the timing(attack??) is governed by
another rpm indexed table.

and how fast it releases or returns to normal timing is
governed by another rpm indexed table.

Note this is a generalization.. The knock module in 85-89 tpi and
the thick film in the newer pcms ecms are merely filter noise 
detectors.

later:peter


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 23:10:46 1998
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From: "Eric Elliott" <eelliott@arkansas.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: C3 & P4 ECM information
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 22:09:34 -0600
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Hello,
The older GM ECMs were well discussed in this mailing list about 3 years
back. The web site makes archive downloads easy. Just search the archive for
"C3" or "P4" or....
Some letters in the archives describe books that describe the ECMs.
Also mentioned are books that give values for the various sensors used with
domestic & foreign ECMs.
The recent letter about what resistor to make the water sensor lie about
temperature could have easily been answered by letters replied in the
archives.

Eric



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 23:12:21 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 23:11:50 -0500
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 Eric Elliott <eelliott@arkansas.net>


>Hello,
>Older GMC ECMs diddled the EGR & looked at injector duration to se if EGR
>functioned. So it had to actually change AFR via EGR to pass test. Test was
>done after engine warm.
>My new 5.4 L measures EGR flow with a differential pressure transmitter.
>Another case where a resistor won't fool it.
>Eric


And perchance what ecm would be an example of that?..
Bruce       When taller Cone Shaped Hat are made, we'll
                 be wearing them here first at world HQ


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 23:21:20 1998
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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 15:50:47 +1200
From: Simon Quested <questeds@whio.lincoln.ac.nz>
Subject: Idle probelm.....
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Message-id: <0EQT0075NKWDBN@kauri.lincoln.ac.nz>
Organization: Lincoln University
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Hi All

My car wont Idle well under 1100 rpm.
Car specs
Ford SOHC 4cyl "pinto" engine
Ported head
Mild "turbo" cam said the wrecker I got the motor from....could be anything. 
16th of an inch taken off the top of the pistons ( was a turbo engine, turbo died, 
saving dollars for the replacement )
Aftermarket old analog efi controller on it. ( Had 2" SU carb when the turbo was 
on)
Nissan Silvia injectors (1800 cc turbo) I don't know the rating
Toyota injection manifold.

It has new spark plugs NGK AP5FS and new plug leads.
I pulled the injector rail out and turned the key on, no leaky injector. 
I have an O2 sensor and the car runs well as long as you are over 1100rpm and 
It's reading above ~.7 

any suggestions????

Simon   
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
  Simon Quested (E-mail questeds@lincoln.ac.nz)
  Computer Technician, Silicon Graphics & Windows NT Support
  Centre for Computing and Biometrics
  LINCOLN UNIVERSITY OF NEW ZEALAND
  Phone (64)(03) 3252811 Ext. 8087
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
http://www.lincoln.ac.nz/ccb/techs/simon/default.htm
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
I drive way too fast to worry about cholesterol
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 23:28:29 1998
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From: "Eric Elliott" <eelliott@arkansas.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 22:26:16 -0600
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Hello,
The VATS defeat problem can be cured by your local alarm system installer. A
resistor or a 555 timer chip are commonly used to defeat (make happy) VATS
systems.

Eric
-----Original Message-----
From: Jennifer and Brock Fraser <fraser@forbin.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 6:48 PM
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question


>>From: Ron Tyler <dcmckenna@worldnet.att.net>
>>Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 20:27:11 +0000
>>Subject: LT1 EFI Question
>>
>>Hello All,
>>
>>     I installed a '95 LT1 in my 240Z. I have removed EGR, air pump,
>>canister purge valve, shift indicator lamp, and MIL. Everything else is
>>intact. About 30 seconds after starting the car, the cooling fan
>>activates. Is this some sort of quasi limp-home mode due to the missing
>>components? The PCM *does* go into closed loop, so I am assuming that it
>>isnt a full blown "limp". Would I be correct?
>>
>>TIA
>>- --
>>Ron & Stephanie Tyler
>>'72 LT1/T56 240Z
>>http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg
>
>
>Ron,
>
>I've got a twin-turbocharged LT1 in my Jaguar that runs on a '96 PCM.  I
>don't have any of the emissions-related equipment you mentioned on my car,
>and my fans don't turn on after startup. (The fans are PCM controlled, as
>in the factory f-body)  If '96 can deal with these losses (with OBD-II
>diags), then your '95 should.  Come to think of it, I've used my '95 PCM in
>the car with no fan errors as well...
>
>How did you defeat the VATS to be able to start the engine?  There are
>really only two possibilities...
>
>1.  modify the PCM data (re-program)
>2.  used the factory "body" wiring, including ign. key cylinder and factory
>key
>
>Assuming you didn't GUT OUT a F/B/Y car to get the body wiring, I guess
>somebody re-programmed your PCM.  I'd start there.  The first sign of a
>seriously un-happy PCM is a fan-on condition.
>
>There's one other thing puzzling me...  You say that the fans turn on after
>30 seconds.  This is very odd.  Usually the "I've lost my mind" PCM
>condition turns on the fans upon key-on, i.e- engine not necessarily
>running.  In fact, that's the DIY_EFI insti-check for a clean programming
>is "key-on, fans-no".
>
>The reason I mentioned the re-programming was that a programming error
>(incomplete file, incompatible T&E side, etc) can make the car run "OK" but
>have the fan-on condition.  A 96/97 PCM will set a code (don't recall the
>P-number) that indicates a calibration error...  I don't recall if this
>code is used in '95 or not.
>
>Does your scan tool indicate "FANS: YES" for the fan status?  Of course, I
>don't know what you are using for a scan tool.  Make sure that the PCM is
>really commanding the fans.  Are both fans on?
>
>Besides the fans, how does the car run?  Is the real-time data from your
>scan tool reasonable?
>
>Good luck,
>Brock
>



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 23:51:36 1998
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From: "Tyson McPherson" <tyson@ns.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Projection
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 20:48:46 -0800
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Hello all,

Yes, you can use the D or DI systems without the O2 sensor. Unpluging the O2
simply puts the system in open loop mode.

Also, I will state again: the 502-20 digital two barrel system is idenitcal
to the orginal 2bbl Pro-Jection system, with the exception that it is now
digital and not analog. All adjustments are still made the same way, and it
does not use a Map sensor or IAC.

I have been on this list since last December. Most of what takes place here
is above my level of knowledge, but I do find it very interesting. I
subscribed to this list to learn more about EFI, and what is being done by
people like yourself. I am an outside sale person for Holley Performance
Products (northern California), and this has kept my experice limited to
Pro-Jection only. If there is anything I can to help just let me know.

Tyson
tyson@ns.net
www.holley.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 8:26 AM
Subject: RE: Projection


>Andy,
>
>Can the 4Di be used without the O2 sensor?  (I realize tuning becomes more
>critical.)  Due to water-cooled exhaust system my marine application makes
>implementation of an O2 sensor difficult.  (One possibility I thought of is
>to tap into the currently blanked-off EGR port and run a seperate mini
>exhaust, but this raises questions of its own, such as how much flow would
>be required to give accurate feedback, where to discharge this exhaust,
>etc.  So for now no O2 sensor is my goal.)
>
>Holley is advertising a marine 4Di which should go on sale in a couple of
>months.  I've spoke with Holley tech twice.  One rep said that the marine
>4Di must use the O2 sensor and the other one said that it wasn't necessary.
> Sadly typical for Holley.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike Jones
>
>>>Squash  wrote:
>
>I have 2 4Di manuals.  One is not released yet (i feel so special...).
>If you would like a copy of that an the software, gimme a jingle.  The
>4Di uses a heated O2 sensor, by the way.  I drive mine to work and all
>over the place all the time, so i know it works!
>
>Andy Quaas>>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  2 23:57:08 1998
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From: "Tyson McPherson" <tyson@ns.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Projection
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 20:54:59 -0800
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Sorry about the spelling. I was typing and entertaining my one-year old son
at the same time.

Tyson
tyson@ns.net


-----Original Message-----
From: Tyson McPherson <tyson@ns.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Projection


>Hello all,
>
>Yes, you can use the D or DI systems without the O2 sensor. Unpluging the
O2
>simply puts the system in open loop mode.
>
>Also, I will state again: the 502-20 digital two barrel system is idenitcal
>to the orginal 2bbl Pro-Jection system, with the exception that it is now
>digital and not analog. All adjustments are still made the same way, and it
>does not use a Map sensor or IAC.
>
>I have been on this list since last December. Most of what takes place here
>is above my level of knowledge, but I do find it very interesting. I
>subscribed to this list to learn more about EFI, and what is being done by
>people like yourself. I am an outside sale person for Holley Performance
>Products (northern California), and this has kept my experice limited to
>Pro-Jection only. If there is anything I can to help just let me know.
>
>Tyson
>tyson@ns.net
>www.holley.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
>To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 8:26 AM
>Subject: RE: Projection
>
>
>>Andy,
>>
>>Can the 4Di be used without the O2 sensor?  (I realize tuning becomes more
>>critical.)  Due to water-cooled exhaust system my marine application makes
>>implementation of an O2 sensor difficult.  (One possibility I thought of
is
>>to tap into the currently blanked-off EGR port and run a seperate mini
>>exhaust, but this raises questions of its own, such as how much flow would
>>be required to give accurate feedback, where to discharge this exhaust,
>>etc.  So for now no O2 sensor is my goal.)
>>
>>Holley is advertising a marine 4Di which should go on sale in a couple of
>>months.  I've spoke with Holley tech twice.  One rep said that the marine
>>4Di must use the O2 sensor and the other one said that it wasn't
necessary.
>> Sadly typical for Holley.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Mike Jones
>>
>>>>Squash  wrote:
>>
>>I have 2 4Di manuals.  One is not released yet (i feel so special...).
>>If you would like a copy of that an the software, gimme a jingle.  The
>>4Di uses a heated O2 sensor, by the way.  I drive mine to work and all
>>over the place all the time, so i know it works!
>>
>>Andy Quaas>>
>>
>>
>>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 00:33:04 1998
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Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 22:21:05 -0700
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Scot Sealander wrote:
> 
> Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> > Knock retard is handled by the esc box mounted on the right
> > side of the intake manifold.
> > it intercepts computed timing signal from 747
> 
> That is incorrect.  The ESC box only reports knock duration to the
> ECM, and the ECM program handles knock.  There is no EST connection to
> the ESC box.
> 
> Scot Sealander   Sealand@clarityconnect.com

Greater knowledge can never be obtained until one accepts
that one hasn't a clue what they're talking about.  I stand
(humbly) corrected.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 01:44:32 1998
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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
>
<snip>
> Anyhoo, welcome aboard (and I was kidding about the dues :)
>
He sure was!  They go to my address.

nope.
Just try to post something incorrect once in a while. 
You'll get to pay your dues.
That was mentioned in good humour. :)
 
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Bridgeport, CT 06606
> 
> Homebrew Automotive Website:
> http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
> 
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1989 HMMWV
> 2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

Shannen Durphey

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 03:05:00 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: dzorde@geocities.com (dzorde)
Subject: Re: Idle probelm.....
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Howz the fuel pressure and vacuum during idle ? erratic ?

Dan     dzorde@geocities.com

>Hi All
>
>My car wont Idle well under 1100 rpm.
>Car specs
>Ford SOHC 4cyl "pinto" engine
>Ported head
>Mild "turbo" cam said the wrecker I got the motor from....could be anything. 
>16th of an inch taken off the top of the pistons ( was a turbo engine,
turbo died, 
>saving dollars for the replacement )
>Aftermarket old analog efi controller on it. ( Had 2" SU carb when the
turbo was 
>on)
>Nissan Silvia injectors (1800 cc turbo) I don't know the rating
>Toyota injection manifold.
>
>It has new spark plugs NGK AP5FS and new plug leads.
>I pulled the injector rail out and turned the key on, no leaky injector. 
>I have an O2 sensor and the car runs well as long as you are over 1100rpm and 
>It's reading above ~.7 
>
>any suggestions????
>
>Simon   
>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>  Simon Quested (E-mail questeds@lincoln.ac.nz)
>  Computer Technician, Silicon Graphics & Windows NT Support
>  Centre for Computing and Biometrics
>  LINCOLN UNIVERSITY OF NEW ZEALAND
>  Phone (64)(03) 3252811 Ext. 8087
>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>http://www.lincoln.ac.nz/ccb/techs/simon/default.htm
>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>I drive way too fast to worry about cholesterol
>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 03:47:26 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
References: <933713F1FB7BD111AC2300A0C98F1AD17750B3@milxpr06.kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: EPROM device used in Motronic BMW Motorcycles
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From: wenning.motorsport@t-online.de (Alexander Wenning)
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Buchholz, Steven schrieb:
> Just a quick qusetion ... I was going to help someone by making a copy
> of the EPROM in my stock Motronic bx on my BMW 16v, 1000cc K bike.
> Anyone BTDT enough to know if the device is socketed or not and what
> device type it is?  TIA!

Most BMW ECU´s have already a socket inside. The chip´s a 27C256 device.

Regards

Alex Wenning
wenning.motorsport@t-online.de



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 03:47:58 1998
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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 03:48:20 -0500
From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: SVO injectors
To: DIY_EFI <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Before I go and blow up my DFI ECU, I'd like to doublecheck the
resistance on the SVO injectors. Is it the high impedance type? DFI said
as long as I run 16-18 ohm injectors, I'll be fine w/ 4 on one driver.
If they aren't, poof! I'd love to put on a multimeter on the pins, but
they are buried under the Super Ram intake, and I just don't feel like
buying new gaskets, and also taking off rockers just to check this. I'm
putting on the DFI tonight, and according to you guys, I can run
1.5-1.6ms pulsewidths at idle, so we'll see how things go. How do I know
if I've gone past the too little pulsewidth stage? Any setup hints? DFI
gave me a base program for a 305 on the ECU, but I have the CALMAP
software to fix things (such as 30# injectors on a 300hp V8) TIA!

Andris "gotta get back to (starting) studying bearings and gears at 3:45
am" Skulte

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 07:34:38 1998
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Mike,
I'll take 50 if you'ree going to do it...
Figure out a price w/shipping.
You should make a litlle for handling, too.
Thanks,
Mike V

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 09:01:21 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: SVO injectors
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 09:00:52 -0500
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From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
To: DIY_EFI <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, April 03, 1998 4:19 AM
Subject: SVO injectors


>Before I go and blow up my DFI ECU, I'd like to doublecheck the
>resistance on the SVO injectors. Is it the high impedance type? DFI said
>as long as I run 16-18 ohm injectors, I'll be fine w/ 4 on one driver.


Just measure the resistance at the ECM.  Figure four 16 ohm 
injectors in parrarel, and you' know about what the min should be.
Measure from the fuse thru the injectors to the ecm.
Bruce    I wish ecms had been designed different, and they had,
              that soothing orange glow.


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 09:58:35 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: File needed
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 09:58:09 -0500
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Does anyone have a .bin for a Holden (Australian car) V-8, Auto
using a 808?.
  Does anyone know anyone who might?.
Cheers
Bruce    


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From: "Eric Elliott" <eelliott@arkansas.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 08:11:21 -0600
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Hello,
The old GMC pickup had a 1988 TBI EFI system, 1227747, PROM "AMUR".
The new Ford has a PCM that I have found no information on except what is in
the Electrical & Vacuum Manual.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 11:06 PM
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question


> Eric Elliott <eelliott@arkansas.net>
>
>
>>Hello,
>>Older GMC ECMs diddled the EGR & looked at injector duration to se if EGR
>>functioned. So it had to actually change AFR via EGR to pass test. Test
was
>>done after engine warm.
>>My new 5.4 L measures EGR flow with a differential pressure transmitter.
>>Another case where a resistor won't fool it.
>>Eric
>
>
>And perchance what ecm would be an example of that?..
>Bruce       When taller Cone Shaped Hat are made, we'll
>                 be wearing them here first at world HQ
>



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<SNIP>

  The scan tool is an AutoXray Xp240. It does indicate "fan: on". The
>realtime data seems reasonable. I am only running the primary fan. The 
>car seems to run very well, although slightly better somtimes. The one 
>thing that I have noticed that doesnt seem right (other than the fan) is 
>the idle seems to take a while to settle in. In other words, When you 
>start the car, It runs a low rpm (mabey 1100). As it warms, it raises to 
>as high as 1500. But even after the car is fully warmed, you come to a 
>stop, engage clutch, and its still idling 1300, and then slowly drops to 
>around 1000. By slowly, I mean several seconds. It never matches the 
>requested RPM. 
     
     Are the requested RPM and engine RPM the same or no? There are *so* 
     many things you can check, but just for the idle circuit the IAC 
     motor, the P/N switch, the VSS, the Distributor Reference Signal 
     (either high or low resolution), etc. If the scan tool is indicating a 
     requested 900 rpm, yet it is idling higher...I'd check the VSS/PN 
     circuit first. Did the PCM come out of an auto or manual trans car? If 
     it was from an auto, you will need to get it flashed for the manual 
     program. In this case, if the PCM gets a VSS signal, it will raise the 
     idle to prevent stalling.
     
     Later,
     
     Larry



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 10:53:12 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 10:52:43 -0500
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From: Eric Elliott <eelliott@arkansas.net>
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question


>Hello,
>The old GMC pickup had a 1988 TBI EFI system, 1227747, PROM "AMUR".
>The new Ford has a PCM that I have found no information on except what is
in
>the Electrical & Vacuum Manual.
>>>Hello,
>>>Older GMC ECMs diddled the EGR & looked at injector duration to se if EGR
>>>functioned. So it had to actually change AFR via EGR to pass test. Test
was done after engine warm.My new 5.4 L measures
EGR flow with a differential pressure transmitter.
>>>Another case where a resistor won't fool it.
>>>Eric
>>
>>And perchance what ecm would be an example of that?..
>>Bruce
>
Kinda funny in a way, what I did on a EGR Coding TBI was use the
EGR lead wire to trigger a voltage divider (resistor bridge) on the MAP
signal to stop the coding.  I thought the ECM was looking for a MAP signal
change to see if it was working, never thought it was looking for a injector
pulse change.  It did get rid of the coding thou.
Bruce    I'm sure glad my Cone Shaped Hat covers the bruises
              from beating my head against the wall......


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 10:55:48 1998
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From: "Eric Elliott" <eelliott@arkansas.net>
To: <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Project 101??
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 09:54:27 -0600
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Hello,
Don't know what is project 101, haven't screened the recent archives, but
would yall like dumps of PROMS for a 1227747 for a 1988 210 HP TBI system?
If yall want them, I'll search for a reader & post them. Or if that isn't
easy, will mail some EPROMs to some one that has a reader.

Every 2732 & 2764 PROM that I have tried worked OK in my old 1227747 system.
Even the Radio Shack PROM.

Also I have a 16134847 ECM containing SMD and QFP parts on a single board,
no recognizable CPU number & no PROM in a DIP. It is plug compatible with my
1227747 ECM and was intended for a ?? Perhaps this is a standard replacement
unit to be programmed before use. Does some one have a need for this?

Eric



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 10:59:14 1998
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Subject: Re: Re[2]: LT1 EFI Question
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Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 10:44:46 -0600 (CST)
In-Reply-To: <9804038916.AA891618003@smtpgate.anl.gov> from "lkurek@smtpgate.anl.gov" at Apr 3, 98 09:32:24 am
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> 
> 
> <SNIP>
> 
>   The scan tool is an AutoXray Xp240. It does indicate "fan: on". The
> >realtime data seems reasonable. I am only running the primary fan. The 
> >car seems to run very well, although slightly better somtimes. The one 
> >thing that I have noticed that doesnt seem right (other than the fan) is 
> >the idle seems to take a while to settle in. In other words, When you 
> >start the car, It runs a low rpm (mabey 1100). As it warms, it raises to 
> >as high as 1500. But even after the car is fully warmed, you come to a 
> >stop, engage clutch, and its still idling 1300, and then slowly drops to 
> >around 1000. By slowly, I mean several seconds. It never matches the 
> >requested RPM. 
>      
>      Are the requested RPM and engine RPM the same or no? There are *so* 
>      many things you can check, but just for the idle circuit the IAC 
>      motor, the P/N switch, the VSS, the Distributor Reference Signal 
>      (either high or low resolution), etc. If the scan tool is indicating a 
>      requested 900 rpm, yet it is idling higher...I'd check the VSS/PN 
>      circuit first. Did the PCM come out of an auto or manual trans car? If 
>      it was from an auto, you will need to get it flashed for the manual 
>      program. In this case, if the PCM gets a VSS signal, it will raise the 
>      idle to prevent stalling.
>      
>      Later,
>      
>      Larry
> 
> 
> 

On top of what larry said, check the value of IAC, idling out of
gear it should be fairly low.  This controls the air that bypasses
the main throttle body and is how the car controls idle.  It this
value is  0 it means the TB is open too far at idle.  There is a
set screw to adjust this.  Also if there is a large enough cam in
the engine it is really difficult to get it down to a low idle.  My
idle is currently set at 850 (out of gear) and 800 in gear, and cannot
seem to get the idle down that far.  Stock with an auto the
computer will request somewhere around 650 out of gear, and 550 in gear.  If it is requesting much higher that it was probably repogrammed.

				Roger Heflin

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 12:18:02 1998
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Hi Mike,

	Your second on the list. as a guess shipping and handling,
  would be in the $3-$5, On the low side if I have a box that will
  work on the high side if I have to buy some boxes. For the two 
  requests I have I can dig up a couple of boxes, I was worried
  about having 50 requests for 3-4 carriers, at which point shipping
  would be more problematic. 

Mike D.

 

> From diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu Fri Apr  3 07:38 CST 1998
> From: ECMnut <ECMnut@aol.com>
> 
> Mike,
> I'll take 50 if you'ree going to do it...
> Figure out a price w/shipping.
> You should make a litlle for handling, too.
> Thanks,
> Mike V
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 12:26:17 1998
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From: Greg Woods <gwoods@Symtx.com>
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Subject: Marine FI    was RE: Projection
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 11:26:10 -0600
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> Can the 4Di be used without the O2 sensor?  (I realize tuning becomes
more 
> critical.)  Due to water-cooled exhaust system my marine application
makes 
> implementation of an O2 sensor difficult.  <snip>.....  
> So for now no O2 sensor is my goal.)
> 
> Holley is advertising a marine 4Di which should go on sale in a couple
of 
> months.  I've spoke with Holley tech twice.  One rep said that the
marine 
> 4Di must use the O2 sensor and the other one said that it wasn't
necessary. 
>  Sadly typical for Holley.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike Jones

Mike,

I also have a marine engine with a wet exhaust.  It's a 4.3L mercruiser
which is basically a marinized GM 4.3L.  I've been thinking about how I
could use
a standard 4.3L GM TBI and ECM on this.  I'd have no O2, no EGR, no 
Smog pump and no spark distributer control:(.  The marine 4Di system
sounds kind of tempting, but I'd like to try and go the lower cost (junk
yard available) route of the GM stuff.

Does anyone have any thoughts about how I might adapt a GM ECM
for this type of situation?  Will it run without all the above mentioned
hooked up?

Greg Woods        gwoods@symtx.com        Austin, TX
back into lurk mode....

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 12:53:38 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Project 101??
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 12:53:11 -0500
Message-ID: <01bd5f29$5df86660$62198fd1@nacelp>
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 Eric Elliott <eelliott@arkansas.net>
>Hello,
>Don't know what is project 101, haven't screened the recent archives,

About identifing as many addresses on a 1227747 and going from there.

 but would yall like dumps of PROMS for a 1227747 for a 1988 210 HP TBI
system?

Bins and Broadcast codes would be fine, thank you

>If yall want them, I'll search for a reader & post them. Or if that isn't
>easy, will mail some EPROMs to some one that has a reader.

nacelp@bright.net
>
>Also I have a 16134847 ECM containing SMD and QFP parts on a single board,
>no recognizable CPU number & no PROM in a DIP. It is plug compatible with
my
>1227747 ECM and was intended for a ??

'92 Chev 2.2 eng code 4  Beretta types

>Eric
>
No worries mate
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 12:59:25 1998
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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 13:06:02 -0800
From: Emmett Stanicki <estanick@cgocable.net>
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I tried to Email this and it bounced, so I thought I would try tr list since I
got te address from DIY EFI member list.

Mail Delivery Subsystem wrote:

> The original message was received at Fri, 3 Apr 1998 12:54:23 -0500 (EST)
> from cgowave-26-13.cgocable.net [24.226.26.13]
>
>    ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
> <karwood@ix.netcom.com>
>
>    ----- Transcript of session follows -----
> ... while talking to ixmail9.ix.netcom.com.:
> >>> RCPT To:<karwood@ix.netcom.com>
> <<< 550 <karwood@ix.netcom.com>... User unknown
> 550 <karwood@ix.netcom.com>... User unknown
>
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: EEC
> Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 13:00:57 -0800
> From: Emmett Stanicki <estanick@cgocable.net>
> To: karwood@ix.netcom.com
>
> Hi
> I just seen your name on the DIY EFI list members info.
> I'm just getting started in decoding the Ford EEC-IV ECU and also A
> friend asked me about building a data collector for his Funny car.
> I was thinking I could use the Ford ECU to collect data once I figured
> out to program it.
> Well as you probably know its not that simple.
> Is there a lot of work in building a data collector like you have and
> would you sell one?
> Any and all info and advice welcome.
> Thank you and Take care- Emmett




From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 13:05:47 1998
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I'm trying to learn and decode Ford EEC-IV .
Does anyone have any Europe. Aussie or other foreign .bin files or info
as Ive heard they are different from North American?
I have a few ECU's that I'm working on now and starting to read, decode
them.
Thank you - Emmett


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 13:08:48 1998
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Subject: New to the list and a question.
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Hello all.  New to the DIY-EFI list and have a question (I don't have net
access here at work so I hope this isn't covered in an archive...if so, my
apologies).

I have a module designed to allow the removal of the catalytic converter
(for dragstrip use) on my '97 Dodge Dakota 5.2L.  I checked the output of
the #2 O2 sensor and measured approx. 40 mV.   The module is simply a
voltage divider that modifies the output to about 9-10% of the mV coming
into the module.  This would bring an ave. 450mV signal (since the cat is
gone it reads like the front O2 sensor) and output the 40mV, thus not
tripping the CEL.

Am I on the right track here or is there something I'm missing?  Thanks in
advance for any help.

*******97 RPM Dakota  - 14.98 @ 91.76*******

sean meldrum

Email @ Work: sean_meldrum@ittauto.com

Homepage: http://surf.to/real-per4mance

****************************************************



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 14:11:51 1998
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From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: EEC-IV
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>I'm trying to learn and decode Ford EEC-IV .
>Does anyone have any Europe. Aussie or other foreign .bin files or info
>as Ive heard they are different from North American?

How many would you like?

I was given "80MB" of some kind of ECM code binaries for all of the Ford
ECMs from 198x to 1995, and all they do is sit there.  I haven't made them
available because I didn't think anyone wanted to download an 80MB zip
file, and I didn't have 250MB of space on my server (uncompressed).  They
aren't very sorted, but you are welcome to play with them.  I haven't
really put the effort into figuring out exactly what is there.

Is this of any value to the group or no?


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 14:19:28 1998
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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 12:07:28 -0700
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Greg Woods wrote:
> 
> 
> I also have a marine engine with a wet exhaust.  It's a 4.3L mercruiser
> which is basically a marinized GM 4.3L.  I've been thinking about how I
> could use
> a standard 4.3L GM TBI and ECM on this.  I'd have no O2, no EGR, no
> Smog pump and no spark distributer control:(.  The marine 4Di system
> sounds kind of tempting, but I'd like to try and go the lower cost (junk
> yard available) route of the GM stuff.
> 
> Does anyone have any thoughts about how I might adapt a GM ECM
> for this type of situation?  Will it run without all the above mentioned
> hooked up?
> 
> Greg Woods        gwoods@symtx.com        Austin, TX
> back into lurk mode....

I've worked on two mercruiser 4.3 engines, one 4bbl, one
2bbl.  They used non-gm distributors, Ford ignition systems,
had non gm roller cams.  ECM can be installed and made to
run without too much trouble, but my 2 cents worth is to
keep it carb'ed and simple.  Don't know how big the lakes
are where you are, but we can and have been a long way from
shore and people when the boat broke down.  Not fun.

One item to note would be that the ecm usually used with the
4.3, the 1227747, is designed to be mounted inside a vehicle
and is not watertight.

Have fun, whatever you do.
Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 15:06:34 1998
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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 15:05:59 -0500
From: Thomas Matthews <Tmatthe1@worldnet.att.net>
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Mike- could I get 25 of these or are all of them spoken for?
Tom

as a guess shipping and handling,
  would be in the $3-$5, On the low side if I have a box that will
  work on the high side if I have to buy some boxes. For the two 
  requests I have I can dig up a couple of boxes, I was worried
  about having 50 requests for 3-4 carriers, at which point shipping
  would be more problematic. 

Mike D.

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 15:39:33 1998
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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 15:46:13 -0800
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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:

> I was given "80MB" of some kind of ECM code binaries for all of the Ford
> ECMs from 198x to 1995, and all they do is sit there.  I haven't made them
> available because I didn't think anyone wanted to download an 80MB zip
> file, and I didn't have 250MB of space on my server (uncompressed).  They
> aren't very sorted, but you are welcome to play with them.  I haven't
> really put the effort into figuring out exactly what is there.
>

Sure I'd like a copy. How were can I get it?
Thank you very much.



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 16:00:20 1998
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Hey, Carl Summers, are you out there?
Did anyone else order a Haltech from Carl Summers?
More importantly, has anyone else RECEIVED a Haltech from him?
His email and phone have been disconnected.  And he did not return my calls
when his phone WAS connected.
Luckily, I've got myself covered financially, but if your out there Carl, you
had BETTER give me a call, or else you will be getting one (where ever you
are) and you will be WISHING it was from me (cuz it wont be).  Mail fraud is a
Federal offense.
If there was a mix up, I apologize, but it is fairly irresponsable of you to
turn off your phone and not let people know what is going on.

Tom

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 16:37:20 1998
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From: "Daniel R. Henriksson" <rotax@ludd.luth.se>
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Subject: Motronic switch?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 23:37:15 +0200 (MET DST)
In-Reply-To: <352574C4.36FEFAD7@cgocable.net> from Emmett Stanicki at "Apr 3, 98 03:46:13 pm"
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I've got a Motronic box 0 261 200 012 in my Volvo 760 Turbo.
A CDP1802 based box, with a 2732 ROM chip.
Does anyone know how to alter the rev limiter? 
Inside it i found a blue 8-position switch.
What does the switch do?


/Daniel Henriksson

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 16:38:24 1998
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Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 16:37:48 EST
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Re: SVO injectors
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Coincidently enough,  I just bought some 24# Ford Motorsport SVO injectors and
recieved them 2 days ago.  I just put a multimeter on them and came up with
14.8 ohms.
They are a good deal aren't they!?  They were only $25 a piece.  I cant get my
old ones rebuilt that cheaply, and now I have a bunch of spares to boot!

Tom

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 17:15:16 1998
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From: DAVE_HEMPSTEAD@HP-Andover-om3.om.hp.com
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Subject: LT-1 questions from a beginner
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Hi,
   I've been a member of this digest for some time now, but haven't been paying 
a whole lot of attention (my fault, not enough time in the day :-).

   I've seen recent posts regarding LT1 engines and I could use some advice and 
help.  If my questions are too long or too detailed, I'll be glad to send email 
offline to the 'experts'.

   I've got a LT1 and 4L60E trans from a '96 Impala SS.  I'm putting these into 
my '34 Ford street rod <VBG>.  I've talked with John Spears (found through the 
NAISSO digest).  He has swapped my '96 PCM for a '95 Camare PCM and selected a 
speedometer calibration from the possible Camaro selections to nearly match my 
rear end and tire size.  I'm running one O2 sensor on each side of the exhaust, 
headers, no catalytic converter (the car remains registered as a 1934 model :-).
 Here are my questions:

   1.  I've been told my pair of knock sensors will not work with the '95 PCM.  
I need a Camaro knock sensor, and I need only one.  Is this true?

   2.  The headers will force me to move the knock sensor.  Can I relocate it in
the block?  Does it matter which side I put it on?
   

   General question:   I'm sure I will need a scan tool.  How expensive are 
they?  I have an electrical engineering background, can I build one myself?  Is 
it RS-232 based?  I'm sure this will be a critical tool for me.

   3.  I've removed the AIR pump and the gas canister.  Can I disable the 
trouble codes for these?  Or, can I fake the PCM to think that they are present?

   4.  I've read about the VAT.  I think I can build up a 555 circuit to fake 
it.

   5.  For space reasons (the '34 engine compartment is VERY tight) I may need 
to remove the MAF.  Is this a mistake????

   6.  For the same reasons, I may need to remove the EGR.  Is this a mistake???

   7.  Should I assume that I will need to buy a PCM programmer to customize my 
setup?  I know that they are expensive.  I think I have access to a scan tool at
a friend's shop, but I think I'll really need my own.  If I also need a 
programmer, I'm on my own there.   

Thanks in advance,
Dave Hempstead
dave_hempstead@hp.com
'34 Ford Sedan
Andover, Massachusetts



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 17:16:05 1998
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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 14:19:03 -0800
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: Carl Summers
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I got mine, and spoke with a while ago before I sent a check. So I'm not sure
what's up.

Sandy

At 03:59 PM 4/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Hey, Carl Summers, are you out there?
>Did anyone else order a Haltech from Carl Summers?
>More importantly, has anyone else RECEIVED a Haltech from him?
>His email and phone have been disconnected.  And he did not return my calls
>when his phone WAS connected.
>Luckily, I've got myself covered financially, but if your out there Carl, you
>had BETTER give me a call, or else you will be getting one (where ever you
>are) and you will be WISHING it was from me (cuz it wont be).  Mail fraud
is a
>Federal offense.
>If there was a mix up, I apologize, but it is fairly irresponsable of you to
>turn off your phone and not let people know what is going on.
>
>Tom
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 17:47:41 1998
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<I got mine, and spoke with a while ago before I sent a check. So I'm not sure
<what's up.

<Sandy

Yes, I spoke to him, also.  He said he'd call me when he recieved my check.
That was a while ago, though and I KNOW the US Postal service is not THAT
slow!  Since then, I havent heard anything and his phone was shut off and
EMAIL account closed.
What I dont understand is why he would shut down and disappear BEFORE cashing
the check.  Also, I got a real address from him.  Most scams are from PO
Boxes.  They can find you from a real address, even if you move out.
It just doesnt add up.  Maybe there really is an explanation other than fraud,
but I'm not going to wait and find out.
I'm really disappointed, though,  I was really looking forward to playing with
that Haltech!  Looks like I will have to find something else, AND
Dont buy anything from anyone except by COD!
Then you dont have to sit here and freak out!
Tom

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 18:01:51 1998
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From: "David" <david@gardener.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Automotive Applications Handbook for 67F687 and 67F6612
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 17:02:00 -0600
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Greetings all,

I just finished scanning the Automotive Applications Handbook for 67F687 and
67F6612.

Where do I put the collections of files?

Thanks for the opportunity to help.

David Edwards






From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 18:03:49 1998
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P.S.
Sorry to the rest of you for making veiled threats over your mailing list, but
I was pissed and freaked out after finding a bunch of returned email and the
"this line has been disconnected" message when try to call and find out whats
up.  Also, very disappointed in myself for (potentially) falling for this.

Tom

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 18:11:04 1998
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From: Kevin Vannorsdel <kv@us.ibm.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Carl Summers
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I had some dealings with Carl a while back.  I doubt very much that he scammed
you.  He was very helpful to me and has contributed to this list and its
members a number of times over the past few months....  matter of fact he went
quite out of his way for me once...  I really appreciated that.

I recommend giving him the benefit of the doubt-  maybe he has come into some
bad fortune lately...   maybe he could use a little slack.

Humbly submitted,

________________________________________________
  Kevin Vannorsdel     IBM Arm Electronics Development
    408-256-6492                Tie 276-6492     kv@us.ibm.com




owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu on 04/03/98 03:01:17 PM
Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc:
Subject: Re: Carl Summers


<I got mine, and spoke with a while ago before I sent a check. So I'm not sure
<what's up.

<Sandy

Yes, I spoke to him, also.  He said he'd call me when he recieved my check.
That was a while ago, though and I KNOW the US Postal service is not THAT
slow!  Since then, I havent heard anything and his phone was shut off and
EMAIL account closed.
What I dont understand is why he would shut down and disappear BEFORE cashing
the check.  Also, I got a real address from him.  Most scams are from PO
Boxes.  They can find you from a real address, even if you move out.
It just doesnt add up.  Maybe there really is an explanation other than fraud,
but I'm not going to wait and find out.
I'm really disappointed, though,  I was really looking forward to playing with
that Haltech!  Looks like I will have to find something else, AND
Dont buy anything from anyone except by COD!
Then you dont have to sit here and freak out!
Tom




From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 18:16:15 1998
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Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 16:16:12 -0700 (MST)
From: Matt Beaubien <mbeaubie@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca>
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To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: HEI timing jump
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Hi all,

There was some discussion a little while ago about how certain HEI modules
will suddenly advance the timing when not connected to the ECM. I would like
to use a couple of these on a motorcycle engine that has a missing timing
box. It has two Hall-effect  pickups and a coil pack. I could just use a
standard module but the thing would be hard to start with the proper amount
of advance.

My question is what module do I need exactly? A couple were mentioned but
I'm not sure which I need. Also, how does it get wired?

Thanks.


Matt Beaubien
mbeaubie@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca
3 x 510's
1 x 300ZXT
1 x Civic 1200


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 18:18:46 1998
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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 15:21:45 -0800
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: Carl Summers
In-Reply-To: <932ae1ca.35256aaf@aol.com>
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Just seems very strange, as I have a F3 sitting here, but yes, the email
bounced, and I tossed his phone number after I got the package. A bit on the
odd side. I think all the units were spoken for, so I wonder who else may have
got burned or got the F3's?

Just ODD, and it would bumm me out to have this happen, as I have had very
good
luck with Internet buying and selling.

Sandy

At 06:03 PM 4/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
>P.S.
>Sorry to the rest of you for making veiled threats over your mailing list,
but
>I was pissed and freaked out after finding a bunch of returned email and the
>"this line has been disconnected" message when try to call and find out whats
>up.  Also, very disappointed in myself for (potentially) falling for this.
>
>Tom
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 18:25:22 1998
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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 18:13:41 +0000
From: steve ravet <steve@sun4c409.imes.com>
Organization: International Meta Systems
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DAVE_HEMPSTEAD@HP-Andover-om3.om.hp.com wrote:
>    2.  The headers will force me to move the knock sensor.  Can I relocate it in
> the block?  Does it matter which side I put it on?

For my S-10 V8 conversion I moved it from the block to a hole I drilled
and tapped in the motor mount.  The JTR swap manual said it was fine,
and as far as I know it is...

> 
> 
>    General question:   I'm sure I will need a scan tool.  How expensive are
> they?  I have an electrical engineering background, can I build one myself?  Is
> it RS-232 based?  I'm sure this will be a critical tool for me.

If yours has an ALDL connector, you can pretty easily make your own scan
tool to read the data.  It's an unusual baud rate, 8192.  The problem is
decoding the data packet that comes out.  Seems like every ECM uses a
different size frame, and all the bytes mean different things.  There's
lots and lots of ALDL info in the archives, spend a weekend or so
browsing and you'll come up with lots of stuff.

Can't help with the rest....



--steve


--
Steve Ravet
International Meta Systems
http://www.imes.com
steve@imes.com

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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Carl Summers
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 18:46:29 -0500
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From: TWright669 <TWright669@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, April 03, 1998 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: Carl Summers


>P.S.
>Sorry to the rest of you for making veiled threats over your mailing list,
but
>I was pissed and freaked out after finding a bunch of returned email and
the
>"this line has been disconnected" message when try to call and find out
whats
>up.  Also, very disappointed in myself for (potentially) falling for this.
>
>Tom


For what it is worth he has been a huge help in the initial phases of
Programming 101.
  I'm more worried about his well being...
Bruce   CSH HQ


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 19:05:01 1998
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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 19:05:20 -0500
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Subject: Re: Marine FI    was RE: Projection
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Shannen Durphey wrote:
> Don't know how big the lakes
> are where you are, but we can and have been a long way from
> shore and people when the boat broke down.  Not fun.

A simple carburetor and point ignition is not foolproof either - as I
found out about 3 miles out from Murray Harbour PEI one warm summer day
in 1973 - and again on the Chobe river in Botswana southern Africa about
a year later. Got to the point I didn't want to be in a boat more than
jumping distance from shore. One reason I'm not too thrilled about 2
strokers in aircraft - I can swim a bit, but my arms get tired when I
try to fly!!
I know you guys are talking 4 stroke, automotive derived marine engines,
but the point still holds. In many cases I'd rather trust electronics -
a ludite I am not.
> 
> One item to note would be that the ecm usually used with the
> 4.3, the 1227747, is designed to be mounted inside a vehicle
> and is not watertight.
> 
> Have fun, whatever you do.
> Shannen

-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 19:20:20 1998
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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 19:21:15 -0500
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: HEI timing jump
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Matt Beaubien wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> There was some discussion a little while ago about how certain HEI modules
> will suddenly advance the timing when not connected to the ECM. I would like
> to use a couple of these on a motorcycle engine that has a missing timing
> box. It has two Hall-effect  pickups and a coil pack. I could just use a
> standard module but the thing would be hard to start with the proper amount
> of advance.
> 
> My question is what module do I need exactly? A couple were mentioned but
> I'm not sure which I need. Also, how does it get wired?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Matt Beaubien
> mbeaubie@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca
> 3 x 510's
> 1 x 300ZXT
> 1 x Civic 1200
>From what I figured out, will not give you advance with hall sensors as
they are strictly a switch. The advance appears to be a result of the
"trigger voltage" being reached more quickly at higher rotational
speeds.
Sorry the news is not better.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 20:11:18 1998
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From: "Joe Chiasson" <chiasson@hutchtel.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Compressed Natural Gas
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 19:06:23 -0600
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> The high octane rating of CNG has got me thinking about
> using it over methanol when running in a boost state.
> This should allow a high compression ratio for non-boost conditions
> when running on gasoline, such as freeway crusing,
> and then flow the CNG when the boost comes in.
> Only a small tank of CNG would be needed, not some heavy monster tank.
> If the CNG runs out, just wastegate out the boost until you get home
> to fill it up again from the public-utility natural gas supply
> running off your CNG compressor.  Sounds like a plan to me!
> Are the electronically controlled CNG regulators?
> 
> -Kelly Murray  kem@franz.com
>   http://www.htrd.com/kem/efi.html -- needs up now for CNG!

 1 gallon of CNG stored under 2400 psi gets you about 22% of the energy of
1 gallon gasoline.  3600 psi gets you about 33%.  If you make you tank too
small you will be making alot of trips back home.  But if your just looking
for a few passes on the strip it would be a cool idea.  Methane has a RON
of 120, while methanol has a RON of ~109 and a MON of ~89 (at least form
some of the literature i've read).   There is also LNG where I have read
you can get upto 67% of gasoline gallon equivalence.

j.

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 20:50:21 1998
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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 19:41:42 -0600
From: Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
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TO All

Carl is out there and is waiting for checks for about 5 boxes and cut
the money to close on getting  the boxes and they shut off his internet
service and will not be on till monday and will be back on the net. If
you guys want the boxes you need to get money in the mail you know who
you are.

Steven Gorkowski

TWright669 wrote:

> Hey, Carl Summers, are you out there?
> Did anyone else order a Haltech from Carl Summers?
> More importantly, has anyone else RECEIVED a Haltech from him?
> His email and phone have been disconnected.  And he did not return my
> calls
> when his phone WAS connected.
> Luckily, I've got myself covered financially, but if your out there
> Carl, you
> had BETTER give me a call, or else you will be getting one (where ever
> you
> are) and you will be WISHING it was from me (cuz it wont be).  Mail
> fraud is a
> Federal offense.
> If there was a mix up, I apologize, but it is fairly irresponsable of
> you to
> turn off your phone and not let people know what is going on.
>
> Tom




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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 20:04:54 -0600
From: Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
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There was one on the net that I down loaded is that the one you want?

Steve

Bruce Plecan wrote:

> Does anyone have a .bin for a Holden (Australian car) V-8, Auto
> using a 808?.
>   Does anyone know anyone who might?.
> Cheers
> Bruce




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Dudes, I smell a RAT, keep your checks.

See ya,

Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 21:48:26 1998
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From: gervais@rtrman.engr.sgi.com (Joe Gervais)
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In-Reply-To: DAVE_HEMPSTEAD@HP-Andover-om3.om.hp.com
        "LT-1 questions from a beginner" (Apr  3,  5:14pm)
References: <H00015791020b937@MHS>
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Dave,

I'm nearly in a similar boat.  I'm putting a 93 LT1 in my 61 Vette, and helping
a buddy put a 91 L98 in his 33 Ford Roadster.

Two resources I'd recommend is the JTR engine swap manual (www.jtr.com) and the
helm manual for the doner car. If you're running a 95 camaro PCM and harness,
I'd consider that the doner. This will answer questions like your knock sensors
and the like. Mike Knell's JTR books talk about moving knock sensors - not a
big deal.

With the camaro PCM code, you should be okay with your VAT. Vettes were more
complex, and you're better off programming it out.

Earlier this week, I saw a post about using 100 ohm resisters instead of
solenoids (like EGR and AIR) to keep the PCM happy.

As far as removing the MAF, you're better off with a 92/93 ECM setup and
harness. These were batch fire injectors (fire all four injectors at a time per
bank) rather than sequential like the 94 and up, but also were speed density
and didn't use the MAF.  Switching from one to the other can be an expensive
proposition, which may be better solved by selling your 96 motor and buying a
92/93 motor.

Diacom makes scanning software that runs on a Laptop. Roughly $300 for the
basic model and $500 for the advanced one.  I don't know about programming
tools for the PCM. Everything I've seen says that other than Hypertech's tool
which doesn't do a whole bunch more than let you change rear end ratios, it's
find a shop to send the PCM in for reprogramming.

Joe

-- 
_________________________________________________________________________
Joe Gervais                   gervais@sgi.com
Product Manager               (650) 933-7479 voice
High Performance Networking   (650) 964-0811 fax
Silicon Graphics              www.sgi.com

2011 North Shoreline Blvd, Mail Stop 08L-855, Mountain View, CA 94043-1389

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 21:48:43 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: File needed
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 21:48:11 -0500
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From: Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: File needed


>There was one on the net that I down loaded is that the one you want?
>Steve
>Bruce Plecan wrote:
>> Does anyone have a .bin for a Holden (Australian car) V-8, Auto
>> using a 808?.
>>   Does anyone know anyone who might?.
>> Cheers
>> Bruce
>
There doesn't seem to be enough on that one for a TCC, is why 
I'm asking for another.  By enough I mean tables, or I'm missing 
something (probably the later) LOL
Bruce


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Well, the good news is that Carl called and left a message today.  (probably
while I was on the net looking for him!)
I called him back, his phone was turned back on.
Apparently he spent ALL his money on the initial purchase of the Haltechs.
(and his phone and internet were shut off).
I will sigh a deeper sigh of relief when my Haltech shows up on my doorstep,
but in the mean time, I feel much better.
Apparently a bunch of you guys know him and he's been around awhile.
Anyway, I'm sorry I flew off the handle, so I'm headed out to down a few beers
and relieve some stress!
Again, I apologize, Carl.
I freaked.

Tom





<TO All

<Carl is out there and is waiting for checks for about 5 boxes and cut
<the money to close on getting  the boxes and they shut off his internet
<service and will not be on till monday and will be back on the net. If
<you guys want the boxes you need to get money in the mail you know who
<you are.

<Steven Gorkowski

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Ok bruce just thought you may not have seen it .

Steve

Bruce Plecan wrote:

> From: Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject: Re: File needed
>
> >There was one on the net that I down loaded is that the one you want?
>
> >Steve
> >Bruce Plecan wrote:
> >> Does anyone have a .bin for a Holden (Australian car) V-8, Auto
> >> using a 808?.
> >>   Does anyone know anyone who might?.
> >> Cheers
> >> Bruce
> >
> There doesn't seem to be enough on that one for a TCC, is why
> I'm asking for another.  By enough I mean tables, or I'm missing
> something (probably the later) LOL
> Bruce




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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 21:07:40 +0000
Subject: Re: HEI timing jump
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The last I remember, i was going to the library and gar thought he 
might round up some info.  I still haven't been to the library.

I think that we determined that the 4 terminal was strictly a switch.
Also that there was probably about8 deg advance because of the way 
the reluctor built its magnetic field as the speed of the distributor 
increased.  No help to you with a crank- hall timing.
There are other modules.  5pin for sure and I think a seven pin.
The question is: Is there a control signal(that could be hacked)  
causing the change in timing, or is the change in timing coming from 
the computer.  I lean towards an intelligent module that can be 
hacked.  Some place I got the notion that extra pin(s) receiaved a 
signal derived from the knock sensor that changed the timeing.  The 
vacuum advance and mechanical advance were of course still in the 
loop.  Wheteher the signal was a short, open, change in resistance or 
voltage, I have no idea.  And remember, at this point in time I am 
just rcollecting.  The SHADOW knows| | and so doesGM.

Bob McKnight
Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 23:03:46 1998
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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 20:51:41 -0700
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Clare Snyder wrote:
> 
> Matt Beaubien wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > There was some discussion a little while ago about how certain HEI modules
> > will suddenly advance the timing when not connected to the ECM. I would like
> > to use a couple of these on a motorcycle engine that has a missing timing
> > box. It has two Hall-effect  pickups and a coil pack. I could just use a
> > standard module but the thing would be hard to start with the proper amount
> > of advance.
> >
> > My question is what module do I need exactly? A couple were mentioned but
> > I'm not sure which I need. Also, how does it get wired?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Matt Beaubien
> > mbeaubie@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca
> > 3 x 510's
> > 1 x 300ZXT
> > 1 x Civic 1200
> >From what I figured out, will not give you advance with hall sensors as
> they are strictly a switch. The advance appears to be a result of the
> "trigger voltage" being reached more quickly at higher rotational
> speeds.
> Sorry the news is not better.
> --
>                                _/\_
>                        --|-----([])-----|--
>                          S    0/  \0    B
>          Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
>                   E-Mail service is back to normal
>                   To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
>                     Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
>                                 OR
> Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
> spammers!!!
> It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
> Turkeys!!!

Would it be possible to build a signal amplifier for hall
effect switches that will increase module trigger voltage as
rpm increases?  Seems like this is what you need.

Shannen

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Thanks Mike,

let me know where to send check and for how much....

Mike V.
__________________________________________________
_________________ reply separator ____________________
 	Your second on the list. as a guess shipping and handling,
   would be in the $3-$5, On the low side if I have a box that will
   work on the high side if I have to buy some boxes. For the two 
   requests I have I can dig up a couple of boxes, I was worried
   about having 50 requests for 3-4 carriers, at which point shipping
   would be more problematic. 
 
 Mike D.
  >>

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  3 23:15:09 1998
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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 21:03:06 -0700
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Clare Snyder wrote:
> 
> Shannen Durphey wrote:
> > Don't know how big the lakes
> > are where you are, but we can and have been a long way from
> > shore and people when the boat broke down.  Not fun.
> 
> A simple carburetor and point ignition is not foolproof either - as I
> found out about 3 miles out from Murray Harbour PEI one warm summer day
> in 1973 - and again on the Chobe river in Botswana southern Africa about
> a year later. Got to the point I didn't want to be in a boat more than
> jumping distance from shore. One reason I'm not too thrilled about 2
> strokers in aircraft - I can swim a bit, but my arms get tired when I
> try to fly!!
   ha.
> I know you guys are talking 4 stroke, automotive derived marine engines,
> but the point still holds. In many cases I'd rather trust electronics -
> a ludite I am not.
> >
> > One item to note would be that the ecm usually used with the
> > 4.3, the 1227747, is designed to be mounted inside a vehicle
> > and is not watertight.
> >
> > Have fun, whatever you do.
> > Shannen
> 
> --
>                                _/\_
>                        --|-----([])-----|--
>                          S    0/  \0    B
>          Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
>                   E-Mail service is back to normal
>                   To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
>                     Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
>                                 OR
> Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
> spammers!!!
> It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
> Turkeys!!!

Points or electronic ignition are fine. But increasing
complexity adds more potential for problems.  I trust an
electronic ignition module setup, but would be far less
trusting of a converted automotive engine system. Far far
less. 

Would probably offer to wait by the radio on shore in case
anything happened. ; )

Anyone else find they're constantly looking at a marine
engine when running a long stretch at 5500 RPM and just
waiting for a bang?
Just for curiosity's sake, what do some of you 4 cycle
marine guys redline at? What engine? 

Shannen

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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
<snip>
> 
> I was given "80MB" of some kind of ECM code binaries for all of the Ford
> ECMs from 198x to 1995
<snip>
 Is this of any value to the group or no?
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Bridgeport, CT 06606
> 
> Homebrew Automotive Website:
> http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
> 
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1989 HMMWV
> 2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
> 
> -
Would this have been from Tom Cloud?
Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr  4 01:02:13 1998
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>Would it be possible to build a signal amplifier for hall
>effect switches that will increase module trigger voltage as
>rpm increases?  Seems like this is what you need.
>
>Shannen
> 

Probabally could be done with some simple circuits, or even a PIC, and you
could just dial in your advance curve. Would require some thought to make it
all work. And yes, the standard 4 prong HEI module does not advance the timing
when fed digitally. It is the increase in voltage at higher RPM that cause the
trigger point to be hit sooner. Halleffects don't have that problem.

Sandy 

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr  4 09:09:05 1998
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To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: EEC-IV
In-Reply-To: <3525B1C8.5620A52F@mcn.net>
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>Would this have been from Tom Cloud?

*cough*, *cough*.  Tom who? *cough* *cough*


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr  4 13:09:37 1998
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From: "Eric Elliott" <eelliott@arkansas.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 16:33:30 -0600
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Neat solution. Change the MAP output measured, the fuel feed changes to
compensate, it works. Even if my information is wrong, your solution would
probably work for most EGR checks.
Besides I just assumed the Ford 5.4 Triton uses the EGR flow for its EGR
test. It may measure EGR flow but test EGR by an older method.

Eric
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, April 03, 1998 10:59 AM
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question


>From: Eric Elliott <eelliott@arkansas.net>
>Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question
>
>
>>Hello,
>>The old GMC pickup had a 1988 TBI EFI system, 1227747, PROM "AMUR".
>>The new Ford has a PCM that I have found no information on except what is
>in
>>the Electrical & Vacuum Manual.
>>>>Hello,
>>>>Older GMC ECMs diddled the EGR & looked at injector duration to se if
EGR
>>>>functioned. So it had to actually change AFR via EGR to pass test. Test
>was done after engine warm.My new 5.4 L measures
>EGR flow with a differential pressure transmitter.
>>>>Another case where a resistor won't fool it.
>>>>Eric
>>>
>>>And perchance what ecm would be an example of that?..
>>>Bruce
>>
>Kinda funny in a way, what I did on a EGR Coding TBI was use the
>EGR lead wire to trigger a voltage divider (resistor bridge) on the MAP
>signal to stop the coding.  I thought the ECM was looking for a MAP signal
>change to see if it was working, never thought it was looking for a
injector
>pulse change.  It did get rid of the coding thou.
>Bruce    I'm sure glad my Cone Shaped Hat covers the bruises
>              from beating my head against the wall......
>



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr  4 13:09:34 1998
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From: "Eric Elliott" <eelliott@arkansas.net>
To: <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: C3 & P4 ECM information
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 16:26:52 -0600
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Mike,
Off the top of my head I can give you an answer. The archives can do much
better. When the archives covered this area, Auto MFG engineers were on the
list and occasionally contributed to the discussion.
I have studied a little of EFI. Engineers, professors, Professional race
engine builders and tuners were in the list a few years back.
I wrote with your interest in mind, not my poor efforts.

Eric
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: 'eelliott@arkansas.net' <eelliott@arkansas.net>
Date: Friday, April 03, 1998 10:15 AM
Subject: RE: C3 & P4 ECM information


>Eric,
>
>I asked the question hoping that someone on the list had detailed knowledge
>about Powerstroke control schemes.  (The dealers I've been to sure as hell
>don't.  The Powerstroke mailing list is populated by a bunch of hicks more
>concerned with bug deflectors.)  Nothing especially enlightening in the
>archives that I was able to find -- especially since it turns out that the
>engine looks at oil temp, not coolant temp.
>
>Just like the motorcycle EFI question.  It started out as a simple request
>which sparked discussion and in the end (whoever it was that wanted the
>info) found out that there is a solution.
>
>I seen no harm in asking a question that might take someone all of 20
>seconds to answer off the top of their head.  I wasn't asking anybody to do
>any research for me.  If you don't know the answer or it isn't convenient
>for you to answer, then don't.
>
>That's my philosophy;  yours may differ.  Sorry to have wasted your time.
>
>Mike Jones
>
>----------
>Eric Elliott wrote:
>
>(snip)The recent letter about what resistor to make the water sensor lie
>about
>temperature could have easily been answered by letters replied in the
>archives.
>
>Eric
>
>
>
>
>



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr  4 14:25:40 1998
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From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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does anyone here want a program to play with these files,there's one for
win3.1 on the intel site,i think it can run .bin files,it give all the
content of register,memory and the likes,i'll search it for you tonight.

Alain Toussaint


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr  4 15:14:18 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: EEC-IV
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 15:13:26 -0500
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From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: EEC-IV
>does anyone here want a program to play with these files,there's one for
>win3.1 on the intel site,i think it can run .bin files,it give all the
>content of register,memory and the likes,i'll search it for you tonight.
>Alain Toussaint

Are you talking about a dissassemblier?.  
No worries mate
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr  4 15:43:21 1998
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What they have is an emulator for the 8096. Close enough. It
"runs" a program on screen where you can see what is happening to
all the internal registers, and output pins. 

These things are great tools for debugging a program you wrote,
or at least understand in detail, but it can require a lot of
effort if you are really trying to understand an unknown program.
It's worse yet if you don't know the addresses and detailed
innards of all the peripheral chips.

Ron Webb

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr  4 16:03:36 1998
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------1783469EC0B
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have a .bin for a Holden (Australian car) V-8, Auto
> using a 808?.
>   Does anyone know anyone who might?.
> Cheers
> Bruce


Which file would you like??

I have many different V8 files to suite the delco 808 (P4)
manual or auto (one has TCC lockup)
attched is a asbx memcal file for vn auto

have fun

justin

--------------1783469EC0B
Content-Type: application/octet-stream; name="Vnv8asbx.std"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="Vnv8asbx.std"

K0wMughYaLxdGAwaChgJ/+//WAoZCP9sCwgpODxLfR8KSKsPehwcWEgISAj/uDn/Gf8NKP8q
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--------------1783469EC0B--


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr  4 16:26:50 1998
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From: "Stefan Olsson" <stefan.olsson@bsrab.se>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: SV: File needed
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 23:26:38 +0200
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Dear sirs

Please check if we have the file on our chiplist
www.bsrab.se

Choose ,Swedish, Chiptrimning, Chiplistan, Manufacturer.
There is hundreds of files!

Best Regards
Stefan

-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Från: Justin Albury <jalbury@tpgi.com.au>
Till: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Datum: den 4 april 1998 23:14
Ämne: Re: File needed


>Bruce Plecan wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone have a .bin for a Holden (Australian car) V-8, Auto
>> using a 808?.
>>   Does anyone know anyone who might?.
>> Cheers
>> Bruce
>
>
>Which file would you like??
>
>I have many different V8 files to suite the delco 808 (P4)
>manual or auto (one has TCC lockup)
>attched is a asbx memcal file for vn auto
>
>have fun
>
>justin
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr  4 19:15:49 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: File needed
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 19:15:14 -0500
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From: Justin Albury <jalbury@tpgi.com.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: File needed


 Plecan wrote:
>> Does anyone have a .bin for a Holden (Australian car) V-8, Auto
>> using a 808?.
>>   Does anyone know anyone who might?.
>> Cheers
>> Bruce
>Which file would you like??
>I have many different V8 files to suite the delco 808 (P4)
>manual or auto (one has TCC lockup)
>attched is a asbx memcal file for vn auto
>have fun
>justin


The one with the TTC  is exactly what I'm looking for!.
No worries mate
Bruce
Thanks


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr  4 20:32:03 1998
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To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: EEC-IV
In-Reply-To: <35269C4B.33E3EC31@eagle.ptialaska.net>
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>It's worse yet if you don't know the addresses and detailed
>innards of all the peripheral chips.

True.

However, for those who are really, really savvy, I have an X-ray of an
EEC-IV module from a 5.0L Mustang, at my friend's bodyshop.  Its a
multi-layer board, however the different layers are different levels of
gray, due to the thickness of the board, layers etc.  Next time I go up
there I'll see how usable it is.  Its been a while.  I was talking with Tom
Cloud approximately 3-4 months ago about dissecting a EEC-IV, and I made
friends with the director of Radiology at the hospital I work at, and he
said "Sure, X-Ray anything you like".

So, I did.

Anyway, I didn't get the 80MB archive up yet.... stubborn drives !!!


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr  4 21:27:48 1998
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Yes I would like to look at anything to do with EEC.
Thank you

Alain Toussaint wrote:

> does anyone here want a program to play with these files,there's one for
> win3.1 on the intel site,i think it can run .bin files,it give all the
> content of register,memory and the likes,i'll search it for you tonight.
>
> Alain Toussaint




From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr  4 21:38:39 1998
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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:

> >It's worse yet if you don't know the addresses and detailed
> >innards of all the peripheral chips.
>
> True.
>
> However, for those who are really, really savvy, I have an X-ray of an
> EEC-IV module from a 5.0L Mustang, at my friend's bodyshop.  Its a
> multi-layer board, however the different layers are different levels of
> gray, due to the thickness of the board, layers etc.  Next time I go up
> there I'll see how usable it is.  Its been a while.  I was talking with Tom
> Cloud approximately 3-4 months ago about dissecting a EEC-IV, and I made
> friends with the director of Radiology at the hospital I work at, and he
> said "Sure, X-Ray anything you like".
>
> So, I did.
>

Now that is relay neat!   I'll bet Ford even doesn't have that.I was telling
someone I thought it was 3 layer and they asked why. Well I was getting nowhere
with VOM but I would have never thought of trying an XRAY. Boy you gotta use
all available stuff for serious hacking!
Can you blow up an xray like a photo?  That would make a cool picture to hang
on the wall.


> Anyway, I didn't get the 80MB archive up yet.... stubborn drives !!!
> Darn!




From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr  4 23:13:49 1998
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From: "Eric Elliott" <eelliott@arkansas.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Motronic switch?
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 22:04:31 -0600
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Daniel,
This looks very familiar, but I don't have a perfect memory.
I think the archives have a letter that answers your question. After reading
about 80 letters in the archive, I still think your answer is there. Maybe
you can find it in 1995 or 1996.

Eric
-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel R. Henriksson <rotax@ludd.luth.se>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, April 04, 1998 3:16 AM
Subject: Motronic switch?


>I've got a Motronic box 0 261 200 012 in my Volvo 760 Turbo.
>A CDP1802 based box, with a 2732 ROM chip.
>Does anyone know how to alter the rev limiter?
>Inside it i found a blue 8-position switch.
>What does the switch do?
>
>
>/Daniel Henriksson



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr  4 23:39:52 1998
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From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: EEC-IV
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>Now that is relay neat!   I'll bet Ford even doesn't have that.I was telling

Sorta neat, I don't think its terribly useful.  SInce the different layers
(however many they are) cross each ohter between layers, its really hard to
tell what goes where.  And while an ohm meter is suitable for tracing
circuit boards, having parts on the board realy makes it nearly impossible
to really know what goes where.  All you need is a diode and the ohm meter
going the right way, and it appears to be a foil trace.

I've spent a lot of time growing up reverse engineering not so
sophisticated items before.  Mostly electronics in musical instruments and
MIDI related stuff.

>with VOM but I would have never thought of trying an XRAY. Boy you gotta use
>all available stuff for serious hacking!

Well, I did it for giggles, not really expecting anything useful.  But it
was an opportunity to play with million dollar equipment :)

>Can you blow up an xray like a photo?  That would make a cool picture to hang
>on the wall.

Not sure really... you get 11x16" film and that's about it I think.  Though
we just installed video capture equipment on both the X-ray machines and
the MRI machines, so images can be reviewed without film - a major expense
for the hospital I work at.  Though considering they are upgrading all
their networks to 100MB of bandwith point to point for the 20-25MB images
that have to pass through, its not exactly cheap either.

That's my job function - I design and manage the implementation of anything
relating to the backbone.

Just got lucky with the department head of radiology - he's a sports car
enthusiast...


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 00:10:53 1998
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Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 21:58:47 -0700
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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References: <199804031716.LAA08070@mms10>
	 <3.0.5.32.19980403140940.007ae200@xephic.dynip.com> <3.0.5.32.19980404084128.007a5aa0@xephic.dynip.com>
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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> >Would this have been from Tom Cloud?
> 
> *cough*, *cough*.  Tom who? *cough* *cough*
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Bridgeport, CT 06606
> 
> Homebrew Automotive Website:
> http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
> 
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1989 HMMWV
> 2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
> 
> -
Ok.  Just didn't want to "me too" a second time.  Still got
80 megs of stuff that may come in handy some time.  Pack
rats gotta watch out what they pack.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 00:59:27 1998
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> Sorta neat, I don't think its terribly useful.  SInce the different layers
> (however many they are) cross each ohter between layers, its really hard to
> tell what goes where.  And while an ohm meter is suitable for tracing
> circuit boards, having parts on the board realy makes it nearly impossible
> to really know what goes where.  All you need is a diode and the ohm meter
> going the right way, and it appears to be a foil trace.

My DMM has a diode test position... beeps for continuity, otherwise
shows the forward voltage for a diode and out of range for open circuit
or reverse biased diode.  Might solve the diode problem ;-)

Orin.

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> Sorta neat, I don't think its terribly useful.  SInce the different layers
> (however many they are) cross each ohter between layers, its really hard to
> tell what goes where.  And while an ohm meter is suitable for tracing
> circuit boards, having parts on the board realy makes it nearly impossible
> to really know what goes where.  All you need is a diode and the ohm meter
> going the right way, and it appears to be a foil trace.

My DMM has a diode test position... beeps for continuity, otherwise
shows the forward voltage for a diode and out of range for open circuit
or reverse biased diode.  Might solve the diode problem ;-)

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 01:21:26 1998
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delphi has some product info. on a direct ignition ion system.
if this list becomes over 100000 maybe they could send one sample.
http://www.delco.com
alex

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 01:21:31 1998
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Subject: Re: coolant sensor liar (wasTuning 101)
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> From:          Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
> To:            "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
>                <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject:       coolant sensor liar (wasTuning 101)
> Date:          Tue, 31 Mar 1998 15:24:16 -0800
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

> <snip>  Bruce Plecan wrote:
> Just got reminded of something I didn't mention earlier.  No I do not
> stop, and start the car for every change I make.
>   Again depending on the car.  I might make a coolant temp sensor
> liar (adjustable pot in series with sensor), >>>
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of coolant sensor liar--
> 
> I've been working through a problem with my Powerstroke diesel, which if 
> you're not familiar with the breed, is a direct-injected diesel completely 
> controlled by the PCM, right down to the drive-by-wire throttle.
> 
> The problem is what can only be described as a lean missfire under 
> acceleration when fully warm.  It feels just like a gas engine with a plug 
> wire off.  Done it since new.  No codes are set, and I've heard through a 
> couple of reliable sources that there is no 'defect', the PCM was 
> calibrated this way for California and California wannabe's.  It runs 
> strong as a horse  when partially warm, coolant temp around 120-130 
> degrees.
> 
> Anybody have an idea of what range resistor I should begin experimenting 
> with so as to knock the reported temp down from 160?  This may be a quick 
> and dirty way to get me where I want to go.
> 
> Mike Jones
> 
> 
I have used 10K pot to ground.  Most work shops manuals have a 
themistor curve.
alex 

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Would like to know if anyone interested in making low cost
laser injection system for drag racing.
It needs to heat 0.6 cu. in. of air to 54000 F  one inch behind the 
driver at 20 times a sec. Also a large air injector is needed to spin
the car for stability.   More details are in April, 98 Discover Mag.
page 32.

alex  

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 01:56:03 1998
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Date: Thu, 04 Apr 1996 00:12:03 -0600
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From: Jennifer and Brock Fraser <fraser@forbin.com>
Subject: Re: LT-1 questions from a beginner
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>   1.  I've been told my pair of knock sensors will not work with the '95
PCM.  
>I need a Camaro knock sensor, and I need only one.  Is this true?

I wasn't aware that the '96 Impala engine had 2 knock sensors.  A '96
Camaro engine has only one sensor, and it feeds pin Blue-22 on the PCM.
Call the dealership and try to match knock sensor P/N's from a B and F car,
then you will know for sure.

>
>   2.  The headers will force me to move the knock sensor.  Can I relocate
it in
>the block?  Does it matter which side I put it on?

There are many opinions on this...  Try to locate it in a location that has
similar acoustic mass between the meat of the block and the threads as the
factory location.
>
>   3.  I've removed the AIR pump and the gas canister.  Can I disable the 
>trouble codes for these?  Or, can I fake the PCM to think that they are
present?

Disabling the codes is not an easy task.  I'd reccomend faking out the
system.  You'll need a shop manual to study the schematic and system
description, if you don't already have one.  The best bet is to live with
codes, but have your scan tool handy so that you know what they all are
anytime you want to check the status...

>
>   4.  I've read about the VAT.  I think I can build up a 555 circuit to
fake 
>it.
>
>   5.  For space reasons (the '34 engine compartment is VERY tight) I may
need 
>to remove the MAF.  Is this a mistake????

Removing the MAF will set codes, of course.  My experience is that these
controllers run just as well on the backup-mode (speed-density) as they do
with the MAF sensor in place.  In fact, no difference at all as indicated
on a chassis dyno.  As for drivability / idle / cold ambient, I don't have
much experience with that.  Another source claims BETTER throttle response
running on backup mode (MAF removed).

Of course, this should be done with a virtually un-modified engine unless
you are going to re-tune.  Backup mode won't compensate for your changes
well...


>
>   6.  For the same reasons, I may need to remove the EGR.  Is this a
mistake???

No W.O.T power penalties, but part throttle ping and/or stumble may occur.
And of course, more codes that aren't easily defeatable.

>
>   7.  Should I assume that I will need to buy a PCM programmer to
customize my 
>setup?  I know that they are expensive.  I think I have access to a scan
tool at
>a friend's shop, but I think I'll really need my own.  If I also need a 
>programmer, I'm on my own there. 

Somebody else reccomended a Diacom.  I agree - hard to beat it.  There's
another product at:

www.carcomp.com


Hope this helped,
Brock  


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 03:12:56 1998
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> Subject:       Re: SPAM ALERT
> To:            diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Date:          Thu, 26 Mar 1998 15:18:42 -0500 (EST)
> From:          "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

> > 
> > Working at Environment Canada's vehicle emissions test lab, I have seen many oil/fuel
> > additives and devices (magnets, rare metals, etc.) tested here that are supposed to
> 
Yes, we tested some magnets spark plugs  and fuel catalyzers.
For old carburetor cars there is non repeatable deviation that
customer assumes is a improvement.  
I have heard the magnets are selling well in third world countries, 
were people are dropping dead in streets from breathing air. 
> what city are you in
> I am in Toronto 
> 
Ronkonkoma, NY.  If you need any help in testing please contact.
Currently installing enhanced evap.
Alex   
http://www.he.net/~certlab

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In a message dated 98-04-04 23:50:46 EST, you write:

<< frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com >>
Hi Fred.....i saw your post about your hospital work.   I have been installing
CAT Scanners and MRI Scanners for the last 15 years. i never though about
using them to explore engine / electronics parts.   I think you started a new
trend.  I have unlimited use of an X-ray and CAT Scanner. Let me know what
else might be interesting to see......
Thanks,
Art

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 10:27:07 1998
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From: "Stefan Olsson" <stefan.olsson@bsrab.se>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: SV: Motronic switch?
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 16:26:48 +0200
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Hi

With the switch You can correct the fuel +/- 3%lambda and correct the
ignition +/- 3degres.
Check my site www.bsrab.se
Choose : Swedish/Chiptrimning/Chiplista/Manufacturer -Volvo.

Best Regards
Stefan


-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Från: Daniel R. Henriksson <rotax@ludd.luth.se>
Till: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Datum: den 3 april 1998 23:57
Ämne: Motronic switch?


>I've got a Motronic box 0 261 200 012 in my Volvo 760 Turbo.
>A CDP1802 based box, with a 2732 ROM chip.
>Does anyone know how to alter the rev limiter?
>Inside it i found a blue 8-position switch.
>What does the switch do?
>
>
>/Daniel Henriksson
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 12:19:58 1998
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>My DMM has a diode test position... beeps for continuity, otherwise
>shows the forward voltage for a diode and out of range for open circuit
>or reverse biased diode.  Might solve the diode problem ;-)

True.

Though I'm still an advocate of removing all the circuitry, if possible.
Makes the process go much, much faster.  On older circuits, this is pretty
easy.  On all these new surface mount stuff, makes it more difficult.

An oven at 500 degrees doesn't cut it :(




Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 16:01:04 1998
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Justin Albury wrote:

> attched is a asbx memcal file for vn auto

This file is NG.  There is a bit picked in a lot of locations.

Scot Sealander   Sealand@clarityconnect.com


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 16:42:39 1998
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Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 15:40:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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> Are you talking about a dissassemblier?.  
> No worries mate
> Bruce

no,a full featured program for testing every files you care to give it (i
was debuging an OS with it back when i was running win95).

Alain

p.s.sorry for the late reply,i was doing a party this week-end


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 17:31:52 1998
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> >
> >   6.  For the same reasons, I may need to remove the EGR.  Is this a
> mistake???
> 
> No W.O.T power penalties, but part throttle ping and/or stumble may occur.
> And of course, more codes that aren't easily defeatable.

i would be nervous about doing that,your motor have (according to all my
sources) 10:1 compression and according to the naisso web site,they even
have 10.5:1 compression so unless you're going to coat the cylinder
head,piston and take great care about anything that can play a role in
detonation,i would not do that if i where you.

Alain Toussaint

p.s.the cylinder head are retain more heat than aluminium head too



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 17:53:02 1998
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>
> Though I'm still an advocate of removing all the circuitry, if possible.
> Makes the process go much, much faster.  On older circuits, this is pretty
> easy.  On all these new surface mount stuff, makes it more difficult.
>
> An oven at 500 degrees doesn't cut it :(


Come on, you have a bar-b-que dont you ;-) 

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 18:17:16 1998
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Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 09:39:02 +1200
From: Simon Quested <questeds@whio.lincoln.ac.nz>
Subject: Re: Idle probelm.....
In-reply-to: <199804030804.AAA18841@geocities.com>
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Hi Dan

> Howz the fuel pressure and vacuum during idle ? erratic ?

Vacuum is erratic, FP unknown I don't have a gauge..... 

Cheers

Simon
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
  Simon Quested (E-mail questeds@lincoln.ac.nz)
  Computer Technician, Silicon Graphics & Windows NT Support
  Centre for Computing and Biometrics
  LINCOLN UNIVERSITY OF NEW ZEALAND
  Phone (64)(03) 3252811 Ext. 8087
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
http://www.lincoln.ac.nz/ccb/techs/simon/default.htm
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
I drive way too fast to worry about cholesterol
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 19:02:29 1998
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From: Scot Sealander <Sealand@clarityconnect.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, April 05, 1998 4:38 PM
Subject: Re: File needed


>Justin Albury wrote:
>> attched is a asbx memcal file for vn auto
>This file is NG.  There is a bit picked in a lot of locations.
>
>Scot Sealander   Sealand@clarityconnect.com
>
What does "This file is NG", mean?.
What does "There is a  bit picked in a lot of locations", mean?..
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 19:09:51 1998
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Subject: Re: EEC-IV
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 16:09:49 -0700 (PDT)
In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.19980405121209.007a8150@xephic.dynip.com> from "Frederic Breitwieser" at Apr 5, 98 12:12:09 pm
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> Though I'm still an advocate of removing all the circuitry, if possible.
> Makes the process go much, much faster.  On older circuits, this is pretty
> easy.  On all these new surface mount stuff, makes it more difficult.

> An oven at 500 degrees doesn't cut it :(

I suppose the hot air gun on high would deal with the surface mount...
of course, it may be difficult finding the little Rs and Cs after they get
blown across the room!

Fortunately, my Audi ECU is all thru hole and pretty easy to see where
everything goes... so much so that I hadn't really considered removing
all the circuitry.  Applying the wire snips would make short work of most
of it!  It certainly worked for the pressure sensor when I upgraded from
the stock 2.0 bar to a motorola 2.5 bar.

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 19:48:08 1998
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
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Subject: Re: Marine FI    was RE: Projection
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 01:44:01 +0200
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I have a mercury 2.5 efi outboard, it's two stroke,280hp v6 .The new
engines have
digital injection ,my 92 model have analog injection ,it's a speed density
system.
I have heard it's the same as on old VW's.Bosch d-jetronic? It uses low ohm
injectors.Its possible to alter the fuel by turning a pot on the side of
the fuel
computer.
Do anybody know how to "program" this computer for a modifyed engine?
Is it possible to fit a GM EFI to this engine? a 747?
97year world champion tunnel boat, used a formula 1 (car) efi.They used one
EGT probe for each cyl.The engine gave nearly 400hp.(2,5l)Under 10000rpm.
They did not have a single break down during the season.The efi box was
inside
the boat in a dirt cheep rubber maid box.
Espen



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 19:51:01 1998
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Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 18:49:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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Subject: Re: LT-1 questions from a beginner
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> p.s.the cylinder head are retain more heat than aluminium head too
                        ^^^
talk about goofing,i need to review my english knowledge !!!!

Alain
  


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 21:13:50 1998
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Date: Sun, 05 Apr 1998 21:14:05 -0400
From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: DFI open/closed loop problems
To: DIY_EFI <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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I put the DFI in yesterday, and everything is running pretty well. The
one major problem right now is getting the darn thing into closed loop.
>From what I've got programmed, it should be in closed loop above 100
degrees coolant, 750<rpm<2000, TPS<70%. I've been driving around, but it
just stays into open loop. Idle, cruise, whatever, it is still in open
loop. A weird symptom is the 02 is always 806mV at whatever throttle I'm
at. I richened the entire fuel map 10% to raise the o2's, but it still
stay at 806. I then lowered the stock fuel map 7%, and o2's didn't
change at all. I figured in open loop they should change. I'm pretty
sure the o2 sensor works correctly, since the volts climb as it warms
up, and when I shift or lift off the throttle, they drop down from
806mV. I will be putting the heated O2 next weekend, in the hope that
will cure some of this... Any ideas?

Andris

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 21:14:53 1998
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Date: Sun, 05 Apr 1998 14:02:09 -1000
From: "Paul E. Bueltmann III" <paulb3@gte.net>
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Subject: Re: Idle probelm.....
References: <0EQY00160OKNZZ@kauri.lincoln.ac.nz>
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Simon Quested wrote:
> 
> Hi Dan
> 
> > Howz the fuel pressure and vacuum during idle ? erratic ?
> 
> Vacuum is erratic, FP unknown I don't have a gauge.....
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Simon
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>   Simon Quested (E-mail questeds@lincoln.ac.nz)
>   Computer Technician, Silicon Graphics & Windows NT Support
>   Centre for Computing and Biometrics
>   LINCOLN UNIVERSITY OF NEW ZEALAND
>   Phone (64)(03) 3252811 Ext. 8087
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> http://www.lincoln.ac.nz/ccb/techs/simon/default.htm
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> I drive way too fast to worry about cholesterol
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Do a compression check or the pull one sparkplug wire off at a time (do
with caution and protection).  It sounds like you have a broken valve
spring or something mechanical wrong.

later paulb3@gte.net

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 22:06:41 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DFI open/closed loop problems
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 22:06:05 -0400
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From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
To: DIY_EFI <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: DFI open/closed loop problems


>I put the DFI in yesterday, and everything is running pretty well. The
>one major problem right now is getting the darn thing into closed loop.
>From what I've got programmed, it should be in closed loop above 100
>degrees coolant, 

Sure it's F, and not C?

750<rpm<2000, TPS<70%. I've been driving around, but it
>just stays into open loop. Idle, cruise, whatever, it is still in open
>loop. A weird symptom is the 02 is always 806mV at whatever throttle I'm
>at. I richened the entire fuel map 10% to raise the o2's, but it still
>stay at 806. I then lowered the stock fuel map 7%, and o2's didn't
>change at all. I figured in open loop they should change. I'm pretty
>sure the o2 sensor works correctly, since the volts climb as it warms
>up, and when I shift or lift off the throttle, they drop down from
>806mV. I will be putting the heated O2 next weekend, in the hope that
>will cure some of this... Any ideas?
>
>Andris

Does the O2 need to swing for it to look awake to the ecm.  ie, it's
so rich, that it doesn't "look" right to the ecm.  Were ya using a 1.8
msec base pulse?.  Might try way down like 1.5, just a guess.
Bruce    
          Easier to ask for forgiveness, than get permission,
          some married dude...


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 22:38:44 1998
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Date: Sun, 05 Apr 1998 18:49:22 +0000
From: Ron Tyler <dcmckenna@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: DFI open/closed loop problems
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Andris Skulte wrote:
> 
> I put the DFI in yesterday, and everything is running pretty well. The
> one major problem right now is getting the darn thing into closed loop.

 FWIW, I programmed an SDS system w/closed loop option. It had a 25%
limitation, meaning that the pulse-width had to be within 25% of 14.7. 

Hope this helps
-- 
Ron & Stephanie Tyler
'72 LT1/T56 240Z
http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 23:03:00 1998
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        "DFI open/closed loop problems" (Apr  5,  9:14pm)
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Sure it's in F, not C, Andris?

Since your O2 is stable, however, it leads me to believe that you have
a problem with your sensor or the circuit.

The DFI might likely stay in open-loop mode if it believes that the
O2 sensor is inoperative.

Sure you got the hookup correct ?  Maybe a DVM on the O2 lead at idle
to see if it's changing at all...  or an el-cheap-o LED meter for O2
sensors?

Good luck,

andrew

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 23:03:02 1998
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In-Reply-To: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
        "DFI open/closed loop problems" (Apr  5,  9:14pm)
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Sure it's in F, not C, Andris?

Since your O2 is stable, however, it leads me to believe that you have
a problem with your sensor or the circuit.

The DFI might likely stay in open-loop mode if it believes that the
O2 sensor is inoperative.

Sure you got the hookup correct ?  Maybe a DVM on the O2 lead at idle
to see if it's changing at all...  or an el-cheap-o LED meter for O2
sensors?

Good luck,

andrew

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 23:13:16 1998
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Eric,

Fair enough.  Your comment makes more sense now.  Thought you were one
of the 'mailinglist police' that trys to limit discussion only to the
high and mighty...

Mike 

Eric Elliott wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> Off the top of my head I can give you an answer. The archives can do much
> better. When the archives covered this area, Auto MFG engineers were on the
> list and occasionally contributed to the discussion.
> I have studied a little of EFI. Engineers, professors, Professional race
> engine builders and tuners were in the list a few years back.
> I wrote with your interest in mind, not my poor efforts.
> 
> Eric


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 23:47:13 1998
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Subject: Re: Marine FI    was RE: Projection
References: <47D5AD54221AD111873F00600831A35B13201B@ds9> <35253370.2CE2F042@mcn.net> <35257940.78DD@huron.net> <3525B0FA.60D2068E@mcn.net>
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>Anyone else find they're constantly looking at a marine
>engine when running a long stretch at 5500 RPM and just
>waiting for a bang?
>Just for curiosity's sake, what do some of you 4 cycle
>marine guys redline at? What engine?
 
My 351W in an inboard 'tournament' Malibu Skier turns all of 3900 rpms.
It's low 'cause I live at 4500 ft elevation. I'm in the process of
adding GT-40 heads and converting to a roller cam to get back what's
lost to altitude.

You have a point about reliability, but I still want to pursue FI
because of the frequent trips I make to high elevation lakes (6500 ft).
I'm also after nearly instant starts:  My setup takes a fair amount of
cranking when fully warm.  I expect I'll carry my old carb and mech.
fuel pump on board with me just in case...

Funny, but I don't worry about this setup going bang.  Don't know why,
just doesn't worry me.  Now my old Evinrude 125 horse, THAT one DID go
bang.  Twice.  Once the propshaft broke and a nearly new stainless prop
headed for the bottom, and once a piston pin broke.  Actually made it
back on three.

Mike Jones


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr  5 23:52:20 1998
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Date: Sun, 05 Apr 1998 23:52:36 -0400
From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: Re: DFI open/closed loop problems
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> >From what I've got programmed, it should be in closed loop above 100
> >degrees coolant,
> 
> Sure it's F, and not C?

Pretty sure, since the default is 140, and that is kinda hot in C for
coolant :)

> Does the O2 need to swing for it to look awake to the ecm.  ie, it's
> so rich, that it doesn't "look" right to the ecm.  Were ya using a 1.8
> msec base pulse?.  Might try way down like 1.5, just a guess.

DFI doesn't have a base pulse feature. The fuel map is rpm vs MAP, and
the values are pulsewidths. At the 1 bar row, the values go from
7.7ms@400rpm, peak at 9.15@4000, and go back down to 8.5@5200. DFI lets
you reduce the value of the whole map by a certain percentage, and I
tried 93%(7% reduction) to see if there was an 02 change (wasn't). I'm
leery of leaning it out too much, since I'm afraid of detonation and
blowing up the motor... I'll hood up the DIY_EFI o2meter onto it as soon
as I build another one (first one croaked after a cold spell) FWIW, I'm
running 30# injectors, on a 320hp (350 w/ SR intake maybe) V8 motor and
batch fire speed density injection. I can email DFI files to anyone that
is interested, or can help. Thanks again :) 

Andris

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 00:08:58 1998
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> just stays into open loop. Idle, cruise, whatever, it is still in open
> loop. A weird symptom is the 02 is always 806mV at whatever throttle I'm
> at. I richened the entire fuel map 10% to raise the o2's, but it still

1rst, a constant 806 mV o2 reading indicates a *very* rich condition, and
the A/F bar will stop toggling when this happens.  Try leaning up the fuel
values in that area, and see if you can get the bar to start toggling.

2nd, how do you know it's in open loop??  The only way I know of to
determine that is to see if the A/F bar is toggling or not.  There are 4
possible conditions:
1: bar is there, but doesnt toggle;  means way too rich.
2: bar is not there at all; means it is in closed loop.
3:  bar is on right side of 14.7; means it's too lean.
4:  bar is toggling to the left of 14.7, means you're values are good in
that area (for cruising and light throttle).

'86 Z28 350 DFI Richmond 6-speed
Robert Wilkinson
http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~rw



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 00:08:57 1998
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> just stays into open loop. Idle, cruise, whatever, it is still in open
> loop. A weird symptom is the 02 is always 806mV at whatever throttle I'm
> at. I richened the entire fuel map 10% to raise the o2's, but it still

1rst, a constant 806 mV o2 reading indicates a *very* rich condition, and
the A/F bar will stop toggling when this happens.  Try leaning up the fuel
values in that area, and see if you can get the bar to start toggling.

2nd, how do you know it's in open loop??  The only way I know of to
determine that is to see if the A/F bar is toggling or not.  There are 4
possible conditions:
1: bar is there, but doesnt toggle;  means way too rich.
2: bar is not there at all; means it is in closed loop.
3:  bar is on right side of 14.7; means it's too lean.
4:  bar is toggling to the left of 14.7, means you're values are good in
that area (for cruising and light throttle).

'86 Z28 350 DFI Richmond 6-speed
Robert Wilkinson
http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~rw



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 02:17:48 1998
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Use a signal amp with voltage controlled gain, a F-V converted will give you
the increasing voltage as your rpm's increase, which in turn will bump the
gain on your amp.  A neat little all hardware method.

Dan     dzorde@geocities.com

>Would it be possible to build a signal amplifier for hall
>effect switches that will increase module trigger voltage as
>rpm increases?  Seems like this is what you need.
>
>Shannen
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 02:24:33 1998
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Subject: Re: plasma injection system
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Try Scotty, should be able to get you at leadt warp 5.

Dan     dzorde@geocities.com

>Would like to know if anyone interested in making low cost
>laser injection system for drag racing.
>It needs to heat 0.6 cu. in. of air to 54000 F  one inch behind the 
>driver at 20 times a sec. Also a large air injector is needed to spin
>the car for stability.   More details are in April, 98 Discover Mag.
>page 32.
>
>alex  
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 05:48:50 1998
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Snake oil too??  High Temp Coatings
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I have been away for a few days, and got this so if the thread has
progressed..

On the outside of the turbo you should be fine, I would not put the
internals of the housing up against a grit blast.  What I would do
though, is apply it a little way down the inside of inlet and outlet of
the housing. While I was at it I would put WSX on the shaft and turbine
bearingings, and also coat the outside of the compressor housing but
using  DFL

>----------
>From: 	d houlton x0710[SMTP:tc75918@hpnfssvr.mdhc.mdc.com]
>Would this stuff work on the turbine housing of a turbo?  Seems like  
>it would if it works on headers, but I've seen pictures with the turbine
>red hot while I've never seen headers glow quite so brightly.  What is
>the temp limit for these coatings?
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 07:05:28 1998
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From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: LT-1 questions from a beginner
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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-> i would be nervous about doing that,your motor have (according to all
-> my sources) 10:1 compression and according to the naisso web
-> site,they even have 10.5:1 compression so unless you're going to coat
-> the cylinder head,piston and take great care about anything that can
-> play a role in detonation,i would not do that if i where you.

 My 2-liter Ford engine is fully coated, pistons, valves, combustion,
chambers, and ports are thermal barrier coated.  With 11.5:1 on regular
gas I can advance the timing until it no longer runs and it still won't
ping.

 Of course, it takes forever to get any warm water for the heater in the
winter time, but that's the breaks...
     

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 07:06:21 1998
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From: martin@mgass.demon.co.uk
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 12:02:34 +0000
Subject: OBD-II (related to LT1 EFI)
Priority: normal
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I wonder if there are vehicles out there that have a J1962 16 pin 
socket but are not OBD-II.

I have a European GM car that appears to be this way (CarComp won't 
work with it) yet the error codes the ECU logs are definately OBD-II 
P0XXX codes.  (It has pin 7 but no pin 10 or 10).

I have noted on the Actron site that they have a NON-OBD-II  ScanTool 
that works with US GM vehicles, some of which need a special 16pin
J1962 adaptor cable. The OBD-II module is a separate option for a
different list of cars again..

So it looks to me that some manufacturers are fitting the J1962 
connector (presumable for standardisation reasons) but not 
implementing the OBD-II protocols unless they are forced to
(which in Europe they do not have to...yet!).

The question remains about my GM vehicle... is it perhaps OBD-I or a 
GM proprietary protocol ?
Is OBD-I as well defined as OBD-II  (and where is it defined).

regards,

Martin
-----------------------------------------------------------
martin@mgass.demon.co.uk
-----------------------------------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 08:08:40 1998
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Subject: Re: DFI open/closed loop problems
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Sounds like your too rich or the O2 sensor is not working,  E-mail me 
your file and I'll look at it, I'm running Calmap V6.2

> 
> DFI doesn't have a base pulse feature. The fuel map is rpm vs MAP, and
> the values are pulsewidths. At the 1 bar row, the values go from
> 7.7ms@400rpm, peak at 9.15@4000, and go back down to 8.5@5200. DFI lets
> you reduce the value of the whole map by a certain percentage, and I
> tried 93%(7% reduction) to see if there was an 02 change (wasn't). I'm
> leery of leaning it out too much, since I'm afraid of detonation and
> blowing up the motor... I'll hood up the DIY_EFI o2meter onto it as soon
> as I build another one (first one croaked after a cold spell) FWIW, I'm
> running 30# injectors, on a 320hp (350 w/ SR intake maybe) V8 motor and
> batch fire speed density injection. I can email DFI files to anyone that
> is interested, or can help. Thanks again :) 
> 
> Andris
> 
> 
Randy Braun     rbraun@enter.net
91  GTA
82 Firebird

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 08:58:37 1998
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From: Bruno! <b.marzano@student.canberra.edu.au>
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Subject: Re: X-ray......
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On Sun, 5 Apr 1998, MRASHAN wrote:

> In a message dated 98-04-04 23:50:46 EST, you write:
> 
> << frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com >>
> Hi Fred.....i saw your post about your hospital work.   I have been installing
> CAT Scanners and MRI Scanners for the last 15 years. i never though about
> using them to explore engine / electronics parts. 

So you could see any tumors in engine blocks.. sounds like a good
idea :)

		 Bruno. (b.marzano@student.canberra.edu.au)

		     Diet sig: low bandwidth signature


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From: mfahrion@bb-elec.com (Mike Fahrion)
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: OBD-II (related to LT1 EFI)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 08:12:35 -0500
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>I wonder if there are vehicles out there that have a J1962 16 pin
>socket but are not OBD-II.


Absolutely.  It does add to the confusion.  Many 1995 LT1's were shipped
like this.

The absolute way to tell is by looking at the pin configuration.

>I have a European GM car that appears to be this way (CarComp won't
>work with it) yet the error codes the ECU logs are definately OBD-II
>P0XXX codes.  (It has pin 7 but no pin 10 or 10).

hmmmm - sounds like an iso9141 configuration - what model/year car?  Where
was it mfg'ed?  How are you reading the error codes?

I am trying to add as much relevant information as I can on this subject to
our web site at www.obdii.com.

It does seem like there is a large fuzzy line during the transition to obdii
where it was gradually phased in.  Obviously its a little easier to tell in
the states.

>I have noted on the Actron site that they have a NON-OBD-II  ScanTool
>that works with US GM vehicles, some of which need a special 16pin
>J1962 adaptor cable. The OBD-II module is a separate option for a
>different list of cars again..
>
>So it looks to me that some manufacturers are fitting the J1962
>connector (presumable for standardisation reasons) but not
>implementing the OBD-II protocols unless they are forced to
>(which in Europe they do not have to...yet!).
>
>The question remains about my GM vehicle... is it perhaps OBD-I or a
>GM proprietary protocol ?
>Is OBD-I as well defined as OBD-II  (and where is it defined).
>
>regards,
>
>Martin
>-----------------------------------------------------------
>martin@mgass.demon.co.uk
>-----------------------------------------------------------
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 09:25:29 1998
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Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 08:25:22 -0500
From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
Subject: Re: Automotive Applications Handbook for 67F687 and 67F6612
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Try:

ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/incoming

David wrote:

> Greetings all,
>
> I just finished scanning the Automotive Applications Handbook for 67F687 and
> 67F6612.
>
> Where do I put the collections of files?
>
> Thanks for the opportunity to help.
>
> David Edwards




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 09:59:44 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 14:54:19 +0000
Subject: Re: OBD-II (related to LT1 EFI)
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Mike,

Thanks for the reply, further info as follows :

> The absolute way to tell is by looking at the pin configuration.
> 
..Should have read ...has pin 7, but no pin 10 or 2.

> >I have a European GM car that appears to be this way (CarComp won't
> >work with it..etc etc
> hmmmm - sounds like an iso9141 configuration - what model/year car?  Where
> was it mfg'ed?  How are you reading the error codes?

..1996 Vauxhall Omega 2ltr (SimTec ECU), model first released 1994.  
Marketed in US as Cadillac Catera (but with different engines & 
different ECU ?)

...Car had some problems with Crank Sensor (now fixed), can read the error 
codes by connecting pins 4 & 6 (if I remember correct) to get the MIL to 
blink the codes. (Code was 01335).
CarComp OBDTool does not get beyond the break sequence, i.e. the ScanTool
does not see a 55H back from the ECU at the ECU preferred baud rate (was
expecting 10.4Kb).
Also got access to a GM Tec 2 Scanner (briefly unfortunately), this
confirmed error codes.
..Do you have any info on OBD-I ?

> I am trying to add as much relevant information as I can on this subject to
> our web site at www.obdii.com.

...Yes i've been there...looks like will be a great site.

regards,

Martin
-----------------------------------------------------------
martin@mgass.demon.co.uk
-----------------------------------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 10:54:22 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 08:10:59 +0000
Subject: Re: HEI timing jump
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Dan

The amp sounds interesting, but I wonder if you will have the angular 
shift of the trigger voltage that you get with the reluctor.  I 
suspect that the hall device works over a narrower range(crank 
rotation) than the reluctor.  If anybody trys this, please publish 
your results. 

Bob McKnight
Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 11:01:14 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'Fuel Injection List'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Average fuel maps
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Hi,

Does anyone out there have some average figures for the injector
'on-times' that you would expect to see on an engine?  I would imagine
that they would fall into a similar set of values as the size and flow
of an injector would be selected to suit the engine, so what I am
wanting is to try and generate a list of typical injector durations for
say a 4, 6, 8 and perhaps 12 cylinder engines, so that it is possible to
start a mapping with very 'ball park' figures based on some statistical
stuff...


Cheers

Rob Humphris

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 11:36:53 1998
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Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 11:36:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bruno P Vanzieleghem <brunov@engin.umich.edu>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Honda F2 injectors.
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I am looking for suitable injectors for a Honda F2 engine (600cc). We are
running the engine with a 20 mm restricter. Does anyone know of suitable
injectors (at a reasonable price).

Bruno Vanzieleghem



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 11:50:15 1998
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> Anyone else find they're constantly looking at a marine
> engine when running a long stretch at 5500 RPM and just
> waiting for a bang?
> Just for curiosity's sake, what do some of you 4 cycle
> marine guys redline at? What engine? 

I have the mercruiser 4.3L w/ the "thunderbolt" ignition
in a 91 18' sea ray.
I'm pretty sure the manual says to not exceed 4800 RPM.

Greg Woods    gwoods@symtx.com    austin, tx


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 12:16:42 1998
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From: "Niels Ezerman" <nez@cybernet.dk>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: OBD-II (related to LT1 EFI)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 18:15:46 +0200
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Hello Martin,

> 1996 Vauxhall Omega 2ltr (SimTec ECU), model first released 1994.  
> Marketed in US as Cadillac Catera (but with different engines & 
> different ECU ?)

My best guess is, there is no OBD-II program code in the ECU.

At the moment i know that in Europe a few Saab 9000, Volvo 850 
and Lotus will communicate with fx. CarComp OBDTool.

I am going to a SAE OBD-II meeting in Belgium at the end 
of this month, i hope to know more about the state of
OBD-II here in Europe then.


Niels Ezerman
Silkeborg, DK
nez@cybernet.dk
http://www.cybernet.dk/users/nez


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 12:21:32 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Average fuel maps
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 12:20:59 -0400
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: 'Fuel Injection List' <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, April 06, 1998 11:40 AM
Subject: Average fuel maps
>Does anyone out there have some average figures for the injector
>'on-times' that you would expect to see on an engine?  I would imagine
>that they would fall into a similar set of values as the size and flow
>of an injector would be selected to suit the engine, so what I am
>wanting is to try and generate a list of typical injector durations for
>say a 4, 6, 8 and perhaps 12 cylinder engines, so that it is possible to
>start a mapping with very 'ball park' figures based on some statistical
>stuff...
>Cheers
>Rob Humphris

>From what I just heard was 1-5ms for TBI, and 2-10 for Port.

No worries mate
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 12:47:33 1998
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From: mfahrion@bb-elec.com (Mike Fahrion)
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: OBD-II (related to LT1 EFI)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 11:47:25 -0500
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>> >I have a European GM car that appears to be this way (CarComp won't
>> >work with it..etc etc

>> hmmmm - sounds like an iso9141 configuration - what model/year car?
Where
>> was it mfg'ed?  How are you reading the error codes?

>..1996 Vauxhall Omega 2ltr (SimTec ECU), model first released 1994.
>Marketed in US as Cadillac Catera (but with different engines &
>different ECU ?)


hmmmm - the US version of the Cadillac Catera uses the ISO9141
implementation of OBDII.

>...Car had some problems with Crank Sensor (now fixed), can read the error
>codes by connecting pins 4 & 6 (if I remember correct) to get the MIL to
>blink the codes. (Code was 01335).

I think if it was true obdii this wouldn't have worked.

>CarComp OBDTool does not get beyond the break sequence, i.e. the ScanTool
>does not see a 55H back from the ECU at the ECU preferred baud rate (was
>expecting 10.4Kb).

That pretty well rules out ISO9141.  I think you're on the right track with
"obd-i".  You get into a real grey area here though since this isn't really
a standard the way obdii is.  The guy at carcomp has some expertise in
pre-obdii german cars (vw in particular), perhaps he could offer some
insight.

Good Luck
-mike

>Also got access to a GM Tec 2 Scanner (briefly unfortunately), this
>confirmed error codes.
>..Do you have any info on OBD-I ?


>regards,
>
>Martin
>-----------------------------------------------------------
>martin@mgass.demon.co.uk
>-----------------------------------------------------------


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 13:25:59 1998
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From: "Lino Verna" <lino@sequoiasci.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Honda F2 injectors.
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 10:22:51 -0700
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Smells like formula SAE to me....

We injected an FZR 600 when I was working on the project a couple years ago
with University of Washington.  If I remember right, we searched up and down
to find a suitable OEM source.

Then we called Siemens and they helped us figure exactly what size and spray
pattern we needed, then they made us custom injectors to that spec, then
they gave us 8 of them!
GOD BLESS SIEMENS.

I would try to do the same.
Remember, Siemens is an awfully big company, so you need to find the right
contact in the right division.  Not an easy task I am afraid,  and as I was
not the one who talked to them, I am not gonna be able to help you much in
that direction either.

Good Luck

lino


>I am looking for suitable injectors for a Honda F2 engine (600cc). We are
>running the engine with a 20 mm restricter. Does anyone know of suitable
>injectors (at a reasonable price).
>
>Bruno Vanzieleghem
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 14:02:45 1998
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Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 13:00:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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>  My 2-liter Ford engine is fully coated, pistons, valves, combustion,
> chambers, and ports are thermal barrier coated.  With 11.5:1 on regular
> gas I can advance the timing until it no longer runs and it still won't
> ping.
> 
>  Of course, it takes forever to get any warm water for the heater in the
> winter time, but that's the breaks...

i guess your engine have aluminium cylinder (does it's a zetec ??) unless
it's a destroked ford 2.3 unit,aluminium head reject more temperature than
iron head (Impala SS LT1 have iron head unlike their LT1 counterpart from
the F-body and Y-body),your cylinder head is coated,the LT1 is not,but if
you have a destroked 2.3,the LT1 has an advantage compared to your
setup,it's reverse cooled (if you have the zetec,i think you have reverse
cooling too but i'm not sure),the way EGR counter detonation is by
introducing inert gas in the cylinder at part trottle (it dont need it
when WOT,the mix is rich enough),these inert gas prevent hot spot in the
head because cylinder pressure is not too high and the head are
cooler,hope all this helped.

Alain Toussaint

p.s.how much power does your 2.0 liter make and does it has good trottle
reaction too,i'm just currious ??



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 14:03:19 1998
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Subject: Removing Electronic Parts
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>I suppose the hot air gun on high would deal with the surface mount...
>of course, it may be difficult finding the little Rs and Cs after they get
>blown across the room!

Could be.  That's one method I haven't tried yet.  Though a shopvac with a
mesh screen (window screen) over the end certainly is one way of catching
them.

>all the circuitry.  Applying the wire snips would make short work of most

Put the board edge into your vice, and use a good quality serraded bread
knive, cut everything off in one shot.  Watch your fingers.  I've done this
one successfully.  I knew Ginsu Knives would come in useful.

And no, don't use a BBQ (that was to you Sandy <G>)

>of it!  It certainly worked for the pressure sensor when I upgraded from
>the stock 2.0 bar to a motorola 2.5 bar.

Good Orin, very good :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 14:08:11 1998
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To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: X-ray......
In-Reply-To: <Pine.SOL.3.95.980406225657.1477A-100000@student.canberra.e
 du.au>
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>So you could see any tumors in engine blocks.. sounds like a good
>idea :)

X-raying an engine block I would imagine would be a pain in the ass, since
medical X-ray equipment is designed to handle bodies rather than blocks.
To properly X-ray a block, one would have to put the x-ray head against the
outside of the block, and put the film inside the cylinder walls.  I don't
see how to get all angles, and all shots easily.  Nor, how to carry in a
Buick V6 into the ER.

A circuit board is one thing :)

Well, back to your regularly programming of DIYEFI :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 14:12:24 1998
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From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: plasma injection system
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> >Would like to know if anyone interested in making low cost
> >laser injection system for drag racing.
> >It needs to heat 0.6 cu. in. of air to 54000 F  one inch behind the 
> >driver at 20 times a sec. Also a large air injector is needed to spin
> >the car for stability.   More details are in April, 98 Discover Mag.
> >page 32.
> >
> >alex  
> >

can someone explain what's this ????? (sound something straight out of the
nasa lab !!!)

Alain Toussaint


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 14:45:37 1998
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Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 12:33:17 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
  Nor, how to carry in a
> Buick V6 into the ER.
> 
> A circuit board is one thing :)
> 

Well, back to your regularly programming of DIYEFI :)
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Bridgeport, CT 06606
> 
> Homebrew Automotive Website:
> http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
> 
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1989 HMMWV
> 2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

Glue enough wires to it and it can pass as "special test
equipment" 
Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 15:13:44 1998
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Subject: high rpm "popping" sound
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I was out 4-wheeling (yup, in the mud) sunday and noticed something. 
This is my first high-rpm run with this truck/motor.  4500-5000 rpm, 454
with holley projection, 268 cam, headers, alum intake, etc.  It sounded
like an ignition miss.  I have a new accell blueprint HEI (electronic
advance) with all new accell parts except the coil, which is probably
100 years old.  Also running 34 degrees total ignition advance.  I
recorded a run on the laptop, and analyzed it.  I could not see much of
a pattern except that it only occurs over 4500 rpm.  The O2 almost the
entire time was around 60 mV.  Normal cruising usually reads around 85
mV.  Here's the question(s):

Will the O2 read correctly under very heavy throttle (50% and up), and
if so, does 60mV sound lean, and could my popping sound be from running
lean?

Could this be my ignition?  The only original part is the HEI coil.  The
spark plugs are brand new and gapped according to the manual (can't
remember what, tho).

And lastly, could this be valve float?  I know that big-block chevrolets
are known to do this, but i have never experienced it, so i don't know
if it is or not!

Thanks in advance for everyones help.
-- 
Andy Quaas

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 15:13:47 1998
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Subject: high rpm "popping" sound
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I was out 4-wheeling (yup, in the mud) sunday and noticed something. 
This is my first high-rpm run with this truck/motor.  4500-5000 rpm, 454
with holley projection, 268 cam, headers, alum intake, etc.  It sounded
like an ignition miss.  I have a new accell blueprint HEI (electronic
advance) with all new accell parts except the coil, which is probably
100 years old.  Also running 34 degrees total ignition advance.  I
recorded a run on the laptop, and analyzed it.  I could not see much of
a pattern except that it only occurs over 4500 rpm.  The O2 almost the
entire time was around 60 mV.  Normal cruising usually reads around 85
mV.  Here's the question(s):

Will the O2 read correctly under very heavy throttle (50% and up), and
if so, does 60mV sound lean, and could my popping sound be from running
lean?

Could this be my ignition?  The only original part is the HEI coil.  The
spark plugs are brand new and gapped according to the manual (can't
remember what, tho).

And lastly, could this be valve float?  I know that big-block chevrolets
are known to do this, but i have never experienced it, so i don't know
if it is or not!

Thanks in advance for everyones help.
-- 
Andy Quaas

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 16:50:25 1998
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Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 16:51:56 -0700
From: Scot Sealander <Sealand@clarityconnect.com>
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Bruce Plecan wrote:

> What does "This file is NG", mean?.

 NG = No good.


> What does "There is a  bit picked in a lot of locations", mean?..

That is what is wrong with the file.  Bits on in the same bit location at 
various addresses.

Scot Sealander   Sealand@clarityconnect.com


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 21:08:26 1998
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Message-ID: <352997C5.49B6@ra.msstate.edu>
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 20:04:37 -0700
From: Steve N <sgn1@ra.msstate.edu>
Organization: Home
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Subject: Home Dyno/ 2d v 3d/ new list?
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> There's a software package called Home Dyno for $40 bucks that does 
> this.

Speaking of the home dyno, has anyone tried this?  It looks to be a
great idea, and would be alot cheaper than real dyno time.  Granted it
may not be a spot on as a dyno would be, but it seems like it would be
perfect for dialing in a aftermarket EFI system.  Comments?


Next I have some questions on 2d vs 3d.  Now from what I understand 2d
is a system where two values are entered and one numebr pops out for the
computer to make use of.  If this is true, this is a 2d system right:

ftp://ftp.mr2.com/pub/geoff/mr2/sw20inj3.gif

Or is it a 3d system, and they just do not show the 3rd axis, and just
show the maximum vaules for the z?  I guess it could be both, it just
depends on if the vaue for the z axis is variable.

Now a 3d system would once again input 2 numbers thus isolating a single
axis paralle to the z-axis.  Then the final number would be output based
on what the z-axis said.  Right?


Finally I must say that I love this list!  There is all kinds of great
talk to get you thinking.  And while I know this is a EFI list, it is
obvious that we easliy and often go into other non-EFI subjects most
notabley Turbos and engine desgin. (the huge thread on variable
compression was great!)  Now while this does not bother me in any way, I
was wondering if it would be a good idea to start a sperate list that is
devoted to just these things, so that we would not bother those that
doesn't like reading all that stuff.  Unless of course everyone on this
list likes it.  The High-performacne engine desgin and forced induction
list. (HPED&FIL, it just rolls off the touge doesn't it? :) 

Steve N.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 21:25:25 1998
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Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 20:18:24 -0500
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Cleaning out the the lab and something has to go so I decided to sell
my PC AT and XT proto boards. I will sell  the XT cards for $15, AT
cards for $20  + COD and shipping or if you trust me send a check to
save COD charge . These cards are full size cards with the whole card
filled with machine tool gold plated wire wrap pins covering the whole
board would make a great EFI PC project card .  Hope no one is offended
by this just want members to get first shot. PLEASE CONTACT ME OFF LINE.

Steven Gorkowski
kb4mxo@mwt.net


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 21:27:17 1998
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Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 21:30:06 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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dzorde wrote:
> 
> Use a signal amp with voltage controlled gain, a F-V converted will give you
> the increasing voltage as your rpm's increase, which in turn will bump the
> gain on your amp.  A neat little all hardware method.
> 
> Dan     dzorde@geocities.com
> 
> >Would it be possible to build a signal amplifier for hall
> >effect switches that will increase module trigger voltage as
> >rpm increases?  Seems like this is what you need.
> >
> >Shannen
> >
Still won't work. It is not the absolute voltage that mnatters. Digital
at ANY voltage will not produce the advance. It is the RATE OF RIZE of
the voltage that is critical. The ignitor triggers at a particular
voltage. This voltage is reached ealier or later depending onspeed due
to the distictive qualities of an inductive pickup. Don't matter what
you do to a switch, and a HALL device is just a switch, you will not
duplicate the "built in advance" of a magnetic pickup with a hall on an
HEI module. Forget trying - it will not happen.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 22:05:55 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: HEI timing jump
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 22:05:23 -0400
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From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
dzorde wrote:
>> Use a signal amp with voltage controlled gain, a F-V converted will give
you
>> the increasing voltage as your rpm's increase, which in turn will bump
the
>> gain on your amp.  A neat little all hardware method.
>> Dan     dzorde@geocities.com
>> >Would it be possible to build a signal amplifier for hall
>> >effect switches that will increase module trigger voltage as
>> >rpm increases?  Seems like this is what you need.
>> >Shannen
>Still won't work. It is not the absolute voltage that mnatters. Digital
>at ANY voltage will not produce the advance. It is the RATE OF RIZE of
>the voltage that is critical. The ignitor triggers at a particular
>voltage. This voltage is reached ealier or later depending onspeed due
>to the distictive qualities of an inductive pickup. Don't matter what
>you do to a switch, and a HALL device is just a switch, you will not
>duplicate the "built in advance" of a magnetic pickup with a hall on an
>HEI module. Forget trying - it will not happen.
>         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
>                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                   Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca

How about flipping from a rising to a falling signal trigger, no ramping
just all or nothing.
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 22:19:36 1998
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Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 22:17:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: Steve N <sgn1@ra.msstate.edu>
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Subject: Re: Home Dyno/ 2d v 3d/ new list?
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> ...................so that we would not bother those that
> doesn't like reading all that stuff.  Unless of course everyone on this
> list likes it................

wouldn't make a difference to me to start a new list for these topic or to
keep them on this list (1 more list or 1 less in a pack of 10+ list,this
dont make much difference on the mass of messages i receive) but i sure do
like it !!

Alain Toussaint


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 22:42:07 1998
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Hi gang,

> > There's a software package called Home Dyno for $40 bucks that does 
> > this.

I have this package and use it.  The thing takes your vehicle data 
(weight, gear/final drive, coefficient of drag, etc) and combines this 
with a .WAV file that you record of your engine using an inductive pickup 
on a spark plug, to calculate engine power.

Though the horsepower figures given by the program seem to be lacking in 
accuracy, there is a good degree of precision (ie. consistency) between 
runs, and this has been tremendously helpful in doing things like tuning 
adjustable cam sprockets and seeing if removing the air filter really 
does help your engine make power.

For $40 and the cost of a timing light (to cut off the inductive pickup) 
I'd say it's a worthwhile expenditure for the home-hotrodder!

-Scott

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 22:42:08 1998
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From: Scott Croughwell <scott@outwest.net>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hi gang,

> > There's a software package called Home Dyno for $40 bucks that does 
> > this.

I have this package and use it.  The thing takes your vehicle data 
(weight, gear/final drive, coefficient of drag, etc) and combines this 
with a .WAV file that you record of your engine using an inductive pickup 
on a spark plug, to calculate engine power.

Though the horsepower figures given by the program seem to be lacking in 
accuracy, there is a good degree of precision (ie. consistency) between 
runs, and this has been tremendously helpful in doing things like tuning 
adjustable cam sprockets and seeing if removing the air filter really 
does help your engine make power.

For $40 and the cost of a timing light (to cut off the inductive pickup) 
I'd say it's a worthwhile expenditure for the home-hotrodder!

-Scott

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 23:14:36 1998
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>> >   6.  For the same reasons, I may need to remove the EGR.  Is this a
>> mistake???
>> 
>> No W.O.T power penalties, but part throttle ping and/or stumble may occur.
>> And of course, more codes that aren't easily defeatable.
>
>i would be nervous about doing that,your motor have (according to all my
>sources) 10:1 compression and according to the naisso web site,they even
>have 10.5:1 compression so unless you're going to coat the cylinder
>head,piston and take great care about anything that can play a role in
>detonation,i would not do that if i where you.
>
>Alain Toussaint
>
>p.s.the cylinder head are retain more heat than aluminium head too


I mentioned "no W.O.T power penalties" only because EGR isn't used while in
Power Enrichment mode...  But, at part throttle, you are right...  Iron
heads will accentuate the detonation potential with 10-ish:1 compression.
Hopefully, the PCM will deduct spark when it sees that EGR is not
operational.  I think this can be expected, from what I recall.

-Brock

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 23:16:04 1998
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Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 21:31:11 -0400
Subject: Re: high rpm "popping" sound
Message-ID: <19980406.230435.12662.0.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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I have the rev limiter in my Pro-Jection set at 5300 RPM.  Where is yours
set?  I have found that bouncing against the rev limiter sounds a bit
like a miss.  It will cut out for a fraction of a second, and cut back
in.  It'll keep repeating this until you let up on the throttle.

In your recording, you should see the injecter volume cutting in and out.

Ray Drouillard
'89 Grand Wagoneer with Holley Pro-Jection 4Di
(and lots of other stuff)


On Mon, 06 Apr 1998 14:18:54 -0500 Squash <mpc@genevaonline.com> writes:
>I was out 4-wheeling (yup, in the mud) sunday and noticed something. 
>This is my first high-rpm run with this truck/motor.  4500-5000 rpm, 454
>with holley projection, 268 cam, headers, alum intake, etc.  It sounded
>like an ignition miss.  I have a new accell blueprint HEI (electronic
>advance) with all new accell parts except the coil, which is probably
>100 years old.  Also running 34 degrees total ignition advance.  I
>recorded a run on the laptop, and analyzed it.  I could not see much of
>a pattern except that it only occurs over 4500 rpm.  The O2 almost the
>entire time was around 60 mV.  Normal cruising usually reads around 85
>mV.  Here's the question(s):
>
>Will the O2 read correctly under very heavy throttle (50% and up), and
>if so, does 60mV sound lean, and could my popping sound be from running
>lean?
>
>Could this be my ignition?  The only original part is the HEI coil.  The
>spark plugs are brand new and gapped according to the manual (can't
>remember what, tho).
>
>And lastly, could this be valve float?  I know that big-block chevrolets
>are known to do this, but i have never experienced it, so i don't know
>if it is or not!
>
>Thanks in advance for everyones help.
>-- 
>Andy Quaas
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 23:20:17 1998
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Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 23:23:08 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> dzorde wrote:
> >> Use a signal amp with voltage controlled gain, a F-V converted will give
> you
> >> the increasing voltage as your rpm's increase, which in turn will bump
> the
> >> gain on your amp.  A neat little all hardware method.
> >> Dan     dzorde@geocities.com
> >> >Would it be possible to build a signal amplifier for hall
> >> >effect switches that will increase module trigger voltage as
> >> >rpm increases?  Seems like this is what you need.
> >> >Shannen
> >Still won't work. It is not the absolute voltage that mnatters. Digital
> >at ANY voltage will not produce the advance. It is the RATE OF RIZE of
> >the voltage that is critical. The ignitor triggers at a particular
> >voltage. This voltage is reached ealier or later depending onspeed due
> >to the distictive qualities of an inductive pickup. Don't matter what
> >you do to a switch, and a HALL device is just a switch, you will not
> >duplicate the "built in advance" of a magnetic pickup with a hall on an
> >HEI module. Forget trying - it will not happen.
> >         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
> >                  E-Mail service is back to normal
>                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
> 
> How about flipping from a rising to a falling signal trigger, no ramping
> just all or nothing.
> Bruce

How? The module only works one way - it fires on the way up. The only
thing that will affect timing is the ramp, or rate of rise. Sorry.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr  6 23:55:23 1998
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Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 20:56:06 -0700
From: gt bradley <gt6@beachscene.com>
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Steve N wrote:

> > There's a software package called Home Dyno for $40 bucks that does
> > this.
>

<snip>

> Next I have some questions on 2d vs 3d.  Now from what I understand 2d
> is a system where two values are entered and one numebr pops out for the
> computer to make use of.  If this is true, this is a 2d system right:
>
> ftp://ftp.mr2.com/pub/geoff/mr2/sw20inj3.gif
>
> Or is it a 3d system, and they just do not show the 3rd axis, and just
> show the maximum vaules for the z?  I guess it could be both, it just
> depends on if the vaue for the z axis is variable.
>

This is a 3D graph,  two axis are shown, and the third is represented with
color,  Kind of like a topogragical map where you have longitude, latatude,
and elevation on a 2d piece of paper.  The plot is rotated, and no key is
given for the Z-axis,

Now maybe the 2 inputs to the system make it a 2D system, but the graph is a
3D graph.
GT


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 01:59:01 1998
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From: "mfwic" <raklinge@brain.uccs.edu>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Spare Stuff for 101
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 22:53:12 -0700
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I have access to a BP Micro programmer. It can read and program any PROM or
PLD
up to 28-pins. I would be happy to read/reprogram PROM's.
E-mail me at: raklinge@mail.uccs.edu

I am also building a programmer that uses the JTAG pins on PLD's larger
than 28-pins.
I will be using this on a regular basis in the fall semester.


Rich

----------
> From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Spare Stuff for 101
> Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 1:51 PM
> 
> Does any one have any prom burning equipment to donate to the
> programming project?
> Major helper in this wants to do more, but needs a burner software, and
> eraser. Gotta be able to do 2732A and the 128/256 style.
> 
> Also still have a couple of the free prom packs for folks doing bench
> testing with the ecms, just mail me.
> 
> Again Thanks
> Bruce    If ya wanna clue about how this is going last Sat CSH HQ
>               did 10Mb on net traffic..

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 02:22:23 1998
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Does anybody know a way to print the DFI base fuel map??

'86 Z28 350 DFI Richmond 6-speed
Robert Wilkinson
http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~rw



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 02:38:19 1998
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Sorry for the repeat, but what was a good product/supplier for that thermal
coating diy stuff.  Thanks in advance and sorry for the repeat.  This time I
listen better.

See ya,

Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 03:58:02 1998
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As for an actual angular shift, I can't see why not.  I'm pretty sure I have
seen amps that will allow you to do limited phase shifting via an external
voltage as well.  It would definitely be interesting if someone was to try it.

Dan     dzorde@geocities.com

>Dan
>
>The amp sounds interesting, but I wonder if you will have the angular 
>shift of the trigger voltage that you get with the reluctor.  I 
>suspect that the hall device works over a narrower range(crank 
>rotation) than the reluctor.  If anybody trys this, please publish 
>your results. 
>
>Bob McKnight
>Phx AZ
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 04:07:05 1998
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Please, also the actual name of the products as well, so that us unfortunate
souls on the other side of the world may be able to find our own supplier.

Dan     dzorde@geocities.com

>Sorry for the repeat, but what was a good product/supplier for that thermal
>coating diy stuff.  Thanks in advance and sorry for the repeat.  This time I
>listen better.
>
>See ya,
>
>Mike
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 06:19:11 1998
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>From what I just heard was 1-5ms for TBI, and 2-10 for Port.
>

Okay, thanks for that, what I could also use is the frequency of these
pulses, I heard that they should not be 'on' for more than 90% of the
time, is this true?  So at a 9ms pulse width at maximum flow I would
imagine that the minimum 'off' time would be 1ms.  Therefore my next
question is, what are the average spaces ( this may be a crap question )
between pulses at tick over and maximum revs... now I know that there is
probably no rule of thumb, all I am trying to do is get rough start up
figures so that the system has at least some data to start from.  My
thinking is that it is easier to modify an existing value, than to
create one from scratch from thin air.

Rob Humphris
>
>

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Subject: Haltech
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Just though I'd let those in question know, I got my Haltech from Carl
yesterday!

Everything looks great and I'll install it this weekend.

He shipped the computer the day my check arrived instead of waiting for
it to clear.

Carl;

Thanks for putting yourself out and helping us get a good deal!!!

BTW:  Does anyone know what the resistance of the trim control is?

-- 
Rob
MailTo:gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 08:31:17 1998
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References: <35292A95.248E@genevaonline.com> <19980406.230435.12662.0.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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My rev limiter is set at 6350 rpm.  Way too high, but far away from
where my problem is occuring.
-- 
Andy Quaas

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 08:34:58 1998
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From: MikeTurner@kemet.com (Mike Turner)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu (diy_efi)
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I have a Needham's EMP-20 and would be willing to burn any EPROM's needed.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 08:40:36 1998
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From: "Mike Ayres" <mcayres@UNIX.mcmsys.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Average fuel maps
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 07:44:17 -0500
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I would be interested. What do you want for them and would like to know
which type you have. Think the two piece is what I like.
Where is the stuff located??
Mike

----------
> From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
> To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'
> Subject: RE: Average fuel maps
> Date: Tuesday, April 07, 1998 5:16 AM
> 
> 
> >From what I just heard was 1-5ms for TBI, and 2-10 for Port.
> >
> 
> Okay, thanks for that, what I could also use is the frequency of these
> pulses, I heard that they should not be 'on' for more than 90% of the
> time, is this true?  So at a 9ms pulse width at maximum flow I would
> imagine that the minimum 'off' time would be 1ms.  Therefore my next
> question is, what are the average spaces ( this may be a crap question )
> between pulses at tick over and maximum revs... now I know that there is
> probably no rule of thumb, all I am trying to do is get rough start up
> figures so that the system has at least some data to start from.  My
> thinking is that it is easier to modify an existing value, than to
> create one from scratch from thin air.
> 
> Rob Humphris
> >
> >

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 08:50:00 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 20:53:44 -0400
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Subject: Re: Printing a fuel map from Calmap
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Just do a printscreen.


> Does anybody know a way to print the DFI base fuel map??
> 
> '86 Z28 350 DFI Richmond 6-speed
> Robert Wilkinson
> http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~rw
> 
> 
> 
> 
Randy Braun     rbraun@enter.net
91  GTA
82 Firebird

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 11:00:44 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Average fuel maps
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 11:00:07 -0400
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, April 07, 1998 7:59 AM
Subject: RE: Average fuel maps
>>From what I just heard was 1-5ms for TBI, and 2-10 for Port.
>Okay, thanks for that, what I could also use is the frequency of these
>pulses, I heard that they should not be 'on' for more than 90% of the
>time, is this true?  So at a 9ms pulse width at maximum flow I would
>imagine that the minimum 'off' time would be 1ms.  Therefore my next
>question is, what are the average spaces ( this may be a crap question )
>between pulses at tick over and maximum revs... now I know that there is
>probably no rule of thumb, all I am trying to do is get rough start up
>figures so that the system has at least some data to start from.  My
>thinking is that it is easier to modify an existing value, than to
>create one from scratch from thin air.
>
>Rob Humphris
>>
The TBI's fire alternately on ignition pulses.
The Ports fire once per crankshaft revolution.

The TBI's have other firing strategies for accleration, etc..
Bruce       


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 11:20:57 1998
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From: Zachary Zehnacker <zzehnack@stevens-tech.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: DFI open/closed loop problems
In-Reply-To: <35282C5D.26FBEC30@tufts.edu>
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On Sun, 5 Apr 1998, Andris Skulte wrote:

> degrees coolant, 750<rpm<2000, TPS<70%. I've been driving around, but it

  Is the 750<rpm<2000 setting right?  It is my understanding that these
vals are a hysterises area that keeps the DFI from constantly going in and
out of closed loop.  I believe that they should both be much lower. We
have both of ours set to below idle speed rpm (something like
400<rpm<600) and it seems to go into closed loop and work just fine.  We
haven't had ours very long, so someone else on the list should be able to
correct me if I am wrong.  

 		Zak



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 11:25:57 1998
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Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 11:25:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Zachary Zehnacker <zzehnack@stevens-tech.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Printing a fuel map from Calmap
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On Tue, 7 Apr 1998 rbraun@mail.enter.net wrote:

> Just do a printscreen.

	When I use printscreen, I get the outline of the grid and some of
the words on the outside of the grid, but I don't get any of the MAP
values.  I have found that copying the screen to the clipboard in
Windows95 works, however.  I then paste it into Adobe and invert the
colors.  It works, but it takes some time.  I haven't really looked into
the print screen problem to see if I can change some settings to get it to
work correctly though.  This is with version 6.32 if it makes a
difference.

	Zak



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Very simply, will a heated oxygen sensor read accurately over 50%
throttle?  If so, would 65 mV at full throttle be to lean?
-- 
Andy Quaas

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 12:22:48 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Printing a fuel map from Calmap
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> Just do a printscreen.
> 
> 
> > Does anybody know a way to print the DFI base fuel map??
> > 

Well, in the "edit file" mode, a print screen will print the base fuel map
screen background, but none of the values will show up in the boxes.  I
can't do it in the "edit ecu" mode b/c my car is not near my printer:)
Does your computer print out the entire map with a print screen in "edit
file" mode??  I am guessing it may be a compatibility problem with my
laptop and printer.

'86 Z28 350 DFI Richmond 6-speed
Robert Wilkinson
http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~rw



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 12:26:15 1998
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Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 12:26:24 -0400
From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: Re: DFI open/closed loop problems
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Zachary Zehnacker wrote:
> > degrees coolant, 750<rpm<2000, TPS<70%. I've been driving around, but it
> 
>   Is the 750<rpm<2000 setting right?  It is my understanding that these
> vals are a hysterises area that keeps the DFI from constantly going in and
> out of closed loop.  I believe that they should both be much lower. We
> have both of ours set to below idle speed rpm (something like
> 400<rpm<600) and it seems to go into closed loop and work just fine.  We
> haven't had ours very long, so someone else on the list should be able to
> correct me if I am wrong.

I've got the low closed loop setting at 750, and the idle is at 850 (it
idles around 875-900, though). The high limit is at 2000 rpms. From what
I have it set at, the DFI will go to open loop below 750, above 2000,
above 70% TPS, or below 120 degrees coolant (yes, it is F). Problem is
that it doesn't. I did reduce the fuel map to 65% of original, and now
at cruise, the o2's are actually jumping around, instead of being pegged
at 806mV. It still doesn't go into closed loop :p I'm going to keep
leaning it out till I get 3-400 mV at cruise. Since the DFI doesn't
control EGR, will I need to run less timing than before at cruise?
Later!

Andris

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 12:35:00 1998
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Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 12:35:13 -0400
From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: Re: O2 sensor function
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Squash wrote:
> Very simply, will a heated oxygen sensor read accurately over 50%
> throttle?  If so, would 65 mV at full throttle be to lean?

Umm... yes! :) Do you mean 650 mV? At 14.7 air:fuel, the o2 should read
around 500 mV, and when the computer is in closed loop, you should see
the o2s constantly jumping across 500 (maybe 200-700 range). 

Andris "the man of 1050 mV o2's" Skulte

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 12:42:25 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Programming 101
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 12:41:47 -0400
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Once again if you haven't read the opening pages please do so at
this time.

The first two tables we covered where spark, and fuel so in that same
light we'll continue.

  Gm has a feature for extra power ie for passing, and heavy load
conditions (also makes ya feel like you're going fast).  For some
applications they use a WOT enable. it adds timing, and fuel.  Most
notably on the heavier vehicles there seems to be a delay to this
feature, at times, and then at other times it doesn't seem as noticeable.
On the 747 there are a couple of parts to this.  One
is that they add fuel, and timing.  The other part is that there is a time
delay, and rpm bypass.  So that at times, say from idle when ya floor
it it takes a moment for it to seem like your really acclerating, and
from higher rpm there is almost no waiting.  Now again remember this
as we'll be stumbling around with this from time to time.
  Reading down from the spark table, we stumble across some
interesting numbers at 015E-0165, in hex they range from 06 to 0E.
Since we are looking for timing in this area,  if we convert 0E to Decimal
we get 14, divide by 256, and multiply by 90 and we get 5.
  This might be a good area for an amount of spark that is added
to an enrichment for WOT.
  OK we're going to look now for some fuel.  Hmm, well we'll look
like we did with the timing, where the fuel tables are.  Well like for
the spark that is added there is almost a constant amount of fuel
added, but since they don't want the engine to make too much top
end power, and the resulting engine damage they probably turn
off the fuel on one end of the scale.  So if ya look at the end of the
fuel area, ya see exactly that, again depending on what application,
it reads hex 64 for a few entries, and then the last few are 00.  So
we wind up at 03C7-03D7 as being the fuel enrichment for WOT.
  Varifing the above is just test driving a few proms with a scanner,
and the DIY O2 display.  Adding lots of timing, in the WOT timing area
will set a bunch of knock counts, and turning off the fuel makes the
car lame, and the O2 display looks noticeably leaner.  Again, just
do it for a few moments, ya don't want to risk any engine damage.
  Well, we've now got just enough knowledge to get into real trouble.
By running too much timing/too little fuel you can cause serious engine
trouble, always remember TOO little timing, and you buy spark plugs.  TOO
much timing and you buy all sorts of internal engine parts, ranging from
head gaskets, to exhaust valves, and pistons, so sneek
up on making tuning changes.  ALSO remember TOO much fuel, and
you waste gas, and buy spark plugs.  TOO little fuel, and it's just like
buying parts from too much timing.  IF you have any doubts take
small steps, and also reread the tuning pages, and stare at fuel, and
timing tables til they really make sense.  Also, be sure to wear a
Con Shaped Hat so you aren't interupted too often.
No worries mate
Bruce       Again if repling to this edit down.  Couple sentences quoted
                 is fine, not the whole text. TY


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 12:52:26 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: O2 sensor function
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 12:51:56 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Squash <mpc@genevaonline.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, April 07, 1998 12:36 PM
Subject: O2 sensor function


>Very simply, will a heated oxygen sensor read accurately over 50%
>throttle? 

Yes, but it's accuracy is just lean or rich.  Once properly tuned it
can be a "reference" for mixture.   You first need to know what the 
engine likes, ie 850mv.  Don't tune to a specific v, your engine might
like more or less.  Use it as an aid, not as proof positive, that you
are at x value AFR.

 If so, would 65 mV at full throttle be to lean?


I wouldn't run there with a BBC, on gasoline.  
 
>Andy Quaas
>
Cheers
Bruce       


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 13:04:44 1998
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Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 12:00:53 -0700
From: Steve N <sgn1@ra.msstate.edu>
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> This is a 3D graph,  two axis are shown, and the third is represented with
> color,  Kind of like a topogragical map where you have longitude, latatude,
> and elevation on a 2d piece of paper.  The plot is rotated, and no key is
> given for the Z-axis,

> Now maybe the 2 inputs to the system make it a 2D system, but the graph is a
> 3D graph.

I guess that is what I was trying to ask.  Do 2d systems have have only
2 inputs even though their graphs can look like a 3d?  Or is this what a
3d system is?  If this is true, has there ever been systems that allow
three variables to calculate the fuel needed?  i.e. a variable for each
axis, x,y, and z.

Steve N.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 13:05:16 1998
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From: "Bernie Jacobsen" <bcjac@ix.netcom.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Question on header coating?
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 12:59:58 -0400
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Ceramic coating for headers:

Most coatings I have looked in to use proprietary names.

 Micro Coat uses 'Cermakrome' or 'TRR' ceramic coatings, some are good to
2000 degF
They are coating my BIG headers for $170.00 + $7.50 hazmat
http://www.wco.com/~sc7500/people.html

Jet Hot  uses their name (JETHOT 1300, JETHOT 2000) for their coatings
WWW.JET-HOT.COM
For my headers they wanted $395.00 to coat them with 2000 deg F ceramic. A
little rich for my blood!



There is also HTC
Web Page??




Also, the material is important, but the even application will keep it in
place.  JETHOT and MicroCoat use 'flowcoat' for the ID to get it uniform.
How uniform is it? I have no idea, but I know it's better than I could do.

There is also 'apply it yourself' stuff available from Summit and Jegs, Both
have web sites.



I'm no expert, but I just went through it with my headers.
Hope this helps,

^Bernie






-----Original Message-----
From: A70Duster <A70Duster@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, April 07, 1998 2:47 AM
Subject: Question on header coating?


>Sorry for the repeat, but what was a good product/supplier for that thermal
>coating diy stuff.  Thanks in advance and sorry for the repeat.  This time
I
>listen better.
>
>See ya,
>
>Mike
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 13:37:01 1998
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yup- 650 mV!  I lost a zero there!  65 mV would be very lean, indeed!  
-- 
Andy Quaas

Andris Skulte wrote:

> Umm... yes! :) Do you mean 650 mV? At 14.7 air:fuel, the o2 should read
> around 500 mV, and when the computer is in closed loop, you should see
> the o2s constantly jumping across 500 (maybe 200-700 range).
> 
> Andris "the man of 1050 mV o2's" Skulte

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 13:39:23 1998
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Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 13:39:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Zachary Zehnacker <zzehnack@stevens-tech.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: DFI open/closed loop problems
In-Reply-To: <352A53B0.8B465A0F@tufts.edu>
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On Tue, 7 Apr 1998, Andris Skulte wrote:

> idles around 875-900, though). The high limit is at 2000 rpms. From what
> I have it set at, the DFI will go to open loop below 750, above 2000,
> above 70% TPS, or below 120 degrees coolant (yes, it is F). Problem is

	I don't think that the 2000 rpm high limit is really an upper 
limit for closed loop operation.  I believe that the high limit is the RPM
that much be reached before the DFI will switch into closed loop (while
RPM is increasing) and the low limit is the RPM that much be reached
(while RPM is decreasing) before the DFI goes to open loop.  Having two
values just keeps the DFI from constantly switching back and forth between
open and closed loop like it would if there was only 1 RPM limit for
closed loop operation.  If my understanding is correct, your setup would
have to go up to 2000 RPM before closed loop operation would begin.  It
would then stay in closed loop until it dropped below 750 rpm.  If it did
drop below 750 and come out of closed loop it would then require the
engine to reach 2000 RPM again before going back into closed loop.  I hope
someone will correct me if I am wrong in my understanding of these two
limit settings.  The manual isn't very clear about them.

   I also don't think I remember seeing anywhere that the DFI actually
tells you that you are in open or closed loop.  The only way that I have
found is to see if the oxygen sensor is correcting the mixture (on the
'V' screen) or when the bar on the fuel map screen comes on to show you
what your mixture would be if the unit were in open loop.

   I think your 30 lb injectors might be the reason you are having to
lean out the maps so much.  I think the stock maps are usually setup for
18-20 lb injectors.

        Zak




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> idles around 875-900, though). The high limit is at 2000 rpms. From what
> I have it set at, the DFI will go to open loop below 750, above 2000,
> above 70% TPS, or below 120 degrees coolant (yes, it is F). Problem is

I think you may misunderstand what the high limit does (I did when I was
setting mine up).  It is the rpm at which the engine must be *above* in
order to go into *open* loop.  If the engine rpm is between the low and
high cl rpm limits, and the ecu is configured for closed loop operation,
and the temperature is abovce the limit, then you *are* in *closed*
loop.  (closed loop can be identified by a toggling a/f bar, assuming your
predefined pulsewidths are close enough for the o2 to correct).

'86 Z28 350 DFI Richmond 6-speed
Robert Wilkinson
http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~rw



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 14:05:11 1998
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From: mdill@lsil.com (Mike Dillon)
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, nacelp@bright.net, ECMnut@aol.com,
        Tmatthe1@worldnet.att.net
Subject: PROM holders last call.
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  Hey Guy's,

	It does not look like there is enough demand on the PROM 
  carriers to generate an order. So far I have requests from three
  people for a total of 125, I could use about 25, leaving about 
  100 uncommited.
  (Reiterate for those on the list: Robinson-Nugent PROM carriers 
   part # PRC-246-E3 used in GM and ?? ECU's to hold the 24 pin
   PROMS. Min order need is 250 and I was quoted about 25 cents/part
   give or take a few cents, with 3-6 week lead time.) 
 
   We'll see if shaking the trees one more time will get a few more 
   commitments. 
   

  Mike D. 
  

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 14:50:34 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: More 808,165 questions
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 14:50:00 -0400
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Does anyone know of 6-8 cylinder applications using these ecms 
that are TBI..  Would said person happen to have a bin of said
application?.
TIA 
Bruce


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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Proms
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 14:53:57 -0400
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Cap'tn there be proms.  Duh, gotta figure out some packaging,
but they are here.  So for those of you who ordered them I need
your snail mail addresses.
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 14:57:56 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DFI open/closed loop problems
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 14:57:25 -0400
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From: Zachary Zehnacker <zzehnack@stevens-tech.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>

On Tue, 7 Apr 1998, Andris Skulte wrote:
>
>values just keeps the DFI from constantly switching back and forth between
open and closed loop like it would if there was only 1 RPM limit for closed
loop operation.  If my understanding is correct, your setup would have to go
up to 2000 RPM before closed loop operation would begin.  It would then stay
in closed loop until it dropped below 750 rpm.  If it did drop below 750 and
come out of closed loop it would then require the engine to reach 2000 RPM
again before going back into closed loop.  I hope
>someone will correct me if I am wrong in my understanding of these two
>limit settings.  The manual isn't very clear about them.
>
>   I also don't think I remember seeing anywhere that the DFI actually
>tells you that you are in open or closed loop.  The only way that I have
>found is to see if the oxygen sensor is correcting the mixture (on the
>'V' screen) or when the bar on the fuel map screen comes on to show you
>what your mixture would be if the unit were in open loop.
>
>   I think your 30 lb injectors might be the reason you are having to
>lean out the maps so much.  I think the stock maps are usually setup for
>18-20 lb injectors.
>
>        Zak

Also makes perfect sense for an open loop idle (for big cams), and to
prevent stalling on overrun..
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 18:15:00 1998
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> 	I don't think that the 2000 rpm high limit is really an upper 
> limit for closed loop operation.  I believe that the high limit is the RPM
> that much be reached before the DFI will switch into closed loop (while
> RPM is increasing) and the low limit is the RPM that much be reached
> (while RPM is decreasing) before the DFI goes to open loop.  Having two

You may be right, but I don't remember seeing anything in the manuals
about rpm increasing or decreasing.  I could be wrong in pulling this from
memory, but I am pretty sure that the high limit is a limit that must be
exceeded before the DFI will switch to closed loop.  My guess at the
purpose of this would be that at very low rpms, you would want a 14.7:1
a/f ratio, and implementing that limit would allow that, while also
allowing you to have control of the CL throttle limit at higher rpm's.

'86 Z28 350 Richmond 6-speed
Robert Wilkinson
http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~rw



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 18:59:49 1998
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Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 18:59:54 -0400
From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: Re: DFI open/closed loop problems
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Thanks guys :) I've got tons of responses explaining the real way the HL
and CL works for closed loops. I changed the HL down to 1050 and CL to
875 since it idles better in open loop. The car idles noticeably
smoother at 1.74ms than 1.66, and when the DFI takes out even more to
get the 02s down, well... doesn't idle as well. Thanks again :)

A.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 20:03:09 1998
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Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 16:13:02 +0000
From: Ron Tyler <dcmckenna@worldnet.att.net>
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All interested,

    I cleared my codes and ran the car for 25 sec (the fan turns on at
28 seconds consistantly). I shut it down and read the codes. Not one
code. I restarted and ran untill the fan kicked on and quickly shut it
down. Checked codes. All aformentioned codes existed. I cleared codes
again and unplugged the MAF. Restarted the car again. 5 seconds later
the fan activated. I shut the car off and checked codes. MAF code *ONLY* 

-- 
Ron & Stephanie Tyler
'72 LT1/T56 240Z
http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 20:05:59 1998
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Subject: PROM Carrier Buy is a go !!! (fwd)
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu (DIY EFI List)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 17:05:55 -0700 (PDT)
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Forwarded message:
> From orin@WOLFENET.com  Tue Apr  7 15:59:50 1998
> Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 17:58:52 -0500
> From: mdill@lsil.com (Mike Dillon)
> Message-Id: <199804072258.RAA17751@mms10>
> To: mweber@interaccess.com, ECMnut@aol.com, nacelp@bright.net,
>         Tmatthe1@worldnet.att.net, diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: PROM Carrier Buy is a go !!!


> Hey Guy's 

> 	Mr Weber, put us over the top, I will call the distributor
>  tomarrow, and order them. I will get the exact price and update on
>  delivery.

>  Mike Weber     100 ish (FSJ mail list !!!)
>  Mike Dillon     25 ish
>  Bruce Plecan    50 
>  Mike V.         50      
>  Thomas Matthews 25 
>               --------
>                 250 ish   

>  Cool, I will email when I have more data.

>  These are Robinson-Nugent PRC-246-E3 PROM Carriers (Not the socket just the 
>  PROM carrier). they are in the 20-30 cent/each range on price, and delivery  
>  is about 3-6 weeks. 

> Mike D. 

> > From owner-fsj-list@unix.off-road.com Tue Apr  7 17:23 CDT 1998
> > From mweber@interaccess.com Tue Apr  7 17:25 CDT 1998
> > Return-Path: <mweber@interaccess.com>
> > Received: from mhbs.lsil.com by mms10 (SMI-8.6/SMI-SVR4)
> > 	id RAA15653; Tue, 7 Apr 1998 17:25:26 -0500
> > Received: by mhbs.lsil.com; Tue, 7 Apr 1998 15:21:45 -0700
> >   (8.6.12/IDA-1.6 for <mdill@lsil.com>); Tue, 7 Apr 1998 15:17:57 -0700
> > Received: from clavin.interaccess.com (clavin.interaccess.com [207.70.126.132]) by mail2.lsil.com with ESMTP id PAA11698
> >   (8.6.12/IDA-1.6 for <mdill@lsil.com>); Tue, 7 Apr 1998 15:17:57 -0700
> > Received: from mweber.interaccess.com (d188.nhe.interaccess.com [206.183.79.188]) by clavin.interaccess.com (8.8.5/8.7.5) with SMTP id RAA03499 for <mdill@lsil.com>; Tue, 7 Apr 1998 17:19:15 -0500 (CDT)
> > X-From: Umail2 Tue Apr  7 15:21 PDT 1998
> > >Received: from clavin.interaccess.com (clavin.interaccess.com [207.70.126.132]) by mail2.lsil.com with ESMTP id PAA11698
> >> >  Mike D. 
> > >  
> > Mike,
> > 
> > I could use about 100 of them if it would help out.  Let me know.
> > 
> > W(847) 391-0626
> > H(847) 392-3037
> > 
> > 
> > Mike Weber
> > mweber@interaccess.com
> > 
> > 


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 20:37:03 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Proms
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 17:35:56 -0700
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Are you talking about 2732A's?

I should have gotten in on it.

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, April 07, 1998 12:44 PM
Subject: Proms


>Cap'tn there be proms.  Duh, gotta figure out some packaging,
>but they are here.  So for those of you who ordered them I need
>your snail mail addresses.
>Bruce
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 20:39:55 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 17:38:59 -0700
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Any chance you've got the fan relay and fuel pump relay swapped?

I had a similar problem where the 730 ECM uses the MAFS input for Vats (you
can't have a MAFS system and Vats at the same time.) The Mafs would output
30Hz periodically and start the car. That one took awhile to figure out!
That's similar isn't it?


TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Tyler <dcmckenna@worldnet.att.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, April 07, 1998 5:35 PM
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question


>All interested,
>
>    I cleared my codes and ran the car for 25 sec (the fan turns on at
>28 seconds consistantly). I shut it down and read the codes. Not one
>code. I restarted and ran untill the fan kicked on and quickly shut it
>down. Checked codes. All aformentioned codes existed. I cleared codes
>again and unplugged the MAF. Restarted the car again. 5 seconds later
>the fan activated. I shut the car off and checked codes. MAF code *ONLY*
>
>--
>Ron & Stephanie Tyler
>'72 LT1/T56 240Z
>http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 22:06:05 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Edelbrock 1227747 to TPI Conversion
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 22:05:35 -0400
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Has anyone seen one of these run, or know any of the details,
other than, the below?.
  Edelbrock makes a conversion for putting a TPI on Pick ups with 
a 747 ecm, and uses the stock ecm, with a prom change.  The
TPI is based on a single plane type carb manifold, and looks to use
the stock Throttle Body, with the injectors removed for an air valve.
  Don't suppose anyone has a bin of the prom?, or could get one?.
TIA
Bruce  


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 22:40:18 1998
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Please tell me what I must do to cancel this subsciption.


                         ktretter@i1.net


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr  7 22:45:08 1998
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From: "A.HOLLEY" <holley@zeta.org.au>
To: "'DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: New Member
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 12:42:47 +-1000
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Just a short note to introduce myself to your group.

My name is Andrew Holley, I am an Australian Living in Sydney Aus.
I am a motor mechanic by trade and a member of the Royal Australian Air Force. I also have had training in electronics .

I drive a 1977 Jaguar XJ-S V12 with the old Bosch D jetronic injection.
I know this is "barely" technology but I am still interested in getting the best out of it. I have done the easy mods like cold air induction and a variable resistor in series with the coolant temp sensor. But am always on the look out for any other mods that people may have come across to squeeze a bit more life out of the old girl.

So if any one can help, would be very happy to hear from them.

Look forward to being part of the group.

Andrew Holley.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 01:44:15 1998
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Try putting a scope on the tacho signal to the computer, its possible the
signal starts to get noisy and the computer suddenly gets extra pulses and
actually hits the rev limiter, despite you not even being close to the
limiter value.  

At our last event a D-type jag had this problem, at 4300 rpm it sounded like
it was sitting on the rev limiter.  Turned out his crank trigger signal
(magnetic) was getting too large in amplitude and it was causing the
computer to mis-read the true rpm, told him to go back to the people that
installed his system and get them to install a filter circuit on the tacho
line.  Guess I'll find out at the next event if I cured his problem, I would
think so as I initially had this problem on my own car with the chev HEI.

Dan     dzorde@geocities.com

>My rev limiter is set at 6350 rpm.  Way too high, but far away from
>where my problem is occuring.
>-- 
>Andy Quaas
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 04:43:04 1998
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From: "M&D" <91coupe@bellsouth.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Request for ECU Info
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 04:48:07 -0400
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Does anyone here have any data on the Bosch L-Motronic systems? That is what
I believe the RX-7's have. I am interested in doing two things: removing the
fuel cut under high boost, and extending the fuel maps. Any ideas?

Michael Harrington
91coupe@bellsouth.net
91 RX-7 Coupe "Pearl" w/ some mods
88 RX-7 T2 "Beast" sitting in carport :(
N3WJE Technician+ Ham



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 05:13:22 1998
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From: Terry Sare <Terry_Sare@dell.com>
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At the risk of much laughter, what about combining a RC circuit with the F-V
converter. Replace the resister with a FET and control the FET resistance with
the F-V. As your freq. increases, the FET resistance decrease and the voltage
goes up faster.
Given that my memory is somewhat fossilized -- this may be the wrong approach
but you can control the rate of rise in analog circuits. Of course, you can also
take a PIC, count the pulses (RPM), and generate the output pulse, delayed by
some X amount based upon the RPM. No analog!!
Oh well, back to sleep.
ts

dzorde wrote:
>
> Use a signal amp with voltage controlled gain, a F-V converted will give you
> the increasing voltage as your rpm's increase, which in turn will bump the
> gain on your amp.  A neat little all hardware method.
>
> Dan     dzorde@geocities.com
>
> >Would it be possible to build a signal amplifier for hall
> >effect switches that will increase module trigger voltage as
> >rpm increases?  Seems like this is what you need.
> >
> >Shannen
> >
Still won't work. It is not the absolute voltage that mnatters. Digital
at ANY voltage will not produce the advance. It is the RATE OF RIZE of
the voltage that is critical. The ignitor triggers at a particular
voltage. This voltage is reached ealier or later depending onspeed due
to the distictive qualities of an inductive pickup. Don't matter what
you do to a switch, and a HALL device is just a switch, you will not
duplicate the "built in advance" of a magnetic pickup with a hall on an
HEI module. Forget trying - it will not happen.
--
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 05:17:20 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Average fuel maps
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 10:14:51 +0100
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Thanks for the info Bruce, but I must say it has me a little perplexed
now....

TBI
1-5ms on every ignition pulse ( 2 crank revolutions ) 

Port
2-10ms on every crank rotation

This would mean that the TBI system gets a quater of the fuel that the
Port system gets.

Now remember that you are talking to someone who yesterday left work,
drove 50miles for an appointment, which was actually for tomorrow... But
this does not seem right to me!  Only if smaller injectors are used for
Port injection, would this work.

Rob Humphris

>

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 09:36:17 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 21:40:23 -0400
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Subject: Re: Printing a fuel map from Calmap
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printscreen does not work ( properly if at all)  in W95.  Restart in 
ms dos mode and then run calmap, see if that works.

> 
> > Just do a printscreen.
> 
> 	When I use printscreen, I get the outline of the grid and some of
> the words on the outside of the grid, but I don't get any of the MAP
> values.  I have found that copying the screen to the clipboard in
> Windows95 works, however.  I then paste it into Adobe and invert the
> colors.  It works, but it takes some time.  I haven't really looked into
> the print screen problem to see if I can change some settings to get it to
> work correctly though.  This is with version 6.32 if it makes a
> difference.
> 
> 	Zak
> 
> 
> 
> 
Randy Braun     rbraun@enter.net
91  GTA
82 Firebird

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 09:41:23 1998
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Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 21:45:31 -0400
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Subject: Re: DFI open/closed loop problems
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The below is correct...

> 	I don't think that the 2000 rpm high limit is really an upper 
> limit for closed loop operation.  I believe that the high limit is the RPM
> that much be reached before the DFI will switch into closed loop (while
> RPM is increasing) and the low limit is the RPM that much be reached
> (while RPM is decreasing) before the DFI goes to open loop.  Having two
> values just keeps the DFI from constantly switching back and forth between
> open and closed loop like it would if there was only 1 RPM limit for
> closed loop operation.  If my understanding is correct, your setup would
> have to go up to 2000 RPM before closed loop operation would begin.  It
> would then stay in closed loop until it dropped below 750 rpm.  If it did
> drop below 750 and come out of closed loop it would then require the
> engine to reach 2000 RPM again before going back into closed loop.  I hope
> someone will correct me if I am wrong in my understanding of these two
> limit settings.  The manual isn't very clear about them.
> 
>
Randy Braun     rbraun@enter.net
91  GTA
82 Firebird

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 09:51:16 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 21:55:21 -0400
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Subject: Re: Edelbrock 1227747 to TPI Conversion
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I've been thinking of getting one, this will keep my "new" '89 truck 
emmissions legal, as oppossed to moving the Accel system from my '77 
to my '89.  I do know a guy that put the Edelbrock package on his 
4.3L S-10 Blazer although this is not port, I may be able to talk him 
into pulling his chip and letting me read it. Let me know if 
interested.

> Has anyone seen one of these run, or know any of the details,
> other than, the below?.
>   Edelbrock makes a conversion for putting a TPI on Pick ups with 
> a 747 ecm, and uses the stock ecm, with a prom change.  The
> TPI is based on a single plane type carb manifold, and looks to use
> the stock Throttle Body, with the injectors removed for an air valve.
>   Don't suppose anyone has a bin of the prom?, or could get one?.
> TIA
> Bruce  
> 
> 
> 
Randy Braun     rbraun@enter.net
91  GTA
82 Firebird

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 12:28:39 1998
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Subject: ATTN Tom McCabe
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 12:09:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <c=US%a=_%p=Indigo_Active_Vi%l=CRIANLARICH-980407101633Z-699@crianlarich.indigo-avs.com> from "Robert Humphris" at Apr 7, 98 11:16:33 am
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I got your message about the SBCs
I cannot find my original contact info for the source
The message got deleted

as soon as I find you about the SBCs will let you know

Clive 



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 13:20:20 1998
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From: "Matthew B. Watts" <mwatts@facility.cs.utah.edu>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Printing a fuel map from Calmap
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 11:45:24 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From: rbraun@mail.enter.net <rbraun@mail.enter.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, April 08, 1998 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: Printing a fuel map from Calmap


> printscreen does not work ( properly if at all)  in W95.  Restart in
> ms dos mode and then run calmap, see if that works.


Had a similar problem with the PAFZ software for the electromotive
TEC II unit.  Just hit F8 when you get the "Starting Windows 95" prompt
and bring the PC up in the "Command Prompt" mode.  I had to do this
on an older 486 laptop to get data logging to work reliably.  It seems
that the overhead of Win95 tended to bog down the serial port enough
to loose sync on occasion.  It's a little bit of a hassle, but does get
around the unwanted glitches having Win95 in full control of the
system.


Matt
_________






From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 13:25:04 1998
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Subject: Re: PROM Carrier Buy is a go !!! (fwd)
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu (DIY EFI List)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 10:25:02 -0700 (PDT)
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I wasn't the original sender, I had forwarded a message that was addressed to
the list owner, not the list:

> Sorry..I must have missed all this....are you talking about the GM type PROM carrier...the type that is 66 pin in 2 rows that takes the EPROM and 2 PALs' and has a clip on lid ??

> If these are what you are talking about I'm keen...maybe a 100 as well...

> Please reply ASAP thanks 

> Grant Gatenby


> > > Hey Guy's 
> > 
> > > 	Mr Weber, put us over the top, I will call the distributor
> > >  tomarrow, and order them. I will get the exact price and update on
> > >  delivery.
> > 
> > >  Mike Weber     100 ish (FSJ mail list !!!)
> > >  Mike Dillon     25 ish
> > >  Bruce Plecan    50 
> > >  Mike V.         50      
> > >  Thomas Matthews 25 
> > >               --------
> > >                 250 ish   
> > 
> > >  Cool, I will email when I have more data.
> > 
> > >  These are Robinson-Nugent PRC-246-E3 PROM Carriers (Not the socket just the 
> > >  PROM carrier). they are in the 20-30 cent/each range on price, and delivery  
> > >  is about 3-6 weeks. 
> > 
> > > Mike D. 
> > 
> > > > From owner-fsj-list@unix.off-road.com Tue Apr  7 17:23 CDT 1998
> > > > From mweber@interaccess.com Tue Apr  7 17:25 CDT 1998
> > > > Return-Path: <mweber@interaccess.com>
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> > > >   (8.6.12/IDA-1.6 for <mdill@lsil.com>); Tue, 7 Apr 1998 15:17:57 -0700
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> > > > >Received: from clavin.interaccess.com (clavin.interaccess.com [207.70.126.132]) by mail2.lsil.com with ESMTP id PAA11698
> > > >> >  Mike D. 
> > > > >  
> > > > Mike,
> > > > 
> > > > I could use about 100 of them if it would help out.  Let me know.
> > > > 
> > > > W(847) 391-0626
> > > > H(847) 392-3037
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > Mike Weber
> > > > mweber@interaccess.com
> > > > 
> > > > 


> ------------------------------------------------------
> Get free personalized email at http://four11.iname.com


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 16:04:46 1998
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Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 15:04:26 -0500
From: mdill@lsil.com (Mike Dillon)
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, nacelp@bright.net, ECMnut@aol.com,
        Tmatthe1@worldnet.att.net, mweber@interaccess.com,
        MikeTurner@kemet.com, scicior@uswest.com
Subject: PROM Carriers are ordered
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Hey Guy's

	The carriers, have been ordered.
 Here is the list of people who have requested them and the number 
 they ordered, if there are any errors let me know.

1) "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>          50
2)  Mike V   -> From: ECMnut <ECMnut@aol.com>  50
3) Thomas Matthews <Tmatthe1@worldnet.att.net> 25
4) Mike Weber mweber@interaccess.com          100 ish
5) MikeTurner@kemet.com (Mike Turner)       25-50 
6) Steven Ciciora <scicior@uswest.com>         25 ish
7) Mike Dillon mdill@lsil.com                  25 ish
                                         
I ordered 350 of them so we should be covered, with a few left over. 
 
   (Reiterate for those on the list: Robinson-Nugent PROM carriers 
    part # PRC-246-E3 used in GM and ?? ECU's to hold the 24 pin
    PROMS. Min order need is 250 and I was quoted about 25 cents/part
    give or take a few cents, with 3-6 week lead time.) This is 
    just the "clip" that holds the PROM not including the socket
    that is soldered to the board. 
 
   Mike D. 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 16:12:43 1998
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From: mdill@lsil.com (Mike Dillon)
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: PROM Carrier Buy-  Grant Gatenby 
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Hi Grant, 

	Sorry no it is not. Read the other posts for full discription.
        I think it is what you refer to as the "clip on the lid".
   
Mike D

> From diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu Wed Apr  8 14:44 CDT 1998
> I wasn't the original sender, I had forwarded a message that was addressed to
> the list owner, not the list:
> 
> > Sorry..I must have missed all this....are you talking about the GM type PROM carrier...the type that is 66 pin in 2 rows that takes the EPROM and 2 PALs' and has a clip on lid ??
> 
> > If these are what you are talking about I'm keen...maybe a 100 as well...
> 
> > Please reply ASAP thanks 
> 
> > Grant Gatenby
> 
> 
> > > > Hey Guy's 
> > > 
> > > > 	Mr Weber, put us over the top, I will call the distributor
> > > >  tomarrow, and order them. I will get the exact price and update on
> > > >  delivery.
> > > 
> > > >  Mike Weber     100 ish (FSJ mail list !!!)
> > > >  Mike Dillon     25 ish
> > > >  Bruce Plecan    50 
> > > >  Mike V.         50      
> > > >  Thomas Matthews 25 
> > > >               --------
> > > >                 250 ish   
> > > 
> > > >  Cool, I will email when I have more data.
> > > 
> > > >  These are Robinson-Nugent PRC-246-E3 PROM Carriers (Not the socket just the 
> > > >  PROM carrier). they are in the 20-30 cent/each range on price, and delivery  
> > > >  is about 3-6 weeks. 
> > > 
> > > > Mike D. 
> > > 
> > > > > From owner-fsj-list@unix.off-road.com Tue Apr  7 17:23 CDT 1998
> > > > > From mweber@interaccess.com Tue Apr  7 17:25 CDT 1998
> > > > > Return-Path: <mweber@interaccess.com>
> > > > > Received: from mhbs.lsil.com by mms10 (SMI-8.6/SMI-SVR4)
> > > > > 	id RAA15653; Tue, 7 Apr 1998 17:25:26 -0500
> > > > > Received: by mhbs.lsil.com; Tue, 7 Apr 1998 15:21:45 -0700
> > > > >   (8.6.12/IDA-1.6 for <mdill@lsil.com>); Tue, 7 Apr 1998 15:17:57 -0700
> > > > > Received: from clavin.interaccess.com (clavin.interaccess.com [207.70.126.132]) by mail2.lsil.com with ESMTP id PAA11698
> > > > >   (8.6.12/IDA-1.6 for <mdill@lsil.com>); Tue, 7 Apr 1998 15:17:57 -0700
> > > > > Received: from mweber.interaccess.com (d188.nhe.interaccess.com [206.183.79.188]) by clavin.interaccess.com (8.8.5/8.7.5) with SMTP id RAA03499 for <mdill@lsil.com>; Tue, 7 Apr 1998 17:19:15 -0500 (CDT)
> > > > > X-From: Umail2 Tue Apr  7 15:21 PDT 1998
> > > > > >Received: from clavin.interaccess.com (clavin.interaccess.com [207.70.126.132]) by mail2.lsil.com with ESMTP id PAA11698
> > > > >> >  Mike D. 
> > > > > >  
> > > > > Mike,
> > > > > 
> > > > > I could use about 100 of them if it would help out.  Let me know.
> > > > > 
> > > > > W(847) 391-0626
> > > > > H(847) 392-3037
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > Mike Weber
> > > > > mweber@interaccess.com
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> 
> 
> > ------------------------------------------------------
> > Get free personalized email at http://four11.iname.com
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 16:27:22 1998
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Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 16:24:10 -0400
From: bailey@netquest.com (Bailey, Robert B.)
Organization: Bailey Engineering Inc.
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To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Printing DFI maps
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You must type 'graphics' and hit enter before loading calmap.

This loads memory resident program GRAPHICS.COM which handles
print-screens from CGA graphics mode.  The dos help system can 
provide additional details about how to use GRAPHICS.COM


Bob Bailey
Bailey Engineering

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 17:38:31 1998
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From: Robert Wilkinson <rw@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Printing a fuel map from Calmap
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> printscreen does not work ( properly if at all)  in W95.  Restart in 
> ms dos mode and then run calmap, see if that works.
> 

I have a 386 running just dos, and I still have the exact same problem
mentioned below.... so I don't think it is a Win95 problem.

> > 	When I use printscreen, I get the outline of the grid and some of
> > the words on the outside of the grid, but I don't get any of the MAP
> > values.  I have found that copying the screen to the clipboard in

'86 Z28 350 DFI Richmond 6-speed
Robert Wilkinson
http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~rw



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 17:46:08 1998
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From: Robert Wilkinson <rw@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu,
        Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: Re: DFI open/closed loop problems
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Whoops!!  I goofed up.  One condition mentioned in my previous post listed
below is that the a/f bar is not there at all.  When this happens, it is
*open* loop, not closed loop.


> Robert Wilkinson wrote:
> > 2nd, how do you know it's in open loop??  The only way I know of to
> > determine that is to see if the A/F bar is toggling or not.  There are 4
> > possible conditions:
> > 1: bar is there, but doesnt toggle;  means way too rich.
> > 2: bar is not there at all; means it is in closed loop.
> > 3:  bar is on right side of 14.7; means it's too lean.
> > 4:  bar is toggling to the left of 14.7, means you're values are good in
> > that area (for cruising and light throttle).

'86 Z28 350 DFI Richmond 6-speed
Robert Wilkinson
http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~rw



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 20:00:00 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Return of the diy_EGOmeter
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 17:00:31 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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Hey Maties.

Didja miss me? Hee. Yeah, ya know what they say, "absence makes the
heart grow fungus", or sumpin like at.

Anyway, I was s'posed to phone home more brain surgery results on ole
UEGO, but then a historic aviation event delayed it, and now I'm
starring in a live episode of Invasion of the Viral Body Snatchers.
Sigh.

Anyway, I DO have some progress to report. I've just about got the proto
for the EGOmeter wired (perfect for convalescing), and have even that
trick gizmo Frank found in the NTK box built in, where it protects from
pumping the oxygen ion cell (geez, do yous guys remember any of this;
seems like eons, only been couple weeks, tempus foogit, eh?) until the
O2 measurement cell has warmed and made a pass through stoich on it's
way to really-lean-cuz-it's-in-open-air. This seemed better/more snazzy
than the Horiba simple time delay of 100secs. But both probably would
work equally well, I guess. By using the NTK scheme, if you power the
meter off and then on again, you don't wait the extra 100secs, cuz since
the sensor's warmed up already, it immediately gets through stoich, and
poof, you're up and running. Frank tested the NTK this way too, and that
IS how it works; no delays if the sensor is already warm.

Speaking of other delays I have to note, is that Barrett did put me in
contact with his O2 Meter guy who's built them before, and from what
I've seen he really does know his stuff; just that I haven't had time to
strike up the dialog just yet and compare notes. But it's a comin,
honest engine. Give me another week before you tar and feather me for
dragging my virus-infested butt. Whimper. Man how can such tiny lil
critters make you feel like sucha pieceOyou-know-what.

Gar-flu-gel-nose (sounds more musical if you say it faster)


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 22:07:08 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Proms+things  Pro 101
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 22:06:37 -0400
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Well folks, in appreciation for the help I've received, and for the folks
that I can never repay for their help, I've decided to send out all the
chips, no charge.  
  I missed the Post Office today, and there are two packages that
I got to figure out packaging for, but all the others will hit the mail
tomorrow.  
  In yesterdays post there may be a error that is under review, and
another that I consider to some degree a point of veiw.  In the fuel
area, I mentioned that they probably turned the fuel off to keep from
over reving the engine, and it's been also pointed out that do to the
engine limited breathing, maintaining the fuel flow isn't nessecary.
  
   There are a few folks that perfer to remain unnamed that have really
made this happen, and I'd like the list in general to know how much I
appreciate their efforts.
Sincerely
Bruce  


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 22:21:44 1998
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Subject: RE: Average fuel maps
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I think the TBI injectors are much bigger, like 2 or 3 times.

Dan     dzorde@geocities.com

>Thanks for the info Bruce, but I must say it has me a little perplexed
>now....
>
>TBI
>1-5ms on every ignition pulse ( 2 crank revolutions ) 
>
>Port
>2-10ms on every crank rotation
>
>This would mean that the TBI system gets a quater of the fuel that the
>Port system gets.
>
>Now remember that you are talking to someone who yesterday left work,
>drove 50miles for an appointment, which was actually for tomorrow... But
>this does not seem right to me!  Only if smaller injectors are used for
>Port injection, would this work.
>
>Rob Humphris
>
>>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr  8 23:23:21 1998
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From: Paul Ruschman <prusch@ix.netcom.com>
To: "'DIY-EFI'" <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: O-2 Failure
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"THE" list,
I recently purchased a ECHLIN O-2 sensor and installed it in the collector of my Hooker Street Rod headers on my V-8 Datsun Z car. It worked great at first. I haven't been monitoring it lately and when I hooked my trusty Fluke 87 to the wires I ran in the car from the O-2 it was putting out between .18-.2 volts no matter what load/RPM. I looked at the O-2 sensor itself and  I noticed exhaust soot coming from the metal cap where the electrical lead comes out. I take it his is NOT good. 
	Any insight on this problem or experience using these generic one wire ECHLIN O-2 sensors? The parts guy at NAPA said it was a quality unit and recommended it over the generic BOSCH unit I originally wanted.

		Thanks in advance for any and all info,

		Paul (BRAAP) Ruschman
		75' 280 ZR-1
		http://www.datsuns.com/projects/paulrproject.htm


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  9 00:36:35 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Proms+things  Pro 101
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 21:34:45 -0700
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Did I say 10? Sorry I meant 100.

Seriously, I am more than happy to pay for them. Well, not more than happy,
but happy. Well, not happy, but willing. Ok, not willing, but I will.
Probibly at least.

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, April 08, 1998 7:52 PM
Subject: Proms+things Pro 101


>Well folks, in appreciation for the help I've received, and for the folks
>that I can never repay for their help, I've decided to send out all the
>chips, no charge.
>  I missed the Post Office today, and there are two packages that
>I got to figure out packaging for, but all the others will hit the mail
>tomorrow.
>  In yesterdays post there may be a error that is under review, and
>another that I consider to some degree a point of veiw.  In the fuel
>area, I mentioned that they probably turned the fuel off to keep from
>over reving the engine, and it's been also pointed out that do to the
>engine limited breathing, maintaining the fuel flow isn't nessecary.
>
>   There are a few folks that perfer to remain unnamed that have really
>made this happen, and I'd like the list in general to know how much I
>appreciate their efforts.
>Sincerely
>Bruce
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  9 04:32:53 1998
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Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 02:20:35 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Paul Ruschman wrote:
> 
> 
> "THE" list,
> I recently purchased a ECHLIN O-2 sensor and installed it in the collector of my Hooker Street Rod headers on my V-8 Datsun Z car. It worked great at first. I haven't been monitoring it lately and when I hooked my trusty Fluke 87 to the wires I ran in the car from the O-2 it was putting out between .18-.2 volts no matter what load/RPM. I looked at the O-2 sensor itself and  I noticed exhaust soot coming from the metal cap where the electrical lead comes out. I take it his is NOT good.
>         Any insight on this problem or experience using these generic one wire ECHLIN O-2 sensors? The parts guy at NAPA said it was a quality unit and recommended it over the generic BOSCH unit I originally wanted.
> 
>                 Thanks in advance for any and all info,
> 
>                 Paul (BRAAP) Ruschman
>                 75' 280 ZR-1
>                 http://www.datsuns.com/projects/paulrproject.htm
I have had problems with aftermarket O2 sensors.  They can
send a voltage prematurely, causing the ecm to go into open
loop before the sensor is properly warmed up, they can fail
prematurely, and the connecto0rs sometimes don't make good
connection.  I like to use a GM unit from a 90 pickup for
one wire sensors in GM vehicles.  These are somewhat
protected from mud intrusion.  I'm sure that many people
have used aftermarket sensors without trouble, but I have
had problems with them.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  9 06:07:56 1998
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Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 05:00:39 -0500
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Paul

put the O2 in a flame of a propane torch it will read 1v after heated.

Steve

Paul Ruschman wrote:

> "THE" list,
> I recently purchased a ECHLIN O-2 sensor and installed it in the
> collector of my Hooker Street Rod headers on my V-8 Datsun Z car. It
> worked great at first. I haven't been monitoring it lately and when I
> hooked my trusty Fluke 87 to the wires I ran in the car from the O-2
> it was putting out between .18-.2 volts no matter what load/RPM. I
> looked at the O-2 sensor itself and  I noticed exhaust soot coming
> from the metal cap where the electrical lead comes out. I take it his
> is NOT good.
>         Any insight on this problem or experience using these generic
> one wire ECHLIN O-2 sensors? The parts guy at NAPA said it was a
> quality unit and recommended it over the generic BOSCH unit I
> originally wanted.
>
>                 Thanks in advance for any and all info,
>
>                 Paul (BRAAP) Ruschman
>                 75' 280 ZR-1
>                 http://www.datsuns.com/projects/paulrproject.htm




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  9 07:40:18 1998
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From: "Rusdi Harahap" <mx6jakarta@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Newcomers from Indonesia
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Hi everybody ....
I just joined this mailing list and still trying to catch up the
basic knowledge so I can follow you all.
I'm an EE but working in software company, and not dealing with 
microprocessor stuff quite a long time ... 
I own a Mazda MX6 2.0 litre 4 cly DOHC engine, with specs :
type : FE in line 4 cylinder DOHC 16 valve
capacity : 1998 cc
piston bore X stroke : 86 X 86 mm
compression ratio : 10.0 : 1
output : 148/6000 (ps/rpm), 109/6000 (kw/rpm) 
(I'm not sure this small type is available in US)

Since last year I started to enhance my car performance.I replaced the 
bolt on parts, cylinder head and when came to modify the ECU,I found 
noone in my country can help me. They said why I didn't go for
Honda or Toyota and they had plenty of upgraded ECU for them.
I really love my car and swore to the God I'll fight to develop the
ECU by my own.

I contacted an EFI performance chips supplier in Australia and sent my 
stock EPROM programme by mail. After they reprogammed it, I uploaded it 
into a new EPROM but it didn't work properly.
My car RPM was really unstable, could not stay at iddle RPM and even
could not go higher than 4000 RPM.
If I put my stock EPROM back, it works normally, so there are no
damage happened during socketing and installation. 

I consulted this matter quite a lot with the Australian supplier,
and they were very sure that the programme could work properly since
I have informed them quite detail (type of ECU, type of EPROM and 
all detail modifications)

But after several times discussion and trial, there are no significant
progress with this.

What do I miss ????
Now I try to dig more in ECU knowledge so I can locate the problem 
precisely.

My short term goal is just to optimize all engine modification I
have and bypass the rev limiter (6700 RPM).
In the long term I would like to install a high lift cam, adjustable
sprocket and even turbocharger.

Does anyone can lead me to the right way ?
Please help ...
Thanks 

Rusdi Harahap
BDN II/1 Jakarta 12430 Indonesia 



______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

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On Wed, 8 Apr 1998 rbraun@mail.enter.net (?) wrote:
> printscreen does not work ( properly if at all)  in W95.  Restart in 
> ms dos mode and then run calmap, see if that works.


For the clueless like me, I found out recently that
it's *supposed* to work like....

  If you press PrintScreen, Windows95/NT copies the
  entire window to the Clipboard; Alt-PrintScreen copies 
  only the active window. To print, open Paint and paste from
  the clipboard, then choose File, Print.

...your mileage will vary, obviously.
And according to Mr. Gates there are no bugs in MS software!

-greg        


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  9 10:28:00 1998
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On Wed, 8 Apr 1998, Bailey, Robert B. wrote:

> You must type 'graphics' and hit enter before loading calmap.
> 
> This loads memory resident program GRAPHICS.COM which handles
> print-screens from CGA graphics mode.  The dos help system can 
> provide additional details about how to use GRAPHICS.COM
> 
> 
> Bob Bailey
> Bailey Engineering
> 
Wow!!  This made it work just fine!!

'86 Z28 350 DFI Richmond 6-speed
Robert Wilkinson
http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~rw



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  9 14:05:00 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Projection
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 12:01:01 -0700
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Well, I did it.  I purchased a Holley 4D system for my 351W-powered boat.

I've changed my mind (again) and will try and fit the O2 sensor somehow. 
 Question:  My EGR port (Edelbrock Performer manifold) is blanked off.  A 
perhaps stupid question, but does anyone have a feel for whether  there 
would be enough 'fresh' exhaust (now there's a concept), perhaps due to 
firing order pulsation, that sensing the EGR port for O2 content would 
work?  My own intuition is telling me to try and figure out a more 
conventional solution...

Thanks,

Mike Jones

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;``$````%````4D4Z( `````#``TT_3<``"83
`
end


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  9 15:15:51 1998
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What orientation was the sensor in the collector?  i.e. was it at 3 
o'clock, 9 o'clock,  sticking out the top (12 o'clock) or bottom (6 o'clock) 
etc etc ?  I've heard that anything between 9 and 3 o'clock is good (i.e. 
the top half of the dial) as below that moisture collects and can damage 
the sensor I presume by rusting.

just my $0.02 worth
jw


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What orientation was the sensor in the collector?  i.e. was it at 3 
o'clock, 9 o'clock,  sticking out the top (12 o'clock) or bottom (6 o'clock) 
etc etc ?  I've heard that anything between 9 and 3 o'clock is good (i.e. 
the top half of the dial) as below that moisture collects and can damage 
the sensor I presume by rusting.

just my $0.02 worth
jw


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  9 16:24:08 1998
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From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Intel B57684 EPROM
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 12:36:40 -0700 
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Well, I opened up the Motronic box from my beemer today.  As others had
mentioned from my prior post the PROM is indeed socketed ... and has a
nifty clip to ensure that it stays seated in the socket.  The EPROM
device has an Intel logo on it and a device type of B57684.  I'm without
my nerd novels here at home and was wondering if any of you happen to
have a databook that describes this device.  It is a 28 pin, 0.6"
spacing package.  I suspect it is similar to a 27128 or 27256, but I'd
rather know than guess when I try to read it in.  

Interestingly enough, the CPU in this box says that it is a Siemens
B57656, but it also has "Intel" stamped on it.  Does anyone know
anything about this CPU as well?

TIA!
Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)
'92 BMW k1 (K1DRBAR)
but when I cage, I quattro ...



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  9 17:00:41 1998
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Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 15:58:42 -0500
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Subject: Re: Projection
References: <01BD63AF.2C6AB820@ts6-31.rpt.cyberhighway.net>
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I have a copy of the marine 4D and Di system in front of me here and it
says to install the o2 sensor in the cast-iron manifold, right next to
one exhaust port.  I have a newer manual than the one released (for the
marine projection) and it goes into much much better detail than the
original manuals.
-- 
Andy Quaas

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  9 18:00:35 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Projection
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 15:56:31 -0700
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There may be enough room to do this but it will be tight.  Those ports on 
my setup are quite short, not terribly wide and not very deep either.  I 
think I'll have to make a new riser and bypass the water around that 
section.  Won't be too difficult and shouldn't be too frought with hidden 
dangers, and as a bonus I'll end up with a less restrictive riser.


Mike Jones
----------
>>Squash  wrote:

I have a copy of the marine 4D and Di system in front of me here and it
says to install the o2 sensor in the cast-iron manifold, right next to
one exhaust port.  I have a newer manual than the one released (for the
marine projection) and it goes into much much better detail than the
original manuals.
--
Andy Quaas>>

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end


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  9 19:19:45 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 15:53:02 +0000
Subject: RE: Projection
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Mike

Not sure exactly what the path of the exhaust gas would be.
So it would seem that the main consideration would be getting enough 
exhaust gas over the sensor to reach its operating temp (700 deg +F).
The temp could be obtained with a three wire sensor, but you would 
still need enough flow to be representative of engine performance.

Bob McKnight 
Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  9 20:15:05 1998
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Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 17:24:58 +0100
From: Ron Tyler <dcmckenna@worldnet.att.net>
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TBK wrote:
> 
> Any chance you've got the fan relay and fuel pump relay swapped?
> 
> I had a similar problem where the 730 ECM uses the MAFS input for Vats (you
> can't have a MAFS system and Vats at the same time.) The Mafs would output
> 30Hz periodically and start the car. That one took awhile to figure out!
> That's similar isn't it?


   Not likley that they are crossed... W/key on I get f.pump for 2 sec.
and then shuts down as it should.
-- 
Ron & Stephanie Tyler
'72 LT1/T56 240Z
http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  9 20:25:33 1998
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Subject: Ford PROMS (unsorted)
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I unfortunately couldn't get my drive working correctly, so I had to place
the 88MB archive online as an 88MB ZIP file.

	ftp://xephic.dynip.com/outgoing/ford/c96d.zip

If your transfer is slow, its because multiple people are trying for it...
and being a cheapo kinda guy, I only have 128KB line to the internet.

Cheers,


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  9 20:44:24 1998
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Does anybody know how to get a list of  what different mail lists there are?

Thanks,

^Bernie


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 00:37:59 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Carl, and the Haltech
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Diy'er

Got a message from Carl today, and was very concerned that he was getting a
bad
rep here in the DIY list. It was a message so I didn't get to find out the
scoop. He just want to make sure that it was know that he took care of the
folks that bought the Haltech's, and that to make sure that everyone who got
one let the list know to avert anything bad said about him. I think the issue
is pretty much put to rest, as I have seen an other person who also got
thiers.
Again, I don't know what happend to him, but he did get me mine when he said
and to that I again thank him.

Sandy 

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 00:42:02 1998
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Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 21:51:53 +0100
From: Ron Tyler <dcmckenna@worldnet.att.net>
Organization: T. Engineering
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Hey,

    I've satisfied the codes for EGR solenoid, canister purge, and air
pump w/100 ohm resistors. What I have left are the skip shift and MIL
lights and also code 97, wich is the speedo side of VSS. The FSM states
that it will set this code after 26 seconds of the wrong voltage
potential in the speedo circut. Anybody got any clues to what kind of
resistance it would take to satisfy?

   I would now expect to see code 32 (EGR) after driving the car. The
PCM expects to see a 1.0 kpa change in MAP when it shuts down the EGR
solenoid. Is there any reasonably easy way to accomplish this?

TIA
-- 
Ron & Stephanie Tyler
'72 LT1/T56 240Z
http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 01:36:24 1998
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bruce.
   to mail eproms:  take a box that your checks come in,line box with tin
foil.
cut two pices of conductive fome to fit box. back in the videocipher days we
hauled eproms all over the place,in check boxs. i have a buner and a large
eraser,if you need.
orange cone hats let you be found in snow banks.


jim  crance

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 02:25:18 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 23:24:16 -0700
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Sounds good. Air pump failure as indicated by Peter?

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Tyler <dcmckenna@worldnet.att.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 09, 1998 5:43 PM
Subject: Re: LT1 EFI Question


>TBK wrote:
>>
>> Any chance you've got the fan relay and fuel pump relay swapped?
>>
>> I had a similar problem where the 730 ECM uses the MAFS input for Vats
(you
>> can't have a MAFS system and Vats at the same time.) The Mafs would
output
>> 30Hz periodically and start the car. That one took awhile to figure out!
>> That's similar isn't it?
>
>
>   Not likley that they are crossed... W/key on I get f.pump for 2 sec.
>and then shuts down as it should.
>--
>Ron & Stephanie Tyler
>'72 LT1/T56 240Z
>http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 03:20:52 1998
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Mike Jones wrote:
> 
> Well, I did it.  I purchased a Holley 4D system for my 351W-powered boat.
> 
> I've changed my mind (again) and will try and fit the O2 sensor somehow.
>  Question:  My EGR port (Edelbrock Performer manifold) is blanked off.  A
> perhaps stupid question, but does anyone have a feel for whether  there
> would be enough 'fresh' exhaust (now there's a concept), perhaps due to
> firing order pulsation, that sensing the EGR port for O2 content would
> work?  My own intuition is telling me to try and figure out a more
> conventional solution...
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike Jones
> 
>                      Name: WINMAIL.DAT
>    WINMAIL.DAT       Type: WordPerfect Document (6.1) File (application/x-unknown-content-type-WPWin6.1File)
>                  Encoding: x-uuencode

You know, I just had an idea.  Does your intake manifold
have an exhaust crossover?  Are you using it or is it
plugged?  Might be an optimum place to put a heated ego
sensor.  Plus would raise some eyebrows...

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 03:46:43 1998
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From: EFISYSTEMS <EFISYSTEMS@aol.com>
Message-ID: <d6df206c.352dce2e@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 03:45:48 EDT
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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So here I am waiting for my payment to hit my visa card so I can re-use my
internet and my e-mail site......I used all the money I had to pay my past due
bills so I could help the group...the people that wanted some Haltech's....and
YES I agree I shouldn't have.....I have been blamed for being a thief, a liar
and a con....I have learned alot from this group and I have alot to
offer....so now I go on vacation and sit in the archives (only place I can
read from at this point)  When I finally was able to get back on-line from my
home on my AOL account I was disturbed to find I was considered a thief.....So
Tom when your check STOP payment.... It shouldn't have hurt me except you
didn't tell me when I talked to you FRIDAY,last week,,,So when I read the
archive's sunday night I got a little concerned you had cancelled your
check,,,so I sat on your Haltech,,,good for me I guess,,,,At this point I'd
rather have my kids solder on it than ship it to you.............If you think
COD's are better I could have just have easily sent you a phone book COD so
when you shook it you would have thought you were getting
something..........and yes, Group, I am a bit pissed.....just because I have a
little knowledge doesn't mean I am rich.....I stretched my self a little too
thin thinking I would be repayed in a couple of weeks.....I do thank, however,
the people that backed me and my good will..ie... Sandy,Steve,Robert, Bruce,
Kevin, Mike(EcmNut),Matt, Ken,(FiSystems),and others I can't remember
now...........................And you A70duster.....FUCK YOU............it
seems that the AOL members are the worst,,and here I am writing from my AOL
account....Sorry Orin that my mail bounced back to you....couldn't be
helped........I'll re-subscribe as InTech@writeme.com sometime soon and help
this group as much as possible... I do feel for Tom as no-one wants to get
fu#%&^#'d.....but this is a pretty good group and it might be better next time
to not jump to conclusions........Thanks to all that have helped me in the
past......I'm just going to simmer here in the background for a while.....
-Carl Summers

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 04:56:32 1998
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Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 09:50:24 +0100
From: Tony Cooper <tony.cooper@virgin.net>
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EFISYSTEMS wrote:
> 
> So here I am waiting for my payment to hit my visa card so I can re-use my
> internet and my e-mail site......I used all the money I had to pay my past due

<Snip>

> to not jump to conclusions........Thanks to all that have helped me in the
> past......I'm just going to simmer here in the background for a while.....
> -Carl Summers

Carl, I know what you are feeling, I have had the same experience myself
- I am glad that it hasn't  hit you so hard for you to say 'bugger the
list'. Good on you Carl - look forward to your return.

Tony

-- 
Sent By Tony Cooper.
email: tony.cooper@virgin.net
Allow at least 10 working minutes for reply. ;)


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 10:50:22 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Error at Programming 101
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 10:49:53 -0400
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I made a mistake,  03C7-03D7, is not a fuel adder for WOT, enable.
It is a continuation of the VE tables, for extending the map to high
rpm values.

  Also, the mention of the TPS enable percentages are not the only
parameters to be meet for WOT enable.

I hope Carl doesn't simmer too long, I miss his help on the 101 project.
NICE having him back.
  Sincerely
  Bruce



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 10:53:30 1998
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Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 10:49:54 -0400
From: bailey@netquest.com (Bailey, Robert B.)
Organization: Bailey Engineering Inc.
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Hello

What year LT1 PCM are you using?

Disabling EGR will probably cause part throttle detonation due to the 
additional spark advance programmed during EGR operation.  If you 
are using a '94 - '95 PCM then reprogramming to prevent EGR might
be the best solution.

In my experience most codes will cause the PCM to turn on both fans and 
shut off 'learning'.


Bob Bailey

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 12:40:20 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Projection
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 10:09:40 -0700
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Exactly what I  meant -- I was emphasizing the EGR aspect, but that is 
indeed the crossover.  So what do you think?  Enough flow for timely O2 
info?

Mike J.

Shannen wrote:
>>You know, I just had an idea.  Does your intake manifold
have an exhaust crossover?  Are you using it or is it
plugged?  Might be an optimum place to put a heated ego
sensor.  Plus would raise some eyebrows...

Shannen>>




Mike Jones wrote:
>
> Well, I did it.  I purchased a Holley 4D system for my 351W-powered boat.
>
> I've changed my mind (again) and will try and fit the O2 sensor somehow.
>  Question:  My EGR port (Edelbrock Performer manifold) is blanked off.  A
> perhaps stupid question, but does anyone have a feel for whether  there
> would be enough 'fresh' exhaust (now there's a concept), perhaps due to
> firing order pulsation, that sensing the EGR port for O2 content would
> work?  My own intuition is telling me to try and figure out a more
> conventional solution...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Jones




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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 13:22:42 1998
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Subject: Re: Carl Summers...Tried to help the group
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 13:22:37 -0400 (EDT)
In-Reply-To: <d6df206c.352dce2e@aol.com> from "EFISYSTEMS" at Apr 10, 98 03:45:48 am
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Hi Carl,

I just finnished reading your email, It's a shame some folks don't
apreciate your generosity.

Remember that the path to hell is paved with good intensions.

Respectfully,

Iestyn.
PS. Spell-check not working, sorry!


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From: "Gregory A. Parmer" <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
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There are others which I don't know, but the
EEC-EFI list can be subscribed to automagically
by sending mail to

eec-subscribe@eelink.net

It is for discussion of Ford's EEC-IV.

-greg

Greg Parmer
Auburn, AL 



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Date:         Fri, 10 Apr 98  16:32:12 EDT
From: Tim Gooding <TGOODING@SIVM.SI.EDU>
Subject:      HC11 and prop
To: <DIY_EFI@EFI332.ENG.OHIO-STATE.EDU>
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Greetings!

I am laying out an HC11 board for use as a datalogger on a motorcycle
initially, and as a programmable ignition at some point down the road.
The ignition will use some sort of Hall effect sensor to determine crank
position.

I wanted to use a simple inductive pickup around a spark plug wire to
pick up an RPM signal. There are a couple of problems here. On our new
GSXR the coils are incorporated in the spark plug caps, so no plug wires
with the big inductive collapse. The coil/cap thing is new to
motorcycles but has been on cars for a while, I understand. Has anybody
figured out how to measure ignition pulses without splicing into an
ignition wire(something known to cause problems, at least with motorbike
digital ignitions), or resorting to building a box to split and amplify
ignition signals.What kind of noise precautions are necessary when
measuring inductive collapse? What effect do the other(three) plugs
have?

I could install a separate Hall effect sensor to read a camshaft bolt,
or use the stock sensor(mounted on the countershaft), but the question
intrigued me.

On an unrelated topic, the use of isopropyl alcohol as a fuel
additive/oxygenator has come to my attention. Does anybody know the
ratio, and what percentage jet increases would be necessary? We are an
endurance team looking for an edge, so any help would be greatly
appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Tim Gooding
  Army of Darkness Racing
  Smithsonian Institution


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 16:56:52 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 21:29:09 +0000
Subject: OBD
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Thought this may be of interest :

Extract/summary from UK Consumer Magazine entitled "Campaign to block 
proposed repairs monopoly"

"The Consumers Association is blocking a bid to prevent a small 
anti-polution gadget becoming the key to a multi-million pound 
monopoly on car repairs (for vehicle manufacturers) by proposing 
an ammendment to forthcoming legislation...  By 2001 all new 
petrol-engined Eurpopean cars will have to contain an on-board
diagnostic system (OBD)......the problem is that car makers 
intend to design OBDs so that only proprietary devices can read 
the codes and to use proprietary codes.....this would unfairly
limit competition... and penalise independant repairers..
...as of this date the European Parliament has endorsed the
proposed ammendment but European government ministers
remain to be persuaded"

--Well, lets wait and see with interest.......the "small
anti-polution gadget" is of course ECU with OBD capability.

I guess this may cause a bit of amusement or deja vu with some
of the US based diy_efi subscribers.

Martin

----------------------------------------------------------
martin@mgass.demon.co.uk
----------------------------------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 18:57:24 1998
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Subject: BOUNCE diy_efi: Admin request (fwd)
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu (DIY EFI List)
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Please try to keep s*bscribe or uns*bscribe out of your subjects and
the first few lines of your posts or it bounces...

Forwarded message:
> From orin@WOLFENET.com  Fri Apr 10 14:09:17 1998
> Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 17:09:14 -0400
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> Subject: BOUNCE diy_efi: Admin request

> >From diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu  Fri Apr 10 17:09:14 1998
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> From: James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca>
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> Hello: It seems some are having trouble finding the new EEC-IV list.  It 
> has been moved so to sxbscribe to it use the following:

> eec-subscribe@eelink.net

> cheers
> jw


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 18:58:41 1998
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From: "Thor Johnson" <thormj@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V3 #152 - More Q's on data visualization?
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> I guess that is what I was trying to ask.  Do 2d systems have
have only
> 2 inputs even though their graphs can look like a 3d?  Or is
this what a
> 3d system is?  If this is true, has there ever been systems
that allow
> three variables to calculate the fuel needed?  i.e. a variable
for each
> axis, x,y, and z.

The graph is probably (as you surmized) 2 inputs (x,y), z out.
The real problem with more inputs (IE... 4D table, a cube with
the color representing the output) would probably lie in the
amount of space required for the table. (10x10 = 100... 10x10x10=
100)

Here is where I get lost.... using a 4D/5D table, I would assume
that you could tune the engine perfectly (x=RPM, Y=MAP,
Z=Delta-Throttle, P=Engine Coolant,... etc).  But how would you
get the data to reduce to something a microcontroller could
handle?
(10x10x10x10x10 = too much for a 68hc11!)

How would you take data to put it into the 5 dimensional thingy
(ie. how would you make test runs to populate the grid)?

And the best question.... I control the Fuel, which controls
RPMs.... what do I do about interactions?



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 19:35:41 1998
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Can someone with an F3 check their manual for me?

What are the connections for the following wires.

pink
grey
brown

Thanks

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 19:41:09 1998
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Can someone with an F3 check their manual for me?

What are the following wires:

pink
grey
brown

Thanks

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 23:34:29 1998
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martin@mgass.demon.co.uk wrote:
> 
>snip< 
  By 2001 all new
> petrol-engined Eurpopean cars will have to contain an on-board
> diagnostic system (OBD)......the problem is that car makers
> intend to design OBDs so that only proprietary devices can read
> the codes and to use proprietary codes.....this would unfairly
> limit competition... and penalise independant repairers..
> 
> --Well, lets wait and see with interest.......the "small
> anti-polution gadget" is of course ECU with OBD capability.
> 
> I guess this may cause a bit of amusement or deja vu with some
> of the US based diy_efi subscribers.
> 
> Martin
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> martin@mgass.demon.co.uk
> ----------------------------------------------------------

Throw OBD away and get right on to OBDII.  Standard
diagnostic capability is the only way to go.  

The great thing about standards is that there are so many to
choose from.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 23:34:37 1998
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martin@mgass.demon.co.uk wrote:
> 
>snip< 
  By 2001 all new
> petrol-engined Eurpopean cars will have to contain an on-board
> diagnostic system (OBD)......the problem is that car makers
> intend to design OBDs so that only proprietary devices can read
> the codes and to use proprietary codes.....this would unfairly
> limit competition... and penalise independant repairers..
> 
> --Well, lets wait and see with interest.......the "small
> anti-polution gadget" is of course ECU with OBD capability.
> 
> I guess this may cause a bit of amusement or deja vu with some
> of the US based diy_efi subscribers.
> 
> Martin
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> martin@mgass.demon.co.uk
> ----------------------------------------------------------

Might as well throw OBD away and get right on to OBDII. 
Standard diagnostic capability is the only way to go.  

The great thing about standards is that there are so many to
choose from.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 10 23:55:45 1998
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Mike Jones wrote:
> <snip>

> Exactly what I  meant -- I was emphasizing the EGR aspect, but that is
> indeed the crossover.  So what do you think?  Enough flow for timely O2
> info?
> 
Well, I've been thinking about this one.  You would probably
have to install the sensor at an angle so the tip reached
into one of the heads.  I don't think the crossover is deep
enough to mount the sensor vertically.

Enough exhaust flow?  I would think so.  Since you are
programming the ecu, and since you basically run at a fixed
rpm, it seems like you could use the readings reliably. 
Flow would depend on exhaust pressure differences between
banks.  You might find a way to measure the temp of the
crossover right by the head, before and during a run across
the lake.  Cold or cool would mean no exhaust flow. 

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 00:00:53 1998
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<snip>
Thanks to all that have helped me in the
> past......I'm just going to simmer here in the background for a while.....
> -Carl Summers
Hey Carl, been there.  Have had "good friends" stiff me for
parts and work enough times that I often don't bother to
help anymore.  It sucks, but that's the way it is for me. 
Glad you're back, though.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 00:42:29 1998
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Subject: Output of distributer's magnetic pickup 
Message-ID: <19980411.003943.11246.0.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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I have a Motorcraft Duraspark ignition in my '89 Grand Wagoneer.  I am
trying to use a seven-pin GM ignition module so that I can control the
spark timing with the Holley Pro-Jection 4Di box.  I want to trigger the
GM module with the pickup coil output of the Motorcraft distributer.

The seven-pin module is the one that is used in the GM HEI (High Energy
Ignition) systems - both coil-in-cap and the external coil module.

This is rather obscure info, but maybe someone can help me.

1) What is the voltage output of the ignition pickup coil that is used
for the Motorcraft Duraspark?

2) What voltage is required to trigger the GM module?

Do you know of anyone who has used a Motorcraft distributer to trigger a
GM module?

Ray Drouillard

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 00:54:34 1998
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From: A70Duster <A70Duster@aol.com>
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In a message dated 98-04-10 03:54:07 EDT, you write:

<< And you A70duster.....F*** YOU............it
 seems that the AOL members are the worst,,and here I am writing from my AOL
 account.. >>


Oh yeah, got a real live one here.....

Hope the rest of you out there didn't get F****D.

Please return to DIY_EFI

Bye...

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 01:26:07 1998
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Subject: Re: Carl Summers...Tried to help the group
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I say we get 'em, Men! Are you with me?

String 'em up!

Dance! I said DANCE!

Can we move on to EFI now?




DIY-FYI Thought Police


-----Original Message-----
From: A70Duster <A70Duster@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, April 10, 1998 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: Carl Summers...Tried to help the group


>In a message dated 98-04-10 03:54:07 EDT, you write:
>
><< And you A70duster.....F*** YOU............it
> seems that the AOL members are the worst,,and here I am writing from my
AOL
> account.. >>
>
>
>Oh yeah, got a real live one here.....
>
>Hope the rest of you out there didn't get F****D.
>
>Please return to DIY_EFI
>
>Bye...
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 01:28:06 1998
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From: "Duane Reed" <duanered@pacbell.net>
To: "EMCNUT" <ECMnut@aol.com>, "MN12 Mailing List" <mn12@mindspring.com>,
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Subject: want used injectors
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 22:20:36 -0700
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looking for 6 used injectors the ones I can use now are  from a Ford
Thunderbird Super Coupe bosch
injector +ACM-0-280-150-756  around 14-16 k ohms and flow about 32lbs hr. at
45psi  or if you can recommend a suitable replacement ?

willing to pay +AH4AJA-25 each
thanks for your time
Duane Reed


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 01:28:06 1998
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From: "Duane Reed" <duanered@pacbell.net>
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Subject: want used injectors
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 22:20:36 -0700
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looking for 6 used injectors the ones I can use now are  from a Ford
Thunderbird Super Coupe bosch
injector +ACM-0-280-150-756  around 14-16 k ohms and flow about 32lbs hr. at
45psi  or if you can recommend a suitable replacement ?

willing to pay +AH4AJA-25 each
thanks for your time
Duane Reed


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 07:28:30 1998
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Carl is a helpful guy that always gives more
to the list as he takes away.  Let's hope that 
doesn't change, now that the list turned and bit him..

 He was nice enough to hold a Haltech almost
indefinitely for me, while I figured out that
the tax-man had first claim to my money this month..
When I told him I could not buy it, he said "no problem"
 "thanks for letting me know"... 

After the flames started flying, I was very sorry to hear
that it was his own money that was making these
units available to us.  (okay, hang me first) .
Glad he's back.

Mike V.

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 08:36:28 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Output of distributer's magnetic pickup 
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 08:36:03 -0400
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----Original Message-----
From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@juno.com>
To: fsj@digest.net <fsj@digest.net>; fsj-list@unix.off-road.com
<fsj-list@unix.off-road.com>; diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, April 11, 1998 1:16 AM
Subject: Output of distributer's magnetic pickup


>I have a Motorcraft Duraspark ignition in my '89 Grand Wagoneer.  I am
>trying to use a seven-pin GM ignition module so that I can control the
>spark timing with the Holley Pro-Jection 4Di box.  I want to trigger the
>GM module with the pickup coil output of the Motorcraft distributer.
>
>The seven-pin module is the one that is used in the GM HEI (High Energy
>Ignition) systems - both coil-in-cap and the external coil module.
>
>This is rather obscure info, but maybe someone can help me.
>
>1) What is the voltage output of the ignition pickup coil that is used
>for the Motorcraft Duraspark?
>
>2) What voltage is required to trigger the GM module?
>
>Do you know of anyone who has used a Motorcraft distributer to trigger a
>GM module?
>
>Ray Drouillard
>
In the "Dr's Guide to Optimizing your Ignition System" they have a
chapter on doing this and the mopar to gm adaptation.
  Off the top of my head ya just wire the pickup coil to the two
"normal" pickup pins of the gm.  It does matter which lead goes to
which pin (the most initial advance being correct).
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 08:50:52 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Aftermarket ecn maps
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 08:50:28 -0400
Message-ID: <01bd6548$676a1ca0$18198fd1@nacelp>
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Would the owners of the various aftermarket ecms mind posting
what each offers to be programmed?.  I've tried to go to the 
various wb sites, but have not been able to access them, or when
I do the download I get stuff I can't read.
  Or would ya e-mail me, with a list of tables if you think it's off
base for discussion here.
  Bruce    nacelp@bright.net


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 12:49:56 1998
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Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 12:40:57 +0000
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Mazdatrix had a gadget to not cut the fuel to the rear rotor on high
boost. It lies, and you place it in series with the boost sensor.
They have a web site http://www.mazdatrix.com

I would still like to know some data on the Rotary System. My
application is for an orphan engine (the 20B).

Angel

M&D wrote:
> 
> Does anyone here have any data on the Bosch L-Motronic systems? That is what
> I believe the RX-7's have. I am interested in doing two things: removing the
> fuel cut under high boost, and extending the fuel maps. Any ideas?
> 
> Michael Harrington
> 91coupe@bellsouth.net
> 91 RX-7 Coupe "Pearl" w/ some mods
> 88 RX-7 T2 "Beast" sitting in carport :(
> N3WJE Technician+ Ham

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 13:34:23 1998
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From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>
To: DIY-EFI <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: DIY_EFI Archives?
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 10:36:14 -0700
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For some reason the list server likes to kick me off the digest every
once in a while.  I haven't received digests for the past few days ...
is there an archive somewhere that I can access to read them?

TIA!
Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 16:18:43 1998
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From: James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca>
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        diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: EEC: want used injectors
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Try the Buick GN list.  These cars came with 30-32 lb/hr injectors.
jw


On Fri, 10 Apr 1998, Duane Reed wrote:

> looking for 6 used injectors the ones I can use now are  from a Ford
> Thunderbird Super Coupe bosch
> injector +ACM-0-280-150-756  around 14-16 k ohms and flow about 32lbs hr. at
> 45psi  or if you can recommend a suitable replacement ?
> 
> willing to pay +AH4AJA-25 each
> thanks for your time
> Duane Reed
> 
> *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** **
> EEC@eelink.net -- For more info go to:
> 
> http://eelink.umich.edu/~p-nowak/eec-efi/EEC-Mailadddrop.html
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 16:18:42 1998
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Subject: Re: EEC: want used injectors
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Try the Buick GN list.  These cars came with 30-32 lb/hr injectors.
jw


On Fri, 10 Apr 1998, Duane Reed wrote:

> looking for 6 used injectors the ones I can use now are  from a Ford
> Thunderbird Super Coupe bosch
> injector +ACM-0-280-150-756  around 14-16 k ohms and flow about 32lbs hr. at
> 45psi  or if you can recommend a suitable replacement ?
> 
> willing to pay +AH4AJA-25 each
> thanks for your time
> Duane Reed
> 
> *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** **
> EEC@eelink.net -- For more info go to:
> 
> http://eelink.umich.edu/~p-nowak/eec-efi/EEC-Mailadddrop.html
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 16:58:22 1998
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Subject: Re: Honda F2 injectors.
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bruno,

We offer reconditioned fuel injectors of all types for $ 24.95 each with a
exchange if needed to increase or add fuel.
Call us at  317-487-9460 and talk to doug Garriot our fuel injection wizzard
or request fuel injection info at our web page from :
www.lindertech.com

Jim Linder
the injector " guru"

Bruno P Vanzieleghem wrote:

> I am looking for suitable injectors for a Honda F2 engine (600cc). We are
> running the engine with a 20 mm restricter. Does anyone know of suitable
> injectors (at a reasonable price).
>
> Bruno Vanzieleghem




From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 17:01:51 1998
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Duane,

We offer many reconditioned injectors at $ 24.95 each.  Call 317-487-9460 and
talk to the injector wizzard Doug Garriott.
Or request info from our web page at www.lindertech.com.

Jim Linder
the injector : guru:


Duane Reed wrote:

> looking for 6 used injectors the ones I can use now are  from a Ford
> Thunderbird Super Coupe bosch
> injector +ACM-0-280-150-756  around 14-16 k ohms and flow about 32lbs hr. at
> 45psi  or if you can recommend a suitable replacement ?
>
> willing to pay +AH4AJA-25 each
> thanks for your time
> Duane Reed




From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 18:37:35 1998
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From: RS <rs450@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: EEC: want used injectors
To: eec@eelink.net, eec@eelink.net
Cc: homebrew-autos@xephic.dynip.com, eec@eelink.net,
        diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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I have some 35 pph injectors  from an SVO.  
leme know
Randy


> On Fri, 10 Apr 1998, Duane Reed wrote:
> 
> > looking for 6 used injectors the ones I can use now are  from a Ford
> > Thunderbird Super Coupe bosch
> > injector +ACM-0-280-150-756  around 14-16 k ohms and flow about
32lbs hr. at
> > 45psi  or if you can recommend a suitable replacement ?
> > 
> > willing to pay +AH4AJA-25 each
> > thanks for your time
> > Duane Reed
> > 
> > *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** **
> > EEC@eelink.net -- For more info go to:
> > 
> > http://eelink.umich.edu/~p-nowak/eec-efi/EEC-Mailadddrop.html
> > 
> *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** **
> EEC@eelink.net -- For more info go to:
> 
> http://eelink.umich.edu/~p-nowak/eec-efi/EEC-Mailadddrop.html
> 

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 18:37:35 1998
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Subject: Re: EEC: want used injectors
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Cc: homebrew-autos@xephic.dynip.com, eec@eelink.net,
        diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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I have some 35 pph injectors  from an SVO.  
leme know
Randy


> On Fri, 10 Apr 1998, Duane Reed wrote:
> 
> > looking for 6 used injectors the ones I can use now are  from a Ford
> > Thunderbird Super Coupe bosch
> > injector +ACM-0-280-150-756  around 14-16 k ohms and flow about
32lbs hr. at
> > 45psi  or if you can recommend a suitable replacement ?
> > 
> > willing to pay +AH4AJA-25 each
> > thanks for your time
> > Duane Reed
> > 
> > *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** **
> > EEC@eelink.net -- For more info go to:
> > 
> > http://eelink.umich.edu/~p-nowak/eec-efi/EEC-Mailadddrop.html
> > 
> *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** **
> EEC@eelink.net -- For more info go to:
> 
> http://eelink.umich.edu/~p-nowak/eec-efi/EEC-Mailadddrop.html
> 

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 19:09:05 1998
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Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 16:17:13 +0100
From: Ron Tyler <dcmckenna@worldnet.att.net>
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Hello,

      I satisifed DTC 11 (MIL) with a bulb. This left only two other
codes, skip shift, and speedo. The FSM states that the speedo error code
will not illuminate the MIL. The skip shift apparently does not either.
Bottom line...I no longer have premature fan operation! The car also
seems to be idling a little lower (Ill know more after a day of
driving). I do have another question...The MIL draws .16 amps at 13.5V.
The bulb I am using draws .21 amps at 12.5V. I installed a 30 ohm
resistor to bring the amperage in line. This dimmed the bulb a bit. Does
anyone know if the .21 amps would do any damage to the PCM?


Thanx for all the help guys.
-- 
Ron & Stephanie Tyler
'72 LT1/T56 240Z
http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 19:12:32 1998
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Bailey, Robert B. wrote:
> 
> Hello
> 
> What year LT1 PCM are you using?
> 
> Disabling EGR will probably cause part throttle detonation due to the
> additional spark advance programmed during EGR operation.  If you
> are using a '94 - '95 PCM then reprogramming to prevent EGR might
> be the best solution.
> 
> In my experience most codes will cause the PCM to turn on both fans and
> shut off 'learning'.
> 
> Bob Bailey


  I'm using a '95 PCM, scanner shows no knock at cruise, and scanner
also reports learn enabled
-- 
Ron & Stephanie Tyler
'72 LT1/T56 240Z
http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 11 19:13:28 1998
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Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 16:21:56 +0100
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> Sounds good. Air pump failure as indicated by Peter?


   Yep

-- 
Ron & Stephanie Tyler
'72 LT1/T56 240Z
http://www.whit.org/jcaudle/LT1-3.jpg

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 12 00:13:20 1998
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Hi,
            I am looking for a haltech f9 or f9a for a
project I am working on. If you have one or know of a place
I can get one used please e-mail me direct. Thanks

Brian~;}


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Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 19:05:47 -1000
From: "Paul E. Bueltmann III" <paulb3@gte.net>
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> ----Original Message-----
> From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@juno.com>
> To: fsj@digest.net <fsj@digest.net>; fsj-list@unix.off-road.com
> <fsj-list@unix.off-road.com>; diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Saturday, April 11, 1998 1:16 AM
> Subject: Output of distributer's magnetic pickup
> 
> >I have a Motorcraft Duraspark ignition in my '89 Grand Wagoneer.  I am
> >trying to use a seven-pin GM ignition module so that I can control the
> >spark timing with the Holley Pro-Jection 4Di box.  I want to trigger the
> >GM module with the pickup coil output of the Motorcraft distributer.
> >
> >The seven-pin module is the one that is used in the GM HEI (High Energy
> >Ignition) systems - both coil-in-cap and the external coil module.
> >
> >This is rather obscure info, but maybe someone can help me.
> >
> >1) What is the voltage output of the ignition pickup coil that is used
> >for the Motorcraft Duraspark?
> >
> >2) What voltage is required to trigger the GM module?
> >
> >Do you know of anyone who has used a Motorcraft distributer to trigger a
> >GM module?
> >
> >Ray Drouillard

I measured the voltage at the pins on a napa echlin tp49 7 pin and
measured 3 volts at low rpm and 5 volts at the high rpm don't know if I
was measuring from the right pins. The pins I used were the b pin and +
pin on the 3 wire side.

later paulb3@gte.net

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 12 02:47:13 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: peter paul fenske <ffnsp955@bcit.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: wpappy holiday
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Hi Terry

How are ya. Es stupor chargor raunning..

put aircleaner together..

found lots of rubbers joint elbows ect at home hardware..

well truck does run ok..

well off to bed

:peter



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 12 04:11:50 1998
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Buchholz, Steven wrote:

> For some reason the list server likes to kick me off the digest every
> once in a while.  I haven't received digests for the past few days ...
> is there an archive somewhere that I can access to read them?
>
> TIA!
> Steve Buchholz
> San Jose, CA (USA)

  You betcha!

 http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/diy_efi/archive/archive_current
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 12 09:09:21 1998
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> Date:          Sun, 12 Apr 1998 01:59:25 -0600
> From:          Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
> To:            diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:       Re: DIY_EFI Archives?
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

> 
> 
> Buchholz, Steven wrote:
> 
> > For some reason the list server likes to kick me off the digest every
> > once in a while.  I haven't received digests for the past few days ...
> > is there an archive somewhere that I can access to read them?
> >
Same thing happened to me, Is there something offensive it does not 
like?
> > TIA!
> > Steve Buchholz
> > San Jose, CA (USA)
> 
>   You betcha!
> 
>  http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/diy_efi/archive/archive_current
> Shannen
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 12 10:09:24 1998
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4D and Di systems all have heated O2 sensors.
-- 
Andy Quaas

bamcknig@postoffice.syspac.com wrote:
> 
> Mike
> 
> Not sure exactly what the path of the exhaust gas would be.
> So it would seem that the main consideration would be getting enough
> exhaust gas over the sensor to reach its operating temp (700 deg +F).
> The temp could be obtained with a three wire sensor, but you would
> still need enough flow to be representative of engine performance.
> 
> Bob McKnight
> Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 12 11:31:20 1998
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xxalexx@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> 
> > Date:          Sun, 12 Apr 1998 01:59:25 -0600
> > From:          Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
> > To:            diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > Subject:       Re: DIY_EFI Archives?
> > Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> 
> >
> >
> > Buchholz, Steven wrote:
> >
> > > For some reason the list server likes to kick me off the digest every
> > > once in a while.  I haven't received digests for the past few days ...
> > > is there an archive somewhere that I can access to read them?
> > >
> Same thing happened to me, Is there something offensive it does not
> like?
> > > TIA!
> > > Steve Buchholz
> > > San Jose, CA (USA)
> >
> >   You betcha!
> >
> >  http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/diy_efi/archive/archive_current
> > Shannen
> >
> >
> >
Maybe DIY_EFI isn't always emissions legal...

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 12 19:24:27 1998
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Subject: What is the necessary resolution of Injector times? (fwd)
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu (DIY EFI List)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 16:24:23 -0700 (PDT)
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Please note the original Reply-To:

Forwarded message:

> Reply-To: <thormj@iname.com>

> I know more is better, but the linear interpolation routines are
> killing me, so its time for a realistic approach.

> Solution #1:
> What is the max % I can be off ideal before the engine notices?
> Do I need to get withing 5%, or is 10% ok?  I would eliminate the
> linear interpolation & just use the closest index.

> Solution #2:
> Can anyone provide me with a *quick* 2 point linear interpolation
> (1d map)... and a quick 4 point interpolation (2d map)?

> My current code looks like:
> return (x-curve[i-1].x)*(curve[i].y - curve[i-1].y)/
> 	   (curve[i].x - curve[i-1].x) + curve[i-1].y;

> This is for a 68hc11 uC, so the less math the better. :-/

> -Thor Johnson
> thormj@iname.com




From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 12 20:05:34 1998
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Thor -

I am surprised to see an attempt at interpolation. I was under
the impression that the resolution of the map (256*) was more
than adequate. I have one map that is 16* (an aftermarket add on
ECU for a 2 stroke snowmobile engine - open loop), and as best I
can tell by looking at the pulse widths, it is not interpolated.

My approach would be to go with a 16* map, and fine tune to the
O2 sensor. Remember that even with a 16* map, the max error comes
out to (1/32) or about 3%. If that isn't good enough for you, I
hope you never try to tune a carburated engine (the carb on the
aformentioned snowmobile has 5 jets for different points on the
curve, all adjested differently) you would wind up in the funny
farm if you insisted on better than 3% for all.

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 12 21:53:17 1998
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Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 18:52:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Vandrachek <chrisv@egr.up.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Source for MC33293 Injector Drivers?
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	Does anybody in EFI land have a good source for Motorola's Quad
Fuel Injector driver - MC33293?  Newark doesn't carry them anymore...and I
need at least one real quick for a design contest.  Any leads would be
greatly appreciated.
	
      Thank you,
	Chris Vondrachek
	
	chrisv@egr.up.edu

**********************************************
68-73 Datsun 510 addict and EFI nut. 




From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 12 22:11:18 1998
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Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 19:14:12 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: Haltech wiring?
In-Reply-To: <352EAC8A.4022@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
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At 07:34 PM 4/10/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Can someone with an F3 check their manual for me?
>
>What are the connections for the following wires.
>
>pink
High current for fuel pump or relay


>grey
Connects to 12V when Ignition is On

>brown
Connects to Tach output on MSD or Points on regular points on the negative
side
of the coil

>
>Thanks
>
>Rob
>gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 12 22:36:08 1998
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Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 16:31:35 -1000
From: "Paul E. Bueltmann III" <paulb3@gte.net>
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I have poked around on the various search engines and have been
wondering what would be the best/cost effective choice out there.  I
have seen a range of prices for both the emulators with their
accompaning software and the programers also.  Just courious as to what
you guys are using considering to get deeper into this efi programing
stuff.  

later paulb3@gte.net

p.s. what are the diffrent proms being used by G.M.

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 12 23:50:12 1998
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From: "Thor Johnson" <thormj@earthlink.net>
To: "Diy-Efi" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: How consistent are stock EGO sensors?
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 23:49:56 -0400
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I know that they are not terribly accurate for getting exact A/F
measurements, but I bought 4 sensors the same day, and installed
them on the four output ports (about 3" down from the engine.  A
typical line of readings are:

   0x90  0x92  0x80 0x92 (forgive the hex.... these are
arbitrary, 0x70 is "stoich")

Does this mean that Cyl #3 is getting more air than the others (&
therefore needs more fuel, or needs to have its intake reworked),
or is this pretty much expected from ordinary $20 "universal
oxygen sensors"?

TIA,
Thor Johnson
thormj@iname.com


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 00:00:43 1998
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From: "Thor Johnson" <thormj@earthlink.net>
To: "Diy-Efi" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Programming 101... Eproms vs Flash?
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 00:00:41 -0400
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Just curious... anyone out there using Flash instead of EProms?
The parts are pretty cheap (esp for small qtys... I got 4 samples
from AMD for the asking).  The big thing is that they don't need
to sit under UV to be erased.... but you might have a hard time
find programmers that like them.

I was thinking about making a parallel port flash programmer at
one time... if there's and interest (or if you know of anyone
who's already done this), lemme know.

-Thor Johnson
thormj@iname.com


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From: Chris Vandrachek <chrisv@egr.up.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Pin-out of GM MAP sensor needed
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Would anybody be kind enough to tell me what the A, B, and C pins of a GM
3 pin MAP sensor are?  I only have one so I can't tear it apart to find
out for myself.

	Thanks, 
   	 Chris Vondrachek
	 chrisv@egr.up.edu



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 00:16:13 1998
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Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 22:03:48 -0600
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Thor Johnson wrote:
> 
> I know that they are not terribly accurate for getting exact A/F
> measurements, but I bought 4 sensors the same day, and installed
> them on the four output ports (about 3" down from the engine.  A
> typical line of readings are:
> 
>    0x90  0x92  0x80 0x92 (forgive the hex.... these are
> arbitrary, 0x70 is "stoich")
> 
> Does this mean that Cyl #3 is getting more air than the others (&
> therefore needs more fuel, or needs to have its intake reworked),
> or is this pretty much expected from ordinary $20 "universal
> oxygen sensors"?
> 
> TIA,
> Thor Johnson
> thormj@iname.com
Never checked consistancy, but if I were, I'd rotate the
sensors and compare readings.

Shannen

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A is 5V Return
B is signal
C is 5V Reference




> Date:          Sun, 12 Apr 1998 21:14:33 -0700 (PDT)
> From:          Chris Vandrachek <chrisv@egr.up.edu>
> To:            diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:       Pin-out of GM MAP sensor needed
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

> 
> Would anybody be kind enough to tell me what the A, B, and C pins of a GM
> 3 pin MAP sensor are?  I only have one so I can't tear it apart to find
> out for myself.
> 
> 	Thanks, 
>    	 Chris Vondrachek
> 	 chrisv@egr.up.edu
> 
> 
> 
John Carroll
jac@wavecom.net

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 01:28:52 1998
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Subject: Re: How consistent are stock EGO sensors?
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In-Reply-To: <199804130351.UAA13041@slovakia.it.earthlink.net> from "Thor Johnson" at Apr 12, 98 11:49:56 pm
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> I know that they are not terribly accurate for getting exact A/F
> measurements, but I bought 4 sensors the same day, and installed
> them on the four output ports (about 3" down from the engine.  A
> typical line of readings are:

>    0x90  0x92  0x80 0x92 (forgive the hex.... these are
> arbitrary, 0x70 is "stoich")

> Does this mean that Cyl #3 is getting more air than the others (&
> therefore needs more fuel, or needs to have its intake reworked),
> or is this pretty much expected from ordinary $20 "universal
> oxygen sensors"?

Try swapping the sensors and see if you get different results...

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 11:38:51 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Programming 101
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 11:38:29 -0400
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If you have not been following this series please refer to the archives,
and use the search for programming 101.  Again this is for educational
purposes, and is my opinion, and experiences.  Your
results will vary.  Prom reprogramming is serious business, and not
to be taken lightly.  Again if you find errors in my writtings please
e-mail me at: nacelp@bright.net  .  If you have any tables, or known
switch locations I would appreciate you sharing them with me or the
list.  Not as a matter of power/control I'd like to hear about them, and
you'll get the credit for the contribution (if you want it).  But, I'm
trying
to organize this into a logical progression, and format.

I think now would be a good time to cover some protection for
tuning.
  There are two areas for the knock sensor retard limits, one being
for WOT it would be 017F-0187, and for non WOT 0188-018C.  The first of the
two areas is by rpm, and the other appears to be MAP related.  In either
case, I'd just set the entries to 44, and be done with it.
  On some scan tools they use knock counts for the display of
knock sensed, and others use degrees.  IMHE, the knock counts
equate to twice the actual degrees.  ie, with a OTC scanner if I
find 6 knock counts, then I know my timing is 3 degrees off.  If
you do the hex to dec, and multiply by 90, and divide by 255, you
get 24.  Which seems to work out to 12 degrees of retard, which
should all but cover the worst of circumstance (ie bad tank of fuel).
No worries mate
Bruce     Rumor control is saying that in the final episode of
               Seinfeld they all wear, yep, Cone Shaped Hats


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 12:46:02 1998
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Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 18:37:58 +0200
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
References: <933713F1FB7BD111AC2300A0C98F1AD192FEC4@milxpr06.kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Intel B57684 EPROM
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From: wenning.motorsport@t-online.de (Alexander Wenning)
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Buchholz, Steven schrieb:

The EPROM
> device has an Intel logo on it and a device type of B57684.  I'm without
> my nerd novels here at home and was wondering if any of you happen to
> have a databook that describes this device.  It is a 28 pin, 0.6"
> spacing package.  I suspect it is similar to a 27128 or 27256, but I'd
> rather know than guess when I try to read it in.  

They usually use 27C256 and 27C512. Try 27C512 and look at $8000. If there´s the same data 
as at $0000 then it´s a 27C256. If you tell me the ECU-no. (0261 ...) and the chip-no. 
(126735 ...) (each no. has 10 digits) I can tell you the chip type exactly.

Regards

Alex Wenning

wenning.motorsport@t-online.de



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 12:58:19 1998
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Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 18:57:27 +0200
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: home dyno
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Unfortunately I´ve missed the discussion about that home dyno for $40. 
Does anybody know where I can get the tool and where I can get informations?

Regards

Alex.



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 13:56:36 1998
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From: "Fitzgearld, Fredric" <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
To: "diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu " <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 2D Pro-Jection O2 sensor
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 10:39:00 -0700
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All,

I got my 2D Por-jection (502-20) system late last week.  Inside I found 
a bunch of resistors, a PROM, something that that might be a processor 
(a small square chip), and what might be a driver chip.  Holley painted 
over the tops of the 2 chips that were not the PROM.  I'll look into 
getting the numbers, later.

Now, for the question of the day:

Do any of you have a wiring diagram for what plugs into the 6 pin plug?  
I have the heated sensor from the analog system.  What goes between the 
sensor and the ECU?  If the sensor goes directly into the ECU, what pins 
do they go to?

Anyone have the information for the 4D closed loop system?

Thanks, 

FEF

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 14:17:43 1998
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Hey Bruce,
        I was just out with my friend in his 1985 Pontiac TA.  It has a cold
start problem, and there is a slight hesitation when the trottle is applied.
Kinda like a car without the accelarator pump working on the carb.  The car
has 150,000 on it, mods are a Hypertech chip, and a 3 inch Flowmaster cat
back kit.  I found codes 12(self diagnostics?) 34, 54, 12 again.

Any input?  I also will be calling about the burner, again.  TIA

Paul



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 14:49:08 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: 2D Pro-Jection O2 sensor
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 12:45:17 -0700
Encoding: 14 TEXT, 35 UUENCODE
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Fredric,

My 4D should arrive tomorrow or Wednesday.  I can help you then if no one else does...

Mike J.

Fitzgearld, Fredric wrote:
>>(snip)
Anyone have the information for the 4D closed loop system?

Thanks, 

FEF>>


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end


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 14:59:28 1998
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Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 11:59:39 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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To: Diy_efi <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
CC: thormj@iname.com
Subject: Interpolation
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<thormj@iname.com> wrote:
> Solution #2:
> Can anyone provide me with a *quick* 2 point linear interpolation
> (1d map)... and a quick 4 point interpolation (2d map)?
>
> My current code looks like:
> return (x-curve[i-1].x)*(curve[i].y - curve[i-1].y)/
>          (curve[i].x - curve[i-1].x) + curve[i-1].y;
>
> This is for a 68hc11 uC, so the less math the better. :-/

What is that code fragment trying to do?  And why do you have both an x
and a y in each array element?

Here's what GM uses (on a 68xx) to interpolate in a one dimensional
array.  "scale" is usually 16 which means that a 17 byte table maps all
input byte values.  "scale" of 8 allows a 9 byte table.  Other values
are also possible.

typedef unsigned char uchar;

uchar Interpolate(uchar *table, uchar input, uchar scale)
  {
  unsigned int temp;
  uchar whole, fract;

  temp = input * scale;
  whole = temp >> 8;
  fract = temp & 0xff;

  table += whole;

  if (table[0] <= table[1])
    return table[0] + (((table[1] - table[0]) * fract + 0x80) >> 8);
  else
    return table[0] - (((table[0] - table[1]) * fract + 0x80) >> 8);
  }

For a two dimensional array, the above algorithm gets used three times:
once in row n, once in row n + 1, and once more on the previous two
results.


To interpolate or not to interpolate:  The main reason to interpolate is
likely not the increased accuracy.  Instead, interpolating gets rid of a
step function in the output value.  Control algorithms won't work good
when a table lookup doesn't produce a smooth output.

               unsigned long BinToBCD(unsigned long i) {unsigned long t;
Ludis Langens     return i ? (t = BinToBCD(i >> 1), (t << 1) + (i & 1) + 
ludis@cruzers.com            (t + 858993459 >> 2 & 572662306) * 3) : 0;}


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 15:44:13 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 2D Pro-Jection O2 sensor
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 15:43:45 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Fitzgearld, Fredric <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, April 13, 1998 2:38 PM
Subject: 2D Pro-Jection O2 sensor


>All,
>I got my 2D Por-jection (502-20) system late last week.  Inside I found a
bunch of resistors, a PROM, something that that might be a processor (a
small square chip), and what might be a driver chip.  Holley painted over
the tops of the 2 chips that were not the PROM.  I'll look into getting the
numbers, later.
Now, for the question of the day:
>Do any of you have a wiring diagram for what plugs into the 6 pin plug?
>I have the heated sensor from the analog system.  What goes between the
sensor and the ECU?  If the sensor goes directly into the ECU, what pins do
they go to?
>
>Anyone have the information for the 4D closed loop system?
>
>Thanks,
>
>FEF
>
Did the system include a map sensor?...
Inquirin mindless gotta no..
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 17:05:26 1998
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From: "Fitzgearld, Fredric" <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu "
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        Bruce Plecan  <nacelp@bright.net>
Subject: RE: 2D Pro-Jection O2 sensor
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 13:49:00 -0700
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Nope.  This system is definitely not Speed Density.  It uses the TPS and 
tach signal for reference.  The one thing I'm curious about is what the 
O2 sensor controls.  Does it move the whole "map" like the "main" knob 
does?

FEF

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Re: 2D Pro-Jection O2 sensor
Author:  Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]  at MSXGATE
Date:    4/13/98 12:43 PM


-----Original Message-----
From: Fitzgearld, Fredric <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, April 13, 1998 2:38 PM
Subject: 2D Pro-Jection O2 sensor


>All,
>I got my 2D Por-jection (502-20) system late last week.  Inside I found a
bunch of resistors, a PROM, something that that might be a processor (a
small square chip), and what might be a driver chip.  Holley painted over
the tops of the 2 chips that were not the PROM.  I'll look into getting the
numbers, later.
Now, for the question of the day:
>Do any of you have a wiring diagram for what plugs into the 6 pin plug?
>I have the heated sensor from the analog system.  What goes between the
sensor and the ECU?  If the sensor goes directly into the ECU, what pins do
they go to?
>
>Anyone have the information for the 4D closed loop system?
>
>Thanks,
>
>FEF
>
Did the system include a map sensor?...
Inquirin mindless gotta no..
Bruce

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 18:01:19 1998
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Try swapping them into different exhaust ports and see if these numbers 
follow the cylinder or the O2 sensor.
HTH
jw


On Sun, 12 Apr 1998, Thor Johnson wrote:

> I know that they are not terribly accurate for getting exact A/F
> measurements, but I bought 4 sensors the same day, and installed
> them on the four output ports (about 3" down from the engine.  A
> typical line of readings are:
> 
>    0x90  0x92  0x80 0x92 (forgive the hex.... these are
> arbitrary, 0x70 is "stoich")
> 
> Does this mean that Cyl #3 is getting more air than the others (&
> therefore needs more fuel, or needs to have its intake reworked),
> or is this pretty much expected from ordinary $20 "universal
> oxygen sensors"?
> 
> TIA,
> Thor Johnson
> thormj@iname.com
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 19:29:36 1998
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        "'Diy_efi'" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Cc: <thormj@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Interpolation
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 19:30:20 -0400
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> <thormj@iname.com> wrote:
> > Solution #2:
> > Can anyone provide me with a *quick* 2 point linear interpolation
> > (1d map)... and a quick 4 point interpolation (2d map)?
> >
> > My current code looks like:
> > return (x-curve[i-1].x)*(curve[i].y - curve[i-1].y)/
> >          (curve[i].x - curve[i-1].x) + curve[i-1].y;
> >
> > This is for a 68hc11 uC, so the less math the better. :-/


Here is some 68HC11 asm code from Bosch/VW Digifant ECU.....

*--------------------------------------------------------------        
*
*	Simple table lookup for 16 byte table
*
* Entry: B - Index ( 0 to $FF )
*	X - Table address
*
* Exit:	B - Lookup value
*	X - Points to lookup value
*

tbl_lu  LSRB
	LSRB
	LSRB
	LSRB
	ABX
	LDAB    ,X
	RTS


*--------------------------------------------------------------
*	Interpolated table lookup
*
* Entry: B - Table index
*		0 - $F0 for 16 byte table
*		0 - $FF for 17 byte table
*	X - Table address
*
* Exit:	B - Interpolated table lookup
*	A - Zero
*	X - Address of uninterpolated value
*

tbl_itp	PSHB			; Save index
	LSRB			; Divide by 16
	LSRB
	LSRB
	LSRB
	ABX			; Adjust table pointer
	PULB			; Restore index
	JSR	interp		; Interpolate
	CLRA
	RTS



*-------------------------------------------------------------------
*
*	2D interpolation of 16 * 16 table
*
* Entry: A - Table Y (row) 0 to $F0
*	B - Table X (column) 0 to $FF
*	X - Table address
*
* Exit:	B - Interpolated result
*	X - Trashed
*	A - Trashed
*

interp2d			;4AC3
	STAA    tmp3		; Save row
	STAB    tmp4		; Save column
	LSRB			; Divide column by 16
	LSRB
	LSRB
	LSRB
	STAB    tmp1		; Save column/16
	LDAB    tmp3		; Get row
	ANDB    #$F0            ; Mask
	ADDB    tmp1		; Add column
				; B = row/16*16 + column/16
	ABX			; Adjust table address
	LDAA    tmp3		; Get row
	LDAB    tmp4		; Get column
	CMPA    #$F0		; Row at max ??
	BCS     row_ok		; 2D interpolate if not
	LDAA    #$F0		; Limit row to $F0
	CMPB    #$F0		; Column max ??
	BNE     LBL4AE6		; 1D Interpolate if not
	LDAB    $00,X           ; Get uninterpolated value
	BRA     LBL4AE9		; Return
LBL4AE6	JSR     interp		; Interpolate within row
LBL4AE9	BRA     LBL4B10		; Return
row_ok	CMPB    #$F0		; Column max ???
	BNE     col_ok		; 1D interpolate if it is
	LDAA    ,X		; Get low
	STAA    tmp1		; Save
	LDAA    $10,X		; Get high
	STAA    tmp2		; Save
	BRA     LBL4B08		; Interpolate...
col_ok  JSR     interp		; Interpolate row
	STAB    tmp1		; Save
	LDAB    #$10		; Next row
	ABX
	LDAB    tmp4		; Get column (for interp index)
	JSR     interp		; Interpolate row
	STAB    tmp2		; Save
LBL4B08	LDAB    tmp3		; Get row (for interp index)
	LDX     #tmp1		; Interpolate saved values
	JSR     interp
LBL4B10	RTS



*--------------------------------------------------------------
*
*	Interpolation for 16 byte tables
*
*	B = ( ( low * (16-index) ) + ( high * index ) ) / 16
*
* Entry: B - interpolation index, only lowest four bits used
*	[X] - low value
*	[X+1] - high value
*
* Exit: B - interpolated value
*	A - zero (trashed)
*

interp
	ANDB    #$0F		; Use only lowest four bits
	PSHB			; Save for later
	LDAA    1,X		; Get high
	MUL			; high * index
	PSHB			; Save
	PSHA
	LDAA    ,X		; Get low
	PSHX			; Save X
	TSX			; S -> X
	LDAB    4,X		; Get saved index off stack
	SUBB    #$10		; index = 16 - index
	NEGB
	MUL			; low * (16 - index)
	ADDD    2,X		; Add low*(16-index) to (high*index) from stack
	ADDD    #$0008		; Rounding
	LSRD			; Divide by 16
	LSRD
	LSRD
	LSRD
	PULX			; Restore X
	INS			; Cleanup stack
	INS
	INS
	RTS




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 19:29:35 1998
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From: "Kevin Timmerman" <opossum@macatawa.org>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        "'Diy_efi'" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Cc: <thormj@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Interpolation
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 19:30:20 -0400
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> <thormj@iname.com> wrote:
> > Solution #2:
> > Can anyone provide me with a *quick* 2 point linear interpolation
> > (1d map)... and a quick 4 point interpolation (2d map)?
> >
> > My current code looks like:
> > return (x-curve[i-1].x)*(curve[i].y - curve[i-1].y)/
> >          (curve[i].x - curve[i-1].x) + curve[i-1].y;
> >
> > This is for a 68hc11 uC, so the less math the better. :-/


Here is some 68HC11 asm code from Bosch/VW Digifant ECU.....

*--------------------------------------------------------------        
*
*	Simple table lookup for 16 byte table
*
* Entry: B - Index ( 0 to $FF )
*	X - Table address
*
* Exit:	B - Lookup value
*	X - Points to lookup value
*

tbl_lu  LSRB
	LSRB
	LSRB
	LSRB
	ABX
	LDAB    ,X
	RTS


*--------------------------------------------------------------
*	Interpolated table lookup
*
* Entry: B - Table index
*		0 - $F0 for 16 byte table
*		0 - $FF for 17 byte table
*	X - Table address
*
* Exit:	B - Interpolated table lookup
*	A - Zero
*	X - Address of uninterpolated value
*

tbl_itp	PSHB			; Save index
	LSRB			; Divide by 16
	LSRB
	LSRB
	LSRB
	ABX			; Adjust table pointer
	PULB			; Restore index
	JSR	interp		; Interpolate
	CLRA
	RTS



*-------------------------------------------------------------------
*
*	2D interpolation of 16 * 16 table
*
* Entry: A - Table Y (row) 0 to $F0
*	B - Table X (column) 0 to $FF
*	X - Table address
*
* Exit:	B - Interpolated result
*	X - Trashed
*	A - Trashed
*

interp2d			;4AC3
	STAA    tmp3		; Save row
	STAB    tmp4		; Save column
	LSRB			; Divide column by 16
	LSRB
	LSRB
	LSRB
	STAB    tmp1		; Save column/16
	LDAB    tmp3		; Get row
	ANDB    #$F0            ; Mask
	ADDB    tmp1		; Add column
				; B = row/16*16 + column/16
	ABX			; Adjust table address
	LDAA    tmp3		; Get row
	LDAB    tmp4		; Get column
	CMPA    #$F0		; Row at max ??
	BCS     row_ok		; 2D interpolate if not
	LDAA    #$F0		; Limit row to $F0
	CMPB    #$F0		; Column max ??
	BNE     LBL4AE6		; 1D Interpolate if not
	LDAB    $00,X           ; Get uninterpolated value
	BRA     LBL4AE9		; Return
LBL4AE6	JSR     interp		; Interpolate within row
LBL4AE9	BRA     LBL4B10		; Return
row_ok	CMPB    #$F0		; Column max ???
	BNE     col_ok		; 1D interpolate if it is
	LDAA    ,X		; Get low
	STAA    tmp1		; Save
	LDAA    $10,X		; Get high
	STAA    tmp2		; Save
	BRA     LBL4B08		; Interpolate...
col_ok  JSR     interp		; Interpolate row
	STAB    tmp1		; Save
	LDAB    #$10		; Next row
	ABX
	LDAB    tmp4		; Get column (for interp index)
	JSR     interp		; Interpolate row
	STAB    tmp2		; Save
LBL4B08	LDAB    tmp3		; Get row (for interp index)
	LDX     #tmp1		; Interpolate saved values
	JSR     interp
LBL4B10	RTS



*--------------------------------------------------------------
*
*	Interpolation for 16 byte tables
*
*	B = ( ( low * (16-index) ) + ( high * index ) ) / 16
*
* Entry: B - interpolation index, only lowest four bits used
*	[X] - low value
*	[X+1] - high value
*
* Exit: B - interpolated value
*	A - zero (trashed)
*

interp
	ANDB    #$0F		; Use only lowest four bits
	PSHB			; Save for later
	LDAA    1,X		; Get high
	MUL			; high * index
	PSHB			; Save
	PSHA
	LDAA    ,X		; Get low
	PSHX			; Save X
	TSX			; S -> X
	LDAB    4,X		; Get saved index off stack
	SUBB    #$10		; index = 16 - index
	NEGB
	MUL			; low * (16 - index)
	ADDD    2,X		; Add low*(16-index) to (high*index) from stack
	ADDD    #$0008		; Rounding
	LSRD			; Divide by 16
	LSRD
	LSRD
	LSRD
	PULX			; Restore X
	INS			; Cleanup stack
	INS
	INS
	RTS




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 21:12:23 1998
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Just joined the list today. I am putting a 96 LT1 & 4L60E in My 48 Ford daily
driver.  I really mean driver, I have used it to commute for the last three
years and am doing a refresh.

	In my first visit I played with your search engine a little. Enjoyed and
learned from the 240Z transplant thread. I had already figured out the 30 Hz
squarewave for VAT. Several people had advised me to get a 95 computer because
they couldn't delete the aftercat O2 sensors from the 96. I am running near
stock. I am leaving out the Cats, and deleting the air Pump since it has no
value without the Cats. I did get the 95 ECU with factory programming. I am
using the stock Engine Harness. I found after the fact that I should have picked
up the Forward Lamp Harness with the Engine harness. I am still collecting
parts, I won't start the swap till after Carlisle. I bought the factory manuals
and have made a table of the 5 connectors and 44 pins that connect the stock
Engine Harness to the car. The table give the location, color, and function of
each wire.

	The reason for joining the group: EFI is new to me. I have played with cars and
PC's for over 30 years, and I decided it's time to link the 2. I want to do some
simple ECU hacks, like change the Gear ratio, and tire diameter. I could buy a
Hypertech PP+, but what fun is that? I am looking for info on interfaceing a PC
to the diagnostic connector. Then I would like to use it for a Scantool, and
EEprom hacking. I saw the thread that talked about a homebuilt scantool for some
Chrysler products. Does anyone have any info on interfacing to the 95 LT1 ECU?
Does anyone have a protocol document for the ECU serial port? A basic Peek and
Poke command with some information on the location of various tables would get
me started.

		Ken


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 23:01:04 1998
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From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 20:01:40 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Wed, 08 Apr 1998 17:00:31 -0700, garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

>it's a comin,
>honest engine. Give me another week before you tar and feather me for
>dragging my virus-infested butt. Whimper. Man how can such tiny lil
>critters make you feel like sucha pieceOyou-know-what.

Man, that was almost a week ago, and I'm way worse than I was then. What
a sissy! I'm tellin yous man, these virii vermin are kickin me
buttocks!! My doctor wants to hospitalize me if I develop even a hint of
a secondary lung infection; I'm right on the doorstep of viral
pnuemonia! Whimper is right! Crapola, what a BORE.

BUT, do I have good news for YOUS GUYS!!! I got in some quality time
today testing our diy_EGOmeter, and I just got finished sending off a
missive to Frank with the nitty gritty details, but suffice it to say,
it looks like we have a *weiner*. The free-air O2 ion pumping current my
circuit settles at (the so-called free-air calibration point) is only 5%
off from what Frank gets with his NTK sensor and interface box!!!! This
is stunning confirmation that we are go-for-launch, and that the Honda
OEM sensors are indeed essentially the same as the NTK sensors. I
measured 6.3 mA @0.445V, and he (Frank) gets 6.0 mA @ 0.428V. Before you
think them stoich voltages are somewhat different, lemme tell ya that we
discovered there's a real black-hole steep Ip null right at stoich, just
like that cliff-edge part of the conventional Lambda curve. The voltage
of the measurement cell, VsCell, goes along niceNlinearly heading for
stoich, as you crank up the O2 cell current, IpCell, but just as you get
to 0.450V, all hell breaks loose, and even a tiny lil tweak of IpCell,
and you're on the other side of stoich by 200-400mV. So what I'm saying
is that Frank's instrument's feedback loop locks stoich up at 0.428V,
and mine at 0.445V (hey, mine's more precise than NTK's, hee hee;
alright, it's also a tad twitchy at the moment), but for all intents and
purposes, it's smack on the same point in the curve of IpCell vrs.
VsCell. Hence, the free-air calibration currents diff. by only 5%.  You
couldn't ask for a better reassurance that the Honda OEM sensor and the
NTK "special salsa" version are essentially the same, except for their
method/values of embedding CAL resistances. The most important thing is
that since the sensors perform basically identical, we can just plan on
calibrating the boxes each of us build with this "free-air
self-calibration" procedure, and care not a wit about what the internal
CAL Rs are set at, for their various original usage. "We don't need no
stinking CAL Rs", is the bottom line. Besides, as I mentioned to Frank,
use of the CAL Rs also can't compensate for sensor aging nor
deterioration due to lead/dirt contamination, like a self-calibration in
free-air can, so it's better we don't mess with them Rs anyway, eh?

Actually, I have a theory about what the CAL Rs in the Honda sensors
actually are, and will test me hypothesis when I get a couple more, but
the main thing is we aren't dependent on even knowing what they mean,
since the sensors can be self-calibrated in free-air. In fact, this is
THE method of choice for the Horiba boxes, since they don't ship their
sensors with ANY embedded CAL R in the cable. They ASSUME you're going
to self-calibrate it yourself.

I mentioned to Frank that I have a couple tweaks still needed to the
circuit, one to detune the hyperactive feedback; I didn't count on the
Ip vrs Vs relationship being so sensitive near stoich (hence it twitches
on it's way to settling, instead of gracefully landing via a smooth
approach, when you first turn it on), and I need to replace one of the
parts in the "warm-up" circuit with one I've got on order; the current
part doesn't like anything but 12V supply (some times it switches,
sometimes it lounges), and I want the whole thing to function on 5V. But
the bottom line is, at this point, looks like we get our O2 meters
finally! As soon as I get the last tweaks done and everything checked
out completely, I'll post the schematic & parts list up in my group's
aviation DropBox, which I'll post the URL for when the stuff's ready.
Give me another week or so to recover and clean up things, and we can
all go about building a clone of ole diy_hUEGO. [Too bad they don't make
the O2 sensor tips in the shape of a cone; that would be so fitting].

Cheers,
Garfield


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 13 23:38:13 1998
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Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 23:33:29 EDT
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: ?s about EFI conversion using GM ECM
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HI,
I am new to the list, and I have a couple of questions.  I looked thru the
archives but there are so many, I'm sure I missed the answers that must be in
there!
Basically, I am going to try to adapt a GM EFI system to my non-GM engine.  I
was considering using the ever-popular "730" computer.  My engine is a 6-cyl
and I would pull the EFI system from a J-body with a v6.  I would then adjust
the fuel pressure until it was "close" and let the block-learn do the rest.
  I have already looked around and all the harness I can find are hacked.  I
have finally decided that I might just be "lazy" and order a new harness.
There are many aftermarket harnesses for V8 TPI conversions around for as low
as $200 maybe less if I look some more.  One of those, a 730 from the
junkyard, and some new sensors from DAP and I'll be set...maybe.
The questions I have are:
1:  Will a V8 TPI harness function as a 6cyl harness, so long as the 730
computer has the right calibrator, etc.  Or will I have to rearrange all the
wires at the connector?
2:  I will not be attaching anything but the bare essentials to the harness.
In other words, No VSS, EGR, etc.  Just the MAP, Water temp, air temp,and TPS
and HEI.  Will this cause any problems?  The computer can flash error codes
all day long for all I care, just so long as it runs OK.  Or will I have to
buy a chip with all these things disabled (I have NO programming skills)?

TIA,
Adam

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 14 00:40:30 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>, <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: ?s about EFI conversion using GM ECM
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 21:39:22 -0700
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With a 730, the VSS is a must. Oh, it will run, but there are speed
dependent things in the code. Having the VSS connected on a 730 makes a
world of difference. Is this a manual or auto application? Yes, you can run
without a VSS, but once you put one in, you wonder how you lived without it.

The "etc", I don't know.

You will need:

MAP (Mass air flow won't work on a HEI system. It is for a DIS system only
on the 6 cyl.)
TPS
VSS
Temp sender
HEI
IAT (Intake air temp)

Fans, fuel pump control are optional. The Digital or Linear EGR not being
there will require some malfunction flags to be disabled.

VATS may need disabling in the chip. (MAP/SD systems use the Mass input for
Vats).
-----Original Message-----
From: ABTSZ <ABTSZ@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, April 13, 1998 9:11 PM
Subject: ?s about EFI conversion using GM ECM


>HI,
>I am new to the list, and I have a couple of questions.  I looked thru the
>archives but there are so many, I'm sure I missed the answers that must be
in
>there!
>Basically, I am going to try to adapt a GM EFI system to my non-GM engine.
I
>was considering using the ever-popular "730" computer.  My engine is a
6-cyl
>and I would pull the EFI system from a J-body with a v6.  I would then
adjust
>the fuel pressure until it was "close" and let the block-learn do the rest.
>  I have already looked around and all the harness I can find are hacked.
I
>have finally decided that I might just be "lazy" and order a new harness.
>There are many aftermarket harnesses for V8 TPI conversions around for as
low
>as $200 maybe less if I look some more.  One of those, a 730 from the
>junkyard, and some new sensors from DAP and I'll be set...maybe.
>The questions I have are:
>1:  Will a V8 TPI harness function as a 6cyl harness, so long as the 730
>computer has the right calibrator, etc.  Or will I have to rearrange all
the
>wires at the connector?
>2:  I will not be attaching anything but the bare essentials to the
harness.
>In other words, No VSS, EGR, etc.  Just the MAP, Water temp, air temp,and
TPS
>and HEI.  Will this cause any problems?  The computer can flash error codes
>all day long for all I care, just so long as it runs OK.  Or will I have to
>buy a chip with all these things disabled (I have NO programming skills)?
>
>TIA,
>Adam
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 14 00:40:30 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>, <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: ?s about EFI conversion using GM ECM
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 21:39:22 -0700
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With a 730, the VSS is a must. Oh, it will run, but there are speed
dependent things in the code. Having the VSS connected on a 730 makes a
world of difference. Is this a manual or auto application? Yes, you can run
without a VSS, but once you put one in, you wonder how you lived without it.

The "etc", I don't know.

You will need:

MAP (Mass air flow won't work on a HEI system. It is for a DIS system only
on the 6 cyl.)
TPS
VSS
Temp sender
HEI
IAT (Intake air temp)

Fans, fuel pump control are optional. The Digital or Linear EGR not being
there will require some malfunction flags to be disabled.

VATS may need disabling in the chip. (MAP/SD systems use the Mass input for
Vats).
-----Original Message-----
From: ABTSZ <ABTSZ@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, April 13, 1998 9:11 PM
Subject: ?s about EFI conversion using GM ECM


>HI,
>I am new to the list, and I have a couple of questions.  I looked thru the
>archives but there are so many, I'm sure I missed the answers that must be
in
>there!
>Basically, I am going to try to adapt a GM EFI system to my non-GM engine.
I
>was considering using the ever-popular "730" computer.  My engine is a
6-cyl
>and I would pull the EFI system from a J-body with a v6.  I would then
adjust
>the fuel pressure until it was "close" and let the block-learn do the rest.
>  I have already looked around and all the harness I can find are hacked.
I
>have finally decided that I might just be "lazy" and order a new harness.
>There are many aftermarket harnesses for V8 TPI conversions around for as
low
>as $200 maybe less if I look some more.  One of those, a 730 from the
>junkyard, and some new sensors from DAP and I'll be set...maybe.
>The questions I have are:
>1:  Will a V8 TPI harness function as a 6cyl harness, so long as the 730
>computer has the right calibrator, etc.  Or will I have to rearrange all
the
>wires at the connector?
>2:  I will not be attaching anything but the bare essentials to the
harness.
>In other words, No VSS, EGR, etc.  Just the MAP, Water temp, air temp,and
TPS
>and HEI.  Will this cause any problems?  The computer can flash error codes
>all day long for all I care, just so long as it runs OK.  Or will I have to
>buy a chip with all these things disabled (I have NO programming skills)?
>
>TIA,
>Adam
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 14 01:49:30 1998
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Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 22:45:15 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: peter paul fenske <ffnsp955@bcit.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: 1985
In-Reply-To: <199804131817.OAA79100@r02n02.cac.psu.edu>
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Hi Paul

Check your fuel pump rail pressure and bleeddown.
Pump might be going. 
Also there is a MAF error. Check for 0.5v at idle
at the MAF a/d input to the ecm. 
Burnoff is not a relay but a solid state bosch unit
for 85. 

later:peter

At 02:17 PM 4/13/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey Bruce,
>        I was just out with my friend in his 1985 Pontiac TA.  It has a cold
>start problem, and there is a slight hesitation when the trottle is applied.
>Kinda like a car without the accelarator pump working on the carb.  The car
>has 150,000 on it, mods are a Hypertech chip, and a 3 inch Flowmaster cat
>back kit.  I found codes 12(self diagnostics?) 34, 54, 12 again.
>
>Any input?  I also will be calling about the burner, again.  TIA
>
>Paul
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 14 02:01:31 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: peter paul fenske <ffnsp955@bcit.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: ?s about EFI conversion using GM ECM
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Hi Adam

Lots of jcars junk yard full of em
but if you got the money buy a harness.
Yep a V8 will work
You will have to move the serial data pin 
prob one pin over on the A connector if using J car call. If you
use the 3.1 cam cal you won't


If you gnd the PN input to the ecm you don't need VSS
cannister and port air won't work, and egr won't work
and won't be tested.

Oh course it is as TBK says sometimes nicer to run
the whole schebang.

later:peter

At 11:33 PM 4/13/98 EDT, you wrote:
>HI,
>I am new to the list, and I have a couple of questions.  I looked thru the
>archives but there are so many, I'm sure I missed the answers that must be in
>there!
>Basically, I am going to try to adapt a GM EFI system to my non-GM engine.  I
>was considering using the ever-popular "730" computer.  My engine is a 6-cyl
>and I would pull the EFI system from a J-body with a v6.  I would then adjust
>the fuel pressure until it was "close" and let the block-learn do the rest.
>  I have already looked around and all the harness I can find are hacked.  I
>have finally decided that I might just be "lazy" and order a new harness.
>There are many aftermarket harnesses for V8 TPI conversions around for as low
>as $200 maybe less if I look some more.  One of those, a 730 from the
>junkyard, and some new sensors from DAP and I'll be set...maybe.
>The questions I have are:
>1:  Will a V8 TPI harness function as a 6cyl harness, so long as the 730
>computer has the right calibrator, etc.  Or will I have to rearrange all the
>wires at the connector?
>2:  I will not be attaching anything but the bare essentials to the harness.
>In other words, No VSS, EGR, etc.  Just the MAP, Water temp, air temp,and TPS
>and HEI.  Will this cause any problems?  The computer can flash error codes
>all day long for all I care, just so long as it runs OK.  Or will I have to
>buy a chip with all these things disabled (I have NO programming skills)?
>
>TIA,
>Adam
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 14 03:11:33 1998
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Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
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garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

> On Wed, 08 Apr 1998 17:00:31 -0700, garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:
>

<snip>

> BUT, do I have good news for YOUS GUYS!!! I got in some quality time
> today testing our diy_EGOmeter, and I just got finished sending off a
> missive to Frank with the nitty gritty details, but suffice it to say,
> it looks like we have a *weiner*.

<big snip>

Cool,  I'm anxious for the final results....

GT
'72 914-6 2.7


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 14 03:25:57 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy Ganz <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
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Man, you are pumped Garfield! As soon as you get the schematics up, I'll
see about whipping up a nice PCB if people will be interested. Sounds like
you have done quite a bit of work to beat the high $$ meters, and that is
GOOD!

Let me know when you get all the kinks worked out of the circuit, and I'll
take a crack at the PCB for the group.

Sandy


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 14 04:13:51 1998
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garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:
> 
> On Wed, 08 Apr 1998 17:00:31 -0700, garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:
> 
> >it's a comin,
> >honest engine. Give me another week before you tar and feather me for
> >dragging my virus-infested butt. Whimper. Man how can such tiny lil
> >critters make you feel like sucha pieceOyou-know-what.
> 
> Man, that was almost a week ago, and I'm way worse than I was then. What
> a sissy! I'm tellin yous man, these virii vermin are kickin me
> buttocks!! My doctor wants to hospitalize me if I develop even a hint of
> a secondary lung infection; I'm right on the doorstep of viral
> pnuemonia! Whimper is right! Crapola, what a BORE.
> 
> BUT, do I have good news for YOUS GUYS!!! I got in some quality time
> today testing our diy_EGOmeter, and I just got finished sending off a
> missive to Frank with the nitty gritty details, but suffice it to say,
> it looks like we have a *weiner*. The free-air O2 ion pumping current my
> circuit settles at (the so-called free-air calibration point) is only 5%
> off from what Frank gets with his NTK sensor and interface box!!!! This
> is stunning confirmation that we are go-for-launch, and that the Honda
> OEM sensors are indeed essentially the same as the NTK sensors. I
> measured 6.3 mA @0.445V, and he (Frank) gets 6.0 mA @ 0.428V. Before you
> think them stoich voltages are somewhat different, lemme tell ya that we
> discovered there's a real black-hole steep Ip null right at stoich, just
> like that cliff-edge part of the conventional Lambda curve. The voltage
> of the measurement cell, VsCell, goes along niceNlinearly heading for
> stoich, as you crank up the O2 cell current, IpCell, but just as you get
> to 0.450V, all hell breaks loose, and even a tiny lil tweak of IpCell,
> and you're on the other side of stoich by 200-400mV. So what I'm saying
> is that Frank's instrument's feedback loop locks stoich up at 0.428V,
> and mine at 0.445V (hey, mine's more precise than NTK's, hee hee;
> alright, it's also a tad twitchy at the moment), but for all intents and
> purposes, it's smack on the same point in the curve of IpCell vrs.
> VsCell. Hence, the free-air calibration currents diff. by only 5%.  You
> couldn't ask for a better reassurance that the Honda OEM sensor and the
> NTK "special salsa" version are essentially the same, except for their
> method/values of embedding CAL resistances. The most important thing is
> that since the sensors perform basically identical, we can just plan on
> calibrating the boxes each of us build with this "free-air
> self-calibration" procedure, and care not a wit about what the internal
> CAL Rs are set at, for their various original usage. "We don't need no
> stinking CAL Rs", is the bottom line. Besides, as I mentioned to Frank,
> use of the CAL Rs also can't compensate for sensor aging nor
> deterioration due to lead/dirt contamination, like a self-calibration in
> free-air can, so it's better we don't mess with them Rs anyway, eh?
> 
> Actually, I have a theory about what the CAL Rs in the Honda sensors
> actually are, and will test me hypothesis when I get a couple more, but
> the main thing is we aren't dependent on even knowing what they mean,
> since the sensors can be self-calibrated in free-air. In fact, this is
> THE method of choice for the Horiba boxes, since they don't ship their
> sensors with ANY embedded CAL R in the cable. They ASSUME you're going
> to self-calibrate it yourself.
> 
> I mentioned to Frank that I have a couple tweaks still needed to the
> circuit, one to detune the hyperactive feedback; I didn't count on the
> Ip vrs Vs relationship being so sensitive near stoich (hence it twitches
> on it's way to settling, instead of gracefully landing via a smooth
> approach, when you first turn it on), and I need to replace one of the
> parts in the "warm-up" circuit with one I've got on order; the current
> part doesn't like anything but 12V supply (some times it switches,
> sometimes it lounges), and I want the whole thing to function on 5V. But
> the bottom line is, at this point, looks like we get our O2 meters
> finally! As soon as I get the last tweaks done and everything checked
> out completely, I'll post the schematic & parts list up in my group's
> aviation DropBox, which I'll post the URL for when the stuff's ready.
> Give me another week or so to recover and clean up things, and we can
> all go about building a clone of ole diy_hUEGO. [Too bad they don't make
> the O2 sensor tips in the shape of a cone; that would be so fitting].
> 
> Cheers,
> Garfield
This sounds great. Do you need anything done in the way of a user
interface to the output of this?. Ie a processor circuit some LED
displays and software to run same.
Dave

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 14 06:02:46 1998
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Subject: ALDL linking
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Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 12:51:30 +0200
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I connected a scope at the M pins of diacom ALDL connector and set it up for
-87 TPI (my GTA ;). In aldl mode, it sends data to pin M, but does not link
up. The ECM is the early P4 #165, which is supposed to be commanded to 8192bps
mode, but can anyone identify what diacom tries to send from screenshots of
the scope? In 160bps mode all works fine.

Scope pics from diacom pin M @

 http://lenkkari.cs.tut.fi/~gini/aldl.html

first pics are with 0.5ms per grid and the last ones with 1ms and 50ms per 
grid.
Also note the cursors on the images showind time values. Can anyone figure out
the data values it tries to send to the ECM?

thanks,
Michael



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 14 14:21:57 1998
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To: <DIY_EFI@EFI332.ENG.OHIO-STATE.EDU>
Subject: re: HC11 and prop
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Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 14:20:44 -0400
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Tim,

 It may not be any use to you, but you can get a signal off the tach
output of the ignition ECU.
---------------------- Forwarded by John R Bucknell/JTE/Chrysler on
04/14/98 01:32 PM ---------------------------

        owner-diy_efi @ EFI332.ENG.OHIO-STATE.EDU
        04/10/98 05:04 PM
Please respond to diy_efi@EFI332.ENG.OHIO-STATE.EDU @ SMTP
To: DIY_EFI @ EFI332.ENG.OHIO-STATE.EDU @ SMTP
cc:
Subject: HC11 and prop

Greetings!

I am laying out an HC11 board for use as a datalogger on a motorcycle
initially, and as a programmable ignition at some point down the road.
The ignition will use some sort of Hall effect sensor to determine crank
position.

I wanted to use a simple inductive pickup around a spark plug wire to
pick up an RPM signal. There are a couple of problems here. On our new
GSXR the coils are incorporated in the spark plug caps, so no plug wires
with the big inductive collapse. The coil/cap thing is new to
motorcycles but has been on cars for a while, I understand. Has anybody
figured out how to measure ignition pulses without splicing into an
ignition wire(something known to cause problems, at least with motorbike
digital ignitions), or resorting to building a box to split and amplify
ignition signals.What kind of noise precautions are necessary when
measuring inductive collapse? What effect do the other(three) plugs
have?

I could install a separate Hall effect sensor to read a camshaft bolt,
or use the stock sensor(mounted on the countershaft), but the question
intrigued me.

On an unrelated topic, the use of isopropyl alcohol as a fuel
additive/oxygenator has come to my attention. Does anybody know the
ratio, and what percentage jet increases would be necessary? We are an
endurance team looking for an edge, so any help would be greatly
appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Tim Gooding
  Army of Darkness Racing
  Smithsonian Institution


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 14 14:58:31 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
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Yo, where do I sign up for a PCB ?  Sandy if and when this happens I'm a 
definite yes.
thanks
jw


On Tue, 14 Apr 1998, Sandy Ganz wrote:

> 
> Man, you are pumped Garfield! As soon as you get the schematics up, I'll
> see about whipping up a nice PCB if people will be interested. Sounds like
> you have done quite a bit of work to beat the high $$ meters, and that is
> GOOD!
> 
> Let me know when you get all the kinks worked out of the circuit, and I'll
> take a crack at the PCB for the group.
> 
> Sandy
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 14 18:55:07 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 15:55:41 -0700
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On Tue, 14 Apr 1998 00:22:48 +0100, Sandy Ganz <sganz@wgn.net> wrote:

>Man, you are pumped Garfield! As soon as you get the schematics up, I'll
>see about whipping up a nice PCB if people will be interested. Sounds like
>you have done quite a bit of work to beat the high $$ meters, and that is
>GOOD!

Yeah, I'm pretty jazzed, mainly cuz I want one of these REAL ego meters
to use, meself!

But nah, not really much work (and no, I'm not the modest type); Frank
Parker supplied a tremendously complete set of intel for the whole
operation, so it was just a matter of piecing his SAE info, private
intel, and inputs from several of yous guys together. Him also being in
possession of an NTK sensor and interface box (and NO, he NEVER broke
seals and opened the thing up to look inside; they're toooo eXpensive to
do that!!), and being able to watch it's behavior and run I/O tests on
his end, was another key to fast closure on several issues/questions
that came up in the process.

>Let me know when you get all the kinks worked out of the circuit, and I'll
>take a crack at the PCB for the group.

OK, eXcellent! It'll be real soon. I've already detuned the feedback
path and now it settles tamely, but I now see why the NTK "stoich"
offsets Frank was seeing are seemingly so "large". Like, his one box
seems to always stabilize at VsCell = 0.428V instead of the target
0.450V, and at first glance that seems significant, until you find that
this diff. of 22milliVolts represents a Ip pumping current change around
stoich of a few microAmps. Vewy sensitive! The way we should look at
this is, anything between say 0.420 and 0.480 is still eXtremely,
exquisitely tightly locked in "on stoich", so with the feedback detuned,
I now settle at around 0.435V instead of 0.445V. The difference is still
WAY down in the noise, but it doesn't "twitch" around stoich, like it
did before. So that's one down, and one minor one to go.

The other remaining thing to confirm as working properly is just
basically a switch that stops the Ip pump from operating until the
sensor warms up and it's output has had a chance to cross over to the
lean side of stoich (remember, we're powering up in essentially free
air), before turning on the ion pump to pump us back up to stoich. This
is such a dirt simple part of the circuit, that I expect it will take me
10 mins to confirm proper working of the switch, and that's it. The
hysteresis in the mechanism has already been tested, and works fine;
it's only the current switches I'm using that don't work reliably on 5V
Vdd. The new ones coming from Analog Devices are guaranteed to work on
5V, so I think that's a no-brainer. Once they arrive and that checking
is done, it's off to the Black Forest to put the Elves to work. I can't
imagine the parts costing more than about $30, eXcluding the O2 sensor.
Once I build a couple more to confirm they're repeatably cloneable, we
oughta see what kinda deal we can get with Honda for a group buy of the
sensors. Since anyone can get them in one-zies for $130 from their local
dealer, I'll bet we could easily get them below $100 if we bought a
couple dozen at a wack. That would put the total cost below most of them
El Cheapo meters. I love it!

One thing I do need to point out, tho, for due diligence sake, is that
we haven't yet tested the whole thang all the way from filthy rich to
bone lean, nor will I be able to send my proto back to Frank for a
side-by-side calibration/comparison with his NTK boxNsensor, until I get
them AD switches. Yeah, that's really the very NEXT thing to do, once I
get the parts, is send the proto to Frank for a sanity check &
comparison, and built say two more to confirm repeatibility. If it
passes both THOSE tests, we're truly home free.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 14 18:55:08 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 15:55:43 -0700
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On Tue, 14 Apr 1998 18:15:02 +1000, David Chambers
<dchamber@pronet.net.au> wrote:

>This sounds great. Do you need anything done in the way of a user
>interface to the output of this?. Ie a processor circuit some LED
>displays and software to run same.

Hey Dave.

Yeah, we discussed this earlier, and because some will be logging data,
while others will want to incorporate these lil beasties into their
custom ECUs for such things as WOT closed-loop, etc., and some will just
wanna build a visual meter, what I was assuming we'd do is start with a
basic "interface", like what NTK sells. Then, depending on what people's
application is, the rest can be layered atop that "interface".

I'll give ya an example: whilst Horiba does a two-segment piecewise
linear curve to completely linearize their output over the AFR range
(this, for example, is just one of the myriad tid-bits Frank passed
along to me), NTK has chosen to simply output their Ip pump current
values, which ARE directly relatable to AFR, but the curve of Ip vrs.
AFR has two diff. linear slopes depending on lean or rich side of
stoich. That's the basics of how the instrument/circuitry works, so they
just pass that on out to the user. This makes best sense if you're gonna
be tieing a micro to the interface anyway for control or gui purposes,
where as Horiba's full linearization DOES allow one to hook up a data
logger directly to it and go instantly.

But all's I'm gonna provide is the schematic & ops of the basic
interface, so it'll look a lot like the NTK box, concept wise. That
seems to be the most versatile and all-round best way to go. From their,
the factions of usage might coagulate around further ideas for the
additional layers, but we'll all decide that as a group or groups, like
everything else like that.

That's my take on the situation; once the egg's been laid, everybody's
free to hatch it which ever way they want. BTW, the schematic will be
copyrighted by our non-profit aviation group "AirSIG, Inc.", and freely
available to anyone to use, eXcept for commercial eXploitation without
written permission. This is done solely to keep someone from sucking up
on our labors, and milking it as a cash cow. That's also how we've
handled the EFI & IGN circuits our aviation group has developed for our
eXperimental aviation engines. Kinda like the Free Software Foundation
idea that gave us Gnu, if you're familiar with that.

Garfield


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 14 20:36:14 1998
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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
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I'd be interested in the schematics when you are done.
Check out this page and let me know what you think.

http://www.students.tut.fi/~eppu/dev/EGO-bar.html

Jason G.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 14 20:37:15 1998
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I'd be interested in the schematics when you are done.
Check out this page and let me know what you think.

http://www.students.tut.fi/~eppu/dev/EGO-bar.html

Jason G.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 14 22:26:06 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 11:38:35 +0000
Subject: Re: How consistent are stock EGO sensors?
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Thor

Mix them up and try again.  A couple of times rotating the sensors to 
different cylinders and recording what sensor is in what cyl should 
give a good idea of whether its the sensor or the cylinder.

Bob McKnight
Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 14 23:12:09 1998
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Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 22:36:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Output of distributer's magnetic pickup
Message-ID: <19980414.230744.12726.3.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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From: cosmic.ray@juno.com (Raymond C Drouillard)
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On Sat, 11 Apr 1998 19:05:47 -1000 "Paul E. Bueltmann III"
<paulb3@gte.net> writes:
>Bruce Plecan wrote:
>> 
>> ----Original Message-----
>> From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@juno.com>
>> To: fsj@digest.net <fsj@digest.net>; fsj-list@unix.off-road.com
>> <fsj-list@unix.off-road.com>; diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>> <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>> Date: Saturday, April 11, 1998 1:16 AM
>> Subject: Output of distributer's magnetic pickup
>> 
>> >I have a Motorcraft Duraspark ignition in my '89 Grand Wagoneer.  I
am
>> >trying to use a seven-pin GM ignition module so that I can control
the
>> >spark timing with the Holley Pro-Jection 4Di box.  I want to trigger
the
>> >GM module with the pickup coil output of the Motorcraft distributer.
>> >
>> >The seven-pin module is the one that is used in the GM HEI (High
Energy
>> >Ignition) systems - both coil-in-cap and the external coil module.
>> >
>> >This is rather obscure info, but maybe someone can help me.
>> >
>> >1) What is the voltage output of the ignition pickup coil that is
used
>> >for the Motorcraft Duraspark?
>> >
>> >2) What voltage is required to trigger the GM module?
>> >
>> >Do you know of anyone who has used a Motorcraft distributer to
trigger a
>> >GM module?
>> >
>> >Ray Drouillard
>
>I measured the voltage at the pins on a napa echlin tp49 7 pin and
>measured 3 volts at low rpm and 5 volts at the high rpm don't know if I
>was measuring from the right pins. The pins I used were the b pin and +
>pin on the 3 wire side.
>
>later paulb3@gte.net
>

Thanks for going to the trouble of measuring your module.  I think you
have a different module, though.

The module I have has five pins on one side and two on the other.  The
"two pin" side goes to the coil.  Three pins on the "five pin" side go to
the ECM (signal out, signal in, and a 5v level that will cause the ECM to
be bypassed if it's missing).  The other two pins go to the magnetic
pickup coil in the distributer.  I'm trying to feed the signal from a
Motorcraft Duraspark distributer into those two pins.  I tried both
polarities.

I would measure the voltage myself, but I don't have access to a 'scope.

Ray Drouillard

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 03:20:22 1998
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Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 01:07:37 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Raymond C Drouillard wrote:
> 
> <snip>
> The module I have has five pins on one side and two on the other.  The
> "two pin" side goes to the coil.  Three pins on the "five pin" side go to
> the ECM (signal out, signal in, and a 5v level that will cause the ECM to
> be bypassed if it's missing).  The other two pins go to the magnetic
> pickup coil in the distributer.  I'm trying to feed the signal from a
> Motorcraft Duraspark distributer into those two pins.  I tried both
> polarities.
> 
> I would measure the voltage myself, but I don't have access to a 'scope.
> 
> Ray Drouillard
> 
I seem to remember that 5-7VAC is enough to trigger the
module.  If you have a DVOM you can measure the voltage from
the distributor.  

Do you have the module powered up?  One of the wires from
the coil is ign+ to turn on the module, the other is coil-.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 04:31:19 1998
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My latest trip to the salvage yard I came across these two GM computers
a gm pt# 1612759 and pt# 1612231 both were missing the donar cars and I
was wondering if these computers worth getting or not.

thanks paulb3@gte.net

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 12:12:34 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 09:27:11 +0000
Subject: Re: Output of distributer's magnetic pickup
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Ray

You might try using the old 4 pin HEI module to start.  I have been 
intending to find more info on the five and seven pin modules but 
haven't.  I have no idea about the motorcraft distributors,  I like 
the HEI mostly because it works, its cheap and plentiful.  You might 
look at the possibility of modifing one of the many HEI bodies to fit 
your engine.  

Bob McKnight
Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 14:48:27 1998
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Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 13:48:19 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Gregory A. Parmer" <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
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I'm missing a great deal of background
info, so here are a few real simple quick 
questions.

I think a good portion of my problem is
mixed terminology used on the list. The LM1949
is a "injector driver" chip, but it's not
really what I consider the "driver". The
LM1949 just controls the transistor that 
actually sinks the current, no?  So
what should I call the transistor? To me
it's the driver.  Enlighten me.

With that said, I'm wanting to know the function
of several parts in the '747. It has 4 discreet
transistors which I would assume are drivers 
and one other multi-pin heat sunk part in the middle
of the board. Is that the infamous quad-driver?
Which of these 5 parts control outputs from the
ECM?

A pointer to the appropriate URL for beginners would
be most acceptable too. If there ain't one, there
can be soon.  :)

BTW--Count me in on the '747 project. Searching for
"101" in the archives did turn up plenty of much 
useful info.

-greg



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 14:57:27 1998
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From: "Scott Flanagan" <flanagan@worldnet.att.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
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When the project is ready, I could make an HTML tutorial of the entire
construction of the sensor box, where we can always have help for those
making it and we can even put people's add-ons for interfacing up there.
Let me know if anyone is interested in this idea?


                    -Scott Flanagan


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 15:24:40 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: GM 1227747 ECM drivers
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 12:25:17 -0700
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On Wed, 15 Apr 1998 13:48:19 -0500 (CDT), "Gregory A. Parmer"
<gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu> wrote:

>I think a good portion of my problem is
>mixed terminology used on the list. The LM1949
>is a "injector driver" chip, but it's not
>really what I consider the "driver". The
>LM1949 just controls the transistor that 
>actually sinks the current, no?  So
>what should I call the transistor? To me
>it's the driver.  Enlighten me.

Well, I'll nose in here. You're right, the terms aren't so tidy. If you
was in the trade, you'd probly still call the LM1949 the "injector
driver" because it does all the smarts, and opt for refering to the
outboard current amp simply as the "external Darlington". Then
everyone's clear.

Don't worry about it too much. When language fails us, we can always
point and say "this thang here".

Garfield


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 15:31:20 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: 2D Pro-Jection O2 sensor
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 13:27:32 -0700
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My 4D arrived today.  Can't help too much I'm afraid, but on the 4D the 02 
sensor plugs directly into the ECU (via the harness, of course, but there 
is no other interface of any type)  I imagine the 2D is the same, but 
you'll have to figure out which wire goes where.  (The 4d has a 36 pin 
connector)  Holley may be willing to help you answer that one.  If not you 
should be able to reason what's what.

Is the 2D as heavily potted as the 4D is?  You can't see anything except 
one PROM and a couple of regulators w/o/ ruining the potting.


>>Fredric Fitzgearld wrote:

All,

I got my 2D Por-jection (502-20) system late last week.  Inside I found
a bunch of resistors, a PROM, something that that might be a processor
(a small square chip), and what might be a driver chip.  Holley painted
over the tops of the 2 chips that were not the PROM.  I'll look into
getting the numbers, later.

Now, for the question of the day:

Do any of you have a wiring diagram for what plugs into the 6 pin plug?
I have the heated sensor from the analog system.  What goes between the
sensor and the ECU?  If the sensor goes directly into the ECU, what pins
do they go to?

Anyone have the information for the 4D closed loop system?

Thanks,

FEF>>


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M@"GA;BE@)X %L"TA<D@&\&QE(= `P"'08N\EL /P&X +@&<P(B.#+W%O+)$#
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M("G!+?-B0_\N<C=1-O$EL#@2)9) DC>R\R^B''!O:R?$"H5/<$/#>26#;G4&
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M;>8A\?YC'' 1\"* :?$CL%F4@$T;,J `<&LID3KL1D5&_T_?2>I5-5*O4[\+
M514"57T+"H4<`0"-\ ```P`0$ `````#`!$0`@```$ `!S! .'8&IVB]`4 `
H"#! .'8&IVB]`1X`/0`!````!0```%)%.B ``````P`--/TW``#W[FB]
`
end


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 15:36:45 1998
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From: Jason Greene <verde1@us.ibm.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Message-ID: <5040200014027305000002L052*@MHS>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 15:39:57 -0400
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I'm very interested.

Jason G.

When the project is ready, I could make an HTML tutorial of the entire
construction of the sensor box, where we can always have help for those
making it and we can even put people's add-ons for interfacing up there.
Let me know if anyone is interested in this idea?


                    -Scott Flanagan



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 16:06:07 1998
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From: "Peter Shoebridge" <peter@zeecube.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Ford PROMS (unsorted)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 14:04:38 -0600
Message-ID: <000501bd68a9$b880ea60$c7c7c7c7@pjs>
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Hey Fred,

What happened to the file? Did you take the zip off-line?

Peter

-----Original Message-----
From:	owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu] On Behalf Of Frederic
Breitwieser
Sent:	Thursday, April 09, 1998 9:24 PM
To:	diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:	Ford PROMS (unsorted)

I unfortunately couldn't get my drive working correctly, so I had to place
the 88MB archive online as an 88MB ZIP file.

	ftp://xephic.dynip.com/outgoing/ford/c96d.zip

If your transfer is slow, its because multiple people are trying for it...
and being a cheapo kinda guy, I only have 128KB line to the internet.

Cheers,


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 16:36:24 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 13:37:01 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
Message-ID: <3563188f.51967781@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
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On Wed, 15 Apr 1998 14:56:21 -0400, "Scott Flanagan"
<flanagan@worldnet.att.net> wrote:

>When the project is ready, I could make an HTML tutorial of the entire
>construction of the sensor box, where we can always have help for those
>making it and we can even put people's add-ons for interfacing up there.
>Let me know if anyone is interested in this idea?

IMNSHO, this is an eXcellent idea/offer! I'll prepare an ops description
of the circuit internals, so if someone wants to do some further mods,
this could also speed their learning curve. Nuthin complicated about the
circuit, and even if you don't want to do mods, it's still nice to
see/understand how it works. Don't have to be an EE to enjoy that part
of it, eh? Maybe a family tree of mutant diy_EGOs will sprout from this,
um, fertile ground. Heh. Now if Newark would just deliver my one
remaining errant part, we could launch the party! (sound of foot-tapping
in the background).

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 17:50:28 1998
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From: "A.HOLLEY" <holley@zeta.org.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 07:45:27 +-1000
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BD690B.A1B51D80
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dont know how to tell you people this , but there is a kit available =
from one of the local electronics chains here in Aus of a very similar =
device.
Comes with PCB and all components except case and EGO sensor.
Fitted one in my XJS Jag about a yr ago.
Works like a charm. And all for $15 Aus.


----------

------ =_NextPart_000_01BD690B.A1B51D80
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BD690B.A1B51D80--


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 19:02:23 1998
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From: ABTSZ <ABTSZ@aol.com>
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Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 19:01:46 EDT
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Mime-Version: 1.0
Subject: J-bodies and DIS
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Hi,
I am going to try and modify the system from a J-body v6 '87-'89 to work on my
car, a non-GM 6 cyl.
I've been looking thru manuals at the library and I have a few questions:
1:  I was surprised to find that ALL j-body V-6s use DIS.  From looking at the
diagrams, it seems that the DIS systems work some what on their own, and that
the only interaction with the ECM is the same as would be the case with a
7-pin HEI module.  In other words, I could do away with the DIS (which would
require a crankshaft signal) and wire it up to a HEI module, and the computer
will still function.  In other words (again) the Sync signal from the
crankshaft goes to the DIS module, but doesn't go to the ECM.  The DIS module
just sends a regular pulse to the ECM, exactly as a HEI module would.  Do you
know if this is correct?  (my car already incorporates a 4-pin HEI module so
putting in a 7-pin would be pretty much Plug-n-Play.)

2:  I could find no reference to a VATS module in any of the wiring diagrams I
saw, so maybe those models (87-89 j-body v6 w/ 7730 ECM) don't use it.  That
would be a plus!  Of course this information may be wrong, Does anybody know
otherwise?

Thanks for any info,
Adam

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 19:14:27 1998
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From: Jason Greene <verde1@us.ibm.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Message-ID: <5040200014037601000002L012*@MHS>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 19:17:41 -0400
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What is the name and number of the company you are talking about?

Jason G.


Dont know how to tell you people this , but there is a kit available from one
of the local electronics chains here in Aus of a very similar device.
Comes with PCB and all components except case and EGO sensor.
Fitted one in my XJS Jag about a yr ago.
Works like a charm. And all for $15 Aus.


----------

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 19:34:15 1998
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From: "Fitzgearld, Fredric" <fredric.fitzgearld@intel.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu' "
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        Mike Jones 
	 <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
Subject: RE: 2D Pro-Jection O2 sensor
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 16:14:00 -0700
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Thanks anyway...

The 2D has a 6 pin connector that the sensor plugs into.  I guess I need 
to find someone that has the closed loop "add-on" for the 1 or 2 barrel 
system.  I know that the sensor needs at least 3 of them.  If in fact 
only 3 pins are used I'm sure I can figure out which wire goes where.  
That in the world would the other wires be for???

I have about 3 chips.  All the tops are painted so I can't get the codes 
off them.  I do wish there was a way to reprogram it, though.



FEF
____________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RE: 2D Pro-Jection O2 sensor
Author:  Mike Jones [SMTP:rmjones@cyberhighway.net]  at MSXGATE
Date:    4/15/98 1:27 PM


My 4D arrived today.  Can't help too much I'm afraid, but on the 4D the 02
sensor plugs directly into the ECU (via the harness, of course, but there is
no
other interface of any type)  I imagine the 2D is the same, but you'll have
to
figure out which wire goes where.  (The 4d has a 36 pin connector)  Holley
may
be willing to help you answer that one.  If not you should be able to reason
what's what.

Is the 2D as heavily potted as the 4D is?  You can't see anything except one
PROM and a couple of regulators w/o/ ruining the potting.


>>Fredric Fitzgearld wrote:

All,

I got my 2D Por-jection (502-20) system late last week.  Inside I found
a bunch of resistors, a PROM, something that that might be a processor
(a small square chip), and what might be a driver chip.  Holley painted
over the tops of the 2 chips that were not the PROM.  I'll look into
getting the numbers, later.

Now, for the question of the day:

Do any of you have a wiring diagram for what plugs into the 6 pin plug?
I have the heated sensor from the analog system.  What goes between the
sensor and the ECU?  If the sensor goes directly into the ECU, what pins
do they go to?

Anyone have the information for the 4D closed loop system?

Thanks,

FEF>>

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 20:53:17 1998
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Not a bad idea, can anyone verify if this is feasible with the Chev TPI as well.

Dan     dzorde@geocities.com

>Well, I did it.  I purchased a Holley 4D system for my 351W-powered boat.
>
>I've changed my mind (again) and will try and fit the O2 sensor somehow. 
> Question:  My EGR port (Edelbrock Performer manifold) is blanked off.  A 
>perhaps stupid question, but does anyone have a feel for whether  there 
>would be enough 'fresh' exhaust (now there's a concept), perhaps due to 
>firing order pulsation, that sensing the EGR port for O2 content would 
>work?  My own intuition is telling me to try and figure out a more 
>conventional solution...
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike Jones
>
>
>Attachment Converted: C:\PROGRA~1\EUDORA\INFILES\WINMAIL.DAT
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 20:53:25 1998
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Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 20:53:23 -0400 (EDT)
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
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> 
> Dont know how to tell you people this , but there is a kit available from one
> of the local electronics chains here in Aus of a very similar device.
> Comes with PCB and all components except case and EGO sensor.
> Fitted one in my XJS Jag about a yr ago.
> Works like a charm. And all for $15 Aus.
> 
That kit is nothing more than a simple meter to monitor a std O2 sensor
which we all should know by now is of limited usefullness is determining
actual a/f.

frank parker
> 
> ----------
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 20:56:42 1998
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Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 19:44:45 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: RE: Ford PROMS (unsorted)
In-Reply-To: <000501bd68a9$b880ea60$c7c7c7c7@pjs>
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>What happened to the file? Did you take the zip off-line?

Not at all... I did one better :)

If you go to:

	ftp://xephic.dynip.com/

You'll get a list of available "virtual" directories, and you can download
the stuff.  I unzipped it so there is a lot of "stuff" to download, however
I felt this was better than people trying to pull down an 88MB file.
Several people tried, and lost the download just before it finished.  If
you use something like WSFTP or FTP Pro, etc, it makes it much easier to
download the entire directory.

I installed a 3 gig drive, moved some of the FTP outgoing stuff, making
room for a bigger swap file.  The original 1 gig didn't cut it :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 21:00:30 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BD6926.804940C0
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Hi all,

I think He means Jaycar Electronics, +61-2-9743-6144. They are a =
hobbyist store and stock a few nice automotive kits. They have an EGO =
kit (about AUS$20) with a line of coloured LEDs that connects to your =
EGO sensor. Some people install them in their cars and have a visual =
indication of their mixtures.  Been meaning to build the thing just no =
time :-(=20

Also, an older catalogue  (1996) shows a PC driven EGO analyser as well =
as a a 3 LED (lean, good, rich) version of the above.=20

Also, Id like to introduce myself to the list having recently. I have a =
Holden Commodore (Aus GM) with a 3800 GM V6. I have had a go at hacking =
the ECU (16131578 Service number 01227808), 16kB eeprom. Another fellow =
on the list gave me a hand at first (HI Peter and thanks) and i've =
managed to get a lot of the routines and calibration constants out. =
Forced induction is a possible scenario in the future.=20

Cheers all,

Peter




----------
From: 	Jason Greene
Sent: 	Thursday, April 16, 1998 9:17 AM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	RE: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)

What is the name and number of the company you are talking about?

Jason G.


Dont know how to tell you people this , but there is a kit available =
from one
of the local electronics chains here in Aus of a very similar device.
Comes with PCB and all components except case and EGO sensor.
Fitted one in my XJS Jag about a yr ago.
Works like a charm. And all for $15 Aus.


----------


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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 18:12:08 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Thu, 16 Apr 1998 07:45:27 +-1000, "A.HOLLEY" <holley@zeta.org.au>
wrote:

>Dont know how to tell you people this , but there is a kit available from one of the local electronics chains here in Aus of a very similar device.
>Comes with PCB and all components except case and EGO sensor.
>Fitted one in my XJS Jag about a yr ago.
>Works like a charm. And all for $15 Aus.

Golly, is there a lotto in Oz? Cuz if you got one of them circuits,
which is dollars-to-donuts a O2 sensor voltage to LED/whatever meter
circuit, to "work like a charm" for ya, you need to go down to the lotto
office RIGHT NOW, and get some tickets!

That company, BTW, (does the name Dick Smith ring a bell?), if it's the
major one I'm thinking of, is a major boon to you aussies; electronics
experimentation and kit building like they support has long since died
in the US. I was overjoyed to get my first catalog from them (yes, they
will take phone orders...I've done it, so it's no speculation...long
distance from the US and NOT waste your time on the phone), they handle
the monetary exchange just fine, and will put you on their catalog/flyer
mailing list, all the way from OZ !! I kid you not. They even have
serious, state-of-the-art radio receivers in kit form, you'd not find
ANYWHERE in the US.

But as far as an "equivalent" O2 meter for real, "well Virginia", as we
say in the states, "...". It's not their fault. It was the best ANYBODY
could do, reading the O2 sensor voltage directly from a conventional
lambda sensor element, and trying to do something reasonable with it.
Every aftermarket company like MSD followed suit, but THEY charged you
$200 for something you could have built for $15 in parts, had you known
what was in it.

Well, now the neat thang is you CAN build one like a kit, only costing a
few bucks more (course the O2 sensor's still a tad pricey, heh), and can
REALLY use it as a measurement device. This isn't due to clever
circuitry/wizardry, so much as it's due to this new technology of
current-pump-mode 5-wire sensors.

As a talisman on the viability of this $15 wonder from the land of Oz,
just riddle me this; is the sensor it uses, 1-wire, 2-wire, 4-wire, or
5-wire. If it's anything but the last, and only costs $15 to build, it's
a myth the likes of Sisyphus.

Garfield the Septic Skeptic (refering to my vile viral guests, of
course)

P.S. Have you ever had your smog check station check the AFR numbers you
read on your Jag's O2 meter? Not getting on yer case, AH, just wondering
what your level of experience with these thangs is. Call me snoopy.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 22:01:31 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 19:02:07 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
Message-ID: <35776580.71664046@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
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On Thu, 16 Apr 1998 10:57:50 +1000, Peter Jaramaz
<pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au> wrote:

>Also, Id like to introduce myself to the list having recently....

Hi Peter. Welcome to our crazy bunch of wackos. (self-incrimination).

I think you'll be happy with our latest doozle on the O2 meter problem.
Same cost to build, better stuff. Heh. I expect there'll be a group buy
on the sensors that will lower the cost of the "main organ"
considerably.

Garfield


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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: J-bodies and DIS
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 19:31:40 -0700
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-----Original Message-----
From: ABTSZ <ABTSZ@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, April 15, 1998 4:54 PM
Subject: J-bodies and DIS


Yep! Use 90-91 Camaro V6 wiring diagram. Speed Density (Map)

>I've been looking thru manuals at the library and I have a few questions:
>1:  I was surprised to find that ALL j-body V-6s use DIS.  From looking at
the
>diagrams, it seems that the DIS systems work some what on their own, and
that
>the only interaction with the ECM is the same as would be the case with a
>7-pin HEI module.  In other words, I could do away with the DIS (which
would
>require a crankshaft signal) and wire it up to a HEI module, and the
computer
>will still function.  In other words (again) the Sync signal from the
>crankshaft goes to the DIS module, but doesn't go to the ECM.  The DIS
module
>just sends a regular pulse to the ECM, exactly as a HEI module would.  Do
you
>know if this is correct?  (my car already incorporates a 4-pin HEI module
so
>putting in a 7-pin would be pretty much Plug-n-Play.)
>
>2:  I could find no reference to a VATS module in any of the wiring
diagrams I
>saw, so maybe those models (87-89 j-body v6 w/ 7730 ECM) don't use it.
That
>would be a plus!  Of course this information may be wrong, Does anybody
know
>otherwise?
>
>Thanks for any info,
>Adam
>
The J cars with Mass can not use Vats because they use the same input. As I
said, Mass/Vats/and DIS go together in J cars and Map/HEI/No-Vats go in
Camaro's. Both use 7730.

Email mail me directly for all of the info you need. And listen to Mr.
Fenske.

See ya!

TK


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 22:34:18 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GM 1227747 ECM drivers
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 19:33:13 -0700
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Or call it the "Johnson valve".

>Don't worry about it too much. When language fails us, we can always
>point and say "this thang here".
>
>Garfield
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 22:42:45 1998
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Message-ID: <353572F9.25FE@huron.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 22:54:49 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
References: <01BD690B.A1B51D80@d85.syd1.zeta.org.au>
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A.HOLLEY wrote:
> 
> Dont know how to tell you people this , but there is a kit available from one of the local electronics chains here in Aus of a very similar device.
> Comes with PCB and all components except case and EGO sensor.
> Fitted one in my XJS Jag about a yr ago.
> Works like a charm. And all for $15 Aus.
> 
> ----------
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
>                 Part 1.2       Type: application/ms-tnef
>                            Encoding: base64

I would be willing to bet it uses a standard EGO - lot's of the beasties
available here as well but basically useless as a calibration tool - not
accurate at all. I could be wrong - Oz is a long ways from here - but
double check - what kind of sensor does it use? If it hasn't got an ion
pump, forget it mate.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 22:47:30 1998
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Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 22:45:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Ford PROMS (unsorted)
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> If you go to:
> 
> 	ftp://xephic.dynip.com/
> 
> You'll get a list of available "virtual" directories, and you can download
> the stuff.  I unzipped it so there is a lot of "stuff" to download, however
> I felt this was better than people trying to pull down an 88MB file.
> Several people tried, and lost the download just before it finished.  If
> you use something like WSFTP or FTP Pro, etc, it makes it much easier to
> download the entire directory.

i think i have to do a visit down there (in your server),how busy is your
system between midnight and 8 O'Clock in the morning ???

also,what's the size of the directory holding the files ( if 88 MB
zipped,should be about 176 unzipped ???)

Alain Toussaint



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 22:56:12 1998
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References: <01BD690B.A1B51D80@d85.syd1.zeta.org.au> <35715632.67746937@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
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Don't lock and throw away the key on standard heated  O2's . I still
maintain that a heated O2 can be built to give fairly good results and
remember they are cheap and can be found every where.  Glad you got that
O2 going looking forward to build the new meter in time .

Steve

garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

> On Thu, 16 Apr 1998 07:45:27 +-1000, "A.HOLLEY" <holley@zeta.org.au>
> wrote:
>
> >Dont know how to tell you people this , but there is a kit available
> from one of the local electronics chains here in Aus of a very similar
> device.
> >Comes with PCB and all components except case and EGO sensor.
> >Fitted one in my XJS Jag about a yr ago.
> >Works like a charm. And all for $15 Aus.
>
> Golly, is there a lotto in Oz? Cuz if you got one of them circuits,
> which is dollars-to-donuts a O2 sensor voltage to LED/whatever meter
> circuit, to "work like a charm" for ya, you need to go down to the
> lotto
> office RIGHT NOW, and get some tickets!
>
> That company, BTW, (does the name Dick Smith ring a bell?), if it's
> the
> major one I'm thinking of, is a major boon to you aussies; electronics
>
> experimentation and kit building like they support has long since died
>
> in the US. I was overjoyed to get my first catalog from them (yes,
> they
> will take phone orders...I've done it, so it's no speculation...long
> distance from the US and NOT waste your time on the phone), they
> handle
> the monetary exchange just fine, and will put you on their
> catalog/flyer
> mailing list, all the way from OZ !! I kid you not. They even have
> serious, state-of-the-art radio receivers in kit form, you'd not find
> ANYWHERE in the US.
>
> But as far as an "equivalent" O2 meter for real, "well Virginia", as
> we
> say in the states, "...". It's not their fault. It was the best
> ANYBODY
> could do, reading the O2 sensor voltage directly from a conventional
> lambda sensor element, and trying to do something reasonable with it.
> Every aftermarket company like MSD followed suit, but THEY charged you
>
> $200 for something you could have built for $15 in parts, had you
> known
> what was in it.
>
> Well, now the neat thang is you CAN build one like a kit, only costing
> a
> few bucks more (course the O2 sensor's still a tad pricey, heh), and
> can
> REALLY use it as a measurement device. This isn't due to clever
> circuitry/wizardry, so much as it's due to this new technology of
> current-pump-mode 5-wire sensors.
>
> As a talisman on the viability of this $15 wonder from the land of Oz,
>
> just riddle me this; is the sensor it uses, 1-wire, 2-wire, 4-wire, or
>
> 5-wire. If it's anything but the last, and only costs $15 to build,
> it's
> a myth the likes of Sisyphus.
>
> Garfield the Septic Skeptic (refering to my vile viral guests, of
> course)
>
> P.S. Have you ever had your smog check station check the AFR numbers
> you
> read on your Jag's O2 meter? Not getting on yer case, AH, just
> wondering
> what your level of experience with these thangs is. Call me snoopy.




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 22:58:59 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: J-bodies and DIS
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 22:58:44 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: ABTSZ <ABTSZ@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, April 15, 1998 7:54 PM
Subject: J-bodies and DIS

>I've been looking thru manuals at the library and I have a few questions:
>1:  I was surprised to find that ALL j-body V-6s use DIS.  From looking at
the diagrams, it seems that the DIS systems work some what on their own, and
that the only interaction with the ECM is the same as would be the case with
a 7-pin HEI module.  In other words, I could do away with the DIS (which
would require a crankshaft signal) and wire it up to a HEI module, and the
computer will still function.  In other words (again) the Sync signal from
the
>crankshaft goes to the DIS module, but doesn't go to the ECM.  The DIS
module just sends a regular pulse to the ECM, exactly as a HEI module would.
Do you know if this is correct?  (my car already incorporates a 4-pin HEI
module so putting in a 7-pin would be pretty much Plug-n-Play.) 2:  I could
find no reference to a VATS module in any of the wiring diagrams I saw, so
maybe those models (87-89 j-body v6 w/ 7730 ECM) don't use it.  That would
be a plus!  Of course this information may be wrong, Does anybody know
>otherwise?
>Thanks for any info,
>Adam

The 730 was also used in 90-92 F-bodies, with a 7 pin distributor.
Might dig a little there.
Cheers
Bruce  Thought it was a family reunion, nope just a contruction zone
             Didn't look like much of party, they all had orange  Cone
              Shaped Hats on..


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 15 23:08:08 1998
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From: "wattsg" <geoff@omen.com.au>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 11:08:18 +0800
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The nice little meter we have over here in Oz just uses a NS dot/bar driver
into some leds.  It's purpose isn't to give you a smog check, or to help you
tune your car to stoich.  It's only use is to give you a relative
indication, and the zero-point varies depending on EGT etc etc etc.

So the sensor that's used (which is normally the factory one fitted to the
car) is a 1-wire sensor (sometimes with heater).

I personally use mine solely for warning me when it starts to get a bit lean
under boost, and just to keep an eye on things.  It's cool to see the ECU go
closed-loop too :)

geoff

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of
garfield@pilgrimhouse.com
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 1998 9:12
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)


On Thu, 16 Apr 1998 07:45:27 +-1000, "A.HOLLEY" <holley@zeta.org.au>
wrote:

>Dont know how to tell you people this , but there is a kit available from
one of the local electronics chains here in Aus of a very similar device.
>Comes with PCB and all components except case and EGO sensor.
>Fitted one in my XJS Jag about a yr ago.
>Works like a charm. And all for $15 Aus.

Golly, is there a lotto in Oz? Cuz if you got one of them circuits,
which is dollars-to-donuts a O2 sensor voltage to LED/whatever meter
circuit, to "work like a charm" for ya, you need to go down to the lotto
office RIGHT NOW, and get some tickets!

That company, BTW, (does the name Dick Smith ring a bell?), if it's the
major one I'm thinking of, is a major boon to you aussies; electronics
experimentation and kit building like they support has long since died
in the US. I was overjoyed to get my first catalog from them (yes, they
will take phone orders...I've done it, so it's no speculation...long
distance from the US and NOT waste your time on the phone), they handle
the monetary exchange just fine, and will put you on their catalog/flyer
mailing list, all the way from OZ !! I kid you not. They even have
serious, state-of-the-art radio receivers in kit form, you'd not find
ANYWHERE in the US.

But as far as an "equivalent" O2 meter for real, "well Virginia", as we
say in the states, "...". It's not their fault. It was the best ANYBODY
could do, reading the O2 sensor voltage directly from a conventional
lambda sensor element, and trying to do something reasonable with it.
Every aftermarket company like MSD followed suit, but THEY charged you
$200 for something you could have built for $15 in parts, had you known
what was in it.

Well, now the neat thang is you CAN build one like a kit, only costing a
few bucks more (course the O2 sensor's still a tad pricey, heh), and can
REALLY use it as a measurement device. This isn't due to clever
circuitry/wizardry, so much as it's due to this new technology of
current-pump-mode 5-wire sensors.

As a talisman on the viability of this $15 wonder from the land of Oz,
just riddle me this; is the sensor it uses, 1-wire, 2-wire, 4-wire, or
5-wire. If it's anything but the last, and only costs $15 to build, it's
a myth the likes of Sisyphus.

Garfield the Septic Skeptic (refering to my vile viral guests, of
course)

P.S. Have you ever had your smog check station check the AFR numbers you
read on your Jag's O2 meter? Not getting on yer case, AH, just wondering
what your level of experience with these thangs is. Call me snoopy.


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 00:05:31 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 14:02:44 +1000
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Thanks, I've been called a wacko myself - and no, I don't have a single =
whitw glove.......

The aus kit is just a linear comparator type chip that takes a voltage =
from your 1-3 wire sensor and displayes a coloured bar graph. I guess =
the accuracy of the whole lot depends on the sensor being used - I've =
got a magazine article on it at home somewhere. A good Aus magazine is =
Sillicon Chip, a mag aimed at the elec hobbyist. They do feature quite a =
few auto projects. They have a sister mag called Zoom which is oriented =
towards the car enthusiest with the emphasis on hi tech and electronics. =


Keep us informed.

Peter=20

----------
From: 	garfield@pilgrimhouse.com
Sent: 	Thursday, April 16, 1998 12:02 PM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)

On Thu, 16 Apr 1998 10:57:50 +1000, Peter Jaramaz
<pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au> wrote:

>Also, Id like to introduce myself to the list having recently....

Hi Peter. Welcome to our crazy bunch of wackos. (self-incrimination).

I think you'll be happy with our latest doozle on the O2 meter problem.
Same cost to build, better stuff. Heh. I expect there'll be a group buy
on the sensors that will lower the cost of the "main organ"
considerably.

Garfield



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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 01:24:49 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 22:25:25 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Thu, 16 Apr 1998 14:02:44 +1000, Peter Jaramaz
<pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au> wrote:

>A good Aus magazine is Sillicon Chip, a mag aimed at the elec hobbyist.
>They do feature quite a few auto projects.

Dang, ya know, that's where I saw that cool multiple-spark CDI IGN
circuit recently. I can't remember if it was someone from THIS group or
the aviation group that turned me onto Silicon Chip Mag, but I agree
it's a good one. And they do these projects where Dick Smith carries the
parts kit-up, so if you wanna built it, and you don't wanna do all the
buying and etching yerself, you can order the ready-made board and parts
list from DS. Very nice arrangement. Now if we could only do something
like that in the US with this EGOmeter, eh? 

>They have a sister mag called Zoom which is oriented towards the car 
>enthusiest with the emphasis on hi tech and electronics. 

Hmmm, never heard of that one. Gotta check to see if them guys that
import Silicon Chip can get it as well. Thanks for the tip.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 01:26:59 1998
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Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 00:15:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Output of distributer's magnetic pickup
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From: cosmic.ray@juno.com (Raymond C Drouillard)
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On Wed, 15 Apr 1998 01:07:37 -0600 Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
writes:
>Raymond C Drouillard wrote:
>> 
>> <snip>
>> The module I have has five pins on one side and two on the other.  The
>> "two pin" side goes to the coil.  Three pins on the "five pin" side go
to
>> the ECM (signal out, signal in, and a 5v level that will cause the ECM
to
>> be bypassed if it's missing).  The other two pins go to the magnetic
>> pickup coil in the distributer.  I'm trying to feed the signal from a
>> Motorcraft Duraspark distributer into those two pins.  I tried both
>> polarities.
>> 
>> I would measure the voltage myself, but I don't have access to a
'scope.
>> 
>> Ray Drouillard
>> 
>I seem to remember that 5-7VAC is enough to trigger the
>module.  If you have a DVOM you can measure the voltage from
>the distributor.  
>
>Do you have the module powered up?  One of the wires from
>the coil is ign+ to turn on the module, the other is coil-.
>
>Shannen

Uh...... ya busted me!

That was indeed the problem with my first try <donning conical hat>.  I
couldn't get the GM distributer that I pulled the module from to fire it.

A couple days later, it dawned on me that I need to "plug it in".  I ran
a wire from an ignition source to the "+" pin, hooked up the Holley, and
tried it.  It fired the Jacobs ignition, and the Holley dutifully
injected fuel down the throttle body.

Still, I can't get the Ford distributer to fire it.  Maybe I'm missing
something very basic (again)  <:-)

Ray Drouillard

_____________________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 02:04:57 1998
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Raymond C Drouillard wrote:
> 
<snip>
> 
> That was indeed the problem with my first try <donning conical hat>.  I
> couldn't get the GM distributer that I pulled the module from to fire it.
> 
> A couple days later, it dawned on me that I need to "plug it in".  I ran
> a wire from an ignition source to the "+" pin, hooked up the Holley, and
> tried it.  It fired the Jacobs ignition, and the Holley dutifully
> injected fuel down the throttle body.
> 
> Still, I can't get the Ford distributer to fire it.  Maybe I'm missing
> something very basic (again)  <:-)

ok...  Need to connect the metal portion of the back to
ground for complete circuit.  Easy to overlook.... : )
Shannen
Shannen

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Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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In-Reply-To: <01BD6940.54702120@pjaramaz> from "Peter Jaramaz" at Apr 16, 98 02:02:44 pm
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> The aus kit is just a linear comparator type chip that takes a voltage =
> from your 1-3 wire sensor and displayes a coloured bar graph. I guess =

LM3914 no doubt.  I have a home built unit.  I use it to make sure
it isn't going lean under boost.

I look forward to the new ion-pump based design!

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 04:02:39 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date:          Thu, 16 Apr 1998 10:17:13 UTC-2
Subject:       Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
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> When the project is ready, I could make an HTML tutorial of the entire
> construction of the sensor box, where we can always have help for those
> making it and we can even put people's add-ons for interfacing up there.
> Let me know if anyone is interested in this idea?
> 

Most definitely!

Andrew

  Dr A. N. Bosch
Physiology Department/ Sports Science Institute
University of Cape Town Medical School
P. O. Box 115
Newlands 7700
South Africa

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Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 00:05:59 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: winmail.dat files
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>>Attachment Converted: C:\PROGRA~1\EUDORA\INFILES\WINMAIL.DAT

Not to start a flame war, large discussion, or distract the list... however
I think a lot of us would appreciate those of you running MS-Mail,
MS-Outlook, or MS-Express if you could kindly turn off "Rich text format",
"Mime", "Text Formatting" and other options that don't yield pure ascii to
the DIYEFI list.

In the MS products, you create an address book entry, and call it something
like "DIYEFI" or whatever you prefer.  Then for that address entry, you can
turn all this "stuff" off, and send pure ascii.  Whether you use the
address book entry or not to send messages, MS products check the address
book for the same internet address, and uses the same settings, so its no
additional work on your part, other than to set it up.

We appreciate it :)

I bitched because I just wiped out approximately 75 megs of winmail.dat
files, sequentually numbered :(


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 08:23:01 1998
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Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 00:01:31 -0700
To: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: RE: Ford PROMS (unsorted)
Cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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>i think i have to do a visit down there (in your server),how busy is your
>system between midnight and 8 O'Clock in the morning ???

Its not so busy during the day, eastern standard time.  During the evening
it starts to pick up with people getting their mail, surfing the web, and
now, the FTP for the Ford ROM files.

Plus, this webserver is my proxy server for my entire house - which means
if I'm surfing, its much slower <G>.

And from 4am to 6am, the tape backup is running off another server in the
house... but the Webserver is kinda busy passing its data to the other
server.  Its 100MB internal, so its not *that* slow on the internet.
Something like 5-6% I'd esitmate.

>also,what's the size of the directory holding the files ( if 88 MB
>zipped,should be about 176 unzipped ???)

Its a zipped CDROM, so unzipped, which is how I have it now, is
approximately 500MB :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 09:35:51 1998
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Not to be bothered with terms then, I can
document a little based on last night's
experimentation. Nothing like answering
your own questions.

The doomaflotchy in the middle switches
the IAC lines.

The 2 transistors on the side and closest
to the connector switch the injector lines.

The transistor farthest from the connector is
apparently the 5V regulator for everything else,
but that's a little bigger guess.

I'll put up the details on my soon to be started
personal diy-efi project page.

-greg


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which[hein@phys.uit.no]

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 10:23:38 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GM 1227747 ECM drivers
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 10:23:24 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Gregory A. Parmer <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 16, 1998 10:13 AM
Subject: Re: GM 1227747 ECM drivers


>Not to be bothered with terms then, I can
>document a little based on last night's
>experimentation. Nothing like answering
>your own questions.

Hey, jus wait till ya can't even word the questions right.
If ya think that's funny just wait....
>
>The doomaflotchy in the middle switches
>the IAC lines.


I just luv it when the wording gets high tech, and I already
have my cone shaped hat on..
>
>The 2 transistors on the side and closest
>to the connector switch the injector lines.
>
>I'll put up the details on my soon to be started
>personal diy-efi project page.
>
>-greg
>
Bruce  Lately I've learned how to sleep with my Cone Shaped
            Hat on......


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 10:44:09 1998
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Subject: Re: J-bodies and DIS
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     Yup...DIS is pretty much a stand alone system. However, I think the 
     ECM handles cranking timing and knock retard control, both of which 
     are then translated within the DIS module. If you can adapt an HEI 
     module to work, I would think that would be sufficient.
     
     Also, there are no J-bodies, even the current ones, that use a 
     VATS/Pass-Key system. From what I know, the Vette and F-bodies have 
     it, along with maybe a truck (?).
     
     TTYL!
     
     Larry
     
     FWIW, I used to have an 89 Z24...no VATS!


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: J-bodies and DIS
Author:  <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu> at internet
Date:    4/15/98 7:01 PM


Hi,
I am going to try and modify the system from a J-body v6 '87-'89 to work on my 
car, a non-GM 6 cyl.
I've been looking thru manuals at the library and I have a few questions:
1:  I was surprised to find that ALL j-body V-6s use DIS.  From looking at the 
diagrams, it seems that the DIS systems work some what on their own, and that 
the only interaction with the ECM is the same as would be the case with a 
7-pin HEI module.  In other words, I could do away with the DIS (which would 
require a crankshaft signal) and wire it up to a HEI module, and the computer 
will still function.  In other words (again) the Sync signal from the 
crankshaft goes to the DIS module, but doesn't go to the ECM.  The DIS module 
just sends a regular pulse to the ECM, exactly as a HEI module would.  Do you 
know if this is correct?  (my car already incorporates a 4-pin HEI module so 
putting in a 7-pin would be pretty much Plug-n-Play.)
     
2:  I could find no reference to a VATS module in any of the wiring diagrams I 
saw, so maybe those models (87-89 j-body v6 w/ 7730 ECM) don't use it.  That 
would be a plus!  Of course this information may be wrong, Does anybody know 
otherwise?
     
Thanks for any info,
Adam
     



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Subject: Re[2]: Projection
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     I wouldn't do this at all. From what I recall, the EGR feed is through 
     the center two exhaust ports in the head. So, assuming the intake 
     manifold is properly restricted to bias the flow through the intake in 
     one direction...you will only be reading the O2 output from two 
     cylinders. If you stick an injector in one of these cylinders and get 
     a rich reading at the O2 sensor, and the ECM leans out ALL the 
     injectors...you will be running very lean...which is not a good thing.
     
     TTYL!
     
     Larry


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RE: Projection
Author:  <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu> at internet
Date:    4/15/98 5:53 PM


Not a bad idea, can anyone verify if this is feasible with the Chev TPI as well.
     
Dan     dzorde@geocities.com
     
>Well, I did it.  I purchased a Holley 4D system for my 351W-powered boat. 
>
>I've changed my mind (again) and will try and fit the O2 sensor somehow. 
> Question:  My EGR port (Edelbrock Performer manifold) is blanked off.  A 
>perhaps stupid question, but does anyone have a feel for whether  there 
>would be enough 'fresh' exhaust (now there's a concept), perhaps due to 
>firing order pulsation, that sensing the EGR port for O2 content would 
>work?  My own intuition is telling me to try and figure out a more 
>conventional solution...
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike Jones
>
>
>Attachment Converted: C:\PROGRA~1\EUDORA\INFILES\WINMAIL.DAT 
>
>
     
     



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Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 11:22:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
cc: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: winmail.dat files
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> We appreciate it :)

yep,sure i'll apreciate !!!!
 
> I bitched because I just wiped out approximately 75 megs of winmail.dat
> files, sequentually numbered :(

you should take a look at how *nix (linux) mail client handle
these,cryptic message to say the least !!!

Alain


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 11:56:17 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Did I miss anyone?.
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 11:56:02 -0400
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I think I've finally caught up with all the volunteers, for the 101 project.
If I have not returned a e-mail to you some how ya got lost in the
shuffle here, and please write again.
  If you've had a change in heart and want to help share info, again
my e-mail is   nacelp@bright.net
Thanks 
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 12:39:37 1998
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From: "Peter Fenske" <ffnsp955@bcit.bc.ca>
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Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 09:41:14 +0000
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Subject: Re: J-bodies and DIS
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Hi All

Non of the J bodies implemented vats.

However the newer speed density ones using the 730 ecm
did have VATS in the code. It was simply not enabled.

I like using the j -body harness for all applications
They run a ton of wire. So you end up shortening the
wires. Lots of room for most V8 apps.
Adapting the hei is easy

Only prob we had was using a DIS cal
You guys can use the 3.1 L 90 camaro cal
to interface to the HEI dist.

Not sure why the DIS cal won't work directly.
we tried but??? wouldn't run right.

I don't think it was a spark ref angle problem. More like
the signal was inverted..

later:peter

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 12:51:49 1998
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Subject: Re: J-bodies and DIS
References: <9804168927.AA892737846@smtpgate.anl.gov>
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The Impala with LT1 engine also uses VAT. The 94 police cars
actually had a VAT disable module because they didn't
incorporate VAT in the key.

		Ken

lkurek@smtpgate.anl.gov wrote:
> 
>      Yup...DIS is pretty much a stand alone system. However, I think the
>      ECM handles cranking timing and knock retard control, both of which
>      are then translated within the DIS module. If you can adapt an HEI
>      module to work, I would think that would be sufficient.
> 
>      Also, there are no J-bodies, even the current ones, that use a
>      VATS/Pass-Key system. From what I know, the Vette and F-bodies have
>      it, along with maybe a truck (?).
> 
>      TTYL!
> 
>      Larry
> 
>      FWIW, I used to have an 89 Z24...no VATS!
> 
> ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
> Subject: J-bodies and DIS
> Author:  <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu> at internet
> Date:    4/15/98 7:01 PM
> 
> Hi,
> I am going to try and modify the system from a J-body v6 '87-'89 to work on my
> car, a non-GM 6 cyl.
> I've been looking thru manuals at the library and I have a few questions:
> 1:  I was surprised to find that ALL j-body V-6s use DIS.  From looking at the
> diagrams, it seems that the DIS systems work some what on their own, and that
> the only interaction with the ECM is the same as would be the case with a
> 7-pin HEI module.  In other words, I could do away with the DIS (which would
> require a crankshaft signal) and wire it up to a HEI module, and the computer
> will still function.  In other words (again) the Sync signal from the
> crankshaft goes to the DIS module, but doesn't go to the ECM.  The DIS module
> just sends a regular pulse to the ECM, exactly as a HEI module would.  Do you
> know if this is correct?  (my car already incorporates a 4-pin HEI module so
> putting in a 7-pin would be pretty much Plug-n-Play.)
> 
> 2:  I could find no reference to a VATS module in any of the wiring diagrams I
> saw, so maybe those models (87-89 j-body v6 w/ 7730 ECM) don't use it.  That
> would be a plus!  Of course this information may be wrong, Does anybody know
> otherwise?
> 
> Thanks for any info,
> Adam
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 13:38:49 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Projection
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 09:58:00 -0700
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One of my concerns as well.  The marine installation manual indicates that 
the proper position is in one of the individual exhaust runners, just 
before it enters the water cooled exhaust manifold.  This doesn't seem like 
a good idea either (although if you chose one farthest away from the TB you 
would improve your chances of having the inboard cylinders running rich, 
which is better than lean at least).  Also, that means that the sensor 
would have to be mounted upside down, which is supposedly not good for long 
term health of the sensor.  So I dunno.  Maybe I'll go back to plan A which 
is to not use the sensor at all.

It's easy enough, though, to install the sensor.  I think what I'll do is 
tune it w/o the sensor (as the manual describes) then hook up the sensor. 
 If performance noticeably decreases or if I pick up a lean stumble then 
I'll know that the sensor is in the wrong place.

Mike J.

>>lkurek@smtpgate.anl.gov wrote:
     I wouldn't do this at all. From what I recall, the EGR feed is through 
     the center two exhaust ports in the head. So, assuming the intake
     manifold is properly restricted to bias the flow through the intake in 
     one direction...you will only be reading the O2 output from two
     cylinders. If you stick an injector in one of these cylinders and get
     a rich reading at the O2 sensor, and the ECM leans out ALL the
     injectors...you will be running very lean...which is not a good thing.

     TTYL!

     Larry>>

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0.B ``````P`--/TW``"M`VF]
`
end


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 13:40:27 1998
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To: <cl-f-body@f-body.org>, <fourth-gen@f-body.org>,
        <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: How does an increase in GPS relate to power output?
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     Guys:
     
     Quick question for you all....
     
     Before we make it back to a dyno, is there any way to calculate an 
     increase in power from an increase in MAF readings (GPS)? Here is why 
     I ask. A buddy of mine (Brian) just did a head/cam swap and showed a 
     pretty decent increase in airflow from his previous runs. He went from 
     252 GPS to 294 GPS (if I remember this correctly) from Diacom readings 
     (could be off since he has a 96...which Diacom has a bit of trouble 
     working with). When we made the earlier reading, he was at the dyno 
     where he made 255 RWHP. Now, if I do a simple percent of increase in 
     airflow and multiply by his old HP...I get 298 RWHP. Does this work, 
     or are there other factors I need to take into account? The air 
     pressure now was higher, but the air temperature was lower than when 
     he made his dyno run.
     
     Now...the monkey wrench. On the SAME day he was at the dyno, I was as 
     well. I made 278 RWHP with only 264 GPS airflow readings. So, if I do 
     an interpolation using these numbers, I end up with nearly 400 RWHP he 
     will be making. Now, the 298hp above seems a bit light, but the 400 
     seems high (would be nice if it is correct though). So, first of all, 
     does anyone have a formula that predicts power output based on airflow 
     in GPS? Second, I assume it isn't a linear relationship based on the 
     above....but should it be?
     
     Any feedback would be appreciated!
     
     Larry Kurek
     
     BTW..please copy my Lkurek@anl.gov address so I can get your response 
     ASAP.



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 14:49:05 1998
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From: "Matthew B. Watts" <mwatts@facility.cs.utah.edu>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: winmail.dat files
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 13:32:19 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 16, 1998 7:50 AM
Subject: winmail.dat files


>Not to start a flame war, large discussion, or distract the list... however
>I think a lot of us would appreciate those of you running MS-Mail,
>MS-Outlook, or MS-Express if you could kindly turn off "Rich text format",
>"Mime", "Text Formatting" and other options that don't yield pure ascii to
>the DIYEFI list.

>In the MS products, you create an address book entry, and call it something
>like "DIYEFI" or whatever you prefer.  Then for that address entry, you can
>turn all this "stuff" off, and send pure ascii.  Whether you use the
>address book entry or not to send messages, MS products check the address
>book for the same internet address, and uses the same settings, so its no
>additional work on your part, other than to set it up.


Plus, if you reply to the list, set your mailer to send in the same format
as received--I think that's an option for Outlook, maybe others as
well.

>We appreciate it :)




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 14:53:46 1998
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From: "Scott Flanagan" <flanagan@worldnet.att.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 14:52:53 -0400
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Great, let me know if there is any way you want the interface/layout to be.
Also, where do we want to put it?  We could maybe put it on the DIY_EFI web
page, let me know who to contact about that, or I can get some free space
somewhere, Tripod runs an excelent service.  I would like to see more things
like this in the group, there is so much knowledge in this group that needs
a place so it can be easily accessed by it's members.  The FTP site is
clumsy and archaic.  We could put lots of reference materials, and other
circuits, whatever on the web.  I would be happy to help out with this
process.  Maybe set the overall layout, which is the toughest thing to do.
Making is compatible for all browsers is tough, and I might be able to talk
my friend into making some nice graphics for it.  We both are making the
homepage for our high school, www.mindspring.com/~brookwoodhigh/   Through
the web we can make a lot of information easily accessible.


                                        -Scott Flanagan

>IMNSHO, this is an eXcellent idea/offer! I'll prepare an ops description
>of the circuit internals, so if someone wants to do some further mods,
>this could also speed their learning curve. Nuthin complicated about the
>circuit, and even if you don't want to do mods, it's still nice to
>see/understand how it works. Don't have to be an EE to enjoy that part
>of it, eh? Maybe a family tree of mutant diy_EGOs will sprout from this,
>um, fertile ground. Heh. Now if Newark would just deliver my one
>remaining errant part, we could launch the party! (sound of foot-tapping
>in the background).
>
>Gar
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 14:55:30 1998
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Message-ID: <35365725.79F2@huron.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 15:08:21 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: GM 1227747 ECM drivers
References: <01bd6943$36fe4240$63198fd1@nacelp>
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gregory A. Parmer <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Thursday, April 16, 1998 10:13 AM
> Subject: Re: GM 1227747 ECM drivers
> 
> >Not to be bothered with terms then, I can
> >document a little based on last night's
> >experimentation. Nothing like answering
> >your own questions.
> 
> Hey, jus wait till ya can't even word the questions right.
> If ya think that's funny just wait....
> >
> >The doomaflotchy in the middle switches
> >the IAC lines.
> 
> I just luv it when the wording gets high tech, and I already
> have my cone shaped hat on..
> >
> >The 2 transistors on the side and closest
> >to the connector switch the injector lines.
> >
> >I'll put up the details on my soon to be started
> >personal diy-efi project page.
> >
> >-greg
> >
> Bruce  Lately I've learned how to sleep with my Cone Shaped
>             Hat on......
Sounds like the explanation given for the sudden noisy death of a
customers car engine -  The hammer shaft jumped over the giggling pin.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 15:04:07 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 4D installation
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 13:00:26 -0700
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So wadda y'all think?  The 600 cfm carb had a 1" aluminum spacer under it. 
 Do I use it w/ the 4D I'm installing?  I've forgotten why the spacer is 
there.  Is it to improve the metering signal to the carb or is it for 
runner tuning, i.e. to lower the rpm at which peak power occurs?  Sheesh. 
 Getting old.  My CSH is getting rusty.

Mike J.

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end


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 15:32:01 1998
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Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 15:29:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: DIY list <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: A FREE 25 MILLION! (fwd)
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does there is a subscriber to this list who's domain name is hk.super.net
or something like that,my last posting i did is to this list and (the only
2 list i post is this list and the debian-user list and i hasn't posted on
the debian list since saturday),also,is there other person who receive
spam from this site,i allready took some action for this a**hole but i'd
like to know where is that come from.

Alain


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To: Friend@public.com
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 98 22:23:48 EST
Subject: A FREE 25 MILLION!
X-UIDL: a6b5ac758d9f4a7f12f4b29daf10b1ab

Please excuse the intrusion.

YES!  A FREE 25 MILLION E-mail Addresses at your disposal!!!!  

If you have a business that needs E-mail addresses, I have
some good news for you!

If you have checked out E-mail services before, you probably 
have found out they are very expensive to buy!  Like $200 for 
2,000 E-mail addresses!  That is ridiculous!! 

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of only $5.00, I will send you 250 MILLION Legitimate
E-mail Addresses!!

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But BEWARE, SUPPY IS LIMITED, so hurry and send your one 
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you your 250 MILLION addresses!!


INSTRUCTIONS:


Make sure the cash is concealed by wrapping it in at least two
sheets of paper!

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your name and E-mail address and I will send them to you the 
same day received!



SEND YOUR ORDER IMMEDIATELY TO:

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638 Wood Hollow Drive
Marietta, GA  30067



HURRY!  DON'T DELAY, at this price they are going SUPER FAST!!






From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 15:48:34 1998
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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: GM 1227747 ECM drivers
In-Reply-To: <35365725.79F2@huron.net>
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On Thu, 16 Apr 1998, Clare Snyder wrote:

> > Hey, jus wait till ya can't even word the questions right.
> > If ya think that's funny just wait....
> > >
> > >The doomaflotchy in the middle switches
> > >the IAC lines.
> > 
> > I just luv it when the wording gets high tech, and I already
> > have my cone shaped hat on..
> > >
> Sounds like the explanation given for the sudden noisy death of a
> customers car engine -  The hammer shaft jumped over the giggling pin.
> -- 
Just today I saw a failed transmission in which the bull gear had jumped
the heifer shaft. Very messy...


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 16:22:11 1998
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Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 16:22:07 -0400
From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: Re: How does an increase in GPS relate to power output?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, lkurek@anl.gov
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lkurek@smtpgate.anl.gov wrote:
> 
>      airflow and multiply by his old HP...I get 298 RWHP. Does this work,
>      or are there other factors I need to take into account? The air
>      pressure now was higher, but the air temperature was lower than when
>      he made his dyno run.

I doubt it's a linear relationship, but it is accurate for improvements
in the same car. The GPS shows exactly how much air your engine is
using, which can give you the volumetric efficiency. It depends on what
your fuel mixture is, but if you keep things the same, and the GPS goes
up, you are making more power. Sorry I couldn't help any more..

A

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 16:25:23 1998
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<Larry
     
 <    FWIW, I used to have an 89 Z24...no VATS!

Thanks,
That basically confirms what the Chilton manuals have been telling me.
Basically, '87 -'90 Chevy "w" engines have no VATS, I'm not sure about later
years or other makes.

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 16:33:17 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 4D installation
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 16:33:06 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 16, 1998 3:35 PM
Subject: 4D installation


>So wadda y'all think?  The 600 cfm carb had a 1" aluminum spacer under it.
> Do I use it w/ the 4D I'm installing?  I've forgotten why the spacer is
>there.  Is it to improve the metering signal to the carb or is it for
>runner tuning, i.e. to lower the rpm at which peak power occurs?  Sheesh.
> Getting old.  My CSH is getting rusty.
>
>Mike J.
>
IMHE, It's a matter of cylinder filling/reversion damping, tuned lenghts
and moon phases.  But keeping the same plenum volume/runner
lenghts from Carb to TBI has worked out well for me.  Also the
best air filter/housing wound up being the same.  I tried optimizing
all variables, as much as possible, and the same combination
worked from carb to TBI.  But, they were right to begin with..
  On some of the weber carb'd stuff some engines liked a certain
tuned lenght, with the jets/venturis a certain distance from the intake
valve, ie some like long stacks on the carbs with no spacers, and some liked
really short stacks with long spacers between the carb,
and manifold.
Not a worry
Bruce         Imagine a world where everyone wore a Cone Shaped
                   Hat proudly....


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 16:40:28 1998
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In a message dated 98-04-16 15:01:01 EDT, you write:

<< Not sure why the DIS cal won't work directly.
 we tried but??? wouldn't run right.
 
 I don't think it was a spark ref angle problem. More like
 the signal was inverted..
  >>

According to the chilton manuals, The crank sensor sends twice as many pulses
to the DIS as would a HEI to the ECM.
  The Chilton then implies that the DIS cuts the number of impulses in half
and then sends them to the ECM.  This would be the same number of impulse
going to the ECM as in an HEI system.
  BUT they aren't actually "pulses".  I'm not sure how to describe it, but
I'll try to "draw" it:
HEI system:
_____[]_____[]_____[]_____[]  etc.

DIS:
         ______           ______
_____[          ]_____[          ]______ etc.

At least that's the impression I got.

SO if I convert a J-body system to HEI, I will need a F-body prom with VATS
disabled.

Thanks for the info,
Adam

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 20:04:50 1998
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To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Wayne Blair <wayneb@foxboro.com.au>
Subject: diy_EGOmeter
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Hi EGO meter gru's,

Well I'm keen to build one and the html tutorial would be great.
The Down under factor maybe a draw back.
We may have to build  our own boards hw etc.
And find a local source for the sensor.

The OZ guys interested maybe should link up when the time comes and the
info is published, or can we link in with the US bulk parts buy .



In ref to DELCO PROGRAMMING 101

Does any one know of a list/reference of data/info/features on DELCO ECU's
sorted according to program ID (usually at addr 0x08) instead of  HW
platform (eg 747). Which is the best way to organise the info, platform or
prog id or something else.



Any ideas etc please mail list or direct

wayne

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 20:11:30 1998
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  Hi,
 I've been told different things by different people about whether J-body V6s
are MAF or MAP.  According to the schematics I've seen, some are MAF and some
are MAP based on different years and\or models.  The manuals I have only go up
to '90, however.
 Does anyone know if any J-bodies are MAP based, and what years or models?  I
don't know if I should trust the Chilton manuals I've been lookin at or not.
 Also, If all I can find is a MAF based system with a 7730 ECM, is this
difficult to convert to MAP?  I realize I'd have to get a prom for a MAP based
care (F-body V6).  What about the wiring to the MAP?  Is there "vestual"
wiring in the harness? 

Adam

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 20:36:57 1998
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-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Flanagan <flanagan@worldnet.att.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 16, 1998 3:01 PM
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)


>Great, let me know if there is any way you want the interface/layout to be.
>Also, where do we want to put it?  We could maybe put it on the DIY_EFI web
>page, let me know who to contact about that, or I can get some free space
>somewhere, Tripod runs an excelent service.  I would like to see more things
>like this in the group, there is so much knowledge in this group that needs
>a place so it can be easily accessed by it's members.  The FTP site is
>clumsy and archaic.  We could put lots of reference materials, and other
>circuits, whatever on the web.  I would be happy to help out with this
>process.  Maybe set the overall layout, which is the toughest thing to do.
>Making is compatible for all browsers is tough, and I might be able to talk
>my friend into making some nice graphics for it.  We both are making the
>homepage for our high school, www.mindspring.com/~brookwoodhigh/   Through
>the web we can make a lot of information easily accessible.


Hey Scott,

Some tips for the layout...

Have an area for "Special Projects" such as the EGOmeter and hopefully
many others of past and to follow.  Another area for "Contributors" having
a little bio information and what not.  A third area for "Links" to other similar
or participating Web sites such as Fred's Automotive Website.  Maybe an
area up front that has an introduction and mail list basics.

As far as compatibility, I'd target mid to upper end browsers.  Don't use
DHTML, ActiveX or XML--too specific and too new for many.  Since anyone
can download a free copy of Netscape 4.04 or there abouts, to run on
most any machine, I'd make sure the site works with that.  I think JavaScript
for the menus and such will probably work out okay.  For images I'd
probably use links instead of just dropping them in any ol' place.  That way
the "text" folks can still get the info they're after and the download speeds
will be faster.  If frames are used, keep them simple so that the individual
HTML files can still be accessed easily with direct links.

Just my twin pennies worth...

Matt
________



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From: "Matthew B. Watts" <mwatts@facility.cs.utah.edu>
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Subject: Re: A FREE 25 MILLION! (fwd)
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-----Original Message-----
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
To: DIY list <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 16, 1998 3:01 PM
Subject: A FREE 25 MILLION! (fwd)


>does there is a subscriber to this list who's domain name is hk.super.net
>or something like that,my last posting i did is to this list and (the only
>2 list i post is this list and the debian-user list and i hasn't posted on
>the debian list since saturday),also,is there other person who receive
>spam from this site,i allready took some action for this a**hole but i'd
>like to know where is that come from.


It may be one of those auto email scouters that hunt down mass email
addresses and happened to find the DIY_EFI list as a valid address.
I've had several mail lists like this one begin to get scattered with junk.
Maybe we can have filters added that are a little more strict in where
the originator comes from.




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 21:22:17 1998
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From: "Michael J. Kupec" <mkupec@erols.com>
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Subject: Re: 4D installation
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-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 16, 1998 3:54 PM
Subject: 4D installation


>So wadda y'all think?  The 600 cfm carb had a 1" aluminum spacer under it.
> Do I use it w/ the 4D I'm installing?  I've forgotten why the spacer is
>there.  Is it to improve the metering signal to the carb or is it for
>runner tuning, i.e. to lower the rpm at which peak power occurs?  Sheesh.
> Getting old.  My CSH is getting rusty.

Mike,

The way I always understood it, the plate (if it is the 4-hole type) helps
in improving the metering signal(s) in the carb at high RPM. Since you
really don't have any metering signals to worry about with the TBI - you
should be able to leave the plate off and bolt the TBI right to the intake.
If you look at the TBI you'll notice that it really doesn't have a venturi
type shape to it like the carb does, just a straight shot down to the
throtle plates. The vaccum hoses that attach to the TBI do provide the
necessarry vacuum signals to the specific hardware (i.e.: vacuum advance)
but don't need the spacer plate to provide this.

HTH

Michael J. Kupec
mkupec@erols.com

I live with constant fear and danger every day...
    and sometimes she lets me go four-wheeling!

Get in, Sit down, Shut up, and Hold on!

It's a Bronco thing, They wouldn't have a clue!

Management & Data Systems, Lockheed Martin Corporation
Woodbridge, Virginia, USA (703) 680-6903
1970 Bronco w/351W (in a constant state of dissassembly/refinement...)
1964 1/2 260 Convertible  w/PS, PB, & Power Top
1965 289 HP "K" Coupe w/PS, PB, & Pony Int. (Early '65, not a GT)




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 21:44:24 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Sites
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 21:40:49 -0400
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There seem to be a fair amount of interest in this which I think
is a good thing, but I think a bit early.  The O2 looks to be close to
a done deal, and the 101 is hardly off the ground.
  As for making it accessible, MHO is make it for the lowest common
denomenator.  The trouble with this whole net thing is that it is soo
computer related.  I read posts about settings for e-mail that I have
to write to other folks to find out what the heck people are even talking
about.  
  The whole purpose of 101 is to put the info in a format where any
one tuning in can figure out where we're at.  For the average Joe 
who is better with a wrench then a keyboard.  The EE, and software
types can do this stuff, but we ain't all wired that way.  
  If this ain't tech enough for you then there's 332.  Heck I can't even
read the stuff.  They have it so wrapped up in zip'd slp'd dkkmeng'd
dkmgnd"d, that it's only for the club that understands the language.
  Please what ever ya do keep it accessible for everyone.
Cheers
Bruce  


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 22:00:44 1998
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From: "Jesse R. Ortiz" <jr@ij.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Fueltronics?
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 22:01:03 -0400
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If anyone here has any experience with the Fueltronics TCC3, or any of the
other Turbo Control Centeres, could you please E-mail me? I would like to
know what anyone thought/thinks of it, especially the additional Injector
controller part of it...

Please e-mail with any info....  It would be very much appreciated....


jr






From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 23:16:10 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 20:14:56 -0700
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Mass systems had map too. Therefore on the Mass needs to be added. The EGR
(digital or linear) may be different. HEI or DIS is slightly different.


-----Original Message-----
From: ABTSZ <ABTSZ@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 16, 1998 6:05 PM
Subject: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF


>  Hi,
> I've been told different things by different people about whether J-body
V6s
>are MAF or MAP.  According to the schematics I've seen, some are MAF and
some
>are MAP based on different years and\or models.  The manuals I have only go
up
>to '90, however.
> Does anyone know if any J-bodies are MAP based, and what years or models?
I
>don't know if I should trust the Chilton manuals I've been lookin at or
not.
> Also, If all I can find is a MAF based system with a 7730 ECM, is this
>difficult to convert to MAP?  I realize I'd have to get a prom for a MAP
based
>care (F-body V6).  What about the wiring to the MAP?  Is there "vestual"
>wiring in the harness?
>
>Adam
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 16 23:32:15 1998
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Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 22:28:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Output of distributer's magnetic pickup
Message-ID: <19980416.232926.12654.0.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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From: cosmic.ray@juno.com (Raymond C Drouillard)
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On Wed, 15 Apr 1998 23:52:26 -0600 Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
writes:
>Raymond C Drouillard wrote:
>> 
><snip>
>> 
>> That was indeed the problem with my first try <donning conical hat>. 
I
>> couldn't get the GM distributer that I pulled the module from to fire
it.
>> 
>> A couple days later, it dawned on me that I need to "plug it in".  I
ran
>> a wire from an ignition source to the "+" pin, hooked up the Holley,
and
>> tried it.  It fired the Jacobs ignition, and the Holley dutifully
>> injected fuel down the throttle body.
>> 
>> Still, I can't get the Ford distributer to fire it.  Maybe I'm missing
>> something very basic (again)  <:-)
>
>ok...  Need to connect the metal portion of the back to
>ground for complete circuit.  Easy to overlook.... : )
>Shannen

I know the value of good grounding (I'm a ham radio operater).  I
actually mounted the module to the top cover of an old (inoperative) hard
drive.  I wire brushed the finish off and used aluminum screws to
securely bolt the module to the aluminum.  Then, I used sheet metal
screws to mount the whole assembly to the top of the right fender well. 
Not being satisfied, I ran a ground wire from one of the mounting screws
(the same one that I used for the ground wire of the ECM connecter) to
the one common grounding screw that I have on my right fender well that
ties the battery and just about everything else together.

Ray Drouillard

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 00:52:57 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Wayne (Australia)

Looking for Subaru manual(s).
Impreza with EJ-20 engine.  2 liter DOHC intercooled(water) EFI.
Need Engine and Engine Electrical.  I think that is manual 2 and 6.

Bob McKnight
Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 01:15:46 1998
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Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 19:11:08 -1000
From: "Paul E. Bueltmann III" <paulb3@gte.net>
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Subject: Re: Output of distributer's magnetic pickup
References: <01bd6546$643edf40$18198fd1@nacelp> <19980414.230744.12726.3.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
		<35345CB9.5DCD21E1@mcn.net> <19980416.012417.10790.1.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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Raymond C Drouillard wrote:
> 
> On Wed, 15 Apr 1998 01:07:37 -0600 Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
> writes:
> >Raymond C Drouillard wrote:
> >>
> >> <snip>
> >> The module I have has five pins on one side and two on the other.  The
> >> "two pin" side goes to the coil.  Three pins on the "five pin" side go
> to
> >> the ECM (signal out, signal in, and a 5v level that will cause the ECM
> to
> >> be bypassed if it's missing).  The other two pins go to the magnetic
> >> pickup coil in the distributer.  I'm trying to feed the signal from a
> >> Motorcraft Duraspark distributer into those two pins.  I tried both
> >> polarities.
> >>
> >> I would measure the voltage myself, but I don't have access to a
> 'scope.
> >>
> >> Ray Drouillard
> >>
> >I seem to remember that 5-7VAC is enough to trigger the
> >module.  If you have a DVOM you can measure the voltage from
> >the distributor.
> >
> >Do you have the module powered up?  One of the wires from
> >the coil is ign+ to turn on the module, the other is coil-.
> >
> >Shannen
> 
> Uh...... ya busted me!
> 
> That was indeed the problem with my first try <donning conical hat>.  I
> couldn't get the GM distributer that I pulled the module from to fire it.
> 
> A couple days later, it dawned on me that I need to "plug it in".  I ran
> a wire from an ignition source to the "+" pin, hooked up the Holley, and
> tried it.  It fired the Jacobs ignition, and the Holley dutifully
> injected fuel down the throttle body.
> 
> Still, I can't get the Ford distributer to fire it.  Maybe I'm missing
> something very basic (again)  <:-)
> 
> Ray Drouillard
> 
> _____________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
I mesured a five and two wire module and I got 3.8 volts at the c anf +
pin at low rpm and 5.75 ant higher rpm hope this helps

later paulb3@gte.net

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 01:28:33 1998
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Subject: Re: Output of distributer's magnetic pickup
References: <01bd6546$643edf40$18198fd1@nacelp> <19980414.230744.12726.3.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com> <19980416.232926.12654.0.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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Raymond C Drouillard wrote:
> 
> On Wed, 15 Apr 1998 23:52:26 -0600 Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
> writes:
> >Raymond C Drouillard wrote:
> >>
> ><snip>
> >>
> >> That was indeed the problem with my first try <donning conical hat>.
> I
> >> couldn't get the GM distributer that I pulled the module from to fire
> it.
> >>
> >> A couple days later, it dawned on me that I need to "plug it in".  I
> ran
> >> a wire from an ignition source to the "+" pin, hooked up the Holley,
> and
> >> tried it.  It fired the Jacobs ignition, and the Holley dutifully
> >> injected fuel down the throttle body.
> >>
> >> Still, I can't get the Ford distributer to fire it.  Maybe I'm missing
> >> something very basic (again)  <:-)
> >
> >ok...  Need to connect the metal portion of the back to
> >ground for complete circuit.  Easy to overlook.... : )
> >Shannen
> 
> I know the value of good grounding (I'm a ham radio operater).  I
> actually mounted the module to the top cover of an old (inoperative) hard
> drive.  I wire brushed the finish off and used aluminum screws to
> securely bolt the module to the aluminum.  Then, I used sheet metal
> screws to mount the whole assembly to the top of the right fender well.
> Not being satisfied, I ran a ground wire from one of the mounting screws
> (the same one that I used for the ground wire of the ECM connecter) to
> the one common grounding screw that I have on my right fender well that
> ties the battery and just about everything else together.
> 
> Ray Drouillard
> 
>
Couldn't be much more complete than that.  Only other step
is to get a dvom and a helper and measure output voltage
from the distributor while the engine is cranking.  I'll try
to find time tomorrow (like I've been trying the last two
days) to find some Motorcraft distributor info.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 07:01:47 1998
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From: Pete Datcuk <pdatcuk@snip.net>
To: "EFI List (E-mail)" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Northstar
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 18:18:05 -0500
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I wrote a while back looking for information on the electronics of this drivetrain.  Someone out there wrote back offering help, but I have lost his address/name.  If you are out there, please drop me a line.

Pete Datcuk
Mechanical Engineer
Sewell, NJ
'87 Fiero, some day to be Northstar'ed :-)
'67 Jeep Commando, to be risen from the dead ;-)



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 10:46:50 1998
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From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: How does an increase in GPS relate to power output?
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At 12:31 PM 4/16/98 -0600, you wrote:
>
>     Guys:
>     
>     Quick question for you all....
>     
>     Before we make it back to a dyno, is there any way to calculate an 
>     increase in power from an increase in MAF readings (GPS)? Here is why 
>     I ask. A buddy of mine (Brian) just did a head/cam swap and showed a 
>     pretty decent increase in airflow from his previous runs. He went from 
>     252 GPS to 294 GPS (if I remember this correctly) from Diacom readings 
>     (could be off since he has a 96...which Diacom has a bit of trouble 
>     working with). When we made the earlier reading, he was at the dyno 
>     where he made 255 RWHP. Now, if I do a simple percent of increase in 
>     airflow and multiply by his old HP...I get 298 RWHP. Does this work, 
>     or are there other factors I need to take into account? The air 
>     pressure now was higher, but the air temperature was lower than when 
>     he made his dyno run.
>     
>     Now...the monkey wrench. On the SAME day he was at the dyno, I was as 
>     well. I made 278 RWHP with only 264 GPS airflow readings. So, if I do 
>     an interpolation using these numbers, I end up with nearly 400 RWHP he 
>     will be making. Now, the 298hp above seems a bit light, but the 400 
>     seems high (would be nice if it is correct though). So, first of all, 
>     does anyone have a formula that predicts power output based on airflow 
>     in GPS? Second, I assume it isn't a linear relationship based on the 
>     above....but should it be?
>     
>     Any feedback would be appreciated!
>     
>     Larry Kurek
>     
>     BTW..please copy my Lkurek@anl.gov address so I can get your response 
>     ASAP.

The difference in the relative GPS/RWHP ratio of yours and your friends car
is due to the efficiency of the two engines at burning the air/feul
mixture, this results from factors such as copression ratio , combustion
chamber shape/size etc, etc.

if you had the figures for the RPM at which the peak HP and GPS were
reached, then you could possibly make an estimation of the new HP reading.

eg. if the first peak reading was obtained at for example 5000 rpm then you
would need the new GPS reading for that rpm...

if the rpm at which the new reading was obtained has varied dramatically,
then it would be back to the dyno....

ask your dyno guy to print you a graph of GPS vs RPM, and RPM vs HP, then
next time you'll be able to estimate better no matter what RPM the new GPS
figure appears at.


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 10:51:58 1998
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Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 00:51:25 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
In-Reply-To: <199804160616.XAA13785@gonzo.wolfenet.com>
References: <01BD6940.54702120@pjaramaz>
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At 11:16 PM 4/15/98 -0700, you wrote:
>
>> The aus kit is just a linear comparator type chip that takes a voltage =
>> from your 1-3 wire sensor and displayes a coloured bar graph. I guess =
>
>LM3914 no doubt.  I have a home built unit.  I use it to make sure
>it isn't going lean under boost.
>
>I look forward to the new ion-pump based design!
>
>Orin.


Yep, you're right on the chip.  I've built around 12 of these, and they are
being used in road and racing applications, and seem to work great.  I'll
be intersted in any new design you may have, as I've got more people
wanting these.


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 11:13:08 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: GM Bins/ecm Q's
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 11:12:56 -0400
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On the flash prom pcm's is that all 1024 file lenght stuff?.  Would
any one happen to have a bin of one that I could see?.

Also, if anyone has any 256, and 512 file lenght bins I'd like to see
some of them.  I'm working on figuring out how the aussie ecms
compare to ours.  It would also be neat if you included the
application (engine size/no. cyl/tranny type/year/model, and best
yet a Broadcast code).

No worries mate
Bruce  


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 11:36:47 1998
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From: Jason Greene <verde1@us.ibm.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Message-ID: <5040200014110825000002L052*@MHS>
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>
>LM3914 no doubt.  I have a home built unit.  I use it to make sure
>it isn't going lean under boost.
>
>I look forward to the new ion-pump based design!
>
>Orin.


Yep, you're right on the chip.  I've built around 12 of these, and they are
being used in road and racing applications, and seem to work great.  I'll
be intersted in any new design you may have, as I've got more people
wanting these.

I posted this before but I'm not sure if it went through, so here it is again.

Jason G.
http://www.students.tut.fi/~eppu/dev/EGO-bar.html

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 11:38:25 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cyberdrive.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 4D installation
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 11:32:35 -0400
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The plate increases the plenum volume so each cylinder can pull from all 4
barrels.  This makes an underside carb flow better.
Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>


>So wadda y'all think?  The 600 cfm carb had a 1" aluminum spacer under it.
> Do I use it w/ the 4D I'm installing?  I've forgotten why the spacer is
>there.  Is it to improve the metering signal to the carb or is it for
>runner tuning, i.e. to lower the rpm at which peak power occurs?  Sheesh.
> Getting old.  My CSH is getting rusty.
>
>Mike J.
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 11:56:11 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 08:56:50 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Sat, 18 Apr 1998 00:51:25 +1000, Matthew Harding
<mharding@qonline.com.au> wrote:

>Yep, you're right on the chip.  I've built around 12 of these, and they are
>being used in road and racing applications, and seem to work great.  I'll
>be intersted in any new design you may have, as I've got more people
>wanting these.

As I've said before, there's gonna be a stipulation in the permission to
use the circuit, that you not be making use of the circuit for
profit-making purposes, without express written permission.

Make as many for you and your pals, AT COST, that you want, but you
start selling them for a profit, and yer name'll be mud, bud.

Just a reminder.

Garfield


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 13:04:07 1998
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Date: Fri, 17 Apr 98 11:56:19 -0600
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF
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     Whoa...time out on this.
     
     Like I said, I had an 89 Z24, and it didn't have VATS and it was a MAP 
     only system. However, I just swapped an 89 Camaro 2.8 into my S10, and 
     not only did it NOT have DIS or VATS, it also has a MAF sensor. Funny 
     thing is, the MAF isn't a hotwire type...it has what looks like a 
     thermistor or something in the airstream, and the circuit board is 
     internally mounted, also in the airstream.
     
     FYI, it kind of ticked me off to find the Camaro motor still had HEI 
     and a MAF. After the Z24, I came to realize the joys of DIS!!!
     
     TTYL!
     
     Larry Kurek


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF
Author:  <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu> at internet
Date:    4/16/98 8:10 PM


  Hi,
 I've been told different things by different people about whether J-body V6s
are MAF or MAP.  According to the schematics I've seen, some are MAF and some 
are MAP based on different years and\or models.  The manuals I have only go up 
to '90, however.
 Does anyone know if any J-bodies are MAP based, and what years or models?  I
don't know if I should trust the Chilton manuals I've been lookin at or not.
 Also, If all I can find is a MAF based system with a 7730 ECM, is this
difficult to convert to MAP?  I realize I'd have to get a prom for a MAP based 
care (F-body V6).  What about the wiring to the MAP?  Is there "vestual" 
wiring in the harness? 
     
Adam
     



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 13:08:30 1998
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Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 18:09:23 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Gus Cameron <gus@bracken.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
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At 08:56 17/04/98 -0700, you wrote:
>On Sat, 18 Apr 1998 00:51:25 +1000, Matthew Harding
><mharding@qonline.com.au> wrote:
>
>>Yep, you're right on the chip.  I've built around 12 of these, and they are
>>being used in road and racing applications, and seem to work great.  I'll
>>be intersted in any new design you may have, as I've got more people
>>wanting these.
>
>As I've said before, there's gonna be a stipulation in the permission to
>use the circuit, that you not be making use of the circuit for
>profit-making purposes, without express written permission.
>
>Make as many for you and your pals, AT COST, that you want, but you
>start selling them for a profit, and yer name'll be mud, bud.
>
>Just a reminder.
>
>Garfield


Garfield,
What a star you are.  I'd love to be able to offer electrical expertese but
it's all I can do to read instructions and use a soldering iron properly.
However, I may be able to offer free web space.  If this would be of use let
me know.
Lets pull this one off.
Gus Cameron.


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 14:14:17 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 11:14:56 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Fri, 17 Apr 1998 18:09:23 +0100, Gus Cameron <gus@bracken.co.uk>
wrote:

>What a star you are.  I'd love to be able to offer electrical expertese but
>it's all I can do to read instructions and use a soldering iron properly.
>However, I may be able to offer free web space.  If this would be of use let
>me know.
>Lets pull this one off.

Yeah, sure. A 'star'. Now that's a hoot. Reminds me of the commercial
where the guy sees this meteorite coming in his telescope, realizes he
has only a few minutes before the earth is toast, decides his last meal
will be quick steak on the barby (it's a commercial for steak sauce).

So anyway, he's relishing his "last bite" as the meteor smacks the
ground right next to him, and it turns out to be about the size of a
charcoal briquette (his telescope may have exaggerated things, ya see).
Hee hee. He just smiles, shrugs, and goes on enjoying his steak.

Thas the kinda star I am, ya know, briquette size, so put yer accolades
away and save em for someone like Princess Di or whoever.

Garfield Willis (sadly not related to Bob Willis, a REAL star)

P.S. Hey, waitaminuto, you're a Brit! Say, I wonder if you could do me a
favor, and look about to see if Subaru in England sells/imports into yer
fine country a model of the Soobs called the Imprezza, that has a 2.0L
DOHC 4banger in it. There are supposedly two variants, a normally
aspirated type, jus refered to as the Imprezza 2.0 (I think), and a
turbo'd version that's popular in Euro for hot-rodding, called the
Imprezza WRX, both 2.0L DOHC.

Reason I'm asking if these are cars imported into your country, is that
engine ISN'T imported into the US domestically, and we've got a couple
guys in our aviation group that are tryna get manuals for the engine
part of the car (we CAN get the engines from Jap engine importers, ya
know the ones that have only bout 30K mi on them). We can't even order
the manuals from here, cuz they aren't listed in the US price list, but
if they knew an English speaking country where they could at least get
the Subaru part no. off the cover of the manual, we could order the
manuals via. the part no. directly from Subaru/Japan (our local dealer
thinks they could pull that off, if they only new the part no.). Soooo,
if you could possibly determine just if these cars ARE in merry ole
England, we could research the rest from there. Be a huge help. TIA.


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 17:17:27 1998
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Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 23:17:20 +0200 (MET DST)
In-Reply-To: <01bd6a13$4cc454e0$5b198fd1@nacelp> from Bruce Plecan at "Apr 17, 98 11:12:56 am"
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Where can i find rom images from a GM ECM 1227749?
I need one from a 4 cyl. and one from a 6 cyl.

Regards 
Daniel Henriksson

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 19:13:41 1998
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Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 00:14:34 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Gus Cameron <gus@bracken.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
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At 11:14 17/04/98 -0700, Garfield wrote:
>
>Yeah, sure. A 'star'. Now that's a hoot. 
snip
>Garfield Willis (sadly not related to Bob Willis, a REAL star)
>
>P.S. Hey, waitaminuto, you're a Brit! Say, I wonder if you could do me a
>favor, and look about to see if Subaru in England sells/imports into yer
>fine country a model of the Soobs called the Imprezza, that has a 2.0L
>DOHC 4banger in it. There are supposedly two variants, a normally
>aspirated type, jus refered to as the Imprezza 2.0 (I think), and a
>turbo'd version that's popular in Euro for hot-rodding, called the
>Imprezza WRX, both 2.0L DOHC.
>
>Reason I'm asking if these are cars imported into your country, is that
>engine ISN'T imported into the US domestically, and we've got a couple
>guys in our aviation group that are tryna get manuals for the engine
>part of the car (we CAN get the engines from Jap engine importers, ya
>know the ones that have only bout 30K mi on them). We can't even order
>the manuals from here, cuz they aren't listed in the US price list, but
>if they knew an English speaking country where they could at least get
>the Subaru part no. off the cover of the manual, we could order the
>manuals via. the part no. directly from Subaru/Japan (our local dealer
>thinks they could pull that off, if they only new the part no.). Soooo,
>if you could possibly determine just if these cars ARE in merry ole
>England, we could research the rest from there. Be a huge help. TIA.
>
>

I'm a Scot actually Jimmie, and a biker to boot, but I'll see what I can dig up.
The Imprezza is over here, Colin McRay (another Scot) won the World Rally
Championship in it I think (remember, I'm a bike boy) but WRX? I'll have to
ask. 
I could even get the manual and send it out. Would a Hanes manual be good
enough or is it the full Monty or nothing? 
Toodle-pip old chum, 
gus ;-)



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 20:45:52 1998
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Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 20:48:29 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF
References: <01bd69ae$ff5309e0$0a0101c0@terryk.foothill.net>
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TBK wrote:
> 
> Mass systems had map too. Therefore on the Mass needs to be added. The EGR
> (digital or linear) may be different. HEI or DIS is slightly different.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ABTSZ <ABTSZ@aol.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Thursday, April 16, 1998 6:05 PM
> Subject: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF
> 
> >  Hi,
> > I've been told different things by different people about whether J-body
> V6s
> >are MAF or MAP.  According to the schematics I've seen, some are MAF and
> some
> >are MAP based on different years and\or models.  The manuals I have only go
> up
> >to '90, however.
> > Does anyone know if any J-bodies are MAP based, and what years or models?
> I
> >don't know if I should trust the Chilton manuals I've been lookin at or
> not.
> > Also, If all I can find is a MAF based system with a 7730 ECM, is this
> >difficult to convert to MAP?  I realize I'd have to get a prom for a MAP
> based
> >care (F-body V6).  What about the wiring to the MAP?  Is there "vestual"
> >wiring in the harness?
> >
> >Adam
> >
There were so many problems with the MASS sensors that GM developed the
speed-density prom rather than replace the mass sensors. Many vehicles
with the mass installed don't use it at all. Eventually they stopped
installing it.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 21:30:50 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 21:30:38 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, April 17, 1998 9:22 PM
Subject: Re: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF


>TBK wrote:
>> Mass systems had map too. Therefore on the Mass needs to be added. The
EGR
>> (digital or linear) may be different. HEI or DIS is slightly different.

>> Subject: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF

.  According to the schematics I've seen, some are MAF and
 some are MAP based on different years and\or models.  The manuals I have
only go up to '90, however.
>> > Does anyone know if any J-bodies are MAP based, and what years or
models?
>> >Adam
>> >
>There were so many problems with the MASS sensors that GM developed the
>speed-density prom rather than replace the mass sensors. Many vehicles
>with the mass installed don't use it at all. Eventually they stopped
>installing it.
>--
You wouldn't happen to have a TSB number on when they were doing this would
you?.  Or a part no for the wire update/prom part no.
would you?.
TIA
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 21:42:36 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 18:41:25 -0700
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The Mass problem existed for a short period time. The thick (thin?) film
mass got used long into the future. It certainly was easier than replacing
all of the mass sensors. However that problem was in 86-87 I think and the J
cars had the mass well into the 90's.

I prefer mass over map any day of the week.......when it works.....If you
are altering the system, the mass is tons more forgiving.

An example is my X-11. With the mass and a very hot aftermarket cam, the
mass flow is correct at about 6 gm/S at idle and 135 gm/S at 6000 RPM. With
the SD system, it reads the ECM "calculated" 20 gm/s at idle and 255 gm/s
(pegged) at 6000 RPM. I don't think so. A lot of correction to the rom is
needed to get it back into reality. Something not a lot of people can do.

That same SD system on the stock 2.8L/3.1L reads correct. Just the cam alone
throws the system off.

On the other hand, SD is simpler to deal with. I do get your point.

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, April 17, 1998 6:20 PM
Subject: Re: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF


>TBK wrote:
>>
>> Mass systems had map too. Therefore on the Mass needs to be added. The
EGR
>> (digital or linear) may be different. HEI or DIS is slightly different.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: ABTSZ <ABTSZ@aol.com>
>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>> Date: Thursday, April 16, 1998 6:05 PM
>> Subject: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF
>>
>> >  Hi,
>> > I've been told different things by different people about whether
J-body
>> V6s
>> >are MAF or MAP.  According to the schematics I've seen, some are MAF and
>> some
>> >are MAP based on different years and\or models.  The manuals I have only
go
>> up
>> >to '90, however.
>> > Does anyone know if any J-bodies are MAP based, and what years or
models?
>> I
>> >don't know if I should trust the Chilton manuals I've been lookin at or
>> not.
>> > Also, If all I can find is a MAF based system with a 7730 ECM, is this
>> >difficult to convert to MAP?  I realize I'd have to get a prom for a MAP
>> based
>> >care (F-body V6).  What about the wiring to the MAP?  Is there "vestual"
>> >wiring in the harness?
>> >
>> >Adam
>> >
>There were so many problems with the MASS sensors that GM developed the
>speed-density prom rather than replace the mass sensors. Many vehicles
>with the mass installed don't use it at all. Eventually they stopped
>installing it.
>--
>                               _/\_
>                       --|-----([])-----|--
>                         S    0/  \0    B
>         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
>                  E-Mail service is back to normal
>                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
>                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
>                                OR
>Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
>spammers!!!
>It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
>Turkeys!!!
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 22:14:14 1998
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Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 22:16:51 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Friday, April 17, 1998 9:22 PM
> Subject: Re: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF
> 
> >TBK wrote:
> >> Mass systems had map too. Therefore on the Mass needs to be added. The
> EGR
> >> (digital or linear) may be different. HEI or DIS is slightly different.
> 
> >> Subject: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF
> 
> .  According to the schematics I've seen, some are MAF and
>  some are MAP based on different years and\or models.  The manuals I have
> only go up to '90, however.
> >> > Does anyone know if any J-bodies are MAP based, and what years or
> models?
> >> >Adam
> >> >
> >There were so many problems with the MASS sensors that GM developed the
> >speed-density prom rather than replace the mass sensors. Many vehicles
> >with the mass installed don't use it at all. Eventually they stopped
> >installing it.
> >--
> You wouldn't happen to have a TSB number on when they were doing this would
> you?.  Or a part no for the wire update/prom part no.
> would you?.
> TIA
> Bruce
No wire update. Just the prom. I don't have thetsb available - might be
able to dig it up next week when I can get to my brother's Mitchel On
Demand system
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 22:50:39 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 19:51:04 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Sat, 18 Apr 1998 00:14:34 +0100, Gus Cameron <gus@bracken.co.uk>
wrote:

>I'm a Scot actually Jimmie, and a biker to boot, but I'll see what I can dig up.
>The Imprezza is over here, Colin McRay (another Scot) won the World Rally
>Championship in it I think (remember, I'm a bike boy) but WRX? I'll have to
>ask. 
>I could even get the manual and send it out. Would a Hanes manual be good
>enough or is it the full Monty or nothing? 
>Toodle-pip old chum, 
>gus ;-)

Beg'in yer pardon, Scotty. There's a fine tradition there, alright.
Shoulda know from that old Scot name Cameron. Sheesh, how coulda miss
that? But I looked at the .uk on your address and presumed d'plume. Oh
well, the brain falls mainly on the plane.

Anyhoo, I don't mean to be ungrateful, but I really do NEED the actual
Subaru official manual (the engine section is refered to as section 2),
so getting the Subaru part no. for it would earn you a place in our
family album, and if you were to ever be able to get the actual thing
itself (at my cost & post, of course, amount immaterial), well I think I
might just remember you in my WILL! Fact I definitely would!

This may be a difficult quest, so I'm makin no assumptions on what's
possible, and ANY info crumbs along the way will be received with
profuse gratitude.

Gar

P.S. Don't be thrown off by my guess at the WRX. I'm interested in BOTH
the normally aspirated and turbo'd info on the engine, but for me,
primarily the NA engine, anyway. Others in the group need the turbo
info.


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 17 23:56:44 1998
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Bruce Plecan wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Friday, April 17, 1998 9:22 PM
> Subject: Re: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF
>
> >TBK wrote:
> >> Mass systems had map too. Therefore on the Mass needs to be added. The
> EGR
> >> (digital or linear) may be different. HEI or DIS is slightly different.
>
> >> Subject: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF
>
> .  According to the schematics I've seen, some are MAF and
>  some are MAP based on different years and\or models.  The manuals I have
> only go up to '90, however.
> >> > Does anyone know if any J-bodies are MAP based, and what years or
> models?
> >> >Adam
> >> >
> >There were so many problems with the MASS sensors that GM developed the
> >speed-density prom rather than replace the mass sensors. Many vehicles
> >with the mass installed don't use it at all. Eventually they stopped
> >installing it.
> >--
> You wouldn't happen to have a TSB number on when they were doing this would
> you?.  Or a part no for the wire update/prom part no.
> would you?.
> TIA
> Bruce

  I've seen some J-cars in the junkyard that had a GM decal under the hood
indicating that the EFI system had been converted to speed-density.  It looked
like a TSB sticker.  Don't remember what year had this.
Mr. Goatwrench


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 18 05:58:35 1998
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Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 10:59:27 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Gus Cameron <gus@bracken.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Subaru Manuals.  Was Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES,
  it's finally ALIVE!!)
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Garfield, Yes, I can help, but we are getting off topic so I'll email you
privately.

snip
>Anyhoo, I don't mean to be ungrateful, but I really do NEED the actual
>Subaru official manual (the engine section is refered to as section 2),
>so getting the Subaru part no. for it would earn you a place in our
>family album, and if you were to ever be able to get the actual thing
>itself (at my cost & post, of course, amount immaterial), well I think I
>might just remember you in my WILL! Fact I definitely would!
>
>This may be a difficult quest, so I'm makin no assumptions on what's
>possible, and ANY info crumbs along the way will be received with
>profuse gratitude.
>
>Gar
>
>P.S. Don't be thrown off by my guess at the WRX. I'm interested in BOTH
>the normally aspirated and turbo'd info on the engine, but for me,
>primarily the NA engine, anyway. Others in the group need the turbo
>info.
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 18 10:33:04 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 1227747 pinout
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 10:32:53 -0400
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For those of you working on the bench 747 part of the Prog 101,
or those of your swapping to one here is a pinout.
The * means optional, or emission related

A1     drk grn/wht     Fuel pump relay
A2     Brn                 Air Port*
A3     Grn/Yel          Canister Purge*
A4     Gray               EGR*
A5     brn/wht           SES Light
A6     pnk/blk           Ign power
A7     Tan/Blk          MT/Shift, or TCC*
A8     orgn               Serial Data
A9     Wht/Blk         Diagnostic Test
A10   brn                 VSS
A11  blk/Pnk          MAP Grnd
A12  Blk/Wht          ECM Grnd

B1     orgn               Battery
B2     Tan/Wht        fuel pump input
B3     blk/red           Dist ref low
B5     ppl/wht           Distr  ref pulse
B7     blk                  EST  Retard
B8     Grn                A/C Signal*
B10  org/blk            P/N Switch

C3-6  blu/grn's        IAC
C8    Drk Grn          4th gear switch*
C9    ppl/wht           Crank
C10  yel                  Coolant temp
C11  lt grn              Map
C13  Drk Blu         TPS
C14  gry                 5v ref (sensors)
C16  orng              battery

D1+2 blk               grounds
D4    wht                Spark timing out
D5    tan/blk          Ign mod bypass
D6    tan                Ox ref low
D7    ppl                Ox sesnor high
D15+16                Injector
D14+C15             Injector 

If anyone finds an error please yell right away (other than 
spelling).
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 18 11:43:18 1998
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Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 10:46:05 -0700
From: David Garnier <garnierd@csd.uwm.edu>
Organization: Say What?
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Subject: GM Speed Density for 2.8L W engine
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Bruce

I am a newbee to here but maybe I can contribute something to the
group. I own a 86 cebebrity eurosport with 2.8L W engine with the 
speed density update, maybe I can help here.

The speed density tag on the front passenger shock tower is 10154721. 
I think that is the service bulletin number because it is also
on the ecm's metal prom cover.  The remanufactured ECM number is:
16196344. On the memcal socket-base there is stamped: 86767 with 
9030 maybe being the date code.  The prom label reads: ASMZ 0742 
and there is a thick film ceramic hybrid next to it (the corner 
which overhags the eprom) with a number of: 5A0213.  Both of these
device are solder into the memcal socket (%^&*)!  Any ideas why
there is this hybrid?  There is a GM publication for this update
and it is listed under the Celebrity section of Helm's publications
called: "87-88 driveability and emissions manual section 6E" the 
pub number of: "ST 399-87/88SD." I think the value of this pub
is limited but all of the GM's ECM trouble shooting and circuity
is in one small book.

I am trying to dump this eprom, but I have been busy lately.
I built a wire wrap socket extension so that I won't have to
lift the eprom out and possible crack the ceramic hybrid which
overhangs one end; the bastards have soldered these devices onto
the memcal socket!  Work's dataio is too damn smart for itself 
because it wants the exact device number before one can examine
it. I understand that there is a selection to disable the prom ID 
checking but I have been to busy to check.  If you or anyone else
is interested, I will send you the prom file when I finally dump it.

dave garnier
-- 

------------------------------------------------------------------------->
Dave Garnier                    Nobody told me that there would be days 
|
University Wisc-Milwaukee       like these, strange days indeed, most   
|
h 414-429-3536                  perculiar mama!         - John Lennon - 
|
w     647-4286                                                          
|
ars  wb9own 44.92.1.8                                                   
|
http://www.uwm.edu/~garnierd                                            
|
------------------------------------------------------------------------->

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 18 14:15:17 1998
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Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 11:18:13 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
In-Reply-To: <35c277b6.123961296@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
References: <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au>
 <01BD6940.54702120@pjaramaz>
 <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au>
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YES, I think that this should be true of ALL stuff designed here, and if you
are going to do something and make $$ with the designs, the (all) people
involved must be contacted. Just a respect thing!!

Sandy

>
>As I've said before, there's gonna be a stipulation in the permission to
>use the circuit, that you not be making use of the circuit for
>profit-making purposes, without express written permission.
>
>Make as many for you and your pals, AT COST, that you want, but you
>start selling them for a profit, and yer name'll be mud, bud.
>
>Just a reminder.
>
>Garfield
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 18 15:42:17 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GM Speed Density for 2.8L W engine
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 15:42:07 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: David Garnier <garnierd@csd.uwm.edu>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Cc: garnierd@batch3.csd.uwm.edu <garnierd@batch3.csd.uwm.edu>;
nacelp@bright.net <nacelp@bright.net>
Date: Saturday, April 18, 1998 12:15 PM
Subject: GM Speed Density for 2.8L W engine


>Bruce
>
>I am a newbee to here but maybe I can contribute something to the
>group. I own a 86 cebebrity eurosport with 2.8L W engine with the
>speed density update, maybe I can help here.
>
>The speed density tag on the front passenger shock tower is 10154721.
 The remanufactured ECM number is: 16196344. The prom label reads: ASMZ 0742
Any ideas why
>there is this hybrid?
>I am trying to dump this eprom, but I have been busy lately.
>I built a wire wrap socket extension so that I won't have to
>lift the eprom out and possible crack the ceramic hybrid which
>overhangs one end; the bastards have soldered these devices onto
>the memcal socket!  Work's dataio is too damn smart for itself
>because it wants the exact device number before one can examine
>it. I understand that there is a selection to disable the prom ID
>checking but I have been to busy to check.  If you or anyone else
>is interested, I will send you the prom file when I finally dump it.
>
>dave garnier
>--
That is interesting, I show that as having a 1227302 originally, and
that's a C-3, with two ecm connectors.  Yet you say the replacement
has a memcal.  Sounds like maybe a version of a 165?.  Does that
make sense to anyone?..  Ya I'd like to see a bin. on that.
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 18 15:56:05 1998
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Don't you think you invoking a double standard. Look at this group
breaking O2 meter using an existing meter , reverse engineer GM boxes .
It will happen any way and there is no way to protect if they are in the
weeds reading mail . It will be built with a twist in the design . If
you don't want it copied DON' T post it.
After all, the posts are public domain you talk on the net the world
knows ,this is great power of the net and if it drops the price of the
standard unit down to $200 due to competition the goal was met. Remember
not all members want to build one, they want to use one. Build some pc
boards and sell them to the members and make a profit after all this is
the American way. I'll buy one.




Steve

Sandy wrote:

> YES, I think that this should be true of ALL stuff designed here, and
> if you
> are going to do something and make $$ with the designs, the (all)
> people
> involved must be contacted. Just a respect thing!!
>
> Sandy
>
> >
> >As I've said before, there's gonna be a stipulation in the permission
> to
> >use the circuit, that you not be making use of the circuit for
> >profit-making purposes, without express written permission.
> >
> >Make as many for you and your pals, AT COST, that you want, but you
> >start selling them for a profit, and yer name'll be mud, bud.
> >
> >Just a reminder.
> >
> >Garfield
> >




From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 18 18:23:17 1998
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From: "Steve Baldwin" <steveb@kcbbs.gen.nz>
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> After all, the posts are public domain

Posts are NOT in the public domain. They are copyrighted by the 
originator unless there is a statement by that person to put them 
into the public domain. There is no requirement to put any copyright 
mark on anything you write but it is useful if you want to defend it.

However, copyright only protects against copying. If you use the 
information in a circuit to determine how the sensor works and come 
up with something original (which may be extremely similar), 
copyright doesn't stop you from doing it. Preventing that requires 
other measures.

[I'm no lawyer and this advice is worth what you are paying for it]

Steve.


======================================================
Steve Baldwin                Electronic Product Design
TLA Microsystems Ltd         Microcontroller Specialists
PO Box 15-680, New Lynn      http://www.tla.co.nz
Auckland, New Zealand        ph  +64 9 820-2221
email: steveb@tla.co.nz      fax +64 9 820-1929
======================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 18 23:07:54 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 747 Pinout
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 23:07:42 -0400
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OK, I'll admit it, the pinout I posted early today should be right for 
a V-8 747, if someone would check and make sure that it holds
true for a v-6, that might make things easier for someone working
on a v-6.
Cheers 
Bruce        Yep, the Cone Shaped Hat was on while typing the
                  the pinout....


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 18 23:42:03 1998
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Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 21:29:22 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Friday, April 17, 1998 9:22 PM
> Subject: Re: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF
> 
> >TBK wrote:
> >> Mass systems had map too. Therefore on the Mass needs to be added. The
> EGR
> >> (digital or linear) may be different. HEI or DIS is slightly different.
> 
> >> Subject: J-bodies and MAP vs MAF
> 
> .  According to the schematics I've seen, some are MAF and
>  some are MAP based on different years and\or models.  The manuals I have
> only go up to '90, however.
> >> > Does anyone know if any J-bodies are MAP based, and what years or
> models?
> >> >Adam
> >> >
> >There were so many problems with the MASS sensors that GM developed the
> >speed-density prom rather than replace the mass sensors. Many vehicles
> >with the mass installed don't use it at all. Eventually they stopped
> >installing it.
> >--
> You wouldn't happen to have a TSB number on when they were doing this would
> you?.  Or a part no for the wire update/prom part no.
> would you?.
> TIA
> Bruce

Service Bulletin # 88-440-6e (from 1997 techline cd)
part# for the label is 10154725
list of prom part#'s for various vehicle configurations, '87
and '88
no wiring changes.

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 18 23:47:15 1998
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Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 21:34:35 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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David Garnier wrote:
> 
> Bruce
> 
> I am a newbee to here but maybe I can contribute something to the
> group. I own a 86 cebebrity eurosport with 2.8L W engine with the
> speed density update, maybe I can help here.
> 
> The speed density tag on the front passenger shock tower is 10154721.
> I think that is the service bulletin number because it is also
> on the ecm's metal prom cover.  The remanufactured ECM number is:
> 16196344. On the memcal socket-base there is stamped: 86767 with
> 9030 maybe being the date code.  The prom label reads: ASMZ 0742
> and there is a thick film ceramic hybrid next to it (the corner
> which overhags the eprom) with a number of: 5A0213.  Both of these
> device are solder into the memcal socket (%^&*)!  Any ideas why
> there is this hybrid?  There is a GM publication for this update
> and it is listed under the Celebrity section of Helm's publications
> called: "87-88 driveability and emissions manual section 6E" the
> pub number of: "ST 399-87/88SD." I think the value of this pub
> is limited but all of the GM's ECM trouble shooting and circuity
> is in one small book.
> 
> I am trying to dump this eprom, but I have been busy lately.
> I built a wire wrap socket extension so that I won't have to
> lift the eprom out and possible crack the ceramic hybrid which
> overhangs one end; the bastards have soldered these devices onto
> the memcal socket!  Work's dataio is too damn smart for itself
> because it wants the exact device number before one can examine
> it. I understand that there is a selection to disable the prom ID
> checking but I have been to busy to check.  If you or anyone else
> is interested, I will send you the prom file when I finally dump it.
> 
> dave garnier
> --
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------->
> Dave Garnier                    Nobody told me that there would be days
> |
> University Wisc-Milwaukee       like these, strange days indeed, most
> |
> h 414-429-3536                  perculiar mama!         - John Lennon -
> |
> w     647-4286
> |
> ars  wb9own 44.92.1.8
> |
> http://www.uwm.edu/~garnierd
> |
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------->
Was that ECM remanufactured by Delco?
ASMZ prom fits 87 A body (Celebrity) with 2.8, 4spd auto,
federal emiss.
Should be removable.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 19 00:19:23 1998
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Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 21:22:56 -0700
From: Dan Painter <dpainter@anv.net>
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I'm interested in making one of these EGO sensors myself (are they
really used to find opinionated people? hehe).  I used to be in the Auto
Parts biz and still have a few good connections for foreign parts. Are
these sensors Honda OE only or are they made for Honda by someone else? 
If someone could email me the specifics, I'd be glad to chase down the
best deal I can find and report back to the group.

Dan
-- 
Dan Painter
dpainter@anv.net
His-n-Her 87 GN's

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 19 06:38:17 1998
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Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 20:37:14 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
In-Reply-To: <35390373.67DC0858@mwt.net>
References: <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au>
 <01BD6940.54702120@pjaramaz>
 <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au>
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At 02:48 PM 4/18/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Don't you think you invoking a double standard. Look at this group
>breaking O2 meter using an existing meter , reverse engineer GM boxes .
>It will happen any way and there is no way to protect if they are in the
>weeds reading mail . It will be built with a twist in the design . If
>you don't want it copied DON' T post it.
>After all, the posts are public domain you talk on the net the world
>knows ,this is great power of the net and if it drops the price of the
>standard unit down to $200 due to competition the goal was met. Remember
>not all members want to build one, they want to use one. Build some pc
>boards and sell them to the members and make a profit after all this is
>the American way. I'll buy one.
>
>
>
>
>Steve
>
>Sandy wrote:
>
>> YES, I think that this should be true of ALL stuff designed here, and
>> if you
>> are going to do something and make $$ with the designs, the (all)
>> people
>> involved must be contacted. Just a respect thing!!
>>
>> Sandy
>>
>> >
>> >As I've said before, there's gonna be a stipulation in the permission
>> to
>> >use the circuit, that you not be making use of the circuit for
>> >profit-making purposes, without express written permission.
>> >
>> >Make as many for you and your pals, AT COST, that you want, but you
>> >start selling them for a profit, and yer name'll be mud, bud.
>> >
>> >Just a reminder.
>> >
>> >Garfield

Thanks steve,

I'm a uni student, with a little electronic background.  I build and sell
things at VERY SMALL profit....

barely enough to make my time worthwhile.

Why shouldn't I?

I am most definenly not talking about setting up a comercial manufacturing
business.




From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 19 07:31:39 1998
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Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 21:36:45 +1000
From: Justin Albury <jalbury@tpgi.com.au>
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Jesse R. Ortiz wrote:
> 
> If anyone here has any experience with the Fueltronics TCC3, or any of the
> other Turbo Control Centeres, could you please E-mail me? I would like to
> know what anyone thought/thinks of it, especially the additional Injector
> controller part of it...
> 
> Please e-mail with any info....  It would be very much appreciated....
> 
> jr


I have used the TCC3 in a supra and came up with some very good results.
ran 15 psi boost and got more than a 50% increase in HP on the dyno :-)

very easy to install...martin has done a good job on these little
suckers.  they are finnished off in a very pro. looking case which
fitted in on the supra very nice.  have a look at the fueltronics home
page for more details....  they are in south australia phone 0883632199

justin

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 19 16:00:00 1998
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Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 21:00:46 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Gus Cameron <gus@bracken.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
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>At 02:48 PM 4/18/98 -0500, Steven Gorkowski wrote:
snip

>>Don't you think you invoking a double standard. 
*snip*
>>this is great power of the net 
*snip*
>>Build some pc boards and sell them to the members and make a 
>>profit after all this is the American way.


And the other great power of the net (and even this group) is that we are
not all from the USA.


>>
>>Steve
>>
>At 20:37 19/04/98 +1000, Matthew Harding wrote:
>
>I'm a uni student, with a little electronic background.  I build and sell
>things at VERY SMALL profit....
>
>barely enough to make my time worthwhile.
>
>Why shouldn't I?
>

FLAME ON
If you don't know yet, don't worry.  You will when you grow up.
FLAME OFF

The golden rule of newsgroups?  If you have not got anything to give, don't
take (not even bandwidth).

>I am most definenly not talking about setting up a comercial manufacturing
>business.
>
>

Bully for you.

Cheers me dears,
Gus 



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 19 16:51:59 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <jewett@sunset.net>
To: "Do-it-Yourself Fuel Injection" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Prog 101
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 13:58:41 -0700
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Hello all,

Well after several attempts I am now on the list, wheew.. I was hoping
someone might bring me up to speed on this prog 101 project...? My ultimate
objective is to assemble a myrid of components to form a "vanilla" EFI
setup for use on a small block chevy. As well play with the fuel/timing
maps to dial in my effort.

As well is there anyone out ther that has played with the older feedback
ECM's?? Anyone ever here of a prom programmer for these vintage units?  


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 19 17:04:26 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 14:05:05 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
Message-ID: <35615eba.48344015@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
References: <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au> <01BD6940.54702120@pjaramaz> <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au> <199804181815.LAA19696@mail.wgn.net> <35390373.67DC0858@mwt.net>
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On Sat, 18 Apr 1998 14:48:04 -0500, Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
wrote:

>Remember
>not all members want to build one, they want to use one. Build some pc
>boards and sell them to the members and make a profit after all this is
>the American way.

At the risk of adding to this tempest-ina-teapot, I do want to respond
to one part of that last statement, cuz it's got a nasty lil zinger in
it I can't let by. (A zinger that Steve possiblymean to put his John
Hancock to?, I might add). And it's not really personal, per se, but
bears directly on what these internet groups are hopefully all about.

To wit: "sell them to the members and make a profit, after all this is
the American way".

Well, the business opportunities and freedoms are wunnerful in my
country, which I'm very enamored of, BTW. But you just mustn't lump
every social phenomenon under this "business process paradigm", without
horrific effects. That's why I choose to be involved in many social
relationships where I and the others don't CHARGE each other anything
for contributing to each other's fun and enjoyment. You do these kinda
things, share your tools, give of your time and efforts, etc. because
you see the others as friends, pals, chums, mates, comrades, whatever
word you wanna use, INSTEAD of clients, customers, vendors, patrons,
etc. If you wanna be crude and extreme about it, ask yourself what your
mother's done for you lately.

So that's why I was tryna encourage anyone who has friends that want one
of these meters but can't (for whatever reason, time, money, skillset),
to go ahead and build them one, just do it as a friend mutually enjoying
a sport, instead of as a business opportunity. I don't have ANYTHING
whatsoever against business, but if you intend to make one out of me or
my friend's efforts we're freely sharing with you because we think of
YOU as a pal too, well, then you need to deal with us just like you're
thinking, as businessmen; and get some commercial agreement in place
before you go sucking up on our labors we're sharing AMONG FRIENDS and
fellow sportsmen, for free.

Now, why you might ask, am I stirring up this silly pot, and why is this
important enough to jabber about? Well, I'm part of a sport called
eXperimental aViation, a sport born out of the grand adventure of flight
that started this century, that Orville and Wilbur were a part of. What
you see happening in so many sports, and of late especially in XA, is
that just as soon as someone comes up to speed on some aspect, and has
gathered all the gems he can from all those in the sport, he decides
he's "got something" special, and he's no longer gonna share it as a
sportsman, but he's gonna retire from his normal job, and turn his
hobby/sport into a cash cow. So he clams up, doesn't contribute anything
to the sport anymore, and in fact often trys to make his area of
interest seem like it's soooo specialized that nobody but he (and any
others "just tryin to make a buck off the sport") can fathom, and that
all further eXperimentation should cease and folks should just BUY their
stuff from him. Cute huh? Sadly, this has been happening since the dawn
of the sport (Orville & Wilbur even got caught up in the greed thang a
bit), cuz of course, kinda like these mucho-better O2 meters in a
smaller way, people see a "monetary opportunity".

Nuthin wrong with treating sumthin as a commercial vendor, really, but
I'd say you do that and you just excised yerself from the category as a
fellow-sportsman/hobbyist/afficianado. Thas the contrast I was tryna
make; I got no anti-business agenda, not at all. I was just sayin, "this
stuff is for me diy_efi pals that have given me so much enjoyment and
knowledge through the group's beehive of activity, but it's NOT for you
for free if you wanna milk it as a business venture". That's all, dudes.
Nothin more to it. Simple statement, me thinks.

Garfield

P.S. Representing simply using an NTK box and observing how it works, as
the same as reverse-engineering it, and equivalent to opening the box
and copying the circuit,is absolute bullshit, and a gross insult to both
myself and Frank Parker's intelligence and integrity. I designed the
circuit; I didn't need to copy anyone else's work; and certainly not
take credit for it, once I had. I strongly resent the suggestion, so if
you plan on pursuing it, count on being trounced if I see you in person.
That's also "the American way". Heh.

Now let's resume the fun, and forget these nacent sport-parasites.


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 19 17:14:56 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 14:15:36 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
Message-ID: <35636965.51075500@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
References: <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au> <01BD6940.54702120@pjaramaz> <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au> <199804181815.LAA19696@mail.wgn.net> <35390373.67DC0858@mwt.net> <35615eba.48344015@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
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On Sun, 19 Apr 1998 14:05:05 -0700, garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

Oh crap, in the heat of the tempest, I screwed up my typing somewhat;
here are some corrections to my last soliloquy. Crumbs, I don't normally
write on something I have to be "careful" about, so I didn't proof read
this till later. Sigh.

>At the risk of adding to this tempest-ina-teapot, I do want to respond
>to one part of that last statement, cuz it's got a nasty lil zinger in
>it I can't let by. (A zinger that Steve possiblymean to put his John
>Hancock to?, I might add).

The thing in parens should read (A zinger that Stever possibly didn't
mean to put his John Hancock to?, I might add).

>Now let's resume the fun, and forget these nacent sport-parasites.

The word is spelled nascent, not "nacent". Sheesh, when I'm brewing up
my one one-liners, I HATE to mangle the delivery. Grumble.

Gar



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 19 18:12:24 1998
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Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 18:09:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: Derek Jewett <jewett@sunset.net>
cc: Do-it-Yourself Fuel Injection <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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> Hello all,
> 
> Well after several attempts I am now on the list, wheew.. I was hoping
> someone might bring me up to speed on this prog 101 project...?

do you need the posting made to the 101 project,i saved them all and i can
send it to you ???

Alain Toussaint


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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 08:23:03 +1000
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BD6C35.8A252AC0
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>Garfield Willis (sadly not related to Bob Willis, a REAL star)

>P.S. Hey, waitaminuto, you're a Brit! Say, I wonder if you could do me =
a
>favor, and look about to see if Subaru in England sells/imports into =
yer
>fine country a model of the Soobs called the Imprezza, that has a 2.0L
>DOHC 4banger in it. There are supposedly two variants, a normally
>aspirated type, jus refered to as the Imprezza 2.0 (I think), and a
>turbo'd version that's popular in Euro for hot-rodding, called the
>Imprezza WRX, both 2.0L DOHC.


Got 'em in Oz. The WRX is a smallish 4 door, 4wd, 2.0L Turbo flat 4. =
O-100 (KMH) in mid 6s, 1/4 in mid 14's (there are magazine tests that =
calim 5.5 and 13.6 but are generally considered to be either wrong, or a =
car with boost problems (wink wink), another mag hooked a boost gauge up =
to a demo car and found it to be about 5 psi over the factory claimed =
boost)

Anyway, the engine code is EJ20(T?). I have a list somewhere of all the =
EJ20 variants. I'll try find it and post.

Cheers,

Peter  
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 19 20:51:56 1998
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Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 19:47:17 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Carter Hendricks <carterh@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
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At 02:05 PM 4/19/98 -0700, garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

[lot's of cool stuff]

                                                BRAVO!

                                                        --Carter


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 19 22:43:36 1998
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From: "wattsg" <geoff@omen.com.au>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 10:44:35 +0800
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Subaru australia has these beasties here.  Lots of locals drive the
(ludicrously quick) WRX's around, because the bang-for-buck value can't be
beaten (~ $40,000aus, does the 1/4 mile in 14.4 seconds, and handles like a
champ - with scope for cheap hp improvement)

I don't have any friends working for Suby dealers, but the service manual
should be gettable by faxing a dealer or subaru themselves.

Check www.yellowpages.com.au, and search for subaru.

Regards,
geoff

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of
garfield@pilgrimhouse.com
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 1998 2:15
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)


On Fri, 17 Apr 1998 18:09:23 +0100, Gus Cameron <gus@bracken.co.uk>
wrote:

P.S. Hey, waitaminuto, you're a Brit! Say, I wonder if you could do me a
favor, and look about to see if Subaru in England sells/imports into yer
fine country a model of the Soobs called the Imprezza, that has a 2.0L
DOHC 4banger in it. There are supposedly two variants, a normally
aspirated type, jus refered to as the Imprezza 2.0 (I think), and a
turbo'd version that's popular in Euro for hot-rodding, called the
Imprezza WRX, both 2.0L DOHC.

Reason I'm asking if these are cars imported into your country, is that
engine ISN'T imported into the US domestically, and we've got a couple
guys in our aviation group that are tryna get manuals for the engine
part of the car (we CAN get the engines from Jap engine importers, ya
know the ones that have only bout 30K mi on them). We can't even order
the manuals from here, cuz they aren't listed in the US price list, but
if they knew an English speaking country where they could at least get
the Subaru part no. off the cover of the manual, we could order the
manuals via. the part no. directly from Subaru/Japan (our local dealer
thinks they could pull that off, if they only new the part no.). Soooo,
if you could possibly determine just if these cars ARE in merry ole
England, we could research the rest from there. Be a huge help. TIA.


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 19 22:45:46 1998
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Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 19:40:38 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: eric schumacher <e.schumacher@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: GM Speed Density for 2.8L W engine
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Hi Chuck

I am located in North Hills in the SF valley at the junction of the 5 & 405 fry.

At 09:34 PM 4/18/98 -0600, you wrote:
>David Garnier wrote:
>> 
>> Bruce
>> 
>> I am a newbee to here but maybe I can contribute something to the
>> group. I own a 86 cebebrity eurosport with 2.8L W engine with the
>> speed density update, maybe I can help here.
>> 
>> The speed density tag on the front passenger shock tower is 10154721.
>> I think that is the service bulletin number because it is also
>> on the ecm's metal prom cover.  The remanufactured ECM number is:
>> 16196344. On the memcal socket-base there is stamped: 86767 with
>> 9030 maybe being the date code.  The prom label reads: ASMZ 0742
>> and there is a thick film ceramic hybrid next to it (the corner
>> which overhags the eprom) with a number of: 5A0213.  Both of these
>> device are solder into the memcal socket (%^&*)!  Any ideas why
>> there is this hybrid?  There is a GM publication for this update
>> and it is listed under the Celebrity section of Helm's publications
>> called: "87-88 driveability and emissions manual section 6E" the
>> pub number of: "ST 399-87/88SD." I think the value of this pub
>> is limited but all of the GM's ECM trouble shooting and circuity
>> is in one small book.
>> 
>> I am trying to dump this eprom, but I have been busy lately.
>> I built a wire wrap socket extension so that I won't have to
>> lift the eprom out and possible crack the ceramic hybrid which
>> overhangs one end; the bastards have soldered these devices onto
>> the memcal socket!  Work's dataio is too damn smart for itself
>> because it wants the exact device number before one can examine
>> it. I understand that there is a selection to disable the prom ID
>> checking but I have been to busy to check.  If you or anyone else
>> is interested, I will send you the prom file when I finally dump it.
>> 
>> dave garnier
>> --
>> 
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------->
>> Dave Garnier                    Nobody told me that there would be days
>> |
>> University Wisc-Milwaukee       like these, strange days indeed, most
>> |
>> h 414-429-3536                  perculiar mama!         - John Lennon -
>> |
>> w     647-4286
>> |
>> ars  wb9own 44.92.1.8
>> |
>> http://www.uwm.edu/~garnierd
>> |
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------->
>Was that ECM remanufactured by Delco?
>ASMZ prom fits 87 A body (Celebrity) with 2.8, 4spd auto,
>federal emiss.
>Should be removable.
>
>Shannen
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 00:46:09 1998
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Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 23:49:11 -0700
From: David Garnier <garnierd@csd.uwm.edu>
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Shannen

>
>ASMZ prom fits 87 A body (Celebrity) with 2.8, 4spd auto,
>federal emiss.

God, you are good! :-) Yep you got most of it, other than
it's a eurosport wagon with 3.31 gears.  I was surprised to 
find that there was different versions for different gear 
ratios... I rememeber hearing someplace that transmissions 
are calibrated to engines these days.  When I was at my local 
Chevy dealer, I asked what is suppose to be in there and I 
got the following. ECM's started as 1227730, then 16198262 
and then some others; I then started to get overloaded with 
the details.  I copied down off his tube, 1388ADCK, 3024ADRF, 
5486AAXN and 4456ADRF for memcals. I will go back there again
and verify this data. I have been looking for another Celebrity
with 2.8W engine without the speed density revision but I 
haven't even found a speed density equiped Celebrity yet. The
bone yards I go to have the ECM already yanked and sorted only 
by ECM number, $35 to $45 seems to be the going price in the 
yards I have visited.  I would like to try MAT version once 
and see how it feels, seat of the pants that is.  

>Was that ECM remanufactured by Delco?

I assume so since it had the typical GM stickon number and
barcode.  The one I found for my wifes 90 olds 3.3L did say
it was remanufactured by Delco, so go figure.

So, how where you able to tell me what I had?  Have a good
friend or work for mister goodwrench? ;-)

thanks

dave garnier
--

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 09:32:59 1998
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From: "Gregory A. Parmer" <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
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On Sun, 19 Apr 1998, Derek Jewett wrote:
> Well after several attempts I am now on the list, wheew.. I was hoping
> someone might bring me up to speed on this prog 101 project...? My ultimate


Several of us are trying to get up to speed.  :)  Visit the DIY-EFI
web site and search for "101". I think everybody's pretty much after
the same thing. We're planning on using a GM ECMs from the late
80s and early 90s for a starting ground---especially the 1227747. 

http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

-greg


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 10:22:56 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <jewett@sunset.net>
To: "Do-it-Yourself Fuel Injection" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 747 vs. 730
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 07:28:35 -0700
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Bruce.. You mentioned 747, but I looked all over town and was not able to
come up with one, what I did find and bought was a 730 ECM, out of an 89
Beretta... Is this compatible with the 747 at all...???  

Thanks..

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 10:34:51 1998
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On Sat, 18 Apr 1998, Bruce Plecan wrote:
> For those of you working on the bench 747 part of the Prog 101,

Gives "bench racing" new meaning!  My harness is from
a 1988 88 Olds ('783), so I know I've got differences related
to the DIS (and MAF?).  I've noted my diffs and additions
with "**"--mostly for my records.  May be worth a look though.

-greg


> A1     drk grn/wht     Fuel pump relay
> A2     Brn                 Air Port*
         **Grn/blk**

> A3     Grn/Yel          Canister Purge*
> A4     Gray               EGR*
> A5     brn/wht           SES Light
> A6     pnk/blk           Ign power
> A7     Tan/Blk          MT/Shift, or TCC*
> A8     orgn               Serial Data
> A9     Wht/Blk         Diagnostic Test
> A10   brn                 VSS
             [becomes Brn/white INSIDE THE CAR---ECM harness same]

> A11  blk/Pnk          MAP Grnd
  **A11   Blue**

> A12  Blk/Wht          ECM Grnd
> 
> B1     orgn               Battery
> B2     Tan/Wht        fuel pump input
> B3     blk/red           Dist ref low
  **B4   Wht     Sumthin in DIS**

> B5     ppl/wht           Distr  ref pulse
  **B6   Yellow  ?**

> B7     blk                  EST  Retard
  **B7    yellow/blk   To sumthing DIS(?) on firewall**

> B8     Grn                A/C Signal*
> B10  org/blk            P/N Switch
> 
> C3-6  blu/grn's        IAC
> C8    Drk Grn          4th gear switch*
  **C7  Drk Grn    to trans connector**
  **C8  Lght Blu   to trans connector**

> C9    ppl/wht           Crank
  **C9  yel   to inside the car**

> C10  yel                  Coolant temp
> C11  lt grn              Map
  **C11  biege**
  **C12  Blk/yel  (it was an SFI inj on the '783!---
                   ----lose this one)**

> C13  Drk Blu         TPS
> C14  gry                 5v ref (sensors)
  **C15  (another SFI inj---not used in '747)**

> C16  orng              battery
> 
> D1+2 blk               grounds
  **D2 Grn   to ???  **

> D4    wht                Spark timing out
  **D4  empty -- I gotta find a new wire for that one!**

> D5    tan/blk          Ign mod bypass
  **D5    tan**

> D6    tan                Ox ref low
                           **Ie., grnd**

> D7    ppl                Ox sesnor high
  **D11  Blk/pnk    AC Relay and a sensor of some sort**

> D15+16                Injector
> D14+C15             Injector  


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 11:16:32 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 747 vs. 730
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 11:16:09 -0400
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>Bruce.. You mentioned 747, but I looked all over town and was not able to
come up with one, what I did find and bought was a 730 ECM, out of an 89
Beretta... Is this compatible with the 747 at all...???
>
>Thanks..


As far as I know the 747 was used for TBI applications and the 730
was used for TPI, in oem designs.  Depending on the success of the 747
project hopefully we'll do the 730.
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 11:18:07 1998
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Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 12:18:40 -0300 (ADT)
From: Dennis J Fagundo <fagunddj@newton.ccs.tuns.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Still looking for Impreza info? (Garfield?)
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Hi.

to whoever was looking for the Impreza info.  I just got home (Bermuda)
from school and saw an ad for the impreza if the parts manuals are needed
or whatever let me know and I will see what I can do.

have been learning a ton from this list and would love to be able to help.

Dennis

________________________________________________

Dennis Fagundo
fagunddj@tuns.ca
dfagundo@ibl.bm
Technical University of Nova Scotia
http://www.tuns.ca/~fagunddj

_______________________________________________


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 13:21:40 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Still looking for Impreza info? (Garfield?)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 10:22:19 -0700
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On Mon, 20 Apr 1998 12:18:40 -0300 (ADT), Dennis J Fagundo
<fagunddj@newton.ccs.tuns.ca> wrote:

>to whoever was looking for the Impreza info.  I just got home (Bermuda)
>from school and saw an ad for the impreza if the parts manuals are needed
>or whatever let me know and I will see what I can do.
>
>have been learning a ton from this list and would love to be able to help.

Hey Dennis.

Yeah, I know the feeling. We've got a couple guys working on it, got one
contact I can pursue over in the UK (thanks to Gus Cameron) and another
guy in Oz is looking for a sheet he thinks he has with a full taxonomy
of that engine/models/yr/power/etc (TIA to Peter Jaramaz).

But since this is sorta off-topic for the list, and I'd like to find out
a little bit more from ya, I'll carry on via email after this one, OK?

Mainly I'm intrigued that NS would be importing them, but that they
somehow missed main Canuckland? Seems odd. Anyway, talk to ya later via
email. Thanks for the kind offer to help. Most appreciated.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 15:37:16 1998
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Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 15:34:09 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: David Zug
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Greetings,

I'm hoping that "David Zug" is on this mailing list.  He built a
68HC11-based EFI system from scratc for his turbo'd 89 Grand Prix, and his
website link (from Yahoo and AltaVista anyway) is dead, dead, dead.

David, if you're on the list, please hollar :)

Thanks,


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 15:40:54 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <jewett@sunset.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 747 vs. 730
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 12:47:40 -0700
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So between the 747 and the 730, I would believe that would make these two
probably the more common units available for the late 80/early 90's era...
While I am on the subject of ECM's I was wondering what the PROM chip is in
these units.. Not to babble but I am working with a fellow from austrailia
that has plans for a DIY'ers eprom burner. I have been going back and forth
with him regarding it's abilities as for burning ECM proms. I am aware of
the 2732 of the older ECM's, what other EPROM's are in wide popular use
speaking GM only. As a new user I have a good prespective to the idiots
guide to EFI, and this web page is great! Within a week I should have
revised plans providing I get info to him regarding what EPROM's it should
support, then I will post his link to the list, incase there are any other
folks that do not have an eprom burner and wish to make they're own.

Derek

----------
> From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: 747 vs. 730
> Date: Monday, April 20, 1998 8:16 AM
> 
> >Bruce.. You mentioned 747, but I looked all over town and was not able
to
> come up with one, what I did find and bought was a 730 ECM, out of an 89
> Beretta... Is this compatible with the 747 at all...???
> >
> >Thanks..
> 
> 
> As far as I know the 747 was used for TBI applications and the 730
> was used for TPI, in oem designs.  Depending on the success of the 747
> project hopefully we'll do the 730.
> Bruce
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 17:04:06 1998
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From: Don Berry <donbe@microsoft.com>
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Introduction - Don Berry
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 14:04:02 -0700
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		Hello, I'm Don Berry and I have been a list member for a
couple of weeks. I am very impressed with the "quality to noise ratio" of
this list. I am a Sr. Network Engineer for Microsoft and responsible for
internal corporate networks outside of the US. My passion is drag racing and
I have a 9 second '67 Camaro, a couple of show cars an a '64 Chevy II as my
daily driver.

		Currently I am in the engineering stages of  my next hot
rod. I am planning to build a twin turbo, intercooled small block Chevrolet
for one of my Camaros, a '68 convertible. A dyi-efi is high on my list of
requirements.

		Has anyone used the Intel 8XC196 series microcontrollers for
diy-efi? The reason I ask is that I have an ICE (in circuit emulator) that
would be very helpful for this type of a project.  I originally came by this
when I was investigating a dyi data acquisition system but didn't have the
resources to complete (both time and skill). 

		Thanks!
		Don Berry



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 17:17:21 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 747 vs. 730
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 17:17:14 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Jewett <jewett@sunset.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, April 20, 1998 4:10 PM
Subject: Re: 747 vs. 730


>So between the 747 and the 730, I would believe that would make these two
probably the more common units available for the late 80/early 90's era...

The 747 was used in gm pickups (v-6-8s) from 85-91.
The 730 was used in numerous cars from about the same error.
The 747 uses a 2732, the 730 a 27256.
>
>Derek
>
>> As far as I know the 747 was used for TBI applications and the 730  was
used for TPI, in oem designs.  Depending on the success of the 747 project
hopefully we'll do the 730.
>> Bruce
Again cheers
  Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 17:21:41 1998
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From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
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Subject: Re: Introduction - Don Berry
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Hi, Don, welcome to the list, good luck with your projects, and are you
looking for a job in the Banking industry?  (I'm serious.)

Thanks,

John

On Mon, 20 Apr 1998, Don Berry wrote:

> 		Hello, I'm Don Berry and I have been a list member for a
> couple of weeks. I am very impressed with the "quality to noise ratio" of
> this list. I am a Sr. Network Engineer for Microsoft and responsible for
> internal corporate networks outside of the US. My passion is drag racing and
> I have a 9 second '67 Camaro, a couple of show cars an a '64 Chevy II as my
> daily driver.
> 
> 		Currently I am in the engineering stages of  my next hot
> rod. I am planning to build a twin turbo, intercooled small block Chevrolet
> for one of my Camaros, a '68 convertible. A dyi-efi is high on my list of
> requirements.
> 
> 		Has anyone used the Intel 8XC196 series microcontrollers for
> diy-efi? The reason I ask is that I have an ICE (in circuit emulator) that
> would be very helpful for this type of a project.  I originally came by this
> when I was investigating a dyi data acquisition system but didn't have the
> resources to complete (both time and skill). 
> 
> 		Thanks!
> 		Don Berry
> 
> 
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 19:10:50 1998
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Subject: 68hc11 and C code
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I have a bag of E28F008SA Flash ram's that are SMT mount items. I would
like to trade someone some of these for a C code FI program for the
68hc11, I have all the needed expertise on the mechanical, & machine end
but I am a beginner at programming if interested e-mail direct to avoid
the clutter in the list. I have the programs from the efi332 file site.

               Jimmy
               staton@icon.net


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 20:05:12 1998
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To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Wayne Blair <wayneb@foxboro.com.au>
Subject: Impreza Manauls
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Hi fellow listers:

Garfield: 

You really summed up what sucks hope all the "listner only 's" where really
listening.

Some one mentioned me( maybe) directly about getting an Impreza Manual.
Sorry I cant help but it would appear the other Aussies have come out and
offered help.

back to the fun



wayne

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 21:16:56 1998
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From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>
To: "'DIY-EFI'" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Intel B57684 EPROM
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 18:18:59 -0700
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I tried this direct reply about a week ago ... I'm thinking that it may
not have made it, so I'm posting it to the list.  My apologies to the
rest of the list participants!

TIA!
Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)

> ----------
> > The EPROM
> > > device has an Intel logo on it and a device type of B57684.  I'm
> without
> > > my nerd novels here at home and was wondering if any of you happen
> to
> > > have a databook that describes this device.  It is a 28 pin, 0.6"
> > > spacing package.  I suspect it is similar to a 27128 or 27256, but
> I'd
> > > rather know than guess when I try to read it in.  
> > 
> > They usually use 27C256 and 27C512. Try 27C512 and look at $8000. If
> there´s 
> > the same data as at $0000 then it´s a 27C256. If you tell me the
> ECU-no. 
> > (0261 ...) and the chip-no. (126735 ...) (each no. has 10 digits) I
> can tell you 
> > the chip type exactly.
> > 
> Vielen danken!
> 
> I have put the box back together again (so that I could get to work!),
> so I can't get the number of the part on the EPROM.  It was silly of
> me not to write it down!  Here are all of the numbers on the exterior
> of the box.  There is an orange Bosch (Motronic) label which has a
> number of 0261 200 250.  There is also a plain white label that has 4
> numbers with bar codes printed on it.  From top to bottom the numbers
> are: 146 4417 , 166.12 , 26 SA 1053 , 1759000166
> 
> I truly appreciate any help you can give me with getting more
> information on this box.  It is installed in a 1992 BMW k1 motorcycle
> (US spec of course).  Do you know if there is any way to get the code
> for the European version of this bike's code?  I have also heard that
> this controller does support closed loop operation simply with the
> addition of an OXS, can you confirm this?
> 
> Regards and thanks,
> Steve Buchholz
> San Jose, CA (USA)
> 
>  
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 21:49:00 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Programming 101
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 21:48:52 -0400
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Well if you have missed any of the prior postings on this I would
recommend you read the archives, and catch up with this subject.
Again, this is for educational purposes, and should only be done
with adult supervision.  Changes can lead to engine damage,
loss of performance, and increased emissions.  Any experiments
with this subject manner should be for off-road use.

  In a great number of gm ecms there is what is called Power
Enrichment, commonly called PE.  There are numerous conditions
that must be meet for it to be enabled.  The trigger (if you will) is
a percentage of TPS.  Based on rpm once this theshold is
exceeded it puts the ecm into PE, and the O2 sensor is ignored,
and the engine answers the helm with a max effort.  Now. there
seems to be several opinions on how the ecm executes the
mixture for this.  One train of though is that the ecm basiclly goes
open loop.  Next is that the ecm applies a correction to the WOT
mixture from the block lean correction.  The third view is that the
ecm applies only a correction of richness from the BL correction.  IMHE,
it's one of the later two.  It also appears to vary from
application to application. If you follow the tune-up procedures from my
earlier postings it is really a mute point.  The percent of TPS to enable PE
appears to be at 047D-0485.
  We covered the WOT spark adder, so now we must look for a
WOT Air/Fuel Ratio.  That would be at 0487-048E..
  Hmm, maybe next we'll talk abit about the math used in some
of the tables settings we've found.
  Again I invite any and all to contribute any information they might
have about tables, enables, switchs, and there addresses.
  No worries mate
Bruce    Again when refering to this text please edit the rely.
              nacelp@bright.net


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 22:06:30 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: MAP vs MAF, again
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 22:06:22 -0400
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In the not to distant past there was a post about how when an
individual changed from MAP to MAF in a engine with a larger
than stock cam how the grams per second changed.  As I recall
the idle grams/second went from like 20 to 6, and the WOT went
from 255 to like 150.  I'm just curious if this was most probably from the
lack of dampening of the MAP sensor.  The MAF has to change
current loading (?), or some better engineering term to register
a change, where in the MAP all it is a diaphram moving.  My point is
that in this case the MAP was actually more accurate, and the
problem is actually how the ecm sees the more violent intake tract
pulses.  In one series of experiments I did I tried mounting the MAP
on the engine, and then with various lines, starting with min lenght
ID, and then large ID, and long line.  What has always seemed to
work best is a min lenght/ID hose from the manifold to the MAP
sensor.
  Any other experiences, comments
Cheers
Bruce    In the spirit of good will when you see a pal at work
              having a bad day, please feel free to offer him/her
              the use of your Cone Shaped Hat...


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 20 23:08:17 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: MAP vs MAF, again
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 20:07:04 -0700
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I found the opposite. On my V6, the WOT went from 130 to 255 and the idle
went from 6 to 20.

TK

Owner of the only stealth cone-shaped hat

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, April 20, 1998 7:49 PM
Subject: MAP vs MAF, again


>In the not to distant past there was a post about how when an
>individual changed from MAP to MAF in a engine with a larger
>than stock cam how the grams per second changed.  As I recall
>the idle grams/second went from like 20 to 6, and the WOT went
>from 255 to like 150.  I'm just curious if this was most probably from the
>lack of dampening of the MAP sensor.  The MAF has to change
>current loading (?), or some better engineering term to register
>a change, where in the MAP all it is a diaphram moving.  My point is
>that in this case the MAP was actually more accurate, and the
>problem is actually how the ecm sees the more violent intake tract
>pulses.  In one series of experiments I did I tried mounting the MAP
>on the engine, and then with various lines, starting with min lenght
>ID, and then large ID, and long line.  What has always seemed to
>work best is a min lenght/ID hose from the manifold to the MAP
>sensor.
>  Any other experiences, comments
>Cheers
>Bruce    In the spirit of good will when you see a pal at work
>              having a bad day, please feel free to offer him/her
>              the use of your Cone Shaped Hat...
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 01:23:18 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 22:44:12 +0000
Subject: Re: MAP vs MAF, again
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Bruce

I need a Map, not an MAP..
I am lost.  MAF is a MASS AIR FLOW sensor.  usually a hot wire or 
plate type?  MAP is a Manifold Air Pressure sensor?  What measures 
Atmospheric pressure(in a boat its a barometer)?  How do I get 
Speed -Density?  One or two sensors?

Bob McKnight
Phx AZ
                                    PS-
These alphabets get me.  At tax time I find myself putting a 1040 in 
my independent rear supension(IRS) and sending a 4:11 to the internal 
revenue system(IRS).  My USB(universal serial bus) won't plug into my 
USB(upper Side Band) ham radio set.  Although I hear if I buy a new 
transceiver I will be able to plug my USB into my USB.  Between the 
Hieroglyphics on my computer screen and  the alphonics of the 
Technical publications, I am losing what little command of the 
english language I had.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 01:57:32 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: MAP vs MAF, again
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 22:56:18 -0700
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You want a system using a MAP (manifold absolute pressure sensor - this is
speed density), not a MAFS (mass air flow sensor).

Remember, some systems that use a MASS sensor, also have a MAP for backup or
to measure the barometric pressure (altitude).

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: bamcknig@postoffice.syspac.com <bamcknig@postoffice.syspac.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, April 20, 1998 10:55 PM
Subject: Re: MAP vs MAF, again


>Bruce
>
>I need a Map, not an MAP..
>I am lost.  MAF is a MASS AIR FLOW sensor.  usually a hot wire or
>plate type?  MAP is a Manifold Air Pressure sensor?  What measures
>Atmospheric pressure(in a boat its a barometer)?  How do I get
>Speed -Density?  One or two sensors?
>
>Bob McKnight
>Phx AZ
>                                    PS-
>These alphabets get me.  At tax time I find myself putting a 1040 in
>my independent rear supension(IRS) and sending a 4:11 to the internal
>revenue system(IRS).  My USB(universal serial bus) won't plug into my
>USB(upper Side Band) ham radio set.  Although I hear if I buy a new
>transceiver I will be able to plug my USB into my USB.  Between the
>Hieroglyphics on my computer screen and  the alphonics of the
>Technical publications, I am losing what little command of the
>english language I had.
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 02:40:57 1998
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Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 23:23:31 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy Ganz <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
In-Reply-To: <35390373.67DC0858@mwt.net>
References: <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au>
 <01BD6940.54702120@pjaramaz>
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Way off Steve, first off now one here is proposing that we are making money
from reverse engineering other products. AND if anyone does make something
it should be the folks that do the work, not someone who takes the design
and time that others have spent. So with comments like this, I guess that I
hope that this attitued didn't exist. I guess that anything I now put up
will be encased in epoxy and all partnumber ground off, and a connector on
the end that has the numbers 1,2,3 on it. The idea of using other product
to reverse engineer something has some questions, but I guess maybe you
missed the point, and that is, if you try to make money with other hard
work (which we are not with the EGO or other projects) then we are OK.

Sandy

At 02:48 PM 4/18/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Don't you think you invoking a double standard. Look at this group
>breaking O2 meter using an existing meter , reverse engineer GM boxes .
>It will happen any way and there is no way to protect if they are in the
>weeds reading mail . It will be built with a twist in the design . If
>you don't want it copied DON' T post it.
>After all, the posts are public domain you talk on the net the world
>knows ,this is great power of the net and if it drops the price of the
>standard unit down to $200 due to competition the goal was met. Remember
>not all members want to build one, they want to use one. Build some pc
>boards and sell them to the members and make a profit after all this is
>the American way. I'll buy one.
>
>
>
>
>Steve
>
>Sandy wrote:
>
>> YES, I think that this should be true of ALL stuff designed here, and
>> if you
>> are going to do something and make $$ with the designs, the (all)
>> people
>> involved must be contacted. Just a respect thing!!
>>
>> Sandy
>>
>> >
>> >As I've said before, there's gonna be a stipulation in the permission
>> to
>> >use the circuit, that you not be making use of the circuit for
>> >profit-making purposes, without express written permission.
>> >
>> >Make as many for you and your pals, AT COST, that you want, but you
>> >start selling them for a profit, and yer name'll be mud, bud.
>> >
>> >Just a reminder.
>> >
>> >Garfield
>> >
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 02:40:58 1998
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Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 23:29:33 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy Ganz <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.19980419203714.0079bc60@mail.qonline.com.au>
References: <35390373.67DC0858@mwt.net>
 <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au>
 <01BD6940.54702120@pjaramaz>
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Matthew, the real question is that are you adding value by doing something,
ie making a PCB, building the kit, collection of parts, etc. That's
different then taking a design, and selling for profit without the consent
of the creator. IE, I design something, you start selling it without
asking, that sucks. I did the work, I should be paid if anyone should. Just
a matter of due dilligence.

Sandy 


>I'm a uni student, with a little electronic background.  I build and sell
>things at VERY SMALL profit....
>
>barely enough to make my time worthwhile.
>
>Why shouldn't I?
>
>I am most definenly not talking about setting up a comercial manufacturing
>business.
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 04:08:31 1998
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Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 01:55:39 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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David Garnier wrote:
> 
> Shannen
> 
> >
> >ASMZ prom fits 87 A body (Celebrity) with 2.8, 4spd auto,
> >federal emiss.
> 
> God, you are good! :-) Yep you got most of it, other than
> it's a eurosport wagon with 3.31 gears.  I was surprised to
> find that there was different versions for different gear
> ratios... I rememeber hearing someplace that transmissions
> are calibrated to engines these days.  When I was at my local
> Chevy dealer, I asked what is suppose to be in there and I
> got the following. ECM's started as 1227730, then 16198262
> and then some others; I then started to get overloaded with
> the details.  I copied down off his tube, 1388ADCK, 3024ADRF,
> 5486AAXN and 4456ADRF for memcals. I will go back there again
> and verify this data. I have been looking for another Celebrity
> with 2.8W engine without the speed density revision but I
> haven't even found a speed density equiped Celebrity yet. The
> bone yards I go to have the ECM already yanked and sorted only
> by ECM number, $35 to $45 seems to be the going price in the
> yards I have visited.  I would like to try MAT version once
> and see how it feels, seat of the pants that is.
> 
> >Was that ECM remanufactured by Delco?
> 
> I assume so since it had the typical GM stickon number and
> barcode.  The one I found for my wifes 90 olds 3.3L did say
> it was remanufactured by Delco, so go figure.
> 
> So, how where you able to tell me what I had?  Have a good
> friend or work for mister goodwrench? ;-)
> 
> thanks
> 
> dave garnier
> --
That's interesting.  Something seems funny about that ecm
not having a removable prom, but I haven't dug around in
enough of them to call myself any kind of expert.  I work
for the General, and looked that prom up in the bulletin
about speed density conversion. 
I've done a few of these conversions, and I think the car
runs better with s/d.  BTW GM proms generally run around the
same price as a junkyard ECM.  Doubt that the MAF prom is
available though.

As far as all of the ecm number changes, there's a bunch. 
The parts guys have a chart they use when ordering reman
units.  Some day I'll copy it, but for now I've got enough
information to worry about.

Shannen

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Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 09:34:55 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Gus Cameron <cameroa@sbu.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Intel B57684 EPROM
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At 18:18 20/04/98 -0700, Steve B wrote:
>I tried this direct reply about a week ago ... I'm thinking that it may
>not have made it, so I'm posting it to the list.  My apologies to the
>rest of the list participants!
>
snip
>> I have put the box back together again (so that I could get to work!),
>> so I can't get the number of the part on the EPROM.  It was silly of
>> me not to write it down!  Here are all of the numbers on the exterior
>> of the box.  There is an orange Bosch (Motronic) label which has a
>> number of 0261 200 250.  There is also a plain white label that has 4
>> numbers with bar codes printed on it.  From top to bottom the numbers
>> are: 146 4417 , 166.12 , 26 SA 1053 , 1759000166
>> 
>> I truly appreciate any help you can give me with getting more
>> information on this box.  It is installed in a 1992 BMW k1 motorcycle
>> (US spec of course).  Do you know if there is any way to get the code
>> for the European version of this bike's code?  I have also heard that
>> this controller does support closed loop operation simply with the
>> addition of an OXS, can you confirm this?
>> 
>> Regards and thanks,
>> Steve Buchholz
>> San Jose, CA (USA)
>> 
>>  

Steve, I'm not quite sure where you are with code numbers etc etc but I can
find out Euro spec Motronic BMW bike code with a bit of faffing about.  In
fact I have a box next to me with the code 0 261 200 758 on it, the Eprom
is a TI with the legend 57 995 DP9249 printed on it and a silver label
stuck over the top with 
1 267 357 525 printed on.  I have absolutely no idea of the
relavence/significance of these codes.  And I'm not even totally sure what
bike this box was from (but probably a euro k100rs).  Oh yes, nothing but
high quality information from me this (wet, grey, got drenched riding into
work, merry old blighty etc) morning!
All the best,
gus




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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Gus Cameron <cameroa@sbu.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
In-Reply-To: <Version.32.19980420232523.00d967b0@mail.wgn.net>
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Just to change the subject a little bit....
Can anyone tell me how lambda/AF ratio relates to the true % oxygen?  Has
anyone ever heard of anyone using these ion pump sensors for non-automotive
applications?  The reason I ask is that in the course of my work (I'm a
biochemist, ex-biochemical engineer) I use mass specs and paramagnetic O2
meters to measure %O2 from athletes lungs.  These gizmos are v. accurate
but you dont wanna know the cost, and the response time / reliability
isnt always what we would like (and we can only afford a couple of them).
Maybe a EGO sensor is what we need?  Thought, truth be told, these athletes
have enough problems with their egos as it is, heh heh.
TIA,
gus




From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 06:07:00 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Introduction - Don Berry
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So lets all start with the 'Windows for Chevy' jokes hehehe

Rob Humphris

>----------
>From: 	Don Berry[SMTP:donbe@microsoft.com]
>Sent: 	20 April 1998 22:04
>To: 	diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: 	Introduction - Don Berry
>
>		Hello, I'm Don Berry and I have been a list member for a
>couple of weeks. I am very impressed with the "quality to noise ratio" of
>this list. I am a Sr. Network Engineer for Microsoft and responsible for
>internal corporate networks outside of the US. My passion is drag racing and
>I have a 9 second '67 Camaro, a couple of show cars an a '64 Chevy II as my
>daily driver.
>
>		Currently I am in the engineering stages of  my next hot
>rod. I am planning to build a twin turbo, intercooled small block Chevrolet
>for one of my Camaros, a '68 convertible. A dyi-efi is high on my list of
>requirements.
>
>		Has anyone used the Intel 8XC196 series microcontrollers for
>diy-efi? The reason I ask is that I have an ICE (in circuit emulator) that
>would be very helpful for this type of a project.  I originally came by this
>when I was investigating a dyi data acquisition system but didn't have the
>resources to complete (both time and skill). 
>
>		Thanks!
>		Don Berry
>
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 10:29:57 1998
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I have talked to a Ford engineer about the adaptive capability of EEC-4
system.  Specifically, I want to use a 1986 5.0 Crown Victoria SFI on a
3.5 liter Buick aluminum V-8.  He told me it ought to work, taking about
20 minutes for the controller to figure out my engine.  Rover inlet
manifold bolts up.  Distributor rotates the wrong way, so I made a new
interupter.  Has anyone tried such a conversion?
Jon Axt, Aloha Oregon


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 10:50:16 1998
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Robert Humphris wrote:
> 
> So lets all start with the 'Windows for Chevy' jokes hehehe
> 
> Rob Humphris

If Microsoft were located in West Virginia...
  they'd call it "winders 95".
  You'd be able to repair your PC with parts from an old Trans Am
  Instead of "Yes, No, Cancel" your choices would be "Aww-right, Nah,
and Git"
  When you started soundplayer, you'd hear "Freebird".

Apologies to MS employees and West Virginia residents...

:-)

--steve


--
Steve Ravet
International Meta Systems
http://www.imes.com
steve@imes.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 11:31:28 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: NA FWD 148 Bin 
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 11:31:23 -0400
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Would anyone have a bin for a 86, 3.8 FWD Buick/Olds using
a 1227148 or know if it is the same code/table locations as a
GN/TType?..  
  Or better yet if ya can just use a GN Editor to change the table
entries for a NA prom?.
Thanks
Bruce    



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 12:40:02 1998
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From: d houlton x0710  <tc75918@hpnfssvr.mdhc.mdc.com>
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Subject: Re: High Temp Coatings in a Turbo (Revisit: slightly off topic)
To: DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu (EFI )
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 09:39:31 -0700 (MST)
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This is a re-cap of the thread a few weeks ago.  I ask this again as I now
have my turbo from a junk yard doner and want to clean it and the manifold
up a bit and coat it in the appropriate manner.  From all the input before,
this is what I gather to be the best advice.  Please let me know if anything
doesn't look right.


For the inside of the manifold and the inside of the turbine scroll housing
and its inlet and outlet (all cast iron):

  Sand blast and coat with:
     TLHB    (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-3.html)
       or
     CBC3    (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-2.html)
       or
     Black Satin (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-1.html)
       or
     Cermakrome  (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-1.html)
       or
     A combination of these (i.e. CBC3 first, buff, then Black Satin)  
       Any advantage to this?


  Is any one of these particularly better than the other?  I know Black
  Satin and Cermakrom are available from Summit and are water-based so
  you can bake them in the kitchen oven (if needed).



For the outside of the manifold and turbine housing:
  
  Nothing?  Coating here would tend to keep the heat in the metal.  The
  idea is to keep the heat in the exhaust gasses by coating the inside, but
  let the heat that does go to the metal escape to the outside air right?

  Maybe something that *isn't* a thermal barrier, but can take the heat and
  looks nicer than rusty cast iron?




For the inside of the scroll housing of the compressor and its inlet and
outlet:

    DFL-1    (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-2.html)
        Then buff with Scotch Brite before assembly.

    Do you sandblast first?
  



For the outside of compressor:
  
  Nothing.




For the turbo shaft and bearings:

  Buff with Scitch Brite then coat with:
    WSX    (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-2.html)




For the turbine and compressor blades and their housings:

  Nothing.  The barrier will likely be thick enough to cause damage
  due to heat expansion and tight tolerances.

  Although, DFL-1 goes on between .0005" and .0015" and can apparently be
  buffed to a .0002" thickness after application so it may work, but I don't
  know that I'd want to chance it.  Is that still too thick?





OR:

Hose the whole thing off with de-greaser, pre-lube with oil, slap it on
and don't worry about it.




All sand blasting is with fine sand at 40 psi with a suction-type blaster.  
No glass bead.  Blasted parts are cleaned with acetone before applying 
coating.



Tools:
  I have the compressor and will get the sand blaster for the job.  The
  parts are relatively small so I'll use an airbrush normally used for
  model airplanes.


Any more comments?


thanks
--Dan

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 13:16:24 1998
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Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 13:16:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dave J. Andruczyk" <dave@scarlet.buffalostate.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: MAP vs MAF, again
In-Reply-To: <199804210520.WAA16731@mailrelay.syspac.com>
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> I need a Map, not an MAP..
> I am lost.  MAF is a MASS AIR FLOW sensor.  usually a hot wire or 
> plate type?  MAP is a Manifold Air Pressure sensor?  What measures 
> Atmospheric pressure(in a boat its a barometer)?  How do I get 
> Speed -Density?  One or two sensors?


MAP = Manifold Absoulte Pressure sensor. 

I see and optimal system utilizing both sensors.   MAP is excellent at
showing relative load and MPG ( by vacuum), and MAF is excellent for
compensating for engine mods, (polished  heads, free flow exhaust, etc..)

dave



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 14:52:42 1998
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Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 14:52:49 -0400
From: Derek <derekt@usit.net>
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I run a 455 cu in Pontiac motor in a 1976 Trans Am.
As I am not aware of any fuel injection made for this engine, I am
considering modifying an existing fuel injection setup from another
engine to suit.
I believe that mass air flow systems are more flexible in terms of
accomodating variations in operating parameters and with this in mind I
wonder if using say a mass air flow GM or Ford setup might work with the
following modifications
1.	larger airflow sensor and throttle body unit.
2.	larger injectors.

Anyone have any thoughts or information  -  derekt@usit.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 15:29:33 1998
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        "Modified Fuel Injection" (Apr 21,  2:52pm)
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection
Cc: Derek <derekt@usit.net>
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Rance Fuel Injection sells dual quad manifolds modified for port fuel
injection, along with other components.  Check them out at:
http://www.rancefi.com/

On Apr 21,  2:52pm, Derek wrote:
> Subject: Modified Fuel Injection
> I run a 455 cu in Pontiac motor in a 1976 Trans Am.
> As I am not aware of any fuel injection made for this engine, I am
> considering modifying an existing fuel injection setup from another
> engine to suit.
> I believe that mass air flow systems are more flexible in terms of
> accomodating variations in operating parameters and with this in mind I
> wonder if using say a mass air flow GM or Ford setup might work with the
> following modifications
> 1.	larger airflow sensor and throttle body unit.
> 2.	larger injectors.
>
> Anyone have any thoughts or information  -  derekt@usit.com
>-- End of excerpt from Derek



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 15:45:08 1998
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Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 15:42:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection
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> I run a 455 cu in Pontiac motor in a 1976 Trans Am.
> As I am not aware of any fuel injection made for this engine, I am
> considering modifying an existing fuel injection setup from another
> engine to suit.
> I believe that mass air flow systems are more flexible in terms of
> accomodating variations in operating parameters and with this in mind I
> wonder if using say a mass air flow GM or Ford setup might work with the
> following modifications
> 1.	larger airflow sensor and throttle body unit.
> 2.	larger injectors.
> 
> Anyone have any thoughts or information  -  derekt@usit.com

on that topic,i'm currious if a 454 Vortec fuel injection system would fit
(rather important) & work (i guess it will work fine after all) on this
motor ??

Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 16:19:57 1998
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From: Jason Greene <verde1@us.ibm.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: MAP vs MAF, again
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Is there a way to convert an EFI system that uses MAFS to a systemthat uses a
MAP and keep the same ECU?

Jason G.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 16:44:56 1998
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Jon wrote:

> I have talked to a Ford engineer about the adaptive capability of EEC-4
> system.  Specifically, I want to use a 1986 5.0 Crown Victoria SFI on a
> 3.5 liter Buick aluminum V-8.  He told me it ought to work, taking about
> 20 minutes for the controller to figure out my engine.  Rover inlet
> manifold bolts up.  Distributor rotates the wrong way, so I made a new
> interupter.  Has anyone tried such a conversion?
> Jon Axt, Aloha Oregon

  Now this I would like to see! Im been told EEC is smart but that smart?
OOPs good thing I reread message I thought it said GM6. V8 - no problem.




That sould stir em up.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 16:44:56 1998
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Jon wrote:

> I have talked to a Ford engineer about the adaptive capability of EEC-4
> system.  Specifically, I want to use a 1986 5.0 Crown Victoria SFI on a
> 3.5 liter Buick aluminum V-8.  He told me it ought to work, taking about
> 20 minutes for the controller to figure out my engine.  Rover inlet
> manifold bolts up.  Distributor rotates the wrong way, so I made a new
> interupter.  Has anyone tried such a conversion?
> Jon Axt, Aloha Oregon

  Now this I would like to see! Im been told EEC is smart but that smart?
OOPs good thing I reread message I thought it said GM6. V8 - no problem.




That sould stir em up.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 17:02:57 1998
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From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jens_J=F8rgen_Larsen?=" <jjl@post7.tele.dk>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Sv: Intel B57684 EPROM
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 22:49:07 +0200
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Hello Steve.

Are you sure about the B... number ? I have some Intel proms which are
labeled
B57604;  yes,  there is a slash through the zero, but it is still a zero.
If the number is B57604 then the prom is a 27256.
The way I find out was to read the Silicon Signature ( a electronic ID code
inside
the device). This can be done with a programmer (not all programmers can do
it), I use a Dataman S4.
The readout from S4 is:         Silicon Signature
                                           Signature: 8904 
                                          
                                           Intel 27256
                                           12.75V Burn pin. 1
                                           100uS No overprog.
                                           Alg. 22, Ref 080E

Good luck.

J.J Larsen
Denmark   

----------
> Fra: Buchholz, Steven <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>
> Til: 'DIY-EFI' <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Emne: Re: Intel B57684 EPROM
> Dato: 21. april 1998 03.18
> 
> I tried this direct reply about a week ago ... I'm thinking that it may
> not have made it, so I'm posting it to the list.  My apologies to the
> rest of the list participants!
> 

> > Regards and thanks,
> > Steve Buchholz
> > San Jose, CA (USA)
> > 
> >  
> > 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 17:34:45 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Impreza Manauls
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 17:45:52 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Tue, 21 Apr 1998 10:05:10 +1000, Wayne Blair <wayneb@foxboro.com.au>
wrote:

>You really summed up what sucks, hope all the "listener only's" where really
>listening.

Hope doth spring eternal. Dealing with the bugs is just part of campin
out, tho. Ya just gotta try not to focus on em. Heh. And if you build a
big enough fire and make enough smoke, they go away anyhoo!

>Some one mentioned me( maybe) directly about getting an Impreza Manual.
>Sorry I cant help but it would appear the other Aussies have come out and
>offered help.

Not a problem, mate. Got yer fellow countrymen and others comin outta
the woodwork to help. I figure in another week, either from the UK or
Oz, I'll have a source nailed down. Profuse thanks to ALL who have
helped so far. Waytago DIY'ers. PeterJ came through with the WRX
taxonomy docs, thanks PJ (gads 280HP from a 2.0L factory engine...whew
them Soob guys don't mess around!). Another reason to call them "boxer"
engines.

>back to the fun

Might as well. Life is short and uncertain; always eat dessert first!

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 17:44:19 1998
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Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 07:44:11 +1000 (GMT+1000)
From: Christian David Hack <hack@uq.net.au>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: David Zug
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This is his new page. I found it using metacrawler.

http://www.delanet.com/~tgp/89gpturbo.html

CYA
Christian


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 19:21:52 1998
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Jon wrote:

> Specifically, I want to use a 1986 5.0 Crown Victoria SFI on a
> 3.5 liter Buick aluminum V-8.  He told me it ought to work, taking about
> 20 minutes for the controller to figure out my engine.  Rover inlet
> manifold bolts up.  Distributor rotates the wrong way, so I made a new
> interupter.  Has anyone tried such a conversion?
> Jon Axt, Aloha Oregon

  Thats why I'm subscribed.  I've purchased a MAF system from a 1990 Mustang
for use on a Rover 3.5 (Federal manifold from a FI Rover 3500) I'm
building.  I selected MAF because I figured it would be more forgiving.  The
distributor seems to be the only tricky part.  Since Ford uses the hall
effect signal to time the sequential fuel injection (one tooth is smaller
than the others) I have to rig something up.  Will figure it out after
assembling the engine this summer.  Good luck and let me know how yours
works out.
Chris Moog, Rome, NY


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 19:21:52 1998
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Jon wrote:

> Specifically, I want to use a 1986 5.0 Crown Victoria SFI on a
> 3.5 liter Buick aluminum V-8.  He told me it ought to work, taking about
> 20 minutes for the controller to figure out my engine.  Rover inlet
> manifold bolts up.  Distributor rotates the wrong way, so I made a new
> interupter.  Has anyone tried such a conversion?
> Jon Axt, Aloha Oregon

  Thats why I'm subscribed.  I've purchased a MAF system from a 1990 Mustang
for use on a Rover 3.5 (Federal manifold from a FI Rover 3500) I'm
building.  I selected MAF because I figured it would be more forgiving.  The
distributor seems to be the only tricky part.  Since Ford uses the hall
effect signal to time the sequential fuel injection (one tooth is smaller
than the others) I have to rig something up.  Will figure it out after
assembling the engine this summer.  Good luck and let me know how yours
works out.
Chris Moog, Rome, NY


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 19:50:28 1998
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: MAP vs MAF, again
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 01:47:01 +0200
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I have seen a "thing" from HKS thats supposed to do that,I have not tested
it myself.Whats best of a GM, MAP  or GM, MAF ? Is the maf fast enough for
a big turbo on a small high rpm engine,with a sudden rush of power?
----------Espen Hilde
> From: Jason Greene <verde1@us.ibm.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: MAP vs MAF, again
> Date: 21. april 1998 22:23
> 
> Is there a way to convert an EFI system that uses MAFS to a systemthat
uses a
> MAP and keep the same ECU?
> 
> Jason G.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 21:17:07 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: MAP vs MAF, again
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 21:17:04 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Espen Hilde <mwichstr@online.no>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, April 21, 1998 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: MAP vs MAF, again


>I have seen a "thing" from HKS thats supposed to do that,I have not tested
it myself.

I thought that was for a Vane type MAF sensor

Whats best of a GM, MAP  or GM, MAF ?

On the buick turbo they used a MAF, and on the syclones they used
MAP.  The archives are full of opinions, and reasons for one being
better than the other.
   The GN were mid 80's and the TTA 89, the syty's were 91+..

Is the maf fast enough for
>a big turbo on a small high rpm engine,with a sudden rush of power?

Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 21:32:07 1998
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Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 21:35:09 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: MAP vs MAF, again
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Jason Greene wrote:
> 
> Is there a way to convert an EFI system that uses MAFS to a systemthat uses a
> MAP and keep the same ECU?
> 
> Jason G.
That'w what GM did when they went speed density. Change the PROM and use
MAP instead of MASS.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 21:34:57 1998
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Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 20:37:43 -0700
From: David Garnier <garnierd@csd.uwm.edu>
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Subject: OTC's ecm system tester
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------5DC84824374
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Hello fellow DIY_EFI'ers

I was looking through my OTC tool catalog looking for a tool when 
I stumbled upon the "ECM System Tester" tool.  This tool is designed 
to be swapped in place of a questionable ECM for the purpose of 
toggling or measuring the various sensors for malfunctions. OTC was
kind enough to list a number GM ECM's and their types. What a great
list I thought, this would be *great* in a spead-sheet for general 
information, perusing the local junk yard or for the beginings of 
a general FAQ on ECM's that has been talked about.  Enclosed is a 
sort by ECM number and it is in Excel 4 format. 

dave garnier

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/////////////////woAAAA=
--------------5DC84824374--


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 22:03:01 1998
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Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 22:11:06 -0400
From: Daniel & Laura Burk <ws6transam@voyager.net>
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        "DIY_EFI-Digest@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu" <DIY_EFI-Digest@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY 5th Wheel Questions
References: <199804210418.XAA13140@mailhost.cyberramp.net>
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I didn't finish it due to a change in jobs, family status, and priorities.

I have the wheel and the IR box completed, and it works on the oscilloscope,
indoors.  The problem seems to be when I hook it up to the car and try to
pull out of the garage.  My speed goes from zero to about the speed of light
in less than a second. Talk about eyeball flattening acceleration!!  I think
the IR receiver is either being saturated by exhaust gas, sunlight, or is
picking up RFI from the engine.

I was trying to run the IR transmitter with a DC signal. The idea was to
saturate the IR receiver such that when the light path was broken, the
sensor would turn off. Well, it didn't work for some reason.  I think that
the next step would be use a pulse-width-modulated signal with a period that
is half the length of time that the light path is left open at the wheel's
fastest rotation. Then, use a notch filter on the receiver's signal, amplify
the result, route the output to a monostable multivibrator, and then pass it
to a counter.  This would eliminate the problem of extraneous noise from
sunlight or other noise sources.

By the way, I've haven't thought about this project for almost a year.  How
did you find out about it?

 BTW, I have a total of $30 in the bicycle tire, used mountain bike fork,
aluminum flag holder from the hardware store, bungee cord, PVC, wood, black
paint, and sensors.  It tracks OK if you place enough preload on the bungee
cord. The idea is to attach the bungee cord to the underside of the bar such
that it places a torque at the hinged bracket that forces the rim onto the
paved surface. I've only tested it to 45 MPH.  Wheel imbalance becomes an
issue at higher speeds. It could cause the rim to hop off the pavement.

Daniel Burk.

Andrew Golden wrote:

> I was wondering if you ever finished your DIY 5th wheel project...If so,
> what setup did you end up using?  What is the cost to reproduce it?  Any
> info, words of wisdom, etc. that you can pass along would be greatly
> apreciated

--
Daniel & Laura      email:     ws6transam@voyager.net
     Burk           Web site:  http://www.isthq.com/~dan
  Haslett,MI        Car stuff: http://www.isthq.com/~dan/fcar.html

Dan's current interests:
'84 Pontiac Trans Am L69/WS6 (retired)
'89 Honda VTR 250 Interceptor
 The ultimate garage (Due in early June)
'98 baby (Family cooperative project: Due in mid-June)


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 22:48:10 1998
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Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 14:44:36 +1200
From: Simon Quested <questeds@whio.lincoln.ac.nz>
Subject: Snake Oil!
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Message-id: <0ERS002X8NUHQ7@kauri.lincoln.ac.nz>
Organization: Lincoln University
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Hi All

If you guys are interested in a good article on oil additives have a look at this

http://www.euro.net/TDRS/MINIWEB/oil_additives.html

Snake Oil!

Is That Additive Really A Negative?

Article by Fred Rau 

Cheers

Simon
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
  Simon Quested (E-mail questeds@lincoln.ac.nz)
  Computer Technician, Silicon Graphics & Windows NT Support
  Centre for Computing and Biometrics
  LINCOLN UNIVERSITY OF NEW ZEALAND
  Phone (64)(03) 3252811 Ext. 8087
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
http://www.lincoln.ac.nz/ccb/techs/simon/default.htm
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
I drive way too fast to worry about cholesterol
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 23:32:56 1998
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Bruce,
Mikey Pitts (tweaker author) once told me that
the Turbo SFI has its own unique addresses.
And that a Naturally aspirated bin wouldn't match at all.
I would love to know if you find otherwise..
Mike V.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 21 23:45:57 1998
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Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 23:45:20 EDT
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You may read that the AMS (from GM units ) put out a voltage that is directly
proportional to the Air Mass.  That is NOT true.  It is a parabolic function.
Friendly advice.  Good luck.

See ya,

Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 00:03:34 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <jewett@sunset.net>
To: "Do-it-Yourself Fuel Injection" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: My thanks to Alain
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 21:10:22 -0700
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Thanks a bunch Alain for the 101 info fwd's... Saved me a heck of alot of
time!

Derek

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 00:21:41 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: NA FWD 148 Bin
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 21:20:26 -0700
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They don't, but the overall layout is the same for the most part.

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: ECMnut <ECMnut@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, April 21, 1998 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: NA FWD 148 Bin


>Bruce,
>Mikey Pitts (tweaker author) once told me that
>the Turbo SFI has its own unique addresses.
>And that a Naturally aspirated bin wouldn't match at all.
>I would love to know if you find otherwise..
>Mike V.
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 01:44:36 1998
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From: Jim Velasquez <jim_velasquez@partech.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V3 #170
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Lurker alert!  Long post alert!

OK, so I'm finally going to get out of lurk mode, and participate in the
list...
First, a quick introduction...

I'm a "senior C/S Support Analyst" which basically means that I have
operational and support responsibility for all Servers, Midrange
Connectivity, LANs, WANs, Desktop and Laptops (and, for supervising the
other support staff) for the Customer Service division of a leading
manufacturer of Point Of Sale terminals [see signature at end]

When I'm not doing the above, I've got a pair of project cars I'm
[slowly] working on:
+  A 1972 Pontiac Firebird Formula 
+  A 1976 BMW 530i

I've been planning to take the firebird to either an port-injected
DIY-type EFI  on a Pontiac 400/455; or, I've been debating doing 'the
deed' and going for a late-model corporate motor and trans, complete
with ECU.

The beamer is being disassembled, updated to a newer drivetrain (have 80
533i, debating other options) and rebuilt and de-rusted.  

Both vehicles will receive updated electronics throughout, not just
updated engine management electronics.

Must be from spending too much time looking at the beamer , because I've
also been having visions (delusions?) lately of fabricating an
independent rear suspension for the 'bird.  Also had visions of
fabricating a subframe and internal cage and lopping off the top.
(Anyone ever see the scene in "wayne's world" when they're entering the
bar; there is a topless 2nd generation firebird in the background that I
**REALLY** like the looks of?).  OK, so maybe that'd be a project for a
2nd F-car when I get bored with the 1st one...

Both projects are mainly stress-relievers, so I'm taking my sweet time
about both.  I'm more into the electronics and computer side of things,
though I'm not leery of sweating and turning wrenches.  I call in
friends for using 'blue wrenches' or anytime a large electric arc or
paint gun is needed.  I've got a large collection of cone shaped hats,
which are reversible and double as wizards' caps for the day job...
<grin> No sense letting my users at work think I'm merely mortal!

The message that got me off my butt and reply to was [quoted below]:

<derekt@usit.net> wrote:

>Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 14:52:49 -0400
>Subject: Modified Fuel Injection

>I run a 455 cu in Pontiac motor in a 1976 Trans Am.
>As I am not aware of any fuel injection made for this engine, I am
>considering modifying an existing fuel injection setup from another
>engine to suit.

I have not actually purchased from them, but the following site looks
promising:
http://www.rancefi.com/

Before I found the site mentioned above, I had been thinking of going
for a manifold setup which in my minds' eye would look very much like
the one they sell, and then fabricating the parts needed to use a late
model big block GM ECU with it.

For me, I'd get more enjoyment out of learning by doing this than I
would from bolting on an off-the-shelf conversion.  (not to mention that
for $3500+, I think I can build up a motor **AND** do the DIY_EFI!)

As I mentioned above, I've been seriously tempted to just swap in a
late-model drivetrain; still debating this.  I saw a stunning '70 1/2
Trans-AM with a really clean late-model 454 and corvette 6-speed at a
car show here in Colorado last year, which really got me thinking more
about doing the late-model drivetrain swap.  In my case, the 'bird has
an auto trans, so if I went with a late model motor I'd probably opt for
a beefed-up 700R4 or whatever the new 'electronic' replacement for the
700R4 trans is called.

I would ***LOVE*** to hear from anyone else that had done DIY EFI on a
big-block poncho motor.  Also interested in finding knowledgeable
'interchange specialists' who might be helpful in junkyard parts
scrounging.  (Did you know, for example, that there is a GM 4-speed
automatic trans that has an old-style Buick-Olds-Pontiac bellhousing
bolt pattern?  Saw one in Greely, CO!)

>I believe that mass air flow systems are more flexible in terms of
>accomodating variations in operating parameters and with this in mind I
>wonder if using say a mass air flow GM or Ford setup might work with
the
>following modifications
>1.	larger airflow sensor and throttle body unit.
>2.	larger injectors.

I keep thinking about trying to adapt a TPI from a 454, but every time I
think about it I realize that it would be far easier to swap in motor
and trans mounts from a 2nd generation big-block Camaro and just put in
the 454 and Chevy trans!

On a completely different subject:

Anyone out there familiar with BMW 6 cylinder motors, and
interchangeability of their EFI systems? I've got an '80 3.3L motor
complete with the harness and ECU, which on first inspection seems to be
no problem to fit to my '76.

Also, a question for the group regarding passing an emissions test...

I had to redo my emissions test for my daily driver pickup a few weeks
ago, and when I went to the local EnviroTest (Colorado's politically
appointed Emissions tester for 82-up vehicles) office, there happened to
be a state waiver inspector there that day.  I asked him about what
would happen when I tried to pass either of my project cars.  [the
pickup sailed through and passed, BTW] There were two possibilities:

+  I may show up, and when the incompetent jokers who work at the test
station look at the car, they don't realize the motor is swapped, and
just check off what emissions components are there.  In this scenario,
they'd run it through the test and I'd be virtually guaranteed to pass,
assuming I'd properly tuned the EFI.  (In Colorado, there is an option
to visit mom-and-pops type testing stations for pre-82 vehicles, but
they are supposed to be better trained and better able to catch things
like the swapped motor)

+  By law, in Colorado when a newer motor is installed into a vehicle it
must then pass the emissions requirements for the model year of **that**
motor.  It must also pass a technical inspection from one of the state's
technical inspectors.  These guys are **supposed** to verify that all of
the required emissions hardware is present (for example, a late model
motor would require catalytic converters, O2 sensors, air pumps, etc. if
they were on the donor vehicle.)

I confronted the inspector about a bad experience I had with the BMW:
It had failed at a mom-and-pops test facility as well as at the
EnviroTest facility because it has no smog pump.  (It never had one
previously, and the previous owner had passed the vehicle for the past
15 years up in Vail, Colorado).  I failed because the smog pump is not
there even though **EVERY** measured parameter was well below the state
limits!  I suggested to the inspector that since I would be adding an
auxiliary or high-output alternator to the BMW that I could fabricate a
housing that looked like a smog pump with suitable looking air tubes and
would pass with no problem (particularly with a later model motor). He
said "you may well get away with it, so I'd try that first.  If not,
then pull off the fake pump and see me.  Have your shit together."

Anyone have any experience with dealing with this type of problem?  Any
suggestions?

A final note:I use MS Outlook98  for my mail reader, someone please
flame me if I've got it set wrong and you get rich text format, mime or
other MS crap formatting...

Thanks to everyone with putting up with a lengthy first post!

=================================================================
Jim Velasquez                  | email: jim_velasquez@partech.com
Senior C/S Support Analyst -   | phone:    (303)444-0120 ext.5683
ParTech Inc.       NYSE: (PTC) | cellular: (303)641-4546
5757 Central Ave.              | URL:     http://www.partech.com/
Boulder CO 80301               | 24x7 Pager:303 444 0120 ext.5684
=================================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 01:48:09 1998
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From: Jim Velasquez <jim_velasquez@partech.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V3 #170
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 23:50:42 -0600
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Lurker alert!  Long post alert!

OK, so I'm finally going to get out of lurk mode, and participate in the
list...
First, a quick introduction...

I'm a "senior C/S Support Analyst" which basically means that I have
operational and support responsibility for all Servers, Midrange
Connectivity, LANs, WANs, Desktop and Laptops (and, for supervising the
other support staff) for the Customer Service division of a leading
manufacturer of Point Of Sale terminals [see signature at end]

When I'm not doing the above, I've got a pair of project cars I'm
[slowly] working on:
+  A 1972 Pontiac Firebird Formula 
+  A 1976 BMW 530i

I've been planning to take the firebird to either an port-injected
DIY-type EFI  on a Pontiac 400/455; or, I've been debating doing 'the
deed' and going for a late-model corporate motor and trans, complete
with ECU.

The beamer is being disassembled, updated to a newer drivetrain (have 80
533i, debating other options) and rebuilt and de-rusted.  

Both vehicles will receive updated electronics throughout, not just
updated engine management electronics.

Must be from spending too much time looking at the beamer , because I've
also been having visions (delusions?) lately of fabricating an
independent rear suspension for the 'bird.  Also had visions of
fabricating a subframe and internal cage and lopping off the top.
(Anyone ever see the scene in "wayne's world" when they're entering the
bar; there is a topless 2nd generation firebird in the background that I
**REALLY** like the looks of).  OK, so maybe that'd be a project for a
2nd car when I get bored with the 1st one...

Both projects are mainly stress-relievers, so I'm taking my sweet time
about both.  I'm more into the electronics and computer side of things,
though I'm not leery of sweating and turning wrenches.  I call in
friends for using 'blue wrenches' or anytime a large electric arc or
paint gun is needed.  I've got a large collection of cone shaped hats,
which are reversible and double as wizards' caps for the day job...
<grin> No sense letting my users at work think I'm merely mortal!

The message that got me off my butt and reply to was [quoted below]:

<derekt@usit.net> wrote:

>Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 14:52:49 -0400
>Subject: Modified Fuel Injection

>I run a 455 cu in Pontiac motor in a 1976 Trans Am.
>As I am not aware of any fuel injection made for this engine, I am
>considering modifying an existing fuel injection setup from another
>engine to suit.

I have not actually purchased from them, but the following site looks
promising:
http://www.rancefi.com/

Before I found the site mentioned above, I had been thinking of going
for a manifold setup which in my minds' eye would look very much like
the one they sell, and then fabricating the parts needed to use a late
model big block GM ECU with it.

For me, I'd get more enjoyment out of learning by doing this than I
would from bolting on an off-the-shelf conversion.  (not to mention that
for $3500+, I think I can build up a motor **AND** do the DIY_EFI!)

As I mentioned above, I've been seriously tempted to just swap in a
late-model drivetrain; still debating this.  I saw a stunning '70 1/2
Trans-AM with a really clean late-model 454 and corvette 6-speed at a
car show here in Colorado last year, which really got me thinking more
about doing the late-model drivetrain swap.  In my case, the 'bird has
an auto trans, so I'd probably opt for a beefed-up 700R4 or whatever the
new 'electronic' replacement for the 700R4 trans is called.

I would ***LOVE*** to hear from anyone else that had done DIY EFI on a
big-block poncho motor.  Also interested in finding knowledgeable
'interchange specialists' who might be helpful in junkyard parts
scrounging.  (Did you know, for example, that there is a GM 4-speed
automatic trans that has an old-style Buick-Olds-Pontiac bellhousing
bolt pattern?  Saw one in Greely, CO!)

>I believe that mass air flow systems are more flexible in terms of
>accomodating variations in operating parameters and with this in mind I
>wonder if using say a mass air flow GM or Ford setup might work with
the
>following modifications
>1.	larger airflow sensor and throttle body unit.
>2.	larger injectors.

I keep thinking about trying to adapt a TPI from a 454, but every time I
think about it I realize that it would be far easier to swap in motor
and trans mounts from a 2nd generation big-block Camaro and just put in
the 454 and Chevy trans!

On a completely different subject:

Anyone out there familiar with BMW 6 cylinder motors, and
interchangeability of their EFI systems? I've got an '80 3.3L motor
complete with the harness and ECU, which on first inspection seems to be
no problem to fit to my '76.

Also, a question for the group regarding passing an emissions test...

I had to redo my emissions test for my daily driver pickup a few weeks
ago, and when I went to the local EnviroTest (Colorado's politically
appointed Emissions tester for 82-up vehicles) office, there happened to
be a state waiver inspector there that day.  I asked him about what
would happen when I tried to pass either of my project cars.  [the
pickup sailed through and passed, BTW] There were two possibilities:

+  I may show up, and when the incompetent jokers who work at the test
station look at the car, they don't realize the motor is swapped, and
just check off what emissions components are there.  In this scenario,
they'd run it through the test and I'd be virtually guaranteed to pass,
assuming I'd properly tuned the EFI.  (In Colorado, there is an option
to visit mom-and-pops type testing stations for pre-82 vehicles, but
they are supposed to be better trained and better able to catch things
like the swapped motor)

+  By law, in Colorado when a newer motor is installed into a vehicle it
must then pass the emissions requirements for the model year of **that**
motor.  It must also pass a technical inspection from one of the state's
technical inspectors.  These guys are **supposed** to verify that all of
the required emissions hardware is present (for example, a late model
motor would require catalytic converters, O2 sensors, air pumps, etc. if
they were on the donor vehicle.)

I confronted the inspector about a bad experience I had with the BMW:
It had failed at a mom-and-pops test facility as well as at the
EnviroTest facility because it has no smog pump.  (It never had one
previously, and the previous owner had passed the vehicle for the past
15 years up in Vail, Colorado).  I failed because the smog pump is not
there even though **EVERY** measured parameter was well below the state
limits!  I suggested to the inspector that since I would be adding an
auxiliary or high-output alternator to the BMW that I could fabricate a
housing that looked like a smog pump with suitable looking air tubes and
would pass with no problem (particularly with a later model motor). He
said "you may well get away with it, so I'd try that first.  If not,
then pull off the fake pump and see me.  Have your shit together."

Anyone have any experience with dealing with this type of problem?  Any
suggestions?

A final note:I use MS Outlook98  for my mail reader, someone please
flame me if I've got it set wrong and you get rich text format, mime or
other MS crap formatting...

Thanks to everyone with putting up with a lengthy first post!

=================================================================
Jim Velasquez                  | email: jim_velasquez@partech.com
Senior C/S Support Analyst -   | phone:    (303)444-0120 ext.5683
ParTech Inc.       NYSE: (PTC) | cellular: (303)641-4546
5757 Central Ave.              | URL:     http://www.partech.com/
Boulder CO 80301               | 24x7 Pager:303 444 0120 ext.5684
=================================================================

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From: Jim Velasquez <jim_velasquez@partech.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: sorry for 2 posts!
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 23:53:53 -0600
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OK, so somehow I managed to send two posts... sorry!

=================================================================
Jim Velasquez                  | email: jim_velasquez@partech.com
Senior C/S Support Analyst -   | phone:    (303)444-0120 ext.5683
ParTech Inc.       NYSE: (PTC) | cellular: (303)641-4546
5757 Central Ave.              | URL:     http://www.partech.com/
Boulder CO 80301               | 24x7 Pager:303 444 0120 ext.5684
=================================================================



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 02:50:19 1998
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From: James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca>
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Hmm GM and ford too?  I knew fords were like that but I thought that the 
GM units put out a variable frequency vs. mass air flow.  Am I getting 
confused with the ford MAP sensor ?
any help mucho appreciado
later
jw


On Tue, 21 Apr 1998, A70Duster wrote:

> You may read that the AMS (from GM units ) put out a voltage that is directly
> proportional to the Air Mass.  That is NOT true.  It is a parabolic function.
> Friendly advice.  Good luck.
> 
> See ya,
> 
> Mike
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 03:12:56 1998
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Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 03:10:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: Derek Jewett <jewett@sunset.net>
cc: Do-it-Yourself Fuel Injection <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: My thanks to Alain
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> Thanks a bunch Alain for the 101 info fwd's... Saved me a heck of alot of
> time!
> 
> Derek

you're welcome !! happy to help !!

Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 03:48:45 1998
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From: "Bob McElroy" <rmcelroy@cfu-cybernet.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Modified Fuel Injection
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 02:48:32 -0500
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The Pontiac big-block shares no components with the Chevy big-blocks, so the
manifold from the 454 won't work on the Pontiac block.  You would be able to
adapt a TBI system from the Chevy big-block, and I would expect that the
stock programming would at least get the Pontiac engine up and running.
Then you would most likely want to re-program the stock ECM to get the
Pontiac engine to perform the way it was intended.

Bob McElroy
rmcelroy@cfu-cybernet.net
http://members.xoom.com/rmcelroy

-----Original Message-----
> I run a 455 cu in Pontiac motor in a 1976 Trans Am.
> Anyone have any thoughts or information  -  derekt@usit.com

on that topic,i'm currious if a 454 Vortec fuel injection system would fit
(rather important) & work (i guess it will work fine after all) on this
motor ??

Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 04:25:08 1998
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Ford EECIV map will put out a variable frequency. Have tables if you
need them

Steve

James Weiler wrote:

> Hmm GM and ford too?  I knew fords were like that but I thought that
> the
> GM units put out a variable frequency vs. mass air flow.  Am I getting
>
> confused with the ford MAP sensor ?
> any help mucho appreciado
> later
> jw
>
> On Tue, 21 Apr 1998, A70Duster wrote:
>
> > You may read that the AMS (from GM units ) put out a voltage that is
> directly
> > proportional to the Air Mass.  That is NOT true.  It is a parabolic
> function.
> > Friendly advice.  Good luck.
> >
> > See ya,
> >
> > Mike
> >




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 04:30:04 1998
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GM output map variable voltage , ford variable frequency. Didn't answer
in last post.

James Weiler wrote:

> Hmm GM and ford too?  I knew fords were like that but I thought that
> the
> GM units put out a variable frequency vs. mass air flow.  Am I getting
>
> confused with the ford MAP sensor ?
> any help mucho appreciado
> later
> jw
>
> On Tue, 21 Apr 1998, A70Duster wrote:
>
> > You may read that the AMS (from GM units ) put out a voltage that is
> directly
> > proportional to the Air Mass.  That is NOT true.  It is a parabolic
> function.
> > Friendly advice.  Good luck.
> >
> > See ya,
> >
> > Mike
> >




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 04:33:19 1998
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Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 10:52:29 +0100
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bamcknig@postoffice.syspac.com wrote:

<Psyhco Snip>
                                 PS-
> These alphabets get me.  At tax time I find myself putting a 1040 in
> my independent rear supension(IRS) and sending a 4:11 to the internal
> revenue system(IRS).  My USB(universal serial bus) won't plug into my
> USB(upper Side Band) ham radio set.  Although I hear if I buy a new
> transceiver I will be able to plug my USB into my USB.  Between the
> Hieroglyphics on my computer screen and  the alphonics of the
> Technical publications, I am losing what little command of the
> english language I had.

Bob, Just hold it together mate - I'll get Bruce to send you a CSH for
your BBH that needs SPH.
Hehehehe
Tony

-- 
Sent By Tony Cooper.
email: tony.cooper@virgin.net
Allow at least 10 working minutes for reply. ;)



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 04:35:48 1998
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: High Temp Coatings in a Turbo (Revisit: slightly off topic)
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>For the inside of the manifold and the inside of the turbine scroll housing
>and its inlet and outlet (all cast iron):
>
>  Sand blast and coat with:
>     TLHB    (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-3.html)
>       or
>     CBC3    (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-2.html)
>       or
>     Black Satin (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-1.html)
>       or
>     Cermakrome  (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-1.html)
>       or
>     A combination of these (i.e. CBC3 first, buff, then Black Satin)  
>       Any advantage to this?

Do CBC3 first then Black Satin, the advantage is of the cost of the TLHB
as you cannot get it in the small quantities that you can of CBC3.
Black Satin over Cermakrome as it doesn't need to be baked.
>
>
>For the outside of the manifold and turbine housing:

Coat the manifold in CBC3 then Black satin, inside and out, this keeps
the exhaust heat in, which keeps under bonnet temps down, and the heat
moving through to the turbine, where it is used to spin the system up.
This will go some way to reduce lag.

Coat the turbine housing, the metal will have less heat in it as the
internal coating will be blocking a good percentage of any extra heat.
You want to keep under bonnet temps down as much as possible.
>  
>
>For the inside of the scroll housing of the compressor and its inlet and
>outlet:
>
>    DFL-1    (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-2.html)
>        Then buff with Scotch Brite before assembly.
>
>    Do you sandblast first?
Oh yes.  I found that spraying this stuff was a nightmare though, so in
the end I used a swadge of foam rubber and wiped the stuff on.  Do only
one coat ( i did two and the second lot came off when I buffed it )
>  
Use 0000 grade wire wool or plastic equivalent ( 3M make them )  Scotch
Brite is used to key surfaces too soft to be blasted.
>
>For the outside of compressor:

Go for CBC2, the ally equivalent to CBC3 will cut down on heat
contamination, and when buffed gives a really wild polished sheen to
ally, looks rather like a chromed alluminium!
>  
> 
>For the turbo shaft and bearings:
>
>  Buff with Scitch Brite then coat with:
>    WSX    (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-2.html)
Work that stuff on, oh yes...  I used cotton wool in small balls to buff
it into my valves and guides.
>
>
>
>
>For the turbine and compressor blades and their housings:
>
>  Nothing.  The barrier will likely be thick enough to cause damage
>  due to heat expansion and tight tolerances.
And it will screw up the balance of the turbine
>
>
>
>OR:
>
>Hose the whole thing off with de-greaser, pre-lube with oil, slap it on
>and don't worry about it.
Yea but thats no fun is it?
>
Any more comments?

>Nope, you have all bases covered

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 08:36:09 1998
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Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection
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I'm interested, but I don't understand what you mean by "Variable Frequency". I
thought the EEC IV put out voltage not frequency. What does a varying voltage
caused by changing air flow have to do with frequency?  When you say you have t he
tables, do you mean the map of airflow vs output voltage for a specific MAF?




kb4mxo@mwt.net on 04/22/98 04:16:49 AM

Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc:    (bcc: Joe Dzura/SED/CSC)
Subject:  Re: Modified Fuel Injection




Ford EECIV map will put out a variable frequency. Have tables if you
need them
Steve
James Weiler wrote:
> Hmm GM and ford too?  I knew fords were like that but I thought that
> the
> GM units put out a variable frequency vs. mass air flow.  Am I getting
>
> confused with the ford MAP sensor ?
> any help mucho appreciado
> later
> jw
>
> On Tue, 21 Apr 1998, A70Duster wrote:
>
> > You may read that the AMS (from GM units ) put out a voltage that is
> directly
> > proportional to the Air Mass.  That is NOT true.  It is a parabolic
> function.
> > Friendly advice.  Good luck.
> >
> > See ya,
> >
> > Mike
> >









From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 09:05:18 1998
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Regarding the Holley TBI replacement for 2.8L engines, Holley states
that it will only work for 85-89.  When questioned, they stated that the
IAC is different.  Can't you just change IAC's?  I know that there are
different diameters, some with and some without a collar, and different
methods of attachment (screw in and bolt on).  Is there one that will
work?  The vehicle in question is a '91 Isuzu Trooper.  I had to order a
fuel pressure regulator once and the one for a 91 S-10 was the right
one.  Anyone have experience with this?

                        Doug Wolfe


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 09:53:04 1998
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Alain,
	If you have a file with all of the Prog 101 postings, I
would love to have a copy. I joined the list a few weeks
ago, and have been looking through the archives. I am
putting a 95 Camaro EFI system in my 48 Ford street Rod. I
want to be able to reprogram a few of the Tables in this
ECM, so I am using Prog 101 to learn some of the basics. I
will also have to figure out the interface to program
EEproms, but I assume the general Idea of tables, and there
functions will carry forward. Locating them may be fun!

		Thanks in advance -- Ken

Alain Toussaint wrote:
> 
> > Hello all,
> >
> > Well after several attempts I am now on the list, wheew.. I was hoping
> > someone might bring me up to speed on this prog 101 project...?
> 
> do you need the posting made to the 101 project,i saved them all and i can
> send it to you ???
> 
> Alain Toussaint


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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Holley 502-3 and IAC
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 10:01:12 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: D. Douglas Wolfe <wolfed@milo.cfw.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, April 22, 1998 9:45 AM
Subject: Holley 502-3 and IAC


>Regarding the Holley TBI replacement for 2.8L engines, Holley states that
it will only work for 85-89.  When questioned, they stated that the IAC is
different.  Can't you just change IAC's?
>                        Doug Wolfe
My suggestion is go to a parts house that has Standard Motor
Products.  (HQ, Long Island, NY)
  They have a catalog called Engine Management Illustrated Parts
Guide, on page 187 in Cat No ENGB-94 they have pictures of the
various IAC, and use that to match up what you have/need.
  Mounting and the pintles cone are important, Changing pintle cone
shapes is not for the light of heart (see earlier postings about tune-up
for details)..
HTH
Bruce


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Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 10:28:46 +0000
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: OTC's ecm system tester
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David Garnier wrote:
> 
> Hello fellow DIY_EFI'ers
> 
> I was looking through my OTC tool catalog looking for a tool when
> I stumbled upon the "ECM System Tester" tool.  This tool is designed
> to be swapped in place of a questionable ECM for the purpose of
> toggling or measuring the various sensors for malfunctions. OTC was
> kind enough to list a number GM ECM's and their types. What a great
> list I thought, this would be *great* in a spead-sheet for general
> information, perusing the local junk yard or for the beginings of
> a general FAQ on ECM's that has been talked about.  Enclosed is a
> sort by ECM number and it is in Excel 4 format.
> 
> dave garnier
> 

Here's the list for you unix propeller heads that don't have excel... 
:-)

NUMBER	TYPE	GENERAL INFORMATION

1224690	CLCC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full and
Minimum systems (CLCC)
1224760	DFI	81 to 82 & later ECM's found on DFI systems: CADILLAC ONLY
1224770	CLCC w/   ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted
Full and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1224810	CLCC w/o ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1225120	DFI	81 to 82 & later ECM's found on DFI systems: CADILLAC ONLY
1225330	CLCC w/   ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted
Full and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1225410	CLCC	82 to 83 and later ECM's found on carbureted minimum
functioning systems (CLCC)
1225450	CLCC  MF	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full and
Minimum systems (CLCC)
1225500	CLCC w/  ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1225550	TBI	82 to 85 and later ECM's found on TBI systems
1225570	TBI	82 to 85 and later ECM's found on TBI systems
1225610	TBI	82 to 85 and later ECM's found on TBI systems
1225650	DFI	81 to 82 & later ECM's found on DFI systems: CADILLAC ONLY
1225950	CLCC w/o ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1226020	CLCC	82 to 83 and later ECM's found on carbureted minimum
functioning systems (CLCC)
1226021	CLCC  MF	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full and
Minimum systems (CLCC)
1226024	CLCC  w/ ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1226025	CLCC w/o ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1226026	TBI	82 to 85 and later ECM's found on TBI systems
1226028	DFI	83 to 86 & later ECM's found on DFI systems: CADILLAC ONLY
1226100	TBI	82 to 85 and later ECM's found on TBI systems
1226153	CLCC  w/ ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1226156	TBI	82 to 85 and later ECM's found on TBI systems
1226430	TBI	82 to 85 and later ECM's found on TBI systems
1226441	PFI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1226454	CLCC  w/ ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1226455	CLCC w/o ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1226457	CLCC w/o ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1226458	TBI	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1226459	SFI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1226460	PFI-M Turbo	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following
systems
1226462	DFI	83 to 86 & later ECM's found on DFI systems: CADILLAC ONLY
1226519	CLCC  w/ ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1226647	EFI-4	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1226864	TBI	82 to 85 and later ECM's found on TBI systems
1226865	CLCC w/o ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1226866	CLCC w/o ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1226867	TBI	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1226868	TBI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1226869	PFI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1226870	PFI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1226930	DFI	83 to 86 & later ECM's found on DFI systems: CADILLAC ONLY
1226948	PFI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227056	DFI	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227057	SFI-3	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227065	PFI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227076	CLCC w/o ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1227137	TBI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227148	SFI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227151	PFI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227153	MFI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227165	EFI-4	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227169	CLCC w/o ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1227170	PFI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227301	CLCC w/o ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1227302	PFI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227303	EFI-4	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227429	TBI	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227727	?	88 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4 systems: UNDERHOOD
1227730	?	87 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4 systems
1227746	TBI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227747	TBI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227748	TBI-4	87 to 88 and later ECM's found on TBI-4 mid-functioning
systems
1227749	?	87 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4 systems
1227752	EFI-4	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227783	SFI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227784	MFI	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1227808	EFI-4	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1228022	CLCC w/o ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1228062	TBI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1228063	TBI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1228079	CLCC w/o ISC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full
and Minimum systems (CLCC)
1228253	SFI-4	88 and later ECM's found on SFI-4 systems
1228321	TBI-4	87 to 88 and later ECM's found on TBI-4 mid-functioning
systems
1228330	CLCC	80.5 to 88 and later ECM's found on Carbureted Full and
Minimum systems (CLCC)
1228547	EFI-4	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1228706	?	87 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4 systems
1228707	?	87 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4 systems
1228708	?	88 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4 systems: UNDERHOOD
1228746	TBI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1228747	TBI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1228838	TBI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
1228934	TBI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
16132240	SFI-4	90 to 93 and later ECM's found on SFI-4 systems: CADILLAC
ONLY
16132241	EFI-4	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
16132792	EFI-4  UNDERHOOD	88 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4
systems UNDERHOOD
16136965	TBI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
16138886	EFI-4	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
16141470	SFI-4	90 to 91 and later ECM's found on SFI-4 systems
16142013	EFI-4	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
16144288	TBI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
16146299	TBI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
16147525	TBI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
16149396	?	88 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4 systems: UNDERHOOD
16149405	TBI-M	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
16153597	EFI-4	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
16156450	?	87 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4 systems
16156647	EFI-4	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
16161237	EFI-4	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
16177107	EFI-4  UNDERHOOD	88 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4
systems UNDERHOOD
16196344	EFI-4	87 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4 systems
16196404	EFI-4	87 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4 systems
16197128	EFI-4	88 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4 systems:
UNDERHOOD
16198259	EFI-4	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
16198260	EFI-4	88 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4 systems:
UNDERHOOD
16198262	EFI-4	87 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4 systems
16198263	EFI-4	87 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4 systems
16198264	SFI-4	88 and later ECM's found on SFI-4 systems
16198266	EFI-4	87 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4 systems
16198267	EFI-4	87 to 92 and later ECM's found on EFI-4 systems
16198445	EFI-4	84 to 93 and later ECM's found on the following systems
21020806	TBI-5	91 to 93 and later ECM's found on TBI-5 systems: SATURN
ONLY
21020807	TBI-5	91 to 93 and later ECM's found on TBI-5 systems: SATURN
ONLY
21020808	MFI-5	91 to 93 and later ECM's found on MFI-5 systems: SATURN
ONLY
21020809	MFI-5	91 to 93 and later ECM's found on MFI-5 systems: SATURN
ONLY
21021220	MFI-5	91 to 93 and later ECM's found on MFI-5 systems: SATURN
ONLY
21021221	TBI-5	91 to 93 and later ECM's found on TBI-5 systems: SATURN
ONLY
21021467	TBI-5	91 to 93 and later ECM's found on TBI-5 systems: SATURN
ONLY
21021468	MFI-5	91 to 93 and later ECM's found on MFI-5 systems: SATURN
ONLY
21021469	TBI-5	91 to 93 and later ECM's found on TBI-5 systems: SATURN
ONLY
21021470	MFI-5	91 to 93 and later ECM's found on MFI-5 systems: SATURN
ONLY
21022078	TBI-5	91 to 93 and later ECM's found on TBI-5 systems: SATURN
ONLY
21022079	MFI-5	91 to 93 and later ECM's found on MFI-5 systems: SATURN
ONLY
21022155	MFI-5	91 to 93 and later ECM's found on MFI-5 systems: SATURN
ONLY




--
Steve Ravet
International Meta Systems
http://www.imes.com
steve@imes.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 12:29:38 1998
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Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 11:59:52 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: NA FWD 148 Bin 
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>Would anyone have a bin for a 86, 3.8 FWD Buick/Olds using
>a 1227148 or know if it is the same code/table locations as a
>GN/TType?..  

Howdy.

I have that exact engine, ECM and chip.  Unfortunately my reader is dead.
Come up with an alternate solution (i.e. I mail the chip to you and you
send it back at some point) and you can leach the bin if you want


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: EEC4
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>  Now this I would like to see! Im been told EEC is smart but that smart?
>OOPs good thing I reread message I thought it said GM6. V8 - no problem.

I added 6-7 psi boost to my 3.8L EEC-IV Lincoln with no issues.  I hit 8lbs
of boost, it goes nuts.  So its adaptable, but within reason.

To graft the 5.0L over to the 3.5L, you are going to have to re-size your
injectors, but I would think that would be it, since the 02 sensor is the
most important sensor to the EEC-IV, and the system should remain in closed
loop.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: RE: Modified Fuel Injection
In-Reply-To: <000001bd6dc3$0c245580$5f421dce@cfu.cfu-cybernet.net>
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>The Pontiac big-block shares no components with the Chevy big-blocks, so the
>manifold from the 454 won't work on the Pontiac block.  You would be able to

Yes, that is true.  But you can move the injectors, maf, and other
components over by doing some minor fabricating.  On the carb'd manifold,
you bore 8 holes to allow the welding of injector bosses, then shove the
injectors in.  There's a good book on this subject from Motorbooks
International, I can get the exact title and ISBN number if you are
interested.... I bought it myself and found it more than useful :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 13:13:22 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: NA FWD 148 Bin 
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 13:13:20 -0400
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>>Would anyone have a bin for a 86, 3.8 FWD Buick/Olds using
>>a 1227148 or know if it is the same code/table locations as a
>>GN/TType?..
>Howdy.
>I have that exact engine, ECM and chip.  Unfortunately my reader is dead.
Come up with an alternate solution (i.e. I mail the chip to you and you send
it back at some point) and you can leach the bin if you want >Frederic
Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
Hope your feeling better..
The above idea will work, fine

Bruce Plecan
18 E 1st St
Arcanum, OH  45304

BTW, ya know what a file extension of .S16 means?.   I got some
bins but with that file extension, and just changing it to .bin doesn't
seem to work.
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 13:37:26 1998
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Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 13:37:20 -0400
In-Reply-To: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
        "RE: Modified Fuel Injection" (Apr 22, 12:05pm)
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	<3.0.5.32.19980422120558.007a7d60@xephic.dynip.com>
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On Apr 22, 12:05pm, Frederic Breitwieser wrote:

> Yes, that is true.  But you can move the injectors, maf, and other
> components over by doing some minor fabricating.  On the carb'd manifold,
> you bore 8 holes to allow the welding of injector bosses, then shove the
> injectors in.  There's a good book on this subject from Motorbooks
> International, I can get the exact title and ISBN number if you are
> interested.... I bought it myself and found it more than useful :)


Please do.  I'm definitely interested...

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 15:06:33 1998
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Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 15:05:51 -0400
From: Thomas Matthews <Tmatthe1@worldnet.att.net>
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		<3.0.5.32.19980422120558.007a7d60@xephic.dynip.com> <9804221337.ZM1834@mongoose.dearborn.sgi.com>
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I believe the book that Frederic was referring to is called Fuel
Injection Installation, Performance Tuning, Modifications by Jeff
Hartman... ISBN number is 0-87938-743-2 and it lists for 19.95. Very
valuable resource for the begenning DIY-EFI'r...
BTW, I'm in the midst of 2 EFI projects for my 69 Firebird 455, one is a
very simple Holley Projection 4 with a '747 computer. This one should be
on in a couple of weeks... And, I'm also working on a port setup with a
TR intake and a '730 GM ECM, but the manifold requires some fabrication 
that is going to take me a while longer (plus the manifold suffers from
major core shift) which has pushed back the project awhile...
Another ECM you could use is the 86-9 GM 148 with a MAF, and either put
in 2 MAF's, or resize the original, or purchase a larger MAF from Bosch
(these are some of the options we discussed a few months ago)
Good luck in your projects!
Tom

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 15:10:45 1998
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From: "Haigh, Bill" <haigh@alldata.com>
To: "'DIY-EFI Mail List'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Introduction
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 12:11:51 -0700
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Hello everyone!

I am new to this list, so I figured an intro would be in order. I am an
ASE certified Master Automobile Technician, along with ASE certs in body
repair, machine shop, heavy trucks, and alternate fuels. I worked in
machine shops for a few years, then Chrysler dealerships for nearly 10
years, and for the last 4 years I have been a technical editor for
http://www.alldata.tsb.com.

I love old Mopars (as my home page shows) but I have owned lots of
"other" vehicles too. My current daily driver is a '69 Charger with a
225 (slant 6) cylinder engine. One day (soon) I will fit it with a MPI
system, then (eventually) a turbocharger........ which is why I am here.
:-)

I hope I can help this list as much as (I am certain) it will help me.



Bill Haigh

"You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him fish"
http://www.softcom.net/users/haigh/




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 15:42:39 1998
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On Wed, 22 Apr 1998, Steven Gorkowski wrote:

> GM output map variable voltage , ford variable frequency. Didn't answer
> in last post.

Ok that sounds familliar.  But what about GM vs. Ford MAF's ?  Ford units 
put out a voltage (which approaches 5V asumptotically) but what about the 
GM's?
thanks
jw


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 15:46:36 1998
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From: James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca>
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Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection
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Oops, we've got our MAF's and MAP's confused.  We know that the ford MAF 
puts out voltage with air flow and the ford MAP puts out fequency vs. 
presure.  What I was asking was how does this compare to GM units?  I 
thought the GM MAF put out freq. and the GM MAP put out a voltage 
(oposite to the ford system).  You originally said something about GM 
MAF's and their voltage vs air flow curve.  I thought this should be 
frequency.
no biggie
jw


On Wed, 22 Apr 1998 jdzura@csc.com wrote:

> I'm interested, but I don't understand what you mean by "Variable Frequency". I
> thought the EEC IV put out voltage not frequency. What does a varying voltage
> caused by changing air flow have to do with frequency?  When you say you have t he
> tables, do you mean the map of airflow vs output voltage for a specific MAF?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kb4mxo@mwt.net on 04/22/98 04:16:49 AM
> 
> Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> 
> To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> cc:    (bcc: Joe Dzura/SED/CSC)
> Subject:  Re: Modified Fuel Injection
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ford EECIV map will put out a variable frequency. Have tables if you
> need them
> Steve
> James Weiler wrote:
> > Hmm GM and ford too?  I knew fords were like that but I thought that
> > the
> > GM units put out a variable frequency vs. mass air flow.  Am I getting
> >
> > confused with the ford MAP sensor ?
> > any help mucho appreciado
> > later
> > jw
> >
> > On Tue, 21 Apr 1998, A70Duster wrote:
> >
> > > You may read that the AMS (from GM units ) put out a voltage that is
> > directly
> > > proportional to the Air Mass.  That is NOT true.  It is a parabolic
> > function.
> > > Friendly advice.  Good luck.
> > >
> > > See ya,
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 16:03:31 1998
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From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Fuel Injection Book
In-Reply-To: <9804221337.ZM1834@mongoose.dearborn.sgi.com>
References: <Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
 <Pine.LNX.3.96.980421154030.629A-100000@main>
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>> International, I can get the exact title and ISBN number if you are
>> interested.... I bought it myself and found it more than useful :)

>Please do.  I'm definitely interested...

I found it at Amazon Books, www.amazon.com, or if you want to give me a
nickel, click their add off my website at www.xephic.dynip.com.

Jeff Hartman gives a lot of information throughout the book on different
options, math relating to injector size calculations, how all the pieces
work, as well as covers four installations of various EFI systems,
including projection, a TBI swap, a good discussion on a Bronco 460 swap,
and one for a Europa I believe.  Anyway, the first 2/3 of the book is
ideas, theory, and how to apply it.

I bought this in conjunction with Corky Bell's book "Maximum Boost", since
I'm trying to build a 4.1L Buick V6 with twin turbos, using the stock ECM.
Which I prety much have to rethink.

Anyway, the info:

Fuel Injection : Installation, Performance Tuning, Modification (Motorbooks
                                International Powerpro)
                                by Jeff Hartman
                                List: $19.95
                                Our Price: $15.96
                                You Save: $3.99 (20%) 

                                Availability: This title usually ships
within 24
                                hours.

                                Paperback, 160 pages
                                Published by Motorbooks International
                                Publication date: August 1993
                                Dimensions (in inches): 0.41 x 10.60 x 8.28
                                ISBN: 0879387432
Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 16:24:48 1998
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Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 16:24:04 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection
In-Reply-To: <353E3F8F.F06FE13E@worldnet.att.net>
References: <Pine.LNX.3.96.980421154030.629A-100000@main>
 <3.0.5.32.19980422120558.007a7d60@xephic.dynip.com>
 <9804221337.ZM1834@mongoose.dearborn.sgi.com>
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>Hartman... ISBN number is 0-87938-743-2 and it lists for 19.95. Very
>valuable resource for the begenning DIY-EFI'r...

Yes, that's the book I was speaking of.  Its an excellent resource!

>Another ECM you could use is the 86-9 GM 148 with a MAF, and either put
>in 2 MAF's, or resize the original, or purchase a larger MAF from Bosch

This is the setup I'm working with, because the ECM came with the donor
vehicle for my mid-engined sports car.  I haven't decided whether to put
the existing, working MAF inside a larger tube, or to run two of them in
parallel, and take data from one or the other alternatively, with a
crossover tube between them ensuring they are balanced if one of the
turbo's stop spinning (for some strange reason).

I have to say that book helped out a lot, as did everyone on this list.
Originally, I had a misconception I could get away with doubling the output
of the injectors by replacing them and increasing the fuel pressure, then
doubling the airflow.

*bbbbbbzzzzzzzzzz*.

:)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 16:41:34 1998
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From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection
Cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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>Ok that sounds familliar.  But what about GM vs. Ford MAF's ?  Ford units 
>put out a voltage (which approaches 5V asumptotically) but what about the 
>GM's?

They also put out a frequency based on airflow!  I have the specs of the
3.8L FWD MAF from 1986 somewhere, if I find it I'll post it to the list.  I
had done several "shop vac airflow" tests to see how it worked.

My Lincoln Continental MAF goes from .1 volts to 5.3 volts depending on the
flow.  Measured that with a digital VOM while driving on the freeway last
fall.




Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection
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>(oposite to the ford system).  You originally said something about GM 
>MAF's and their voltage vs air flow curve.  I thought this should be 
>frequency.
>no biggie

While its confusing, at one point in the 90's, GM switched from frequency
to voltage, and Ford switched from voltage to Frequency.

Maybe they thought each other had a better idea :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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Is the XXXX.S16 a motarola S record format file ? what does it 
look like in a text editor ??

Mike D.

> From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
> 
> 
> >>Would anyone have a bin for a 86, 3.8 FWD Buick/Olds using
> >>a 1227148 or know if it is the same code/table locations as a
> >>GN/TType?..
> >Howdy.
> >I have that exact engine, ECM and chip.  Unfortunately my reader is dead.
> Come up with an alternate solution (i.e. I mail the chip to you and you send
> it back at some point) and you can leach the bin if you want >Frederic
> Breitwieser
> >Bridgeport, CT 06606
> >
> Hope your feeling better..
> The above idea will work, fine
> 
> Bruce Plecan
> 18 E 1st St
> Arcanum, OH  45304
> 
> BTW, ya know what a file extension of .S16 means?.   I got some
> bins but with that file extension, and just changing it to .bin doesn't
> seem to work.
> Cheers
> Bruce
> 
> 
> 

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Please remove my name from the mailing list.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 17:53:47 1998
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On Wed, 22 Apr 1998, Frederic Breitwieser wrote:

> While its confusing, at one point in the 90's, GM switched from frequency
> to voltage, and Ford switched from voltage to Frequency.

Do you know when Ford switched from voltage to frequency for their MAF's 
??  This is news to me.
later
jw


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On Wed, 22 Apr 1998, Frederic Breitwieser wrote:

> While its confusing, at one point in the 90's, GM switched from frequency
> to voltage, and Ford switched from voltage to Frequency.

Do you know when Ford switched from voltage to frequency for their MAF's 
??  This is news to me.
later
jw


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 18:15:41 1998
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Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 15:16:17 -0700
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On Wed, 22 Apr 1998 16:42:24 -0700, Frederic Breitwieser
<frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com> wrote:

>My Lincoln Continental MAF goes from .1 volts to 5.3 volts depending on the
>flow.  Measured that with a digital VOM while driving on the freeway last
>fall.

Say Fred.

Uh, is the MAF unit you refer to above, the STOCK OEM MAF unit that
comes on all 93 Continentals? IF so, what pray is the engine
displacement on that monster. Says you have supercharged it in your .sig
line; is the increased flow after super also encompassed in the stock
MAF's range? Reason for the 20 questions is I'm lookin fer a voltage MAF
for instrumentation purposes that has a goodly airflow range. Can you
tell me anything else about it, like is it hot wire or hot film, who's
mfg. etc. etc. TIA!

Garfield


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Subject: GM ECM for 455 Poncho/Hartman book
References: <Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
	 <Pine.LNX.3.96.980421154030.629A-100000@main>
	 <3.0.5.32.19980422120558.007a7d60@xephic.dynip.com> <3.0.5.32.19980422155722.007a4b20@xephic.dynip.com>
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Wow, did I have my head up my anal orfice.... What I was talking about
was a 165 ECM, the 86-89 TPI one... Someday I'd like to boost it too,
but that's a long while down the road...I was going to go the MAF route,
but the cost of finding a couple of Bosch MAF sensors for tests are
really prohibitive for me... The Bosch MAF's run on a voltage system,
whereas the much higher flowing LT1 MAF uses frequency variation... If
we could only hack the 94-5 GM LT1 ECM totally IMO it would probably be
an ideal DIY controller, but it's likely going to be awhile before it's
hacked like the 747 and 730 ECM's...
The Hartman book has been an incredible resource, almost as good as this
list... Just don't forget to keep your mailer set on sending plain text
messages.... <grin>
Tom

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Subject: Re: GM ECM for 455 Poncho/Hartman book
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 19:23:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <353E6F68.B34DF281@worldnet.att.net> from "Thomas Matthews" at Apr 22, 98 06:30:00 pm
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> 
> Wow, did I have my head up my anal orfice.... What I was talking about
> was a 165 ECM, the 86-89 TPI one... Someday I'd like to boost it too,
> but that's a long while down the road...I was going to go the MAF route,
> but the cost of finding a couple of Bosch MAF sensors for tests are
> really prohibitive for me... The Bosch MAF's run on a voltage system,
> whereas the much higher flowing LT1 MAF uses frequency variation... If
> we could only hack the 94-5 GM LT1 ECM totally IMO it would probably be
> an ideal DIY controller, but it's likely going to be awhile before it's
> hacked like the 747 and 730 ECM's...
> The Hartman book has been an incredible resource, almost as good as this
> list... Just don't forget to keep your mailer set on sending plain text
> messages.... <grin>


Ford MAF units run on voltage output systems
hit the local junkyard and find one from a 460
Clive 


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 19:49:32 1998
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Hi Mike
If I remember I used I think s19 records years ago I may still have the
docs on its format I think you can read in a edit program and can figure
out most of the stuff you want . My eprom programmer burns s19 format or
converts to hex format can't remember . Will try to find and scan it in
and email if you want.

Steve

Mike Dillon wrote:

> Is the XXXX.S16 a motarola S record format file ? what does it
> look like in a text editor ??
>
> Mike D.
>
> > From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
> >
> >
> > >>Would anyone have a bin for a 86, 3.8 FWD Buick/Olds using
> > >>a 1227148 or know if it is the same code/table locations as a
> > >>GN/TType?..
> > >Howdy.
> > >I have that exact engine, ECM and chip.  Unfortunately my reader is
> dead.
> > Come up with an alternate solution (i.e. I mail the chip to you and
> you send
> > it back at some point) and you can leach the bin if you want
> >Frederic
> > Breitwieser
> > >Bridgeport, CT 06606
> > >
> > Hope your feeling better..
> > The above idea will work, fine
> >
> > Bruce Plecan
> > 18 E 1st St
> > Arcanum, OH  45304
> >
> > BTW, ya know what a file extension of .S16 means?.   I got some
> > bins but with that file extension, and just changing it to .bin
> doesn't
> > seem to work.
> > Cheers
> > Bruce
> >
> >
> >




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 20:07:02 1998
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Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 20:03:10 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection
In-Reply-To: <Pine.SOL.3.91.980422145221.1583B-100000@koala>
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>Do you know when Ford switched from voltage to frequency for their MAF's 
>??  This is news to me.

I read it somewhere, in fact, I thought I read it here.  I just checked my
2 megs of saved messages... didn't find it.  Might be on the garage PC :)
I'll look in a bit.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 20:16:44 1998
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		 <Pine.LNX.3.96.980421154030.629A-100000@main>
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If you guys want to do maf National has 3 pin temp ICS(look like 2n2222
Xsistors) use 2 of  them as shown in the book as a anemometer. The ICs
are buck each use a uC to scale to make it work with GM or FORD or what
ever. Every once in a while you will need to clean parts by hand will
not have clean function like factory mafs.  When knife edge orifice
comes in from machine shop can continue with flow bench so I can build
one.

Steve

Thomas Matthews wrote:

> Wow, did I have my head up my anal orfice.... What I was talking about
>
> was a 165 ECM, the 86-89 TPI one... Someday I'd like to boost it too,
> but that's a long while down the road...I was going to go the MAF
> route,
> but the cost of finding a couple of Bosch MAF sensors for tests are
> really prohibitive for me... The Bosch MAF's run on a voltage system,
> whereas the much higher flowing LT1 MAF uses frequency variation... If
>
> we could only hack the 94-5 GM LT1 ECM totally IMO it would probably
> be
> an ideal DIY controller, but it's likely going to be awhile before
> it's
> hacked like the 747 and 730 ECM's...
> The Hartman book has been an incredible resource, almost as good as
> this
> list... Just don't forget to keep your mailer set on sending plain
> text
> messages.... <grin>
> Tom




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 20:37:47 1998
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To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
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>Say Fred.

Say Garfield :)

>Uh, is the MAF unit you refer to above, the STOCK OEM MAF unit that
>comes on all 93 Continentals? 

Yes, its the MAF that came with the car.  The only thing I did to the
engine support system was to replace the injectors with one size larger
than OEM, bolt on a paxton supercharger from a Mustang 5.0L, and move the
air conditioning compressor from the back of the engine to the front of the
engine (its a transverse engine, looking at it with your knees against the
bumper).

The engine is the factory 3.8L engine, balanced, blueprinted, intake, heads
and exhaust ported, with forged pistons and shot-peened rods, maintaining
the original compression ratio, at least thats what the shop said when I
got the car back.  I drove the car around for about a month, then had time
to put in the new injectors (one size larger), and the paxton.  Brackets
had to be fabricated, and the air conditioning compressor relocated,
because the Paxton unit wouldn't fit in the front of the engine between the
engine and the radiator support bracket - its fatter than the A/C.  

When I first got the supercharger attached to the new, longer belts, the
car ran like crap.  I replaced the MAF with a 5.0L MAF (from the same car I
got the paxton from), and it ran the same way.  Idle was okay after the car
ran for about 10 minutes, but hard acceleration was pretty bad, so I put
the original MAF back in.  I decided just not to push the car for a week,
and worry about taking it out the following weekend (I installed this on a
Sunday night, which was pretty stupid).  Anyway, over the week, from
driving from upstate NY to NYC, the problem went away.  I'm assuming the
ECM learned a new trick.

Anyway, you weren't interested in the brackets, so onto the MAF issues.  I
just looked at the MAF for ya, and it says this:

	FORD
	F12F-12B579-AA
	AFH55-03B
	2F0

I know this is the MAF that came with the car... when I first did this, the
car ran like complete crap at idle, and after a few minutes, seemed to be
more "stable".  Under boost conditions, the car ran like crap, sputtering,
and obviously being confused.  I put the original injectors in thinking
something was wrong with them, and it got worse under boost.  So, I put the
new ones back in, called a friend, who told me to drive nicely for a week,
and the ECM should learn about the new injectors, as it will be using the
O2 sensor.  So, I did that, and he was right, it did get much better, and
started to purr like a kitten, in about, oh maybe 30-40 miles worth of
highway driving?   SOmething like that.  Under boost, it still ran like
crap, though the point where it would cough seemingly getting higher.  So,
I tapped the intake and put on a 0-10PSI pressure gauge, and watched what
was happening.  7PSI is about all the ECM will take before the thing chokes
to death.  Below that, it runs fine with more power/torque I can actually
feel.

That was then, this is now.

After learning a lot more about MAFs, MAPs, EEC-IV, Fuel Injection, etc,
I've done some tests over the last few months.  The MAF reaches full
voltage (5.2 or 5.3V) somewhere between 1-2PSI.  Its a cheap analog gauge,
so it could be off.  Anyway, the MAF is maxed out right away, and somehow,
the car is either ignoring it, adapted to it, or something else happened
because of the larger injectors, I really couldn't tell ya to be honest.
But this MAF does max out at about 1-2PSI.

I don't have a scan too, but the engine light and the service light stay
off.  Originally, the service light would blink on and off when I first
installed everything, and eventually it stopped, at about the same time the
car seemed to "adapt".

There are only two situations where these modifications don't peform well.
The first is when the car sits overnight in 0 degree weather, the engine
turns right over, but runs a bit rough for abut 35-40 seconds, then it
settles down, but no engine/service lights.  The second is if the car's
been run on the highway for about an hour or so, then is shut down, the
service light comes on if I start the car within a few minutes, but goes
out after about a minute.  This happens when I drive home from work (65
mile ride), and stop at the smoke shop on the way home to get a nicotine
refill.

Other than that, it seems okay.  I hope I told you something useful, or
answered your question.  To be entirely honest, I "slapped" this together,
without any real research or understanding of fuel injection systems, and
lucked out.  I know 10 times what I knew then, and still haven't a clue (10
times zero is still zero, right?)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 21:08:02 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <jewett@sunset.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 18:14:06 -0700
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Hey Projection with a 747... Do tell.. I was thinking of the same setup for
my SB...? Is the Projection 4 a two stage throttle body, or single
stage...? How do you hook up the injectors, in series?

----------
> From: Thomas Matthews <Tmatthe1@worldnet.att.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection
> Date: Wednesday, April 22, 1998 12:05 PM
> 
> I believe the book that Frederic was referring to is called Fuel
> Injection Installation, Performance Tuning, Modifications by Jeff
> Hartman... ISBN number is 0-87938-743-2 and it lists for 19.95. Very
> valuable resource for the begenning DIY-EFI'r...
> BTW, I'm in the midst of 2 EFI projects for my 69 Firebird 455, one is a
> very simple Holley Projection 4 with a '747 computer. This one should be
> on in a couple of weeks... And, I'm also working on a port setup with a
> TR intake and a '730 GM ECM, but the manifold requires some fabrication 
> that is going to take me a while longer (plus the manifold suffers from
> major core shift) which has pushed back the project awhile...
> Another ECM you could use is the 86-9 GM 148 with a MAF, and either put
> in 2 MAF's, or resize the original, or purchase a larger MAF from Bosch
> (these are some of the options we discussed a few months ago)
> Good luck in your projects!
> Tom

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Please remove my name from the mailing list.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 21:49:51 1998
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Is this a panic request or can you wait until this weekend for it? I will
send a file from my 1986 Ciera GT with a 3.8L Vin 3 and 4T60. It's getting a
3800 Superchargered and 4T60E.

Send me you email address.

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, April 22, 1998 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: NA FWD 148 Bin


>>Would anyone have a bin for a 86, 3.8 FWD Buick/Olds using
>>a 1227148 or know if it is the same code/table locations as a
>>GN/TType?..
>
>Howdy.
>
>I have that exact engine, ECM and chip.  Unfortunately my reader is dead.
>Come up with an alternate solution (i.e. I mail the chip to you and you
>send it back at some point) and you can leach the bin if you want
>
>
>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>
>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>1989 HMMWV
>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>
>-
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 21:50:57 1998
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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 11:50:41 +1000
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From: Wayne Blair <wayneb@foxboro.com.au>
Subject: file formats
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This may be helpful

http://www.wotsit.demon.co.uk/

wayne

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 21:51:28 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: NA FWD 148 Bin 
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 18:50:10 -0700
Message-ID: <01bd6e5a$26697780$0a0101c0@terryk.foothill.net>
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S16 Motorola format format. Use EMP to convert. Load as Mot format, change
format, same as bin.

Got package Bruce. Just like Christmas!

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, April 22, 1998 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: NA FWD 148 Bin


>
>>>Would anyone have a bin for a 86, 3.8 FWD Buick/Olds using
>>>a 1227148 or know if it is the same code/table locations as a
>>>GN/TType?..
>>Howdy.
>>I have that exact engine, ECM and chip.  Unfortunately my reader is dead.
>Come up with an alternate solution (i.e. I mail the chip to you and you
send
>it back at some point) and you can leach the bin if you want >Frederic
>Breitwieser
>>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>>
>Hope your feeling better..
>The above idea will work, fine
>
>Bruce Plecan
>18 E 1st St
>Arcanum, OH  45304
>
>BTW, ya know what a file extension of .S16 means?.   I got some
>bins but with that file extension, and just changing it to .bin doesn't
>seem to work.
>Cheers
>Bruce
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 22:14:29 1998
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Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 22:14:15 -0400
From: Thomas Matthews <Tmatthe1@worldnet.att.net>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection/Projection
References: <199804230111.SAA03751@diamond.sunset.net>
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The Projection 4 is a later design type, single stage with 1:1 pri/sec
throttle, and it's fitted with IAC...
Pretty simple looking setup (famous last words), we'll see in a week or
2 how easy it is to get working...
Tom

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 22:48:16 1998
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Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 21:51:08 -0700
From: David Garnier <garnierd@csd.uwm.edu>
Organization: Say What?
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To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Apology: Re: OTC's ecm system tester
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Fellow DIY_EFI'ers

I didn't realize what I stupid thing I had done posting that excel
file until I received the Digest version and saw the bandwidth I ate 
up. My ISP is free from the university but yours is probably not, my
apology's to all.

Thanks steve@sun4c409.imes.com for doing the right thing.  If anyone
would like it in excel file, email me.

sincerely,

dave garnier

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 22:55:59 1998
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From: "Icegod" <icegod@fred.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Remove
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 22:53:58 -0400
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Please remove my name from the mailing list

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 23:02:02 1998
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: NA FWD 148 Bin
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BD6EB7.F9B98F00
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I'd be interested in a 3800 Supercharged Bin

Peter

----------
From: 	TBK
Sent: 	Thursday, April 23, 1998 11:48 AM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: NA FWD 148 Bin

Is this a panic request or can you wait until this weekend for it? I will
send a file from my 1986 Ciera GT with a 3.8L Vin 3 and 4T60. It's getting a
3800 Superchargered and 4T60E.

Send me you email address.

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, April 22, 1998 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: NA FWD 148 Bin


>>Would anyone have a bin for a 86, 3.8 FWD Buick/Olds using
>>a 1227148 or know if it is the same code/table locations as a
>>GN/TType?..
>
>Howdy.
>
>I have that exact engine, ECM and chip.  Unfortunately my reader is dead.
>Come up with an alternate solution (i.e. I mail the chip to you and you
>send it back at some point) and you can leach the bin if you want
>
>
>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>
>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>1989 HMMWV
>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>
>-
>



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------ =_NextPart_000_01BD6EB7.F9B98F00--



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 23:29:01 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <jewett@sunset.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection/Projection
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 20:27:24 -0700
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Well keep us posted.. and keep track of those part numbers if ya can..!

----------
> From: Thomas Matthews <Tmatthe1@worldnet.att.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection/Projection
> Date: Wednesday, April 22, 1998 7:14 PM
> 
> The Projection 4 is a later design type, single stage with 1:1 pri/sec
> throttle, and it's fitted with IAC...
> Pretty simple looking setup (famous last words), we'll see in a week or
> 2 how easy it is to get working...
> Tom

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 22 23:42:57 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <jewett@sunset.net>
To: "Do-it-Yourself Fuel Injection" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: S?? File formats...
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 20:49:39 -0700
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While playing with s19 file formats I thought I would send some source code
on a converter, hope it helps...

Derek

****************************************************************************
*****


/*
 * Convert Motorola S1/S9 hex files to Intel hex.
 *
 * R. B. Hoffman, July 1985.
 *
 * usage:   hexcvt < motorola-file > intel-file
 */

#include <stdio.h>

char line[256];

main() {
	int bc, val, cksm, fcksm, i;
	long laddr;

	while (fgets(line, 256, stdin) != NULL) {
		if (line[0] != 'S')
			continue;
		if (line[1] == '9')
			break;
		if (line[1] != '1')
			continue;
		sscanf(&line[2],"%2x",&bc);
		sscanf(&line[4],"%4x",&laddr);
		printf(":%02X%04X00", bc-3, laddr);
		cksm = bc + (laddr & 0xFF) + ((laddr >> 8) & 0xFF);
		for (i=0; i<(bc-3); i++) {
			sscanf(&line[i*2 + 8], "%2x", &val);
			cksm += val;
			printf("%02X", val);
		}
		sscanf(&line[(bc-3)*2 + 8], "%2x", &fcksm);
		cksm = ~cksm & 0xFF;
		if (cksm != fcksm)
			fprintf(stderr,"cksm=%02x, fcksm=%02x\n", cksm, fcksm);
		printf("%02X\n", (cksm+4) & 0xFF);
	}
	printf(":0000000000\n");
}
-- 
Bob Hoffman, N3CVL       {allegra, bellcore, cadre, idis,
psuvax1}!pitt!hoffman
Pitt Computer Science    hoffman@vax.cs.pittsburgh.edu


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 01:17:29 1998
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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 00:13:29 -0500
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Howdy folks,

Since this is my first post on this list, I'd like to introduce myself.
I'm a computer programmer, emphasis on graphics and user interfaces, AI
paradigms (neural nets, fuzzy logic, genetic algorithms, ...) which
basically means I like to play with neat stuff :-)

Automotive background includes ownership of two late model mustangs, one
which sees regular visits to the drag strip (when not apart).  I've
fooled around with ford eec systems for about two years now, which led
me eventually to this list.

Now for the reply to Garfield.  Several aftermarket companies sell mafs
as large as 80mm diameter (flow close to 1100 cfm at 14psi!) and they
can come calibrated with different sampling tubes and/or electronics
(i.e. bridge recal.) to give a proper 1-5v range for the airflow
expected, allowing the stock computer to keep using the same internal
fuel tables.  The setup works well, although some have complained that
the mechanical calibrations (the sampling tubes) don't always match the
stock airflow tables, creating surging and driveability problems.

One company whose product I use in both my cars is C&L performance,
right here in town.  The mafs I use are 73mm, which flow well enough for
most hot-rodded v8's out there.  The maf uses the stock ford meter (hot
wire) with the stock bridge.  Calibration for non-stock injector sizes
is achieved through different diameter sampling tubes.  New, the units
sell for about $180, although several internet swap trading places for
stang parts (corral.net, for one) have them used for $100-$120.  Lee
Bender, owner of C&L performance and developer of the meter, has flow
sheets for most of the meters he sells.  I believe the 73mm or the 80mm
units should be plenty for most automotive flow measurements.

Daniel

BTW, were you folks aware that ford built two neural net based
prototypes for cars?  One was for an active suspension system (like
Lotus/Vette), the other was for an adaptive engine control system.
Dunno what happened to them (since about 93), anyone know?



garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

> On Wed, 22 Apr 1998 16:42:24 -0700, Frederic Breitwieser
> <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com> wrote:
>
> >My Lincoln Continental MAF goes from .1 volts to 5.3 volts depending
> on the
> >flow.  Measured that with a digital VOM while driving on the freeway
> last
> >fall.
>
> Say Fred.
>
> Uh, is the MAF unit you refer to above, the STOCK OEM MAF unit that
> comes on all 93 Continentals? IF so, what pray is the engine
> displacement on that monster. Says you have supercharged it in your
> .sig
> line; is the increased flow after super also encompassed in the stock
> MAF's range? Reason for the 20 questions is I'm lookin fer a voltage
> MAF
> for instrumentation purposes that has a goodly airflow range. Can you
> tell me anything else about it, like is it hot wire or hot film, who's
>
> mfg. etc. etc. TIA!
>
> Garfield




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 01:39:01 1998
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From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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> >The Pontiac big-block shares no components with the Chevy big-blocks, so the
> >manifold from the 454 won't work on the Pontiac block.  You would be able to
> 
> Yes, that is true.  But you can move the injectors, maf, and other
> components over by doing some minor fabricating.  On the carb'd manifold,
> you bore 8 holes to allow the welding of injector bosses, then shove the
> injectors in.  There's a good book on this subject from Motorbooks
> International, I can get the exact title and ISBN number if you are
> interested.... I bought it myself and found it more than useful :)

yes,i'm very interested,BTW,today,i've run out of disk space (cone shaped
hat on) and i had to delete some mail (the old mail i received last month
among other) does anyone here have some mail of last month on the subject
of the programming 101 serie ???

p.s.now i have a 575 meg partition just for mail so these thing won't
re-happen soon.

p.p.s.thanks a lot !!

Alain



> 
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Bridgeport, CT 06606
> 
> Homebrew Automotive Website:
> http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
> 
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1989 HMMWV
> 2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
> 
> -
> 
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 01:53:24 1998
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Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 22:54:03 -0700
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On Thu, 23 Apr 1998 00:13:29 -0500, Daniel Ciobota <dciobota@hiwaay.net>
wrote:

>Now for the reply to Garfield.  Several aftermarket companies sell mafs
>as large as 80mm diameter (flow close to 1100 cfm at 14psi!)
>....
>One company whose product I use in both my cars is C&L performance,
>right here in town.

Ooooh, interesting poop, dude. I'll definitely look into it. I'd like to
have a range of MAF sensor capability for lab rat use, if nuthin else.

>BTW, were you folks aware that ford built two neural net based
>prototypes for cars?

Uh, yeah, listen Daniel, you'll find that most of the group members are
still tryna get their own "neural nets" to work OK, ifyaknowhadamean. I
dunno, I can't/don't speak for the group o'course, but my own personal
*neural network* is due for a transplant (or as some wag opined, just an
"implant" would be nice, heh).

Garfield, entangled as usual in his neural nets. (Hmm, maybe they should
be called "neural webs" ... ya know, rhymes with "cob webs"?)

P.S. Welcome to our wacko group, Daniel.


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 01:58:13 1998
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Frederic,

I read your post and I'm a little worried about your setup.  Yes, you
friend was right about about the computer being able to change the fuel
tables to accomodate for the airflow diferences and the larger
injectors.  However, from my experience with some fords (not yours,
though) I haven't seen any engine a map sensor capable of detecting
boost, except possibly for turbos and supercharged t-birds.  If your 3.8
is the same as the one used in Tauruses (Tauri?) then _definitely_ not.

Why is that important? Timing control.  Running full timing advance
under boost can cause detonation, so most "pressurized" engines employ
some sort of boost sensor to retard the timing under boost.  A trick
used by late model mustangs nowadays is to buy a custom burned chip
which replaces the ecu's internal tables, like timing advance and
injector pulse width with ones which take into account measured boost.

Your other problem, the maf voltage peaking out too early, can also
cause detonation due to the ecu's fuel table limitations; it's designed
to look up voltages up to 5.0 volts only.  The fix would be to buy an
aftermarket mustang maf calibrated for the injector size you currently
use.  See an earlier post I made.  You'll need to reset the computer
again, and let it relearn the new voltage/airflow settings.  However,
since the fuel table for a supercharged engine diverge _very_ quickly
from the default tables under boost conditions, you will initially
experience detonation until the computer adapts.  Your alternative is to
either use an boost sensitive fuel pressure regulator (fmu) or find out
if you can get a chip burned for your ecu.  I know several sources to
ask if you're interested.  In the mean time I urge you to be very
careful with your current setup.

Good luck,

Daniel



Frederic Breitwieser wrote:

> >Say Fred.
>
> Say Garfield :)
>
> >Uh, is the MAF unit you refer to above, the STOCK OEM MAF unit that
> >comes on all 93 Continentals?
>
> Yes, its the MAF that came with the car.  The only thing I did to the
> engine support system was to replace the injectors with one size
> larger
> than OEM, bolt on a paxton supercharger from a Mustang 5.0L, and move
> the
> air conditioning compressor from the back of the engine to the front
> of the
> engine (its a transverse engine, looking at it with your knees against
> the
> bumper).
>
> The engine is the factory 3.8L engine, balanced, blueprinted, intake,
> heads
> and exhaust ported, with forged pistons and shot-peened rods,
> maintaining
> the original compression ratio, at least thats what the shop said when
> I
> got the car back.  I drove the car around for about a month, then had
> time
> to put in the new injectors (one size larger), and the paxton.
> Brackets
> had to be fabricated, and the air conditioning compressor relocated,
> because the Paxton unit wouldn't fit in the front of the engine
> between the
> engine and the radiator support bracket - its fatter than the A/C.
>
> When I first got the supercharger attached to the new, longer belts,
> the
> car ran like crap.  I replaced the MAF with a 5.0L MAF (from the same
> car I
> got the paxton from), and it ran the same way.  Idle was okay after
> the car
> ran for about 10 minutes, but hard acceleration was pretty bad, so I
> put
> the original MAF back in.  I decided just not to push the car for a
> week,
> and worry about taking it out the following weekend (I installed this
> on a
> Sunday night, which was pretty stupid).  Anyway, over the week, from
> driving from upstate NY to NYC, the problem went away.  I'm assuming
> the
> ECM learned a new trick.
>
> Anyway, you weren't interested in the brackets, so onto the MAF
> issues.  I
> just looked at the MAF for ya, and it says this:
>
>         FORD
>         F12F-12B579-AA
>         AFH55-03B
>         2F0
>
> I know this is the MAF that came with the car... when I first did
> this, the
> car ran like complete crap at idle, and after a few minutes, seemed to
> be
> more "stable".  Under boost conditions, the car ran like crap,
> sputtering,
> and obviously being confused.  I put the original injectors in
> thinking
> something was wrong with them, and it got worse under boost.  So, I
> put the
> new ones back in, called a friend, who told me to drive nicely for a
> week,
> and the ECM should learn about the new injectors, as it will be using
> the
> O2 sensor.  So, I did that, and he was right, it did get much better,
> and
> started to purr like a kitten, in about, oh maybe 30-40 miles worth of
>
> highway driving?   SOmething like that.  Under boost, it still ran
> like
> crap, though the point where it would cough seemingly getting higher.
> So,
> I tapped the intake and put on a 0-10PSI pressure gauge, and watched
> what
> was happening.  7PSI is about all the ECM will take before the thing
> chokes
> to death.  Below that, it runs fine with more power/torque I can
> actually
> feel.
>
> That was then, this is now.
>
> After learning a lot more about MAFs, MAPs, EEC-IV, Fuel Injection,
> etc,
> I've done some tests over the last few months.  The MAF reaches full
> voltage (5.2 or 5.3V) somewhere between 1-2PSI.  Its a cheap analog
> gauge,
> so it could be off.  Anyway, the MAF is maxed out right away, and
> somehow,
> the car is either ignoring it, adapted to it, or something else
> happened
> because of the larger injectors, I really couldn't tell ya to be
> honest.
> But this MAF does max out at about 1-2PSI.
>
> I don't have a scan too, but the engine light and the service light
> stay
> off.  Originally, the service light would blink on and off when I
> first
> installed everything, and eventually it stopped, at about the same
> time the
> car seemed to "adapt".
>
> There are only two situations where these modifications don't peform
> well.
> The first is when the car sits overnight in 0 degree weather, the
> engine
> turns right over, but runs a bit rough for abut 35-40 seconds, then it
>
> settles down, but no engine/service lights.  The second is if the
> car's
> been run on the highway for about an hour or so, then is shut down,
> the
> service light comes on if I start the car within a few minutes, but
> goes
> out after about a minute.  This happens when I drive home from work
> (65
> mile ride), and stop at the smoke shop on the way home to get a
> nicotine
> refill.
>
> Other than that, it seems okay.  I hope I told you something useful,
> or
> answered your question.  To be entirely honest, I "slapped" this
> together,
> without any real research or understanding of fuel injection systems,
> and
> lucked out.  I know 10 times what I knew then, and still haven't a
> clue (10
> times zero is still zero, right?)
>
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
> Homebrew Automotive Website:
> http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1989 HMMWV
> 2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>
> -




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 02:13:45 1998
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> My Lincoln Continental MAF goes from .1 volts to 5.3 volts depending on the
> flow.  Measured that with a digital VOM while driving on the freeway last
> fall.

hummmmmm,5.3 volts,did you measure that in 4th gear (and if so,what's the
top end of your car ??)

Alain "just currious" Toussaint



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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 02:46:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: steve ravet <steve@sun4c409.imes.com>
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Subject: Re: OTC's ecm system tester
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> Here's the list for you unix propeller heads that don't have excel... 
> :-)

i'll check if it's readable by staroffice ( a Unix office suite also
available on win95),if so,does anyone would like an html output of the
file ???



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 02:51:06 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 23:51:48 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Thu, 23 Apr 1998 02:11:32 -0400 (EDT), Alain Toussaint
<alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca> wrote:

>> My Lincoln Continental MAF goes from .1 volts to 5.3 volts depending on the
>> flow.  Measured that with a digital VOM while driving on the freeway last
>> fall.
>
>hummmmmm,5.3 volts,did you measure that in 4th gear (and if so,what's the
>top end of your car ??)

Heh heh. Methinks the regulator for the ECM's logic supply was in "4th
gear" too, or the grounds in the car are cheesy. I had a recent
dicussion with a buddy of mine who was messin with some auto logic, and
he was mentioning numbers like that, and worried some because it was
over 5V.

Main thing to remember is that most logic devices are spec'd for
supplies of 5V +- 0.5V, so ya gotta expect to see 'regulated' Vcc
voltages roamin around 5.0V by a tad, also. A sensor swinging up close
to Vcc rail, isn't so surprising to yield 5.3V. It's "within
parameters". BUT, see anything over 5.4-5.5V and it's time to start
asking questions.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 04:04:21 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'Fuel Injection List'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Crank sensor question...
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 09:01:22 +0100
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I have found an interesting little mod for my type of car ( Renault
5GTTurbo ) which is too simple for words... but I cannot work out why it
works.

It has been found that if you swap the wires from the crank sensor, to
the ignition module, the car pulls like a train from 3000rpm upwards.
The engines used to run out of steam at around 6000rpm, but with the
wire swap, it just keeps pulling...

Anyone got any ideas why this works like this?

Rob Humphris

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 04:24:08 1998
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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 02:11:15 -0600
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Steven Gorkowski wrote:
> 
> GM output map variable voltage , ford variable frequency. Didn't answer
> in last post.
> 
> James Weiler wrote:
> 
> > Hmm GM and ford too?  I knew fords were like that but I thought that
> > the
> > GM units put out a variable frequency vs. mass air flow.  Am I getting
> >
> > confused with the ford MAP sensor ?
> > any help mucho appreciado
> > later
> > jw
> >
> > On Tue, 21 Apr 1998, A70Duster wrote:
> >
> > > You may read that the AMS (from GM units ) put out a voltage that is
> > directly
> > > proportional to the Air Mass.  That is NOT true.  It is a parabolic
> > function.
> > > Friendly advice.  Good luck.
> > >
> > > See ya,
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
Take this with a grain of salt.  Delco MAF sensors (black
plastic) vary voltage with airflow.  Hitachi (die cast
aluminum) vary frequency with airflow.  Hitachi is used on
3.8l Buick from about 92 0r 93, and maybe others, and was
the answer to failure prone Delco unit.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 04:28:32 1998
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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 02:15:37 -0600
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> Would anyone have a bin for a 86, 3.8 FWD Buick/Olds using
> a 1227148 or know if it is the same code/table locations as a
> GN/TType?..
>   Or better yet if ya can just use a GN Editor to change the table
> entries for a NA prom?.
> Thanks
> Bruce
Bruce, got a calpack on the bench from 3.8l Olds.  Got the
year and model written on it, as well as part no.  Replaced
it with updated version to cure idle problems.  If you can
use it, it's yours.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 04:31:29 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Steve Lamb <lambs@HOTBLK.dsto.defence.gov.au>
Subject: Re: Crank sensor question...
Cc: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
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>It has been found that if you swap the wires from the crank sensor, to
>the ignition module, the car pulls like a train from 3000rpm upwards.
>The engines used to run out of steam at around 6000rpm, but with the
>wire swap, it just keeps pulling...
>
>Anyone got any ideas why this works like this?

Going out on a limb.....but........if this a magnetic pick-up type CAS then
you may be changing the ignition timing (??) by doing this.  I know that
some aftermarket ECU's need to be 'told' whether they are triggering on the
rising or falling part of the output signal of the sensor, so it may be
that the ECU is being 'fooled' by reversing the wires into altering the
ignition timing (advanced ??).

Prepared to be shot down in flames big time here.....................


Steve Lamb
Department of Defence, DSTO
Aeronautical and Maritime Research Laboratory
506 Lorimer Street
Fishermans Bend  VIC 3207 Australia

Tel: +61 3 9626 7525
Fax: +61 3 9626 7089

IZCC #180



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 04:45:53 1998
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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 02:32:56 -0600
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Alain Toussaint wrote:
> 
> does anyone here have some mail of last month on the subject
> of the programming 101 serie ???
> 
> p.s.now i have a 575 meg partition just for mail so these thing won't
> re-happen soon.
> 
> p.p.s.thanks a lot !!
> 
> Alain
> 
>Been saving 101 stuff.  What's the best way to send it, and how much do you want?

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 04:46:51 1998
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Alain Toussaint wrote:
> 
> > Here's the list for you unix propeller heads that don't have excel...
> > :-)
> 
> i'll check if it's readable by staroffice ( a Unix office suite also
> available on win95),if so,does anyone would like an html output of the
> file ???

Yuppers.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 04:50:31 1998
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Subject: Re: Crank sensor question...
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Ehh, connected wrong in the first place.  Or could it be that the ignition
module has some sort of built in advance retard feature.

Dan     dzorde@geocities.com

>I have found an interesting little mod for my type of car ( Renault
>5GTTurbo ) which is too simple for words... but I cannot work out why it
>works.
>
>It has been found that if you swap the wires from the crank sensor, to
>the ignition module, the car pulls like a train from 3000rpm upwards.
>The engines used to run out of steam at around 6000rpm, but with the
>wire swap, it just keeps pulling...
>
>Anyone got any ideas why this works like this?
>
>Rob Humphris
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 06:58:28 1998
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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 06:55:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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> Ehh, connected wrong in the first place.  Or could it be that the ignition
> module has some sort of built in advance retard feature.
> 
> Dan     dzorde@geocities.com

i'll take a look in the manual (i happen to have one for renault 5)
BTW,how much anyone here would pay for a R5 in good condition with about
120 000 KM (75 000 milles) with next to no rust,the dealer (a honda
dealership) is asking 500$ (about 360$ US money),also,it's a Naturally
Aspirated one.

Alain


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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 07:03:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection
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> >Been saving 101 stuff.  What's the best way to send it, and how much do you want?
> 
> Shannen

mail it as the most convenient method you like (i can accept individual
copies of each mail,one mail with all messages attached to it,a tarball
i.e. a .tar.gz file or a .zip file,if you want to send all file,you
can but i only need those from march).

thanks a lot.
Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 07:25:11 1998
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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 12:28:51 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Gus Cameron <cameroa@sbu.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.19980421100210.007fb100@unix.sbu.ac.uk>
References: <Version.32.19980420232523.00d967b0@mail.wgn.net>
 <3.0.5.32.19980419203714.0079bc60@mail.qonline.com.au>
 <35390373.67DC0858@mwt.net>
 <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au>
 <01BD6940.54702120@pjaramaz>
 <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au>
 <199804181815.LAA19696@mail.wgn.net>
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At 10:02 21/04/98 +0100, you wrote:
>Just to change the subject a little bit....
>Can anyone tell me how lambda/AF ratio relates to the true % oxygen?  
snip
>TIA,
>gus


Hmm, well, no-one really picked this one up and ran with it.  So.... I took
a walk across to the library and Lo! Seek and you shall be rewarded etc.
etc.  

If you check out 
http://www.bracken.co.uk/misc/
you will see a figure relating % O2, CO, H2, NOx etc to Lambda.  It helps
to explain why the outputs from lambda (O2) sensors are non-linear and also
partially explains the differing curves that Garfield was reporting either
side of equivalence.

Sorry if this was common knowledge already.
gus

   




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 07:46:30 1998
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From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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Subject: Re: OTC's ecm system tester
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> > i'll check if it's readable by staroffice ( a Unix office suite also
> > available on win95),if so,does anyone would like an html output of the
> > file ???
> 
> Yuppers.
> 
> Shannen

i can't,i tried to open the file but the spreadsheet wouldn't let me do
so,i'll see if the next version will be able to do it (i'll have to wait
'till debian 2.0 make it into the stable directory,never mind this those
working with win95).

Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 08:51:04 1998
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Garfield,
Bosch do a hot film MAF sensor with voltage output (0280217107) which is
approx. 90mm diameter and max. flow rate of 1080 kg/hour - not sure of the
conversion to cfm, but it's a lot! Only oem applications I am aware of are
Bentley R turbo and Mclaren F1 road car! In the UK they cost approx. 200 of
our pounds. Maybe of interest??

Rich.


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 09:59:59 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Crank sensor question...
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 10:00:00 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
Subject: Crank sensor question...
>I have found an interesting little mod for my type of car ( Renault
>5GTTurbo ) which is too simple for words... but I cannot work out why it
works.
 It has been found that if you swap the wires from the crank sensor, to
>the ignition module, the car pulls like a train from 3000rpm upwards.
>The engines used to run out of steam at around 6000rpm, but with the wire
swap, it just keeps pulling...
>Anyone got any ideas why this works like this?
>Rob Humphris

If the pickup up in the dist uses a coil+reluctor then it generates a
A/C signal.  The module has a specific theshold when it triggers.
The faster you spin a reluctor in a coil, the greater the voltage, and
the earlier the signal.  IE in a GM HEI it's a bit over 1.5degrees per
1,000 rpm.   So depending on how it's wired/triggered you now
have a rpm sensitive advance or retard.  Hook a timing light to
a plug wire, and make the switch if the timing retards, then you
know it's retarding as a function of rpm.
Bruce      Just bought a larger Cone Shaped Hat, the Palm
                Impressions are still getting larger in my forehead.




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 11:22:18 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: F vs Voltage MAF (GM)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 11:22:09 -0400
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While some of it's dated I can't find anything saying that GM
used anything other than a Frequency MAF.  If and please
excuse ahead of time for the wrong EE terms, but if you 
measure the MAF output with a DVM, wouldn't you read
a voltage (rms?)?.  But, if you hook it up to a sillyscope
then you would see the frequency output?.
  And someone correct me if I'm wrong here too, but 
aren't all the GM MAPs a straight Voltage output..  Flucuating
but again to see clearly you would need a scope....
  Both would be on a running engine to get the right
pattern, cause of intake pulsations, 
Bruce    In the spirit of spring, be sure to have a least
              one florial pattern Cone Shape Hat at the
              ready..


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 11:25:58 1998
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To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.3.96.980423020828.547B-100000@main>
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>hummmmmm,5.3 volts,did you measure that in 4th gear (and if so,what's the
>top end of your car ??)

Probably was 4th gear.  My car hits 120 MPH and dies exactly upon the
speedo hitting 120.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 11:26:07 1998
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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 11:09:23 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
In-Reply-To: <353ED785.F39461D1@hiwaay.net>
References: <3.0.5.32.19980422164224.007a88e0@xephic.dynip.com>
 <353DA899.7E58F417@mwt.net>
 <3.0.5.32.19980422164224.007a88e0@xephic.dynip.com>
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Daniel,

>boost, except possibly for turbos and supercharged t-birds.  If your 3.8
>is the same as the one used in Tauruses (Tauri?) then _definitely_ not.

The 3.8L V6 engine was used in the mid-sized cars (well, what *I* call
midsized), T-birds, Cougars, and FWD Continentals.  I thought the Taurus
had a 3.0 supercharged engine in the SHO and a 3.3L for the naturally
aspirated version.  Either way, I'm unclear if this engine made it into the
Taurus platform.

Well, the voltage of the MAF does max out with barely any boost, so your
theory might be on the money.

>which replaces the ecu's internal tables, like timing advance and
>injector pulse width with ones which take into account measured boost.

I cannot tell you what the timing is doing... but you make a lot of sense
here. Buick GN's do the same thing, retards timing when the knock sensors
or pressure sensors sense potential trouble.

>from the default tables under boost conditions, you will initially
>experience detonation until the computer adapts.  Your alternative is to

ANd that would explain it "running like crap" for 60 miles when I upgraded
everything - so it was in fact learning its new environment.

>either use an boost sensitive fuel pressure regulator (fmu) or find out
>if you can get a chip burned for your ecu.  I know several sources to
>ask if you're interested.  In the mean time I urge you to be very
>careful with your current setup.

Its been good to me for 3 years... and the only time I have performance
problems is when the boost exceeds 7psi, which is rare.  I've hit the
120MPH speed limitation at just about 7PSI so I think I just lucked out so
far.

Anyway, thanks for the information... its been very educational...


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 11:12:02 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Crank sensor question...
In-Reply-To: <l03110702b164abc983ff@[146.221.36.211]>
References: < <c=US%a=_%p=Indigo_Active_Vi%l=CRIANLARICH-980423080122Z-560@crianlarich.i ndigo-avs.com>
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>that the ECU is being 'fooled' by reversing the wires into altering the
>ignition timing (advanced ??).
>
>Prepared to be shot down in flames big time here.....................

Why Steve, I think its a damn good guess :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 12:53:06 1998
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From: "Gregory A. Parmer" <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
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Subject: Hopeful 101 background notes
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I've read pieces of this time and again but
it never seems to sink in. I'm trying to
collect the stuff idjuts like me should know
*before* we get hair-brained ideas. Please correct
where necessary for possible entry into the 
"101" project.

BTW--This is about GM systems

I.	First the DIS or C3I (distributor-less) ignition systems
    1)  AKA "wasted spark" system since 2 plugs are fired at once --
        one of them on the compression stroke and one on the exhaust
        stroke)
    2)  Plugs are connected in series. According to Chilton, "the cylinder
        on the exhaust stroke requires very little of the available
        voltage to arc, so the remaining high voltage is used by the
        cylinder in firing position (TDC compression)."
    3)  The firing of individual coils is not controlled directly by the
        ECM. The C3I module acts exactly like a distributor from the 
        standpoint of the ECM. The C3I module monitors the crankshaft and
        camshaft sensors and communicates with the ECM primarily by the
        EST signal just like its distributor cousin. The EST (Electronic 
        Spark Timing) signal controls timing advance/retard but does not
        control which cylinder gets a spark. That's all done within the
        C3I module.

II.  Now for EFI issues
   1)  Tuned Port Injection (TPI) and Multi-Port Injection (MPI) use
       batch firing of fuel injectors. Even though each intake manifold
       runner has an injector, the injectors for each cylinder bank
       (1,3,5,7 & 2,4,6,8) are fired together. This is opposed to
       Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI) which opens injectors in
       sequence.
   2)  Injectors are fired at a rate based on crankshaft revolution,
       as signaled by the crankshaft sensor or distributor.
   3)  Fuel pressure is around 10psi for TBI systems and may range from
       28-50psi for port injection systems.
   4)  Some systems used a fixed fuel pressure while others referenced
       fuel pressure from manifold vacuum.


-greg       Are there flamesuits and CSHats that match?



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 13:25:42 1998
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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
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Just for giggles, anyone tell me what the definition of lambda is?  I
read somewhere that lambda is the excess air factor, i.e. lambda of .98
is just a tad (2%?) rich.
---------------------- Forwarded by John R Bucknell/JTE/Chrysler on
04/23/98 12:12 PM ---------------------------

        owner-diy_efi @ efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
        04/23/98 08:14 AM
Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu @ SMTP
To: diy_efi @ efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu @ SMTP
cc:
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)

At 10:02 21/04/98 +0100, you wrote:
>Just to change the subject a little bit....
>Can anyone tell me how lambda/AF ratio relates to the true % oxygen?
snip
>TIA,
>gus


Hmm, well, no-one really picked this one up and ran with it.  So.... I
took
a walk across to the library and Lo! Seek and you shall be rewarded etc.
etc.

If you check out
http://www.bracken.co.uk/misc/
you will see a figure relating % O2, CO, H2, NOx etc to Lambda.  It
helps
to explain why the outputs from lambda (O2) sensors are non-linear and
also
partially explains the differing curves that Garfield was reporting
either
side of equivalence.

Sorry if this was common knowledge already.
gus






From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 13:34:08 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Cc: Thomas Matthews <Tmatthe1@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 11:31:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Modified Fuel Injection/Projection
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References: <199804230111.SAA03751@diamond.sunset.net>
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From: cosmic.ray@juno.com (Raymond C Drouillard)
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On Wed, 22 Apr 1998 22:14:15 -0400 Thomas Matthews
<Tmatthe1@worldnet.att.net> writes:
>The Projection 4 is a later design type, single stage with 1:1 pri/sec
>throttle, and it's fitted with IAC...
>Pretty simple looking setup (famous last words), we'll see in a week 
>or
>2 how easy it is to get working...
>Tom

Holley Pro-Jection is pretty well a bolt-up (and plug-in) operation. 
Also, the 4D system is a whole lot easier to tune than the 4Di system.

I installed the 4Di system on my '89 Jeep Grand Wagoneer.  I wrote up a
tech article about it.  While it was written with the full-size Jeep
crowd in mind, it might contain some useful information.  Email me off
the list if you want the initial article.  I can also send you all the
updates that I had created and sent to the Full-Size Jeep lists.

Ray Drouillard

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 13:52:23 1998
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From: mdill@lsil.com (Mike Dillon)
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Just going from memory I think the format is somthing like:

 S1 <Address> <total nunber of bytes for this line> < Data > < checksum ones compliment>
     2 bytes     1 bytes                            X bytes           1 byte
 
It is an ascii file so it is readable by any text editor.

Mike D


> From diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu Wed Apr 22 19:47 CDT 1998
> From: Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
> X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.01 [en] (Win95; I)
> 
> Hi Mike
> If I remember I used I think s19 records years ago I may still have the
> docs on its format I think you can read in a edit program and can figure
> out most of the stuff you want . My eprom programmer burns s19 format or
> converts to hex format can't remember . Will try to find and scan it in
> and email if you want.
> 
> Steve
> 
> Mike Dillon wrote:
> 
> > Is the XXXX.S16 a motarola S record format file ? what does it
> > look like in a text editor ??
> >
> > Mike D.
> >
> > > From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
> > >
> > >
> > > >>Would anyone have a bin for a 86, 3.8 FWD Buick/Olds using
> > > >>a 1227148 or know if it is the same code/table locations as a
> > > >>GN/TType?..
> > > >Howdy.
> > > >I have that exact engine, ECM and chip.  Unfortunately my reader is
> > dead.
> > > Come up with an alternate solution (i.e. I mail the chip to you and
> > you send
> > > it back at some point) and you can leach the bin if you want
> > >Frederic
> > > Breitwieser
> > > >Bridgeport, CT 06606
> > > >
> > > Hope your feeling better..
> > > The above idea will work, fine
> > >
> > > Bruce Plecan
> > > 18 E 1st St
> > > Arcanum, OH  45304
> > >
> > > BTW, ya know what a file extension of .S16 means?.   I got some
> > > bins but with that file extension, and just changing it to .bin
> > doesn't
> > > seem to work.
> > > Cheers
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > >
> > >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 15:43:13 1998
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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 13:43:10 -0600 (MDT)
From: Matt Beaubien <mbeaubie@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca>
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To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Felpro EFI q's
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Hi all,

A friend of mine is into turbo Audi's of all sorts, and he would like to
know if the new Felpro EFI system can accomodate 5 cylinders. Is there a
contact number at Felpro for additonal information?

Also, he's looking at buying an S4 engine which does not have a distributor.
What are his options as far as aftermarket systems go (aside from
Electamotive...)? Apparantly, installing the stock S4 harness is _very_
involved, not to mention the performance limitations of a stock ECM.

Thanks for any info.


Matt Beaubien
mbeaubie@gpu.srv.ualberta
3 x 510
1 x Civic 1200
1 x 300ZXT


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 16:04:26 1998
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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 15:03:53 -0500
From: Daniel Ciobota <dciobota@hiwaay.net>
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References: <3.0.5.32.19980422164224.007a88e0@xephic.dynip.com>
	 <353DA899.7E58F417@mwt.net>
	 <3.0.5.32.19980422164224.007a88e0@xephic.dynip.com>
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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:

> Daniel,
>
> >boost, except possibly for turbos and supercharged t-birds.  If your 3.8
> >is the same as the one used in Tauruses (Tauri?) then _definitely_ not.
>
> The 3.8L V6 engine was used in the mid-sized cars (well, what *I* call
> midsized), T-birds, Cougars, and FWD Continentals.  I thought the Taurus
> had a 3.0 supercharged engine in the SHO and a 3.3L for the naturally
> aspirated version.  Either way, I'm unclear if this engine made it into the
> Taurus platform.

Sorry, Frederic, I meant the older generation taurus/sable.  They came with 3.0
as standard, 3.8 optional.  Believe it or not, the first couple of years they
had an optional 2.3l four available; talk about slooww...

BTW, you seem to have good luck with your combo, better than mine in fact.
Maybe those motors have a knock sensor on them...  Mine, sadly, didn't.

Daniel


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 16:33:33 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 13:34:14 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
Message-ID: <35b2a249.120726218@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
References: <Version.32.19980420232523.00d967b0@mail.wgn.net> <3.0.5.32.19980419203714.0079bc60@mail.qonline.com.au> <35390373.67DC0858@mwt.net> <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au> <01BD6940.54702120@pjaramaz> <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au> <199804181815.LAA19696@mail.wgn.net> <3.0.5.32.19980423122851.007fb100@unix.sbu.ac.uk>
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On Thu, 23 Apr 1998 12:28:51 +0100, Gus Cameron <cameroa@sbu.ac.uk>
wrote:

>Hmm, well, no-one really picked this one up and ran with it.  So.... I took
>a walk across to the library and Lo! Seek and you shall be rewarded etc.
>etc.  
>
>If you check out 
>http://www.bracken.co.uk/misc/
>you will see a figure relating % O2, CO, H2, NOx etc to Lambda.  It helps
>to explain why the outputs from lambda (O2) sensors are non-linear and also
>partially explains the differing curves that Garfield was reporting either
>side of equivalence.
>
>Sorry if this was common knowledge already.

Geez, no apology needed on this end, that's stellar stuff you found
there. Makes me think I might wanna get the book that chart came out of
too! The Horiba box also has a calibration procedure you can follow if
you have known concentration O2 (span/model/sample) gas mix (term you
use apprarently depends on what industry you're working in) with a
prepared concentration (4% is recommended, but you can manually
calibrate the box using anything known, between 0-25%).

And Gus, your conjecture on the shape of the O2 curve in that diagram
explaining the diff. shape on either side of stoich for the sensor IS
dead on target, cuz the shapes of them curves on either side, EXACTLY
mimic what you see in the NTK published 5-wire sensor curves in their
SAE articles. I'd say you've really cleared up a couple of voids in my
understanding from just that one graph. Nice sluething, dude. We oughta
send you out with the black bag more often. B)

Gar


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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 16:42:21 -0400 (EDT)
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To: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
cc: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.19980423110923.007aeac0@xephic.dynip.com>
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> The 3.8L V6 engine was used in the mid-sized cars (well, what *I* call
> midsized), T-birds, Cougars, and FWD Continentals.  I thought the Taurus
> had a 3.0 supercharged engine in the SHO and a 3.3L for the naturally
> aspirated version.  Either way, I'm unclear if this engine made it into the
> Taurus platform.

there was a 2.5L 4 banger at it debut and an optional 3.0L 6 ('till 87 or
88 when the 2.5 was abandoned in profit of the 3.0 as standard engine) the
3.8 made it in (or about) 89,the SHO entered the game this time too and
no,the SHO isn't supercharged,it make power the RPM way (it's yamaha as
subcontractor for ford who make this engine) and talking about RPM,yamaha
and SHO,yamaha simply put a sport bike engine of 3.0 in size in the car
(the car is CAPABLE of 5 digit RPM with a set of new valvespring and a
supercharger (vortech/paxton,take your pick),it has nothing to envy to a
porsche 911 twin-turbo) in 3.0 liter form,upgraded valvespring,extrude
honed head and a quartet of cam's,this particular car made 370 hp at the
front wheel at 7500 RPM,and the car reved to 10 000 RPM on the dyno (the
thing limithing power production was a restrictive intake,put on short
velocity stack on this and i'm sure you can make power where NASCAR car
run out of steam).

Alain

p.s.in the new taurus,2 motor are 3.0 (one OVH and one DOHC) and the
taurus SHO have a 3.4 liter V8.


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 18:07:31 1998
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Subject: Re: Fluid flow info
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 18:10:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.3.96.980423162535.375F-100000@main> from "Alain Toussaint" at Apr 23, 98 04:42:21 pm
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I found a fluid flow simulator that can be downloaded for free

www.fluid.mech.ntua.gr/selavi

looks pretty good
only comes in win16 amd win95 versions (NT coming soon)

Clive 


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 18:46:34 1998
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Subject: Re: Felpro EFI q's
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 15:46:31 -0700 (PDT)
In-Reply-To: <Pine.A41.3.96.980423133904.54034A-100000@gpu4.srv.ualberta.ca> from "Matt Beaubien" at Apr 23, 98 01:43:10 pm
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> A friend of mine is into turbo Audi's of all sorts, and he would like to
> know if the new Felpro EFI system can accomodate 5 cylinders. Is there a
> contact number at Felpro for additonal information?

For what particular car?  Is he intending to replace a CIS system?

> Also, he's looking at buying an S4 engine which does not have a distributor.
> What are his options as far as aftermarket systems go (aside from
> Electamotive...)? Apparantly, installing the stock S4 harness is _very_
> involved, not to mention the performance limitations of a stock ECM.

I think he should talk to Ned Ritchie at Intended Acceleration about
such 'limitations' (360) 754 1411.  In general, there is no need
to replace the Audi ignition system... and it is more likely to be
detrimental than to help.

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 19:45:02 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
In-Reply-To: <353F9EA8.93275E6A@hiwaay.net>
References: <3.0.5.32.19980422164224.007a88e0@xephic.dynip.com>
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>Sorry, Frederic, I meant the older generation taurus/sable.  They came
with 3.0
>as standard, 3.8 optional.  Believe it or not, the first couple of years they
>had an optional 2.3l four available; talk about slooww...

Aaaaah.  Okay, iI'm not confused anymore :) Yes, I remember the 4-banger...
my parents bought a Sable wagon with that engine.  Definately slow.  my
girlfriend has the 2.3 in her tempo, and its slow.  Though the car shifts
late going up and quick going down, so what it lacks in power, is somewhat
balanced by smart shifting.

>BTW, you seem to have good luck with your combo, better than mine in fact.
>Maybe those motors have a knock sensor on them...  Mine, sadly, didn't.

Could have a sensor, though I haven't found a Haynes or Chiltons for this
car specifically.  Eventually I will.  Not sure where the knock sensor
would be.

Just for giggles, I unplugged the MAF before I drove home from the train
station, and it didn't do anything negative or positive.  So, maybe the ECM
is ignoring it entirely at this point?

Thanks,


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 21:01:00 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <djewett@snowcrest.net>
To: "Do-it-Yourself Fuel Injection" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: New address
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 18:07:49 -0700
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Incase anyone has tried to send me email... I have a new address... :
djewett@snowcrest.net

Thanks

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 21:33:23 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Fluid flow info
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 21:33:22 -0400
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From: Clive Apps Techno-Logicals 416 510 0020 <clive@problem.tantech.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Fluid flow info
>I found a fluid flow simulator that can be downloaded for free
>www.fluid.mech.ntua.gr/selavi
>looks pretty good
>only comes in win16 amd win95 versions (NT coming soon)
>Clive 
>
Ya, and the port fuel injection video is neat also..
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 21:51:05 1998
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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 21:48:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: DIY list <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
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having received a call from my cousin who found a good car for sale (i'm
in search of one) not too expensive (i plan to take some holiday time in
vancouver in july),he found a old's ciera 83 having'bout 225 000 KM ( 140
000 milles,yes the car has lot o'milleage but then,i've got not much money
to spend on it,but at last,i'm not going to vancouver with him),but now,i
have a problem arging with mom's chum,he states that the car fuel milleage
is very low (in the V8 teritory) and the engine is a lot less reliable
than his 4 banger ( cavalier and sunbird 2.0L ),i want to set the record
straight,does the cavalier 4 banger is more reliable than the oldsmobile
2.8 V6 ?????

thanks a lot.
Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 22:05:44 1998
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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: DIY list <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
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On Thu, 23 Apr 1998, Alain Toussaint wrote:

> than his 4 banger ( cavalier and sunbird 2.0L ),i want to set the record
> straight,does the cavalier 4 banger is more reliable than the oldsmobile
> 2.8 V6 ?????
> 
In general, the 4 banger is more reliable than the Chevy "high
maintenance" 2.8 V6. YMMV, of course.


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 22:29:49 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 19:28:30 -0700
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You're opening a can of worms here.

The Iron Duke (called a Tech 4 after awhile) had it's moments just like the
2.8L V6 (which wasn't available in the Ciera in 1983. Not until 1985. The
Olds V6 is the Buick V6 3.0L.)

I am most familiar with the 2.8L. In terms of out-and-out failures, the 2.8L
V6 had some problems with the #4 rod but mostly in the HO version (Z code
engine). This was solved by going to a better oil pump. In terms of things
that go wrong, the intake gaskets would leak coolant in the valley if they
were not installed correctly or the RTV at the ends of the intake would leak
oil to the outside. The distributor O-ring would leak oil if the dist was
turned after a year or so. The HO engine is a different beast from the 115HP
stock engines.

I've seen more Iron Dukes with rods out the side of the block than dead
2.8L. By 1983, both had received some changes that made them both
"reasonable". However, I have put 280,000 miles+ on two 2.8L V6's. I let one
break the timing chain intentionally. It basically stopped and bent two
valves. The other got rebuilt because I wanted to do it.

Now if you've confused the 3.0L Buick that came with the Ciera with the 2.8L
Chevy, the 3.0L had it's problems. Probably the biggest is cracked blocks
(in the valley) if they were overheated. They were EXTREMELY unforgiving to
this problem. Second, any loss of oil pressure destroyed the main bearings.
30PSI at idle one moment, 5PSI the next. But other than that, they were and
still are pretty tough motors.

All three, if not abused, not overheated (the 2.8L can handle some pretty
brutal overheating), the oil changed, and maintained were reasonably good by
1983.

Regarding gas mileage, the 2.5L in a Ciera could hit about 28MPG. The 3.0L
about 26MPH, and the 2.8L about 25-27 MPG.

I've owned both V6's and have rebuild several.

With that many miles, hope for the best, but expect the worst.

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
To: DIY list <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 23, 1998 7:14 PM
Subject: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??


>having received a call from my cousin who found a good car for sale (i'm
>in search of one) not too expensive (i plan to take some holiday time in
>vancouver in july),he found a old's ciera 83 having'bout 225 000 KM ( 140
>000 milles,yes the car has lot o'milleage but then,i've got not much money
>to spend on it,but at last,i'm not going to vancouver with him),but now,i
>have a problem arging with mom's chum,he states that the car fuel milleage
>is very low (in the V8 teritory) and the engine is a lot less reliable
>than his 4 banger ( cavalier and sunbird 2.0L ),i want to set the record
>straight,does the cavalier 4 banger is more reliable than the oldsmobile
>2.8 V6 ?????
>
>thanks a lot.
>Alain
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 22:32:10 1998
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Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 22:34:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.3.96.980423213405.137A-100000@main> from "Alain Toussaint" at Apr 23, 98 09:48:41 pm
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> 
> having received a call from my cousin who found a good car for sale (i'm
> in search of one) not too expensive (i plan to take some holiday time in
> vancouver in july),he found a old's ciera 83 having'bout 225 000 KM ( 140
> 000 milles,yes the car has lot o'milleage but then,i've got not much money
> to spend on it,but at last,i'm not going to vancouver with him),but now,i
> have a problem arging with mom's chum,he states that the car fuel milleage
> is very low (in the V8 teritory) and the engine is a lot less reliable
> than his 4 banger ( cavalier and sunbird 2.0L ),i want to set the record
> straight,does the cavalier 4 banger is more reliable than the oldsmobile
> 2.8 V6 ?????

the 2.8 was somewhat of a dog
it is probably almost ready for at least a valve job
Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 22:34:09 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 19:32:34 -0700
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Check out 

http://www.foothill.net/~terryk/X11Z19.HTM 

for info on the Chevy 2.8L V6.

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: DIY list <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 23, 1998 7:27 PM
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??


>
>
>On Thu, 23 Apr 1998, Alain Toussaint wrote:
>
>> than his 4 banger ( cavalier and sunbird 2.0L ),i want to set the record
>> straight,does the cavalier 4 banger is more reliable than the oldsmobile
>> 2.8 V6 ?????
>> 
>In general, the 4 banger is more reliable than the Chevy "high
>maintenance" 2.8 V6. YMMV, of course.
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 22:35:56 1998
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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 22:41:11 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
References: <Pine.LNX.3.96.980423213405.137A-100000@main>
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Alain Toussaint wrote:
> 
> having received a call from my cousin who found a good car for sale (i'm
> in search of one) not too expensive (i plan to take some holiday time in
> vancouver in july),he found a old's ciera 83 having'bout 225 000 KM ( 140
> 000 milles,yes the car has lot o'milleage but then,i've got not much money
> to spend on it,but at last,i'm not going to vancouver with him),but now,i
> have a problem arging with mom's chum,he states that the car fuel milleage
> is very low (in the V8 teritory) and the engine is a lot less reliable
> than his 4 banger ( cavalier and sunbird 2.0L ),i want to set the record
> straight,does the cavalier 4 banger is more reliable than the oldsmobile
> 2.8 V6 ?????
> 
> thanks a lot.
> Alain
The 2.8 tends to be a troublesome engine, but most of the troublemakers
don't make it 225,000. The mileage is not much worse than the 4, if you
drive the 4 as fast as you do the 6, because the 4 is working it's tail
off. If you take it easy, of course the 4 can do a bit better. There are
several 4s, too. The 2 litre is in the same league as the 2.8 as far as
maintenance is concerned. The old "iron duke" 2.5, like the small block
8, just goes and goes. Sometimes you wonder how, for as noisy and rough
as they can get, and still run. This is the same engine used by Mercury
Marine for the 115 inboard (basically the same as a 63/64 Nova/chevyII).
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 22:45:26 1998
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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 22:44:20 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.3.96.980423213405.137A-100000@main>
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>than his 4 banger ( cavalier and sunbird 2.0L ),i want to set the record
>straight,does the cavalier 4 banger is more reliable than the oldsmobile
>2.8 V6 ?????

I'll be honest with you Alain, both engines are "okay".  A 4 cyl in a
cavalier is not too unreasonable because the car is small and light
compared to the Cierra.  A six in the Cierra is almost a must, and 2.8L is
kinda small.  I still don't understand why GM put a small engine into the
Cierra.  Both engines are good in their own right, but the Cierra was a tad
underpowered with the 2.8L In my opinion.  The 4 cyl was more reliable
however from a maintanence point of view... GM had a lot of problems with
certain years of the 2.8L, mostly relating to the electronics from anything
I've read.

Anyhoo...

What makes a big difference is how the driver treated it.  Did he/she stomp
on the gas constantly from standstill?  Was the oil changed regularly?  Was
the transmission fluid checked and changed every 50-60K?

If the V6 has 140K miles on it, more than likely, the car was taken care of
at least to some extent, or it would have been dead about 80K before you
found it.  Is it the original engine?  If so, care was taken in the
maintanence department.

Before you buy it, buy yourself a cheap compression test guage from the
auto store, remove the ignition coil wire, and do a compression test.  If
the compression is a tad low, which it might be because of the miles, make
sure all the cylinders are close to each other in readings.  If one or two
cylinders are way off, then you have a bad valve, a head gasket that's gone
or going, or a ring is broke.  I'd also loosen the oil plug, and drop about
a shots glass worth of oil, look for crud in it.  Jack each front lower
suspension member up one at a time, so the tire is about an inch off the
ground.  Try to move the tire forward and back, and up and down.  This will
give a clue as to the condition of the lower ball joints as well as the tie
rod.  Put the car back down, and pull on the front-wheel-drive axles.  They
shouldn't slip hardly at all.  Tie rod ends and ball joints are not too
expensive (in the 15-20 buck range each), but they can be a pain in the ass
to replace.  Personally, I'd rather have a running engine with a bad tie
rod (or ball joint) than the reverse...

Your investment would only be the $15-20 US compression guage, and
borrowing a jack, and a little strength on your part to see if this cheap
car is cheap because they want to unload it, or cheap because they can't
unload it.

If you need more advice, write to me directly, I'd be happy to suggest
other stuff you can do yourself.  After buying my first car back in 1983 I
learned the hard way, NEVER buy ANY car without a compression gauge (out of
eight cylinders I had three that actually made ANY compession.  A
compression test and offer you so much information, and save you lots of
money by not buying a "good deal" with a blown head gasket.




Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 22:50:46 1998
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I have read the archives and have learned quite a bit from all of your posts.
My area of specialty is in the engine mechanicals and performance minded
engine building. As far as the latter goes, I have discovered that I can't get
the most from an engine by ignoring the ecm/eprom or relying on someone in
another state to send me a generic performance eprom. 
To that end, I am really interested in getting into the programming aspects of
the eprom. Specifically, I would like to be able to create my own eproms. I
have read about MasterTune software. Is this my best bet? If you have
experience with that software could you please relate your experience with it
and how useful it would be? I really don't have a great deal of time or
interest to do my own code breaking. And I don't want to repeat work that has
already been done. Or is there other software that would work better for me?
Ideally, I would like something that I could download the OEM eprom data,
emulate the eprom with my PC while I tweak it, and then burn a new eprom after
optimizing the data for the application. Is such a setup available as a
package? Or, would I have to build it myself? After reading the archives, I
assume that manufacturers don't release information on their eproms as to what
it contains and where it is on the chip. So, is it every man for himself on
code breaking or is there a place to go and get this infromation?

Please e-mail me direct with your comments. Thanks in advance for any insight
you can provide.

Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 23:26:15 1998
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Cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 23:13:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Holley Projection article
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On Thu, 23 Apr 1998 13:45:00 -0400 Thomas Matthews
<Tmatthe1@worldnet.att.net> writes:
>Yes, I'd like a copy... I'm also interested to know how much pressure
>the Holley injectors can take before they lock up, or any other
>detrimental effects take place...

I have no clue how much pressure they'll take.  They have built-in
pressure regulaters, though.  The instructions say to use a 3/8" return
line (I think).

>Also, is there a way to find the stock rating of the injectors by part
>numbers, and do they interchange with GM TB injectors?

P/N        CFM    # Inj    LB/Hr rating
501-1      300      1      90    (Ford & GM step van)
501-2      300      1      90    (Jeep 255 I6)
502-1      670      2      80    (analog, spread bore)
502-2      670      2      80    (analog, square bore)
504-1      900      4      80    (analog, 4bbl)
504-2      700      4      65    (analog, 4bbl)
504-11     900      4      80    (Pro-Jection 4D)
504-12     700      4      60    (Pro-Jection 4D)
504-13     650      4      45    (Pro-Jection 4D)
504-21     900      4      80    (Pro-Jection 4Di)
504-22     700      4      60    (Pro-Jection 4Di)
504-23     650      4      45    (Pro-Jection 4Di)
502-2211   n/a      4      90    (Chevy Big Block Tunnel Ram (two
throttle bodies))

>How are they held in place if I was to change them? 

They're held in place (above the throttle body) with a couple of screws. 
I never had any reason to remove them, but they're supposed to be really
easy to remove.

>TIA,
>Tom
>

BTW, check out www.holley.com

Ray Drouillard

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 23 23:48:30 1998
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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 23:45:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: TBK <terryk@foothill.net>
cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
In-Reply-To: <01bd6f28$ab8161c0$0a0101c0@terryk.foothill.net>
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> The Iron Duke (called a Tech 4 after awhile) had it's moments just like the
> 2.8L V6 (which wasn't available in the Ciera in 1983. Not until 1985. The
> Olds V6 is the Buick V6 3.0L.)

i remind that whe (mom's and dad) got a ciera 85 a while ago (thinks it's
2 or 3 years ago),and whe got a lot of milleage out of it (not MPG,i dont
care much for it as long as it's not less than 15 MPG),the car died at
about 215 000 KM ( eh......13X 000 milles...it's a guess only,i dont have
my calculator near me),the car died because of a melted catalytic
converter and part of the unburned exhaust made it way into the intake
manifold plugging thing there (and talk about no power then,my mother had
to do WOT on the highway for maintaining the pace and not be too far
behind trafic flow,it's just whe where having no clue at what's going on
then)

> I've seen more Iron Dukes with rods out the side of the block than dead
> 2.8L. By 1983, both had received some changes that made them both
> "reasonable". However, I have put 280,000 miles+ on two 2.8L V6's. I let one
> break the timing chain intentionally. It basically stopped and bent two
> valves. The other got rebuilt because I wanted to do it.

not bad,280 000 milles !!!!! (i'm stunned)

> Now if you've confused the 3.0L Buick that came with the Ciera with the 2.8L
> Chevy, the 3.0L had it's problems. Probably the biggest is cracked blocks
> (in the valley) if they were overheated. They were EXTREMELY unforgiving to
> this problem. Second, any loss of oil pressure destroyed the main bearings.
> 30PSI at idle one moment, 5PSI the next. But other than that, they were and
> still are pretty tough motors.

does these motor share part with the 3.8 motor ??

> All three, if not abused, not overheated (the 2.8L can handle some pretty
> brutal overheating), the oil changed, and maintained were reasonably good by
> 1983.
> 
> Regarding gas mileage, the 2.5L in a Ciera could hit about 28MPG. The 3.0L
> about 26MPH, and the 2.8L about 25-27 MPG.

nice milleage,do you think i'll be able to do at least 20 when doing about
75 to 80 MPH on the highway ??

> I've owned both V6's and have rebuild several.
> 
> With that many miles, hope for the best, but expect the worst.

i'll be able to see that tomorow,also,thanks for the web site.

p.s.is the stock suspension be able to cope with 80 MPH on the highway
(read,if the suspension is in relatively good shape).

thanks a lot.
Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 00:44:10 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 21:42:51 -0700
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-----Original Message-----
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
To: TBK <terryk@foothill.net>
Cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 23, 1998 9:19 PM
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??


>> The Iron Duke (called a Tech 4 after awhile) had it's moments just like
the
>> 2.8L V6 (which wasn't available in the Ciera in 1983. Not until 1985. The
>> Olds V6 is the Buick V6 3.0L.)
>
>i remind that whe (mom's and dad) got a ciera 85 a while ago (thinks it's
>2 or 3 years ago),and whe got a lot of milleage out of it (not MPG,i dont
>care much for it as long as it's not less than 15 MPG),the car died at
>about 215 000 KM ( eh......13X 000 milles...it's a guess only,i dont have
>my calculator near me),the car died because of a melted catalytic
>converter and part of the unburned exhaust made it way into the intake
>manifold plugging thing there (and talk about no power then,my mother had
>to do WOT on the highway for maintaining the pace and not be too far
>behind trafic flow,it's just whe where having no clue at what's going on
>then)
>
Cat's can be like that!


>> I've seen more Iron Dukes with rods out the side of the block than dead
>> 2.8L. By 1983, both had received some changes that made them both
>> "reasonable". However, I have put 280,000 miles+ on two 2.8L V6's. I let
one
>> break the timing chain intentionally. It basically stopped and bent two
>> valves. The other got rebuilt because I wanted to do it.
>
>not bad,280 000 milles !!!!! (i'm stunned)
>
I've had others say that, but synth oil and regular changes. And yes, they
were abused (X-11)


>> Now if you've confused the 3.0L Buick that came with the Ciera with the
2.8L
>> Chevy, the 3.0L had it's problems. Probably the biggest is cracked blocks
>> (in the valley) if they were overheated. They were EXTREMELY unforgiving
to
>> this problem. Second, any loss of oil pressure destroyed the main
bearings.
>> 30PSI at idle one moment, 5PSI the next. But other than that, they were
and
>> still are pretty tough motors.
>
>does these motor share part with the 3.8 motor ??
>
yep, same block in that era. Different crank and pistons though. PFI on the
3.8L. 130HP vs 110HP for the 3.0L.

>> All three, if not abused, not overheated (the 2.8L can handle some pretty
>> brutal overheating), the oil changed, and maintained were reasonably good
by
>> 1983.
>>
>> Regarding gas mileage, the 2.5L in a Ciera could hit about 28MPG. The
3.0L
>> about 26MPH, and the 2.8L about 25-27 MPG.
>
>nice milleage,do you think i'll be able to do at least 20 when doing about
>75 to 80 MPH on the highway ??
>
Yes. If the engine is running good. 80 MPH is pushing it, probably.

>> I've owned both V6's and have rebuild several.
>>
>> With that many miles, hope for the best, but expect the worst.
>
>i'll be able to see that tomorow,also,thanks for the web site.
>
>p.s.is the stock suspension be able to cope with 80 MPH on the highway
>(read,if the suspension is in relatively good shape).
>
Sure, just don't turn.

>thanks a lot.
>Alain
>
>
>

I had a 1984 Olds Ciera ES with a 3.0L V6 and 2.53 gears. 105MPH wide open
at 3500 RPM. Got about 22 MPG at that speed. F41 suspension. Handled pretty
dang good for the most part. Could easily out run a Festiva. Not much else.


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 00:54:30 1998
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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 14:53:52 +1000
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Wayne Blair <wayneb@foxboro.com.au>
Subject: Delco ECU Code
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Can any one say :

Wheather the binary code in most Delco Ecu produced from 
Assembler or from a Higher language "C" maybe.

And if you know that which assembler / compiler is it.

thanks



wayne

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 01:29:57 1998
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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 01:27:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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Subject: good address for those who need to rebuild inter. 7.3 diesel
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i found a good address for those who need a rebuid on 6.9 and 7.3
international navistar engine (found on inter. truck and on ford truck)
take a look here:

http://www.warrenengines.com/home.htm

i found it to be a recommendable address !!
Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 01:39:42 1998
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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 01:37:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
In-Reply-To: <01bd6f3b$70395100$0a0101c0@terryk.foothill.net>
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> I've had others say that, but synth oil and regular changes. And yes, they
> were abused (X-11)

a car made to be abused in fact (i did read the entire page,36 pages in
fact).

> yep, same block in that era. Different crank and pistons though. PFI on the
> 3.8L. 130HP vs 110HP for the 3.0L.

i'll know witch motor to put in if the 3.0 fail.

> >p.s.is the stock suspension be able to cope with 80 MPH on the highway
> >(read,if the suspension is in relatively good shape).
> >
> Sure, just don't turn.

and about changing lane (sometime,whe have to change lane fast) or i'm
better putting an upgraded suspension (something between the stock one and
an X11 suspension) ??

> I had a 1984 Olds Ciera ES with a 3.0L V6 and 2.53 gears. 105MPH wide open
> at 3500 RPM. Got about 22 MPG at that speed. F41 suspension. Handled pretty
> dang good for the most part. Could easily out run a Festiva. Not much else.

22 MPG ???? at 105 MPH,whe did worse one time with a taurus 3 liter (MPFI)
going about 95 MPH (from sherbrooke to magog,about 15 to 20 minutes at
that speed if my memory is exact).



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 02:25:44 1998
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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 00:25:38 -0600 (MDT)
From: Matt Beaubien <mbeaubie@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca>
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To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Felpro EFI q's
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Orin,

> > A friend of mine is into turbo Audi's of all sorts, and he would like to
> > know if the new Felpro EFI system can accomodate 5 cylinders. Is there a
> > contact number at Felpro for additonal information?
> 
> For what particular car?  Is he intending to replace a CIS system?

He got a 5 cylinder from a Vanagon and was planning on putting on a 4 valve
head, although he may have abandoned that idea in favour of a 2 valver.  It
has a Garrett T3/T4 turbo and a large intercooler. It's going into a coupe
quattro FWIW. 

> 
> > Also, he's looking at buying an S4 engine which does not have a distributor.
> > What are his options as far as aftermarket systems go (aside from
> > Electamotive...)? Apparantly, installing the stock S4 harness is _very_
> > involved, not to mention the performance limitations of a stock ECM.
> 
> I think he should talk to Ned Ritchie at Intended Acceleration about
> such 'limitations' (360) 754 1411.  In general, there is no need
> to replace the Audi ignition system... and it is more likely to be
> detrimental than to help.

Maybe you misunderstood me. He's looking at buying and engine without the
wiring harness and ECM. He is looking at using an aftermarket ECM. Because
the engine has no distributor in stock form, he needs a unit capable of
distributorless ignition. This is a separate project from the one listed
above.

What sort of involvement do you have with Audi's? If I remember right, you
are making a data logger, correct?

TTYL,


Matt Beaubien
mbeaubie@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 02:36:04 1998
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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 00:23:05 -0600
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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> Daniel,
> 
> >boost, except possibly for turbos and supercharged t-birds.  If your 3.8
> >is the same as the one used in Tauruses (Tauri?) then _definitely_ not.
> 
> The 3.8L V6 engine was used in the mid-sized cars (well, what *I* call
> midsized), T-birds, Cougars, and FWD Continentals.  I thought the Taurus
> had a 3.0 supercharged engine in the SHO and a 3.3L for the naturally
> aspirated version.  Either way, I'm unclear if this engine made it into the
> Taurus platform.

Just finished head gaskets in 88 Taurus w/3.8l.  Not fun. 
Very very not fun.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 03:20:25 1998
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Message-ID: <01BD6FA4.77DAF580.dzorde@soanar.com.au>
From: Dan Zorde <dzorde@soanar.com.au>
To: "'diy efi'" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: New email address
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 17:14:38 +0800
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Hello everyone,

Have a new email address through work (finally).  Using  Microsoft Outlook, so 
if any of my settings seem wrong please tell me as I'm not sure if I have it 
set correctly.  But if anyone receive weird attachments, etc. let me know so I 
can fix it.  I'm currently using UUENCODE and RTF is turned off.

Dan	dzorde@soanar.com.au     (formerly   dzorde@geocities.com.au)



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 03:55:45 1998
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Subject: Re: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 03:58:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <35402FC9.3588D4E3@mcn.net> from "Shannen Durphey" at Apr 24, 98 00:23:05 am
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> 
> > >boost, except possibly for turbos and supercharged t-birds.  If your 3.8
> > >is the same as the one used in Tauruses (Tauri?) then _definitely_ not.
> > 
> > The 3.8L V6 engine was used in the mid-sized cars (well, what *I* call
> > midsized), T-birds, Cougars, and FWD Continentals.  I thought the Taurus
> > had a 3.0 supercharged engine in the SHO and a 3.3L for the naturally
> > aspirated version.  Either way, I'm unclear if this engine made it into the
> > Taurus platform.

sho had 3.0 l in standard
3.2 l in auto car in later years
last eyar 3.4l v8

all Yamaha bullet proof high RPM 
3.0 was tested at 12000 rpm for 6 hours at Ford dyno room
(video is available for this one)
dissassembled and showed no wear
this thing could be tuned to make 500 HP easy at that RPM range
would make a great sleeper transplant for a small car 
(ok, everybody sing 1, 2, 3 Fesss-Teeee-Vaaaa)

the 3.8 is a 302 with 2 cyl chopped off
first appeared around 82 rear drive 
decent power but got about the same milage as a 302

2.3l was a carry over from Pinto days
reliable but slow

> Just finished head gaskets in 88 Taurus w/3.8l.  Not fun. 
> Very very not fun.

would rather poke out my eyes with a stick
Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 04:40:29 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Crank sensor question...
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 09:37:41 +0100
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Sounds sensible to me... now what happens if I reverse the polarity of
my CSH??

>----------
>From: 	Bruce Plecan[SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]
>Sent: 	23 April 1998 15:00
>To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: 	Re: Crank sensor question...
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
>Subject: Crank sensor question...
>>I have found an interesting little mod for my type of car ( Renault
>>5GTTurbo ) which is too simple for words... but I cannot work out why it
>works.
> It has been found that if you swap the wires from the crank sensor, to
>>the ignition module, the car pulls like a train from 3000rpm upwards.
>>The engines used to run out of steam at around 6000rpm, but with the wire
>swap, it just keeps pulling...
>>Anyone got any ideas why this works like this?
>>Rob Humphris
>
>If the pickup up in the dist uses a coil+reluctor then it generates a
>A/C signal.  The module has a specific theshold when it triggers.
>The faster you spin a reluctor in a coil, the greater the voltage, and
>the earlier the signal.  IE in a GM HEI it's a bit over 1.5degrees per
>1,000 rpm.   So depending on how it's wired/triggered you now
>have a rpm sensitive advance or retard.  Hook a timing light to
>a plug wire, and make the switch if the timing retards, then you
>know it's retarding as a function of rpm.
>Bruce      Just bought a larger Cone Shaped Hat, the Palm
>                Impressions are still getting larger in my forehead.
>
>
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 05:19:33 1998
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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 05:16:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020 <clive@problem.tantech.com>
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Subject: Re: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
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> all Yamaha bullet proof high RPM 
> 3.0 was tested at 12000 rpm for 6 hours at Ford dyno room
> (video is available for this one)
> dissassembled and showed no wear
> this thing could be tuned to make 500 HP easy at that RPM range
> would make a great sleeper transplant for a small car 
> (ok, everybody sing 1, 2, 3 Fesss-Teeee-Vaaaa)

where to get this video ??????????????????????????????? i want to show it
to my cousin,i guess that will be an understatement that he'll be stunned
!!!!

Alain



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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 10:39:25 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Gus Cameron <gus@bracken.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
In-Reply-To: <35b2a249.120726218@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
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 <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au>
 <01BD6940.54702120@pjaramaz>
 <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au>
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At 13:34 23/04/98 -0700, you wrote:
>On Thu, 23 Apr 1998 12:28:51 +0100, Gus Cameron <cameroa@sbu.ac.uk>
>wrote:
>
>>Hmm, well, no-one really picked this one up and ran with it.  So.... I took
>>a walk across to the library and Lo! Seek and you shall be rewarded etc.
>>etc.  
>>
>>If you check out 
>>http://www.bracken.co.uk/misc/
>>you will see a figure relating % O2, CO, H2, NOx etc to Lambda.  It helps
>>to explain why the outputs from lambda (O2) sensors are non-linear and also
>>partially explains the differing curves that Garfield was reporting either
>>side of equivalence.
>>
>>Sorry if this was common knowledge already.
>
>Geez, no apology needed on this end, that's stellar stuff you found
>there. Makes me think I might wanna get the book that chart came out of
>too! The Horiba box also has a calibration procedure you can follow if
>you have known concentration O2 (span/model/sample) gas mix (term you
>use apprarently depends on what industry you're working in) with a
>prepared concentration (4% is recommended, but you can manually
>calibrate the box using anything known, between 0-25%).
>
>And Gus, your conjecture on the shape of the O2 curve in that diagram
>explaining the diff. shape on either side of stoich for the sensor IS
>dead on target, cuz the shapes of them curves on either side, EXACTLY
>mimic what you see in the NTK published 5-wire sensor curves in their
>SAE articles. I'd say you've really cleared up a couple of voids in my
>understanding from just that one graph. Nice sluething, dude. We oughta
>send you out with the black bag more often. B)
>
>Gar
>


and John R Bucknell wrote:
>Just for giggles, anyone tell me what the definition of lambda is?  I
>read somewhere that lambda is the excess air factor, i.e. lambda of .98
>is just a tad (2%?) rich.

John, you actually hit the nail dead centre, except 0.98 is weak, not rich.
Lambda is derived from the stoichoimetric air:fuel ratio.  This means that
you have just enough air to burn all the fuel, with no air left over.  i.e.
the fuel and air combine to form CO2 and H2O.  But the amount of air
required to do this depends on the fuel you are burning.  
I can give you the stoichoimetric equation for glucose no probs:  C6H12O6
(glucose) + 6H2O ----> 6CO2 + 6H2O.  i.e. for every one molecule of glucose
you need six molecules of oxygen and you get 6 molecules each of carbon
dioxide and water produced.  Now, the same principle applies to petrol, for
every one molecule of petrol you need a certain number of molecules of
oxygen to burn it completely.  Air is always taken to contain 20.95% oxygen
in case you were wondering, but you must take the air pressure into account
if you are to correctly calculate the number of oxygen molecules per cubic
meter.

Unfortunately petrol (gas?) contains a real complex mix of different type
of hydrocarbon molecules, and not all petrols are the same, so the actual
stoichometric values are harder to calculate and differ from one another
anyway, but are normally in the range 14:1 ---> 15:1, with 14.7:1 most
often being quoted.  These values are based on mass (weight) of air and
fuel, i.e. for every 14.7kg of air you need 1kg of fuel, but the principle
is the same.  For actual calculations see the book referenced at
http://www.bracken.co.uk/misc.

Now Lambda is simply the stoichoimetric A:F ratio divided by the observed
A:F ratio.  i.e. if the stoichoimetric A:F ratio is 14.7:1 and you divide
this by the observed AR ratio of 14.7 you get a lambda of 1.0, sometimes
refered to as equivalence.  
If the observed A:F ratio is 18:1 the lambda is (14.7/18) = 0.82, and the
mixture is weak (too much air).  If the observed A:F ratio is 12:1 the
lambda is (14.7/12) = 1.23, and the mixture is rich (too much fuel).

Now, and this is why I asked my original question, if the definition of
lambda = 1.0 is that all the oxygen is burnt, how can an oxygen sensor tell
you what the lambda is at values greater than 1.0?  You can't get negative
concentrations of oxygen!  The answer is in the graph, lambda is not a true
equivalence ratio: there is always a small amount of oxygen left over.
However, as you approach lambda for the weak side the O2 concn. drops
rapidly, after which it takes on an almost steady value, meaning that the
O2 sensor output is going to be much less sensititive on the rich side than
on the weak side.  Really what you want is a O2 meter to tell you if you
are running weak and a CO meter to tell you how rich you are running (again
see graph).
Interestingly hydrocarbon (HC) concn. does not vary much with lambda, as I
assumed it would.

Gar - the Horiba calibration routine that you refer to is what we do with
the paramagnetic O2 sensors.  In fact I could use a paramagnetic sensor to
calibate the DIY_EGO zirconium O2 sensors.   But do tell, is the curve
linear all the way up to 21% O2?  Can you give me a refernce on those SAE
papers?

byeee,
gus

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From: Gus Cameron <gus@bracken.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
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snip
>I can give you the stoichoimetric equation for glucose no probs:  C6H12O6
>(glucose) + 6H2O ----> 6CO2 + 6H2O.  i.e. for every one molecule of glucose

Whoops! Should really proof these before I hit send!
C6H12O6 (glucose) + 6O2 ----> 6CO2 + 6H2O.  
Sorry,
Gus

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 07:59:16 1998
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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 06:53:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
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-> the 3.8 is a 302 with 2 cyl chopped off

 No, the 3.8 is unique and has no parts (other than wristpins and
lifters) interchangeable with any other motor.
             

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 09:10:32 1998
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Subject: Re: Crank sensor question...
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 09:13:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <c=US%a=_%p=Indigo_Active_Vi%l=CRIANLARICH-980424083741Z-634@crianlarich.indigo-avs.com> from "Robert Humphris" at Apr 24, 98 09:37:41 am
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> 
> Sounds sensible to me... now what happens if I reverse the polarity of
> my CSH??


it will cause an advance (or retard) of your CSHead

Clive 
> 
> >----------
> >From: 	Bruce Plecan[SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]
> >Sent: 	23 April 1998 15:00
> >To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> >Subject: 	Re: Crank sensor question...
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
> >Subject: Crank sensor question...
> >>I have found an interesting little mod for my type of car ( Renault
> >>5GTTurbo ) which is too simple for words... but I cannot work out why it
> >works.
> > It has been found that if you swap the wires from the crank sensor, to
> >>the ignition module, the car pulls like a train from 3000rpm upwards.
> >>The engines used to run out of steam at around 6000rpm, but with the wire
> >swap, it just keeps pulling...
> >>Anyone got any ideas why this works like this?
> >>Rob Humphris
> >
> >If the pickup up in the dist uses a coil+reluctor then it generates a
> >A/C signal.  The module has a specific theshold when it triggers.
> >The faster you spin a reluctor in a coil, the greater the voltage, and
> >the earlier the signal.  IE in a GM HEI it's a bit over 1.5degrees per
> >1,000 rpm.   So depending on how it's wired/triggered you now
> >have a rpm sensitive advance or retard.  Hook a timing light to
> >a plug wire, and make the switch if the timing retards, then you
> >know it's retarding as a function of rpm.
> >Bruce      Just bought a larger Cone Shaped Hat, the Palm
> >                Impressions are still getting larger in my forehead.
> >
> >
> >
> >


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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Crank sensor question...
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 09:30:33 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, April 24, 1998 5:10 AM
Subject: RE: Crank sensor question...


>Sounds sensible to me... now what happens if I reverse the polarity of
>my CSH??


You're sparking will be advanced or retarded,  you'll have to figure
out the timing light hook-up thou....
Cheers
Bruce      Yes, Cone Shaped Hats are polarity sensitive!.  If ya
                get it wrong you won't know if your coming or going!!..
>
>>----------
>>From: Bruce Plecan[SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]
>>Sent: 23 April 1998 15:00
>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>>Subject: Re: Crank sensor question...
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
>>Subject: Crank sensor question...
>>>I have found an interesting little mod for my type of car ( Renault
>>>5GTTurbo ) which is too simple for words... but I cannot work out why it
>>works.
>> It has been found that if you swap the wires from the crank sensor, to
>>>the ignition module, the car pulls like a train from 3000rpm upwards.
>>>The engines used to run out of steam at around 6000rpm, but with the wire
>>swap, it just keeps pulling...
>>>Anyone got any ideas why this works like this?
>>>Rob Humphris
>>
>>If the pickup up in the dist uses a coil+reluctor then it generates a
>>A/C signal.  The module has a specific theshold when it triggers.
>>The faster you spin a reluctor in a coil, the greater the voltage, and
>>the earlier the signal.  IE in a GM HEI it's a bit over 1.5degrees per
>>1,000 rpm.   So depending on how it's wired/triggered you now
>>have a rpm sensitive advance or retard.  Hook a timing light to
>>a plug wire, and make the switch if the timing retards, then you
>>know it's retarding as a function of rpm.
>>Bruce      Just bought a larger Cone Shaped Hat, the Palm
>>                Impressions are still getting larger in my forehead.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>


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Subject: Re: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
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>Just finished head gaskets in 88 Taurus w/3.8l.  Not fun. 
>Very very not fun.

I believe that... I pulled my engine out twice, first to have it balanced &
blueprinted... wasn't fun, and the second time to take the oil pan off and
replace the oil pickup, I chose to pull it so the engine could be turned
upside down.  My Lincoln "lowers" itself when you shut it off, therefore
getting ramps underneath it can be a pain sometimes, in my lovely
overly-pot-holed driveway.

What mileage did your gaskets pop if I might ask?  I have 80K on my engine,
which is running very strong, but I'm thinking its time to do a timing
chain, water pump, head gasket replacement, and take a look inside to see
how good/bad it is.

I also definately have to replace the back motor mount.  Again.  I think
I'm going to make or have made a solid back motor mount.  I lose one or two
a year.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 09:37:30 1998
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To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
In-Reply-To: <m0ySdN7-00013WC@problem.tantech.com>
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>(ok, everybody sing 1, 2, 3 Fesss-Teeee-Vaaaa)

That would be SICK :).  I like you already.

>the 3.8 is a 302 with 2 cyl chopped off

Really, so the front of the two engines are the same? Bolt holes wise?
Interesting possibilitites here if this is the case.

>first appeared around 82 rear drive 
>decent power but got about the same milage as a 302

I'd say much better.  I've never seen a Mustang get 28-29 MPG.  Though I
could be wrong.  True, driving style has a lot to do with it... I don't
play with my Lincoln the same way I would have I had a bright red mustang.

>would rather poke out my eyes with a stick

A rounded stick, or a pointy stick? <smile>


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 09:45:59 1998
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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 09:51:42 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Dave Williams wrote:
> 
> -> the 3.8 is a 302 with 2 cyl chopped off
> 
>  No, the 3.8 is unique and has no parts (other than wristpins and
> lifters) interchangeable with any other motor.
> 
Regardless if the parts fit or not, the 3.8 is, in effect, 2/3 of a 5
litre v8 - optimized for production (in other words, you CAN NOT use off
the shelf parts for a new engine).Unlike GM in years past, you cannot
pull a ford 4, 6, or 8 cyl engine and replace it with one of the others
without changing a lot. GM inline 6, V6, V8 small block, big block, and
iron duke 4 all interchanged. Pontiac/Buick would fit Chev/Olds if you
changed tranny with engine (different bolt pattern). Try that with
Fomoco or Mopar.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 09:48:53 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Holley Projection article
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 09:45:50 -0400
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From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@juno.com>
To: Tmatthe1@worldnet.att.net <Tmatthe1@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thursday, April 23, 1998 11:47 PM
Subject: Re: Holley Projection article

>>Also, is there a way to find the stock rating of the injectors by part
>>numbers, and do they interchange with GM TB injectors?

I have heard that they are a drop in replacement, going either
way, Holley to GM, and GM to Holley.
>
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 10:14:40 1998
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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 08:14:36 -0600 (MDT)
From: Matt Beaubien <mbeaubie@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca>
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To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Tech 4 problems
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Well, with everyone spewing forth Iron Duke / Tech 4 information, I thought
I'd try to get a copule of answers for myself.

I have an '86 Olds Ciera that used for hauling my Civic around to races and
for driving around when my daily driver is down (like right now -- changing
a heater core on a 300ZXT, ugh).

Anyways, I'm going to be selling it this summer and would like to get it
running a bit better. It has 180k miles on it (used engine install at 140k
miles after a rod knock) and it's never really run well after the guy
installed it.

The problem is as follows. Response and power is very poor. It's like the
engine is very lean or the timing very retarded. Especially when cold, shift
recovery is very poor and it seems to drive like it has a weak accelerator
pump (if it was carbed). 

However, once warmed up, at certain speeds, the engine power will suddenly
pickup as if a misfiring cylinder came back to life. It is not misfiring
when this happens though. I don't have a tach but it seems to be RPM
related. It happens at ~25 MPH in first, ~40 MPH in second, and ~60 MPH in
third, and is quite repeatable. 

I've tried swapping the TPS and MAP with no difference. The plugs don't look
too bad either.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Matt Beaubien
mbeaubie@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca
3 x 510
1 x Civic 1200
1 x 300ZXT


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 11:00:10 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 08:55:39 -0700
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someone wrote:

>>2.3l was a carry over from Pinto days
reliable but slow>>

Not quite, and yes, this falls into the 'who cares' category, I know.  The 
2.3L in the Tempo was bored to 2.5L for the Taurus.  Both were 2/3 of the 
old Falcon/Mustang/Maverick/Granada inline pushrod six.  Awful, Awful 
engines.

Mike Jones

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 11:03:43 1998
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Subject: Re: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 11:06:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <354098EE.7934@huron.net> from "Clare Snyder" at Apr 24, 98 09:51:42 am
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> 
> Dave Williams wrote:
> > 
> > -> the 3.8 is a 302 with 2 cyl chopped off
> > 
> >  No, the 3.8 is unique and has no parts (other than wristpins and
> > lifters) interchangeable with any other motor.
> > 
> Regardless if the parts fit or not, the 3.8 is, in effect, 2/3 of a 5
> litre v8 - optimized for production (in other words, you CAN NOT use off
> the shelf parts for a new engine).Unlike GM in years past, you cannot
> pull a ford 4, 6, or 8 cyl engine and replace it with one of the others
> without changing a lot. GM inline 6, V6, V8 small block, big block, and
> iron duke 4 all interchanged. Pontiac/Buick would fit Chev/Olds if you
> changed tranny with engine (different bolt pattern). Try that with
> Fomoco or Mopar.

early rear drive models will interchange with a 302
trans uses same bolt pattern etc.
front basically different but similar brackets etc.

front drive uses funny bolt pattern
on flywhell wnd with little teeny tiny flexplate about 8" round

later 3.8 is quite different using deep thread (anti distortion) head bolts
and other strange and wonderfull stuff

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 11:13:58 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <djewett@snowcrest.net>
To: "Do-It-Yourself Fuel Injection" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Delco Fuel Injection
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 08:15:00 -0700
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Has anyone done any research on the Delco fuel inject..? Also known as DFI.
Seems like it would be simular to a standard TBI setup. The reason I ask is
these setups found on most mid to late 80's Caddi's are VERY common, I see
them on their HT4100 motors, the little 4.1L V8... Any input...

Thanks

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 12:14:28 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Winmail.dat
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 10:09:56 -0700
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Well, I have feeling I'm polluting many of your hard-drives with 
winmail.dat files, for which I'm sorry.  (At least the header sent back to 
myself reports it as an attachment.)  I'm using NT 4.0 and have made sure 
that the 'use Windows rich-text' option is off, have verified that MIME is 
off, and have made sure that ASCII is selected.  There do not seem to be 
any other options in NT to strip it down any further.  I really want to fix 
this -- many of you have been a big help and I don't wish to stretch my 
welcome.  Does anyone know how to eliminate the winmail.dat attachment in 
NT?  If it's not possible, I'll switch e-mail programs...

Mike Jones


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 12:38:38 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 09:39:15 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
Message-ID: <354fbddd.37485546@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
References: <3.0.5.32.19980423122851.007fb100@unix.sbu.ac.uk> <Version.32.19980420232523.00d967b0@mail.wgn.net> <3.0.5.32.19980419203714.0079bc60@mail.qonline.com.au> <35390373.67DC0858@mwt.net> <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au> <01BD6940.54702120@pjaramaz> <3.0.5.32.19980418005125.007a5c90@mail.qonline.com.au> <199804181815.LAA19696@mail.wgn.net> <3.0.5.32.19980423122851.007fb100@unix.sbu.ac.uk> <3.0.5.32.19980424103925.007fe180@unix.sbu.ac.uk>
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On Fri, 24 Apr 1998 10:39:25 +0100, Gus Cameron <gus@bracken.co.uk>
wrote:

>Gar - the Horiba calibration routine that you refer to is what we do with
>the paramagnetic O2 sensors.  In fact I could use a paramagnetic sensor to
>calibate the DIY_EGO zirconium O2 sensors. 

>But do tell, is the curve
>linear all the way up to 21% O2?

Yes, eXcept for the bend around stoich, the two sides are remarkably
fairly flat.

>  Can you give me a refernce on those SAE
>papers?

Instead of responding in private, let's get the reference in the fossil
record once again. This was posted by Frank some time back:
	SAE# 920234 
	"Universal Air-Fuel Ratio Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor and
	Further Applications", Yamada, Yayakawa, Kami, and Kawai
	NGK Spark Plug Co., 1992, 14pp.

Gar


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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 11:42:27 -0500
From: Daniel Ciobota <dciobota@hiwaay.net>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
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Clive Apps Techno-Logicals 416 510 0020 wrote:

> >

[...]

> all Yamaha bullet proof high RPM
> 3.0 was tested at 12000 rpm for 6 hours at Ford dyno room
> (video is available for this one)
> dissassembled and showed no wear
> this thing could be tuned to make 500 HP easy at that RPM range
> would make a great sleeper transplant for a small car
> (ok, everybody sing 1, 2, 3 Fesss-Teeee-Vaaaa)

Someone already dood it.  I saw an article in HotRod or some such back in the early
90's where a guy took the front subframe off a sho taurus and mounted it to a
festiva (with some extensive engine bay/fender mods).  As I remember, the owner
said it was "one scary ride"... bet it was, too.

Daniel



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 13:53:16 1998
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From: "Haigh, Bill" <haigh@alldata.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Winmail.dat
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 10:54:22 -0700
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	>>Does anyone know how to eliminate the winmail.dat attachment
in 
	>>NT?  If it's not possible, I'll switch e-mail programs...


I forwarded your message to a friend of mine (a *very sharp* programmer
for MCI). Here is his reply:

	
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------
	You *MUST* do all of the following to turn off that STUPID
ATTACHMENT:

	   * Turn RTF (Rich Text Format) setting off.
	   * Turn the MIME setting off.
	   * Turn the "Word as Email Editor" setting off. 
	   * Install the "Microsoft Internet Mail Enhancement Patch"! 

	You can get this patch at:
	http://www.microsoft.com/outlook/documents/imep.htm 

	
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------


BILL


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 14:02:16 1998
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Subject: Re: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 14:04:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <3540C0F2.A72DE8E@hiwaay.net> from "Daniel Ciobota" at Apr 24, 98 11:42:27 am
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> 
> > all Yamaha bullet proof high RPM
> > 3.0 was tested at 12000 rpm for 6 hours at Ford dyno room
> > (video is available for this one)
> > dissassembled and showed no wear
> > this thing could be tuned to make 500 HP easy at that RPM range
> > would make a great sleeper transplant for a small car
> > (ok, everybody sing 1, 2, 3 Fesss-Teeee-Vaaaa)
> 
> Someone already dood it.  I saw an article in HotRod or some such back in the early
> 90's where a guy took the front subframe off a sho taurus and mounted it to a
> festiva (with some extensive engine bay/fender mods).  As I remember, the owner
> said it was "one scary ride"... bet it was, too.


called the Shogun
sold as a conversion for a few years
used stock SHO setup 
was pretty peppy
would be better with a 500 SHO motor
Clive 
> 
> Daniel
> 
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 14:12:13 1998
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From: Greg Woods <gwoods@Symtx.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: S?? record format
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 13:12:02 -0500
X-Priority: 3
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>BTW, ya know what a file extension of .S16 means?.   I got some
>bins but with that file extension, and just changing it to .bin doesn't
>seem to work.
>Cheers
>Bruce

Havn't seen anyone answer this question so I'll give it a shot,...
It's been a little while since I messed with microcontrollers/
eeproms but here's what I remember, the S record format is a 
motorola convention, If you look at the data in a text browser 
it looks like Hex bytes with each line starting with an "S".  The 
data could be either machine code from a compiled program or hex data
from a PROM loader/unloader.

Here's a sample:
S123000F323530303030305A3833332E3333333333452D31305A34323934393637323936
0A
S104002F5A72
S105FFFEF80005
S105FFFCF80007
S105FFFAF80009
S123F8008E00FFCE000FBDF8B2BDFB8BCE0017BDF8B2BDFA45BDFB8BCE0025BDF8B2BDFA
34
S123F820459600C68010970016862010970ADE019603C600048F048F24028B807A000A26
50
S123F840F3DF0BDD0DCE10001C00F81C07FF1C093F86058D5286008D45DC0B8D4ADC0D8D
6F

Hope this helps...
-- 
Greg Woods   gwoods@symtx.com   Austin, TX  USA


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 14:31:32 1998
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From: Don Berry <donbe@microsoft.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Winmail.dat
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 11:31:26 -0700
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		Does this message contain the dreaded winmail.dat file? I am
using an Exchange Server and the patch says that it does not apply. I am
also using Word as my editor. If it is still causing a problem, I can get
the answer.

		And the #1 Oxymoron;

1.	Microsoft Works!


		Don Berry



		-----Original Message-----
	>>Does anyone know how to eliminate the winmail.dat attachment in
NT?  If it's not possible, I'll switch e-mail programs...


I forwarded your message to a friend of mine (a *very sharp* programmer
for MCI). Here is his reply:



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 14:58:15 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 14:58:18 -0400
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From: Daniel Ciobota <dciobota@hiwaay.net>
Date: Friday, April 24, 1998 1:20 PM
Subject: Re: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
>Clive Apps Techno-Logicals 416 510 0020 wrote:
>> all Yamaha bullet proof high RPM
>> 3.0 was tested at 12000 rpm for 6 hours at Ford dyno room
>> (video is available for this one)
>> dissassembled and showed no wear
>> this thing could be tuned to make 500 HP easy at that RPM range
>> would make a great sleeper transplant for a small car
>> (ok, everybody sing 1, 2, 3 Fesss-Teeee-Vaaaa)
>
>Someone already dood it.  I saw an article in HotRod or some such back in
the early
>90's where a guy took the front subframe off a sho taurus and mounted it to
a
>festiva (with some extensive engine bay/fender mods).  As I remember, the
owner
>said it was "one scary ride"... bet it was, too.
>
>Daniel
>
I think they called it Shogun, were a couple made, also think
J Leno had one..
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 15:14:34 1998
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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 15:12:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: Don Berry <donbe@microsoft.com>
cc: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Winmail.dat
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no it doesn't include the .dat file,it read good in fact (even have the
same character set as me)
Alain


> 		Does this message contain the dreaded winmail.dat file? I am
> using an Exchange Server and the patch says that it does not apply. I am
> also using Word as my editor. If it is still causing a problem, I can get
> the answer.
> 
> 		And the #1 Oxymoron;
> 
> 1.	Microsoft Works!
> 
> 
> 		Don Berry
> 
> 
> 
> 		-----Original Message-----
> 	>>Does anyone know how to eliminate the winmail.dat attachment in
> NT?  If it's not possible, I'll switch e-mail programs...
> 
> 
> I forwarded your message to a friend of mine (a *very sharp* programmer
> for MCI). Here is his reply:
> 
> 
> 
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 15:48:35 1998
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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 12:46:53 -0700
Subject: RE: S?? record format
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>Here's a sample:
>S123000F323530303030305A3833332E3333333333452D31305A34323934393637323936
>0A
>S104002F5A72
>S105FFFEF80005
>S105FFFCF80007
>S105FFFAF80009
>S123F8008E00FFCE000FBDF8B2BDFB8BCE0017BDF8B2BDFA45BDFB8BCE0025BDF8B2BDFA
>34
>S123F820459600C68010970016862010970ADE019603C600048F048F24028B807A000A26
>50
>S123F840F3DF0BDD0DCE10001C00F81C07FF1C093F86058D5286008D45DC0B8D4ADC0D8D
>6F

By way of explanation, there are three forms of S record formats (that I'm
aware of). There's S1/9, S2/8 and S3/7. The difference between the three is
in the size of the address field: for S1/9 it's 2 bytes, S2/8 is 3 bytes
and S3/7 is 4 bytes. Here's how the format breaks down:

S1	Leadin marking it as S record and the size of the address field
nn	Number of bytes (hex) for the rest of the record - i.e. expect 2*nn
characters and nn-3 data bytes in the rest of record
aaaa	Address for the first data byte in this record
xx	Pairs of ASCII hex digits for each data byte
cc	Last two digits are the twos compliment checksum based on a modulo 256
hex addition of all the bytes in the record including the count and address
fields (i.e. add all the bytes, take the low order two digits and subtract
from FF).

The reason for calling this S1/9 rather than just S1 is that the S9 record
is optional, but if provided it is by convention the last record in the
group and defines the start address of the code that's been downloaded.
Naturally this won't be useful for an S record file for a PROM blower - it
will be ignored if it's provided.

The .S16 extension is probably the S1/9 format as that has the 16 bit
address field (4 digits), it's not the same as .BIN (binary) or .HEX (Intel
hex).
Cheers,
Nick Webb



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 15:49:01 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Delco Fuel Injection
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 15:49:04 -0400
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From: Derek Jewett <djewett@snowcrest.net>
To: Do-It-Yourself Fuel Injection <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, April 24, 1998 11:51 AM
Subject: Delco Fuel Injection


>Has anyone done any research on the Delco fuel inject..? Also known as DFI.
Seems like it would be simular to a standard TBI setup. The reason I ask is
these setups found on most mid to
late 80's Caddi's are VERY common, I see them on their HT4100 motors, the
little 4.1L V8... Any input...
Thanks

The caddie division uses ecms that carry a gm part no ie, like
the 1227730 they used is the same as a Delco AC GM Buick
Olds Pont 1227730.  Caddie has used several of the ones that
we'll be (hopefully) talking about in the 101 series.

DFI is getting to be rather generic.  Accel is using for their name,
there was an outfit in FL that used it.  Then there was another
in MI, so on+off when ya say DFI depending on who your talking
to might be thinking of something other than delco.

What seems to be an accepted way of decribing a ecm here, is
by saying gm 730.  Once ya get the ecms learned it rather easy
since there are less than half a dozen that can be used for most
any application.

747 TBI v-6-8
730 MAP (some MAF) v-6-8 TPI (some DIS)
165 MAF/MAP 4-6-8  (4cyl TBI, others TPI)
148 MAF buick turbo 6+some NA TPI DIS
749 Syclone MAP (some 4 cyl applications)
6870 MAF 6-8
808 Aussie version of 165 used MAP TPI 4-6-8
And then there are some mix and matchs of others.
HTH
Bruce   Been running the Cone Shaped Hat on
             A/C today, and at any given moment don't
             know if I'm comin or going...........


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 17:13:38 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <djewett@snowcrest.net>
To: "Do-It-Yourself Fuel Injection" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Tweaker...& TBI/TPI
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 14:14:41 -0700
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Has anyone seen this Tweaker software bu Mike Pitts... Pretty neat stuff. I
tried emailing Mike Pitts but his email address must have changed, has
anyone from the list asked him if he has any plans of creating a tweaker
for GM TBI/TPI?? I guess he and his associates found the table locations
for the turbo chips, they can probably find the table locations for other
chips!

This is probably an old question but found no mention in the archives

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 17:19:07 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <djewett@snowcrest.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Delco Fuel Injection
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 14:20:10 -0700
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Well heck, I better strap on my cone shaped hat and head for the bone
yard!!! 


PS I've heard the local bone yards are handing out FREE cone shapped hats
with the purchase of any 730 or 747 ECM, check with your local bone yard as
participation may vary...

----------
> From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Delco Fuel Injection
> Date: Friday, April 24, 1998 12:49 PM
> 
> From: Derek Jewett <djewett@snowcrest.net>
> To: Do-It-Yourself Fuel Injection <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Friday, April 24, 1998 11:51 AM
> Subject: Delco Fuel Injection
> 
> 
> >Has anyone done any research on the Delco fuel inject..? Also known as
DFI.
> Seems like it would be simular to a standard TBI setup. The reason I ask
is
> these setups found on most mid to
> late 80's Caddi's are VERY common, I see them on their HT4100 motors, the
> little 4.1L V8... Any input...
> Thanks
> 
> The caddie division uses ecms that carry a gm part no ie, like
> the 1227730 they used is the same as a Delco AC GM Buick
> Olds Pont 1227730.  Caddie has used several of the ones that
> we'll be (hopefully) talking about in the 101 series.
> 
> DFI is getting to be rather generic.  Accel is using for their name,
> there was an outfit in FL that used it.  Then there was another
> in MI, so on+off when ya say DFI depending on who your talking
> to might be thinking of something other than delco.
> 
> What seems to be an accepted way of decribing a ecm here, is
> by saying gm 730.  Once ya get the ecms learned it rather easy
> since there are less than half a dozen that can be used for most
> any application.
> 
> 747 TBI v-6-8
> 730 MAP (some MAF) v-6-8 TPI (some DIS)
> 165 MAF/MAP 4-6-8  (4cyl TBI, others TPI)
> 148 MAF buick turbo 6+some NA TPI DIS
> 749 Syclone MAP (some 4 cyl applications)
> 6870 MAF 6-8
> 808 Aussie version of 165 used MAP TPI 4-6-8
> And then there are some mix and matchs of others.
> HTH
> Bruce   Been running the Cone Shaped Hat on
>              A/C today, and at any given moment don't
>              know if I'm comin or going...........

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 21:48:57 1998
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I'm sorry, what has he got?  Is his software for GM only?
thanks
jw


On Fri, 24 Apr 1998, Derek Jewett wrote:

> Has anyone seen this Tweaker software bu Mike Pitts... Pretty neat stuff. I
> tried emailing Mike Pitts but his email address must have changed, has
> anyone from the list asked him if he has any plans of creating a tweaker
> for GM TBI/TPI?? I guess he and his associates found the table locations
> for the turbo chips, they can probably find the table locations for other
> chips!
> 
> This is probably an old question but found no mention in the archives
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 22:48:34 1998
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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 22:17:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: OTC's ecm system tester
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> Alain Toussaint wrote:
> > 
> > > Here's the list for you unix propeller heads that don't have excel...
> > > :-)
> > 
> > i'll check if it's readable by staroffice ( a Unix office suite also
> > available on win95),if so,does anyone would like an html output of the
> > file ???
> 
> Yuppers.
> 
> Shannen

i've been able to read it in StarOffice and got it to save as html,so
far,it doesn't look good (it's 69 pages long and a page is 25 lines) there
is about 7 or 8 lines blank between statement,anyway,for those who want to
take a look in it,mail me and i'll send it as attachment (i would post it
to the diy list ftp server but i dont think it's ready for prime time).

Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 23:31:26 1998
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From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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Subject: Re: OTC's ecm system tester
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> 
> i've been able to read it in StarOffice and got it to save as html,so
> far,it doesn't look good (it's 69 pages long and a page is 25 lines) there
> is about 7 or 8 lines blank between statement,anyway,for those who want to
> take a look in it,mail me and i'll send it as attachment (i would post it
> to the diy list ftp server but i dont think it's ready for prime time).
> 
> Alain

forget anything about this message,i was looking at the file in a text
browser when i made these comment,it look very good in my word processor.

Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 24 23:42:39 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <djewett@snowcrest.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Cc: "Do-It-Yourself Fuel Injection" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Tweaker...& TBI/TPI
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 20:49:44 -0700
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It's for the Buick GN/Ttype 148 ECM ONLY... for Windows even..

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 02:13:19 1998
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Derek Jewett wrote:
> 
> Has anyone seen this Tweaker software bu Mike Pitts... Pretty neat stuff. I
> tried emailing Mike Pitts but his email address must have changed, has
> anyone from the list asked him if he has any plans of creating a tweaker
> for GM TBI/TPI?? I guess he and his associates found the table locations
> for the turbo chips, they can probably find the table locations for other
> chips!
> 
> This is probably an old question but found no mention in the archives

One of his associates, Scott Mueller, has written a book
which is on the shelf over my computer, Upgrading and
Repairing PCs, which is about 2 1/2" thick.  No average car
guy, by any means.  I also could not find an accurate email
address.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 02:37:52 1998
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References: <3.0.5.32.19980422164224.007a88e0@xephic.dynip.com>
	 <353DA899.7E58F417@mwt.net>
	 <3.0.5.32.19980422164224.007a88e0@xephic.dynip.com>
	 <3.0.5.32.19980422203431.007b4100@xephic.dynip.com>
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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> >Just finished head gaskets in 88 Taurus w/3.8l.  Not fun.
> >Very very not fun.
> 
>snip<

> What mileage did your gaskets pop if I might ask?  I have 80K on my engine,
> which is running very strong, but I'm thinking its time to do a timing
> chain, water pump, head gasket replacement, and take a look inside to see
> how good/bad it is.
> 
> I also definately have to replace the back motor mount.  Again.  I think
> I'm going to make or have made a solid back motor mount.  I lose one or two
> a year.
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Bridgeport, CT 06606
> 
> Homebrew Automotive Website:
> http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
> 
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1989 HMMWV
> 2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
> 
> -
There were over 100k on the Taurus.  I suspect this was the
second set of gaskets in a very short time.  Usually one can
find corrosion or signs of deterioration around a failed
head gasket.  Part of the wire ring surrounding cyl 4 was
pushed out of round, allowing coolant into the chamber, and
the intake and head geskets looked fairly fresh.  I would
guess a lack of clamping force caused the gasket to move.

Buddy at Ford dealership seems to have done many 3.8l head
gaskets.  Might be good preventative maintenance on your
part.  I'd say buy GM, but between 3.8l Buick timing chains,
2.3l head gaskets, 2.5l timing gears, and 3.1l piston
failure you'd be no better off.

I can't be pessimistic. I truly believe that "things" can't
possibly get any worse. ; )

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 03:07:00 1998
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Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 03:03:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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about 6 month ago,there was someone who was from autralia and doing rally
with a car equiped with a 68hc11 or a 68332 (can't remember),that person
sent me a tarball (tar.gz file) of the source of this system,it was really
a simplist system,i would very much like if that person please resend me
the file and some detail about the setup he's using.

thanks a lot.
Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 09:20:43 1998
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		 <353DA899.7E58F417@mwt.net>
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This is very uncommon on Ford (or any other manufacture ) to have two
gasket failures in a short time frame. The rules a Ford dealer ship
mechanic uses before replacing gasket  is (1) always replace head bolts
on aluminum heads (2) have the heads checked out by a good machine shop.

Steve

Shannen Durphey wrote:

> Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> >
> > >Just finished head gaskets in 88 Taurus w/3.8l.  Not fun.
> > >Very very not fun.
> >
> >snip<
>
> > What mileage did your gaskets pop if I might ask?  I have 80K on my
> engine,
> > which is running very strong, but I'm thinking its time to do a
> timing
> > chain, water pump, head gasket replacement, and take a look inside
> to see
> > how good/bad it is.
> >
> > I also definately have to replace the back motor mount.  Again.  I
> think
> > I'm going to make or have made a solid back motor mount.  I lose one
> or two
> > a year.
> >
> > Frederic Breitwieser
> > Bridgeport, CT 06606
> >
> > Homebrew Automotive Website:
> > http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
> >
> > 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> > 1989 HMMWV
> > 2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
> >
> > -
> There were over 100k on the Taurus.  I suspect this was the
> second set of gaskets in a very short time.  Usually one can
> find corrosion or signs of deterioration around a failed
> head gasket.  Part of the wire ring surrounding cyl 4 was
> pushed out of round, allowing coolant into the chamber, and
> the intake and head geskets looked fairly fresh.  I would
> guess a lack of clamping force caused the gasket to move.
>
> Buddy at Ford dealership seems to have done many 3.8l head
> gaskets.  Might be good preventative maintenance on your
> part.  I'd say buy GM, but between 3.8l Buick timing chains,
> 2.3l head gaskets, 2.5l timing gears, and 3.1l piston
> failure you'd be no better off.
>
> I can't be pessimistic. I truly believe that "things" can't
> possibly get any worse. ; )
>
> Shannen




From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 10:12:19 1998
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Steven Gorkowski wrote:
> 
> This is very uncommon on Ford (or any other manufacture ) to have two
> gasket failures in a short time frame. The rules a Ford dealer ship
> mechanic uses before replacing gasket  is (1) always replace head bolts
> on aluminum heads (2) have the heads checked out by a good machine shop.
> 
<snip>
I agree. 

This car was purchased used and had problems from the
beginning. I think someone R+R'ed the head gaskets and
immediately traded it off.  The heads showed no signs of
resurfacing when I removed them. 

As to finding a good machine shop, there's a couple in the
next town, 50 mi from here. They're ok for basic machine
work.  I don't really know how to describe the local place. 
When the garages herre send something out, it usually goes
to him because he's in town.  When I send something of my
own out, it goes out of town. 

Head bolts came with the gasket kit.  Nice surprise.  


Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 10:59:18 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 10:59:23 -0400
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From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
 
>
>Head bolts came with the gasket kit.  Nice surprise.  
>
>Shannen

Gasket Kits, you mean you have to assemble your gaskets?.
Talk about labor intensive....
HOHOHAHA
Cheers
Bruce      Next batch of Cone Shaped Hats with have the
                polarities marked permenately, so there will be
                no excuse for not knowing if your coming or going..


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 13:53:11 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: GME
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 10:51:43 -0700
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Well, after some thought and discussion, I put my GME beta program in the
incoming directory. Mr. CSH has been working on the code stuff and I figured
this program might help.

GME is a C3/P4 eprom editor. It is model specific, but it should help people
get the drift of what is going on. It is not complete. But it does work and
I have gone as far as I can without more input.

The program is currently for the 85 TPI V8/85 MPFI V6 (but not Fiero.
Different beast). I've included two binaries for testing. There is a doc
file (GMEDOC.DOC) included.

Please read the docs, opening screen, play with the program, and report bugs
as indicated at the end of the doc file.

The program can be freely distributed in beta form until release (below
V1.00). After that it's payware. If I ever get that far.

The file is GMER.ZIP.

Some notes:

F1 help does not work yet.

Some area's are not enabled.

There are bugs, but mainly in the windowing code. The roms will work.

Read the opening warning screen. Read it again and again.

I will not work on bugs that are not reported in the recommended format.
Since this version is freeware, there is no reason to avoid telling me your
real name.

I do not work for GM, I do not want to work for GM, and they didn't help me.
So there!

Terry Kelley


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 14:55:13 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Message from CSH, HQ..  PLEASE READ
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 14:53:35 -0400
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If ya haven't been to the incoming are in the last few minutes,
go there now.  Download a copy of gmer.zip.     Do not go
past go, or collect whatever ya normally would collect.

I think a huge Thanks is due TK.....

Thank you TK
Most sincerely
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 16:59:03 1998
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Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 14:46:02 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject: Re: Supercharged Lincoln Continentals
> 
> >
> >Head bolts came with the gasket kit.  Nice surprise.
> >
> >Shannen
> 
> Gasket Kits, you mean you have to assemble your gaskets?.
> Talk about labor intensive....
> HOHOHAHA
> Cheers
> Bruce      Next batch of Cone Shaped Hats with have the
>                 polarities marked permenately, so there will be
>                 no excuse for not knowing if your coming or going..

yup.  It's been a lot harder since they outlawed asbestos. 

Tip #1: A short bungee cord under your CSH keeps it on while
you're assembling your gaskets.

Tip #2: Wearing dark sunglasses with your CSH keeps you in
style while you're welding.

Tip #3: My CSH for work has a base of 4" dia for use as a
handy template for SB Chebby head gaskets.
Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 17:11:47 1998
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Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 15:11:41 MST
From: Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
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OK, I've got an '86 Cimmeron with the 2.8 v-6.  Mechanically, it has been great - 140k miles, still has
good compression, nice even idle, reasonably nimble considering.  Tranny was gone thru (replaced the
lock-up switch - PITA!) and everything looked just fine - shop manager's comment was that it was
probably good for another 100k or so (grain of salt there).  Injectors are clean, fuel system checks good and
NO LEAKS!  I've got one huge problem with it that I hope someone can help with:

It EATS ignition modules.  I've used everything from the dealer's Delco to NAPA to AutoZone/Checker
(never will use another Wells part!).  Computer dump shows no faults.  Anybody got a clue as to what might
cause this?  Replaced coil, position sensor, pickup coil, wires, just about everything.  I'm real happy with
the engine, but this is about to drive me nuts!

Will Honea 
whonea@codenet.net

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 17:38:59 1998
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Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 17:36:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: TBK <terryk@foothill.net>
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Subject: Re: GME
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> The program is currently for the 85 TPI V8/85 MPFI V6 (but not Fiero.
> Different beast). I've included two binaries for testing. There is a doc
> file (GMEDOC.DOC) included.

do you want that i do an html output of your doc file ???

also,do you want to port it to other architectures ???

and if so,with what software do you coded it ???

Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 17:43:54 1998
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From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
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> It EATS ignition modules.  I've used everything from the dealer's Delco to NAPA to AutoZone/Checker
> (never will use another Wells part!).  Computer dump shows no faults.  Anybody got a clue as to what might
> cause this?  Replaced coil, position sensor, pickup coil, wires, just about everything.  I'm real happy with
> the engine, but this is about to drive me nuts!

good chance that the thing is picking up a lot of heat and there's not
much airflow there,you should problably find a better place to put it (if
it's possible).

Alain

> 
> Will Honea 
> whonea@codenet.net
> 
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 18:06:21 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 15:04:58 -0700
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Make sure there is a layer of silicone grease (commonly called pidgeon shit)
over the complete bottom of the module. This will help transfer the heat to
the distributor base. The modules are known to be heat sensitive. If this is
an DIS ignition, ignore me.

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
To: Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
Cc: DIY list <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, April 25, 1998 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??


>> It EATS ignition modules.  I've used everything from the dealer's Delco
to NAPA to AutoZone/Checker
>> (never will use another Wells part!).  Computer dump shows no faults.
Anybody got a clue as to what might
>> cause this?  Replaced coil, position sensor, pickup coil, wires, just
about everything.  I'm real happy with
>> the engine, but this is about to drive me nuts!
>
>good chance that the thing is picking up a lot of heat and there's not
>much airflow there,you should problably find a better place to put it (if
>it's possible).
>
>Alain
>
>>
>> Will Honea
>> whonea@codenet.net
>>
>>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 18:39:08 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
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-----Original Message-----
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
To: Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
Cc: DIY list <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, April 25, 1998 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
>> It EATS ignition modules.  I've used everything from the dealer's Delco
to NAPA to AutoZone/Checker
>> (never will use another Wells part!).  Computer dump shows no faults.
Anybody got a clue as to what might
>> cause this?  Replaced coil, position sensor, pickup coil, wires, just
about everything.  I'm real happy with
>> the engine, but this is about to drive me nuts!
>
>good chance that the thing is picking up a lot of heat and there's not
>much airflow there,you should problably find a better place to put it (if
>it's possible).
>
>Alain
>
>>
>> Will Honea
>> whonea@codenet.net
>>
Look at the bottom of the distributor rotor.  If you see a little speck
about the size of a fly turd, the rotor may have a burn thru spot,
which sends the coil output down the distributor shaft, and
zaps the module as it goes by.
  Also try looking for a rainbow type apprearance on the coil, means
it's been overheated, and may have a thermal short..
Cheers
Bruce     If this is DIS forget the above..


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 18:53:34 1998
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Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
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Will

New HV wires.  clean plugs.  heat transfer goop on the modules.
good grounds.  clean distributor body where the module mounts to get 
good heat transfer.  

good luck

Bob McKnight
Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 22:20:07 1998
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I had e-mailed him a few months back, he told me if I could get a set 
of "cal docs" for my car he would write the software.  Cal docs have 
the whole prom mapped out, they come from GM, he thought there may be 
a bootleg copy available somewhere on the net but I have not found 
it.
Anyone else ever hear of a "Cal Doc"?

> Has anyone seen this Tweaker software bu Mike Pitts... Pretty neat stuff. I
> tried emailing Mike Pitts but his email address must have changed, has
> anyone from the list asked him if he has any plans of creating a tweaker
> for GM TBI/TPI?? I guess he and his associates found the table locations
> for the turbo chips, they can probably find the table locations for other
> chips!
> 
> This is probably an old question but found no mention in the archives
> 
> 
Randy Braun     rbraun@enter.net
91  GTA
82 Firebird

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 23:12:22 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <djewett@snowcrest.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GME
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 20:19:10 -0700
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Thank you thank you thank you.... now where's the TBI version... jk!!!!

Ok Terry you've got bragging rights!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 25 23:39:52 1998
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bruce
for all us dummys .how do you get incoming?
thanks,
jim 

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 00:00:53 1998
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Will Honea wrote:
> 
> OK, I've got an '86 Cimmeron with the 2.8 v-6.  Mechanically, it has been great - 140k miles, still has
> good compression, nice even idle, reasonably nimble considering.  Tranny was gone thru (replaced the
> lock-up switch - PITA!) and everything looked just fine - shop manager's comment was that it was
> probably good for another 100k or so (grain of salt there).  Injectors are clean, fuel system checks good and
> NO LEAKS!  I've got one huge problem with it that I hope someone can help with:
> 
> It EATS ignition modules.  I've used everything from the dealer's Delco to NAPA to AutoZone/Checker
> (never will use another Wells part!).  Computer dump shows no faults.  Anybody got a clue as to what might
> cause this?  Replaced coil, position sensor, pickup coil, wires, just about everything.  I'm real happy with
> the engine, but this is about to drive me nuts!
> 
> Will Honea
> whonea@codenet.net


Put an oscilloscope on the power supply leads to the ognition module.
If you see some spikes or extreme levels of RFI .... there is your
problem.

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 01:08:11 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GME
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 22:06:50 -0700
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Which what TBI. Send me a binary of the rom.

GME's got more to it.

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Jewett <djewett@snowcrest.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, April 25, 1998 8:33 PM
Subject: Re: GME


>Thank you thank you thank you.... now where's the TBI version... jk!!!!
>
>Ok Terry you've got bragging rights!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 01:13:28 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 22:12:11 -0700
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You know, I seem to remember something about a fix kit for alternate spikes.

Good suggestion!

You should check with the dealer too.
-----Original Message-----
From: Shawn Cake <shawnc@shaw.wave.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, April 25, 1998 9:44 PM
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??


>Will Honea wrote:
>>
>> OK, I've got an '86 Cimmeron with the 2.8 v-6.  Mechanically, it has been
great - 140k miles, still has
>> good compression, nice even idle, reasonably nimble considering.  Tranny
was gone thru (replaced the
>> lock-up switch - PITA!) and everything looked just fine - shop manager's
comment was that it was
>> probably good for another 100k or so (grain of salt there).  Injectors
are clean, fuel system checks good and
>> NO LEAKS!  I've got one huge problem with it that I hope someone can help
with:
>>
>> It EATS ignition modules.  I've used everything from the dealer's Delco
to NAPA to AutoZone/Checker
>> (never will use another Wells part!).  Computer dump shows no faults.
Anybody got a clue as to what might
>> cause this?  Replaced coil, position sensor, pickup coil, wires, just
about everything.  I'm real happy with
>> the engine, but this is about to drive me nuts!
>>
>> Will Honea
>> whonea@codenet.net
>
>
>Put an oscilloscope on the power supply leads to the ognition module.
>If you see some spikes or extreme levels of RFI .... there is your
>problem.
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 01:46:28 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: GME LOCATION
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 22:45:06 -0700
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For all everyone...


GME is at 

ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/incoming/GMER.ZIP





From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 01:47:57 1998
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Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 23:34:53 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Subject: Re: Tweaker...& TBI/TPI
References: <199804260220.WAA28442@mail.enter.net>
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rbraun@mail.enter.net wrote:
> 
> I had e-mailed him a few months back, he told me if I could get a set
> of "cal docs" for my car he would write the software.  Cal docs have
> the whole prom mapped out, they come from GM, he thought there may be
> a bootleg copy available somewhere on the net but I have not found
> it.
> Anyone else ever hear of a "Cal Doc"?
> 
> > Has anyone seen this Tweaker software bu Mike Pitts... Pretty neat stuff. I
> > tried emailing Mike Pitts but his email address must have changed, has
> > anyone from the list asked him if he has any plans of creating a tweaker
> > for GM TBI/TPI?? I guess he and his associates found the table locations
> > for the turbo chips, they can probably find the table locations for other
> > chips!
> >
> > This is probably an old question but found no mention in the archives
> >
> >
> Randy Braun     rbraun@enter.net
> 91  GTA
> 82 Firebird
Do you have any idea what this looks like?  If someone ran
across one accidentally, how would they recognize it?

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 02:07:13 1998
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Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 23:54:10 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
References: <01bd70d1$de23b600$0a0101c0@terryk.foothill.net>
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Nothing in the service bulletins.  Doesn't mean there isn't
an updated part no which includes a fix.

Shannen

TBK wrote:
> 
> You know, I seem to remember something about a fix kit for alternate spikes.
> 
> Good suggestion!
> 
> You should check with the dealer too.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shawn Cake <shawnc@shaw.wave.ca>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Saturday, April 25, 1998 9:44 PM
> Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
> 
> >Will Honea wrote:
> >>
> >> OK, I've got an '86 Cimmeron with the 2.8 v-6.  Mechanically, it has been
> great - 140k miles, still has
> >> good compression, nice even idle, reasonably nimble considering.  Tranny
> was gone thru (replaced the
> >> lock-up switch - PITA!) and everything looked just fine - shop manager's
> comment was that it was
> >> probably good for another 100k or so (grain of salt there).  Injectors
> are clean, fuel system checks good and
> >> NO LEAKS!  I've got one huge problem with it that I hope someone can help
> with:
> >>
> >> It EATS ignition modules.  I've used everything from the dealer's Delco
> to NAPA to AutoZone/Checker
> >> (never will use another Wells part!).  Computer dump shows no faults.
> Anybody got a clue as to what might
> >> cause this?  Replaced coil, position sensor, pickup coil, wires, just
> about everything.  I'm real happy with
> >> the engine, but this is about to drive me nuts!
> >>
> >> Will Honea
> >> whonea@codenet.net
> >
> >
> >Put an oscilloscope on the power supply leads to the ognition module.
> >If you see some spikes or extreme levels of RFI .... there is your
> >problem.
> >

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 09:00:34 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Tweaker...& TBI/TPI     Cal Doc
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 09:00:38 -0400
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Subject: Re: Tweaker...& TBI/TPI
>rbraun@mail.enter.net wrote:
>> 
>> I had e-mailed him a few months back, he told me if I could get a set
>> of "cal docs" for my car he would write the software.  Cal docs have
>> the whole prom mapped out, they come from GM, he thought there may be
>> a bootleg copy available somewhere on the net but I have not found
>> it.
>> Anyone else ever hear of a "Cal Doc"?
>>
Would probably look something like the treprom stuff over at the 
GN Ttype Site.
 
>Do you have any idea what this looks like?  If someone ran
>across one accidentally, how would they recognize it?
>
>Shannen
>
It would be really long.  Probably easy to identify once ya started
reading it.  Would probably mention all kinds of "weird stuff"  like
TCC enable coolant temp.  EGR timing corrections,  EGR fuel
corrections, deccleration enleanments,  
  If ya run into something like that immediately copy it, and forward
me a copy, and I'll tell ya if it's worth saving, HOHOHAHA.....
Cheers
Bruce
  


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 10:44:43 1998
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No, unfortunately I do not.  I'm guessing it would be a large text 
file.

 Do you have any idea what this looks like?  If someone ran
> across one accidentally, how would they recognize it?
> 
Randy Braun     rbraun@enter.net
91  GTA
82 Firebird

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 10:50:08 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Ign. modules WAS  GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more re
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My '82 with the Accel/dfi setup has melted 4 ign. mods, two were 
Accel units, melted the sticker right off the top of them, two were 
GM units, I now have a Standard motor products mod. in there with a 
heat sink under the mod on the bottom of the distributor.
Suspected spikes from alternator, did the o-scope thing and found 
nothing.

> >>
> >> It EATS ignition modules.  I've used everything from the dealer's Delco
> to NAPA to AutoZone/Checker
> >> (never will use another Wells part!).  Computer dump shows no faults.
> Anybody got a clue as to what might
> >> cause this?  Replaced coil, position sensor, pickup coil, wires, just
> about everything.  I'm real happy with
> >> the engine, but this is about to drive me nuts!
> >>
> >> Will Honea
> >> whonea@codenet.net
> >
> >
> >Put an oscilloscope on the power supply leads to the ignition module.
> >If you see some spikes or extreme levels of RFI .... there is your
> >problem.
> >
> 
> 
> 
Randy Braun     rbraun@enter.net
91  GTA
82 Firebird

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 11:25:54 1998
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Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 08:26:20 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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Participating in the current flurry of information postings, I've put
three ECM+PROM disassemblies up on my web page.  These are raw,
uncommented disassemblies.  They are the result of mostly mechanical
(i.e. computer) processing.  However, all the data tables/locations are
formatted in a sensible manner.

The real 'feature' is that for every instruction, the 6801 register
contents are listed in a comment field.  They are shown as if they were
the source operand of a LDAA (or LDX) instruction.  The "N register" is
really the N flag.  The listed contents are the values _before_ the
instruction executes.  If the contents are unknown, or there were too
many possible values, this is indicated with a ? character.  If a
register is not listed, then it is not used in this or a subsequent
instruction (until it gets loaded with a fresh value.)  Subroutines that
don't modify a particular register are a slight exception to this rule -
the register might be used by the caller.

These disassemblies have been run back through an assembler, and they
assembled to the correct ROM image.  I'm actually using a 680x0
assembler with macros handling the 6800/68HC11 mnemonics.  I've had to
change the syntax slightly - it isn't exactly Motorola 68xx standard.

One of the disassemblies is for the 1227747 truck TBI ECM.  The others
are two variants for the 1226867 2.0 L4 TBI ECM.  Here's the URL:

  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/disasm.html

Paraphrasing from Terry Kelley:
I don't work for GM, I don't want to work for GM, and GM didn't help me.

               unsigned long BinToBCD(unsigned long i) {unsigned long t;
Ludis Langens     return i ? (t = BinToBCD(i >> 1), (t << 1) + (i & 1) + 
ludis@cruzers.com            (t + 858993459 >> 2 & 572662306) * 3) : 0;}


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 11:59:15 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 12:05:51 -0400
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I love it, How do I get a version for my '91 GTA,  Terry forgot his 
e-mail address, he requests bug reports, but I see no way to contact 
him.

I'm well versed in Calmap programming so I should be able to help him 
do beta testing of his program.
Randy Braun     rbraun@enter.net
91  GTA
82 Firebird

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 13:08:40 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <djewett@snowcrest.net>
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Does anyone have a STOCK ROM BIN image of the 747 ECM... 89-90 range to
send to TBK..? I do not yet have a 747 ECM

Thanks

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 13:59:34 1998
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From: gervais@rtrman.engr.sgi.com (Joe Gervais)
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Subject: LT1 16159278 ECM Pinouts ?
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I'm trying to get a LT1 running in my 1961 corvette, and have had several
rounds of PROMs that have had VATS disabled that really didn't. I'm now running
a 93 Camaro PROM, but don't know which pin on the ECM needs the 30hz signal. I
have the helm manual for the donor car, a 93 Corvette, but as many of you know,
it is more challenging, since it's VATS exchange requires a password exchange
over the serial interface between the ECM and CCM to enable the injectors,
henve my backing off to the f-body code.

If anyone out there has the 93 f-body ECM signal table and could email me with
the pin the 30hz signal is expected on, I'd appreciate it.

Joe

-- 
_________________________________________________________________________
Joe Gervais                   gervais@sgi.com
Product Manager               (650) 933-7479 voice
High Performance Networking   (650) 964-0811 fax
Silicon Graphics              www.sgi.com

2011 North Shoreline Blvd, Mail Stop 08L-855, Mountain View, CA 94043-1389

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 14:44:09 1998
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From: "H. J. Zivnak" <bztruck@email.msn.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 11:43:10 -0700
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Another good source of spikes is the A/C clutch. Look for a shorted clamping
diode (should be taped to the clutch harness.
-----Original Message-----
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, April 26, 1998 12:07 AM
Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??


>Nothing in the service bulletins.  Doesn't mean there isn't
>an updated part no which includes a fix.
>
>Shannen
>
>TBK wrote:
>>
>> You know, I seem to remember something about a fix kit for alternate
spikes.
>>
>> Good suggestion!
>>
>> You should check with the dealer too.
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Shawn Cake <shawnc@shaw.wave.ca>
>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>> Date: Saturday, April 25, 1998 9:44 PM
>> Subject: Re: GM 2.8 V6 vs 2.0 4 banger,witch one is more reliable ??
>>
>> >Will Honea wrote:
>> >>
>> >> OK, I've got an '86 Cimmeron with the 2.8 v-6.  Mechanically, it has
been
>> great - 140k miles, still has
>> >> good compression, nice even idle, reasonably nimble considering.
Tranny
>> was gone thru (replaced the
>> >> lock-up switch - PITA!) and everything looked just fine - shop
manager's
>> comment was that it was
>> >> probably good for another 100k or so (grain of salt there).  Injectors
>> are clean, fuel system checks good and
>> >> NO LEAKS!  I've got one huge problem with it that I hope someone can
help
>> with:
>> >>
>> >> It EATS ignition modules.  I've used everything from the dealer's
Delco
>> to NAPA to AutoZone/Checker
>> >> (never will use another Wells part!).  Computer dump shows no faults.
>> Anybody got a clue as to what might
>> >> cause this?  Replaced coil, position sensor, pickup coil, wires, just
>> about everything.  I'm real happy with
>> >> the engine, but this is about to drive me nuts!
>> >>
>> >> Will Honea
>> >> whonea@codenet.net
>> >
>> >
>> >Put an oscilloscope on the power supply leads to the ognition module.
>> >If you see some spikes or extreme levels of RFI .... there is your
>> >problem.
>> >




From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 14:55:55 1998
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To: Gregory_Tellone@sandata.com, fsj-list@unix.off-road.com, fsj@digest.net,
        diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 12:09:11 -0400
Subject: Re: [FSJ-List] Output of distributer's magnetic pickup
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From: cosmic.ray@juno.com (Raymond C Drouillard)
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I'm sending this to the list because someone else might be interested in
this info.

The advantage of the Howell system is that they use a standard GM
computer, so you can get a replacement at your local parts store or
junkyard.  Both seem to use standard sensors and stuff like that. 
According to an article I read, the Howell and Holley systems use the
same throttle body.

The main advantage to the Holley systems is that you can program them
yourself.

If you are planning on installing the fuel injection system on to your
engine and plan on leaving it alone, the Howell system will work fine. 
You tell them what you have, and what modifications you have made, and
they burn a PROM for you.  If you make any changes (new manifold, bumpier
cam, headers, or whatever), you tell them what you did and they burn you
a new PROM - for a price ($100.00, I believe).  What they do is to
calculate the (theoretically) what your fuel map should be, and burn the
PROM based on that.  I understand that it is pretty accurate.

With the Holley system, you have lots of room for tweaking.  Also, if you
buy something off-the-wall, like a Wieland manifold or custom headers,
you can program it to suit.  If you port the heads, you can change the
program on the Holley, but you would have to describe what you did for
the Howell system.  You program it by making changes and looking at how
the performance changes, rather than calculating some theoretical map.

You can program any of the systems with five controls (low jet, idle
trim, main jet, hith-rpm jet, accel pump, and choke).  This will allow
you to set up your engine for economy, performance, or anywhere in
between.  If you go with Holley Pro-Jection 4Di, you control the fuel
tables directly.  This allows you to set the cruise part of the map for
economy, and set the wide-open-throttle portion for performance.  Also,
you can control spark advance - if you hook it up right.  I'll give you
more details on that when I finish that part.

Ray Drouillard



On Sat, 25 Apr 1998 23:33:25 -0400 Gregory_Tellone@sandata.com writes:
>
>Hey Ray,
>
>I'm going to buy the TBI fuel injection on Monday..for my 89 Gw.. I'm
>looking at one made by Howell
>http://www.howell-efi.com/tbikits.html and I'm looking at two by 
>Holley
>http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/FuelInj/Comp/504-23.html         
>or
>http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/FuelInj/Comp/504-22.html
>
>Which one you think is better for street/4wd use.. or if you know of a
>better one..
>Both of these will fit on an Edlebrock performer 4bbl manifold.
>
>Thanks!
>
>
>
>
>To:   Gregory Tellone/Sandata
>cc:
>Subject:  Re: [FSJ-List] Output of distributer's magnetic pickup
>
>
>
>
>
>On Tue, 14 Apr 1998 11:17:03 -0400 Gregory_Tellone@sandata.com writes:
>>
>>Hey Ray,
>>
>>Wanted to know if you put the 4Di in yet.. and how you like it.. I 
>saw a
>>good write up on it in Peterson's 4wd.. How much did you get the 
>setup
>for?
>>You had to get a new manifold also.. right? what did you get for 
>that?
>>
>>Thanks!
>
>I have had the 4Di system installed for quite some time.  I had the
>engine rebuilt last September and ran it with the stock carb (and an
>adapter plate that my brother turned out for me on the NC machine) 
>'till
>January.  When I had it rebuilt, I had them bump up the compression 
>and
>install an RV cam.  I also supplied them with an Edelbrock Performer
>manifold.
>
>I put the 4Di system in January, but couldn't get it to talk to the
>computer.  I found that it cruises just fine without being programmed,
>however.  The O2 sensor corrects the mixture after a few tenths of a
>second.
>
>I think I paid about $1300 for the system from Summit Racing.  Of 
>course,
>there are other exterraneous expenses, such as the installation of the 
>O2
>sensor boss.  Also, the laptop I bought was around $400.00.
>
>I kept up a running commentary on the new FSJ list as I was tuning the
>system (fsj@digest.net).  I sent a summary to the other FSJ list
>(fsj-list@unix.off-road.com), and Doc put it in the tech section of 
>one
>of the FSJ lists.
>
>I cross-posted the question to three different lists.  Which list are 
>you
>subscribed to?  Do you need more info about where to read about the
>installation and tuning of the system?  Eventually, I am going to send
>all of the text and some pictures that I took to John Meister so that 
>he
>can format them into an HTML file and put them on his web site.
>
>By the way, my Jeep is still "work in progress".  So far, I have:
>AMC 360
>Holley Pro-Jection 4Di
>Edelbrock Performer manifold
>RV cam
>3" exhaust system
>Engine Guard pre-luber
>30X9.5 mud/snow tires
>
>Ray Drouillard
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
>
>
>
>
>

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 15:32:57 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GME program
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 12:31:40 -0700
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My email is terryk@foothill.net

-----Original Message-----
From: rbraun@mail.enter.net <rbraun@mail.enter.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, April 26, 1998 9:39 AM
Subject: GME program


I love it, How do I get a version for my '91 GTA,  Terry forgot his 
e-mail address, he requests bug reports, but I see no way to contact 
him.

I'm well versed in Calmap programming so I should be able to help him 
do beta testing of his program.
Randy Braun     rbraun@enter.net
91  GTA
82 Firebird



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 18:04:55 1998
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From: "Pete Datcuk" <pdatcuk@snip.net>
To: "EFI List" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Northstar ECM
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 18:05:09 -0500
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  I am hoping someone can help me.  I am working on swapping a Caddy
Northstar from a '95 Eldorado into a Fiero.  I have the factory service
manuals for the engine, and from what I have gathered, the ECM communicates
with the other computers/modules(i.e. ABS, antislip, etc) through a common
serial link.  Since I am not including these various modules, I am wondering
how the ECM is going to react by them not being there.  Am I going to need
to provide some signal to the computer to fool it, or is there a way to
deactivate the serial connection.

Thanks,
Pete Datcuk
Mechanical Engineer
Sewell, NJ
'87 Fiero, some day to be Northstar'ed :-)
'67 Jeep Commando, to be risen from the dead ;-)


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 19:52:45 1998
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Is this OBD-2 or something newer. I understand that there is a jumper (or
something) spec'd in obd2 that disables the communications- supposedly for test
purposes.

Anybody know more???

Pete Datcuk wrote:

>   I am hoping someone can help me.  I am working on swapping a Caddy
> Northstar from a '95 Eldorado into a Fiero.  I have the factory service
> manuals for the engine, and from what I have gathered, the ECM communicates
> with the other computers/modules(i.e. ABS, antislip, etc) through a common
> serial link.  Since I am not including these various modules, I am wondering
> how the ECM is going to react by them not being there.  Am I going to need
> to provide some signal to the computer to fool it, or is there a way to
> deactivate the serial connection.
>
> Thanks,
> Pete Datcuk
> Mechanical Engineer
> Sewell, NJ
> '87 Fiero, some day to be Northstar'ed :-)
> '67 Jeep Commando, to be risen from the dead ;-)




From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 21:57:27 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Northstar ECM
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 21:57:33 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Datcuk <pdatcuk@snip.net>
To: EFI List <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, April 26, 1998 6:51 PM
Subject: Northstar ECM


>  I am hoping someone can help me.  I am working on swapping a Caddy
>Northstar from a '95 Eldorado into a Fiero.  I have the factory service
>manuals for the engine, and from what I have gathered, the ECM communicates
>with the other computers/modules(i.e. ABS, antislip, etc) through a common
>serial link.  Since I am not including these various modules, I am
wondering
>how the ECM is going to react by them not being there.  Am I going to need
>to provide some signal to the computer to fool it, or is there a way to
>deactivate the serial connection.
>
>Thanks,
>Pete Datcuk
>Mechanical Engineer
>Sewell, NJ
>'87 Fiero, some day to be Northstar'ed :-)
>'67 Jeep Commando, to be risen from the dead ;-)
>
As it was explained to me (pulling pin on fire extingusher), it's
called a bus line.  When one device wanted to talk to another,
it would ground the line to interupt, and then transmit what it
needed to say.  The devices didn't "expect" to hear each other
just talk to each other, when needed..
  Course this was a vocational class explaination for motor heads.
Cheers
Bruce     Was mowing the yard today, and found a car..  Funny
               things can happen when ya wear your Cone Shaped
               Hat when doing chores..


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 26 23:11:06 1998
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Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 20:07:32 -0700
From: gervais@rtrman.engr.sgi.com (Joe Gervais)
Message-Id: <9804262007.ZM8073@rtrman.engr.sgi.com>
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To: ba-f-body@f-body.org, diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: LT1 Runs Finally - No more DTC 46
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Thanks to the help on these two lists, I got the 93 LT1 motor in my 61 Vette
running today. The prom images with no vats apparently didn't have VATS
disabled properly, because the injectors didn't stay running.

Knowing that the Fbody has an easily defeatable VATS, I got the proper input
for the ECM from Scot on the DIY_EFI list, and built a $5 timer circuit using a
555 IC to bypass the thing. I should have done this a couple of months ago, but
oh well.

Now the race is on. There's the GG Summer Get Together in 4 weeks. I may need a
body dropapaloosa at my house in a couple of weeks to make the show. The car
will certainly be on the road by July.

I taped the motor, so I'll have an audio file up on reality in a day or two.
 I'll have to see how it is with tailpipes, but right now, the bare chassis
with the straight 2.5" exhaust and 3 chamber Flowmasters is bordering on too
loud, although it is a good tone. Given I didn't roll the chassis into the
driveway, and had the sound bouncing off the back wall of the garage didn't
help. My kids came running from the park a good 1/8 mile away, so it's got
audible punch.

VATS bypass details

For 93 FBody, ECM 16159278, terminal A19 on the ECM needs a 30 Hz signal, 50%
duty cycle.

For 94 and possibly 95 with PCM 16188051 terminal A25 on the PCM needs a 50 Hz
signal.

Alan wrote "In my 94 Helms, it sez terminal A25 on PCM. The name of the wire
going to this terminal is 229 DK BLU - it may be on your harness. If 40-60Hz is
not present on this terminal, engine will stall after 1.7 seconds.", which is
exactly what was happening on my motor.

-- 
_________________________________________________________________________
Joe Gervais                   gervais@sgi.com
Product Manager               (650) 933-7479 voice
High Performance Networking   (650) 964-0811 fax
Silicon Graphics              www.sgi.com

2011 North Shoreline Blvd, Mail Stop 08L-855, Mountain View, CA 94043-1389

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 00:23:24 1998
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Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 23:25:01 -0400
From: "Wm. Perry Kincy, CLU, ChFC" <kincy@kincy.com>
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Subject: Re: [ba] LT1 Runs Finally - No more DTC 46
References: <9804262007.ZM8073@rtrman.engr.sgi.com>
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Name the weekend for the Body Installapalooza as soon as possible so schedules can
be reworked.

Perry

Joe Gervais wrote:

> Thanks to the help on these two lists, I got the 93 LT1 motor in my 61 Vette
> running today. The prom images with no vats apparently didn't have VATS
> disabled properly, because the injectors didn't stay running.
>
> Knowing that the Fbody has an easily defeatable VATS, I got the proper input
> for the ECM from Scot on the DIY_EFI list, and built a $5 timer circuit using a
> 555 IC to bypass the thing. I should have done this a couple of months ago, but
> oh well.
>
> Now the race is on. There's the GG Summer Get Together in 4 weeks. I may need a
> body dropapaloosa at my house in a couple of weeks to make the show. The car
> will certainly be on the road by July.
>
> I taped the motor, so I'll have an audio file up on reality in a day or two.
>  I'll have to see how it is with tailpipes, but right now, the bare chassis
> with the straight 2.5" exhaust and 3 chamber Flowmasters is bordering on too
> loud, although it is a good tone. Given I didn't roll the chassis into the
> driveway, and had the sound bouncing off the back wall of the garage didn't
> help. My kids came running from the park a good 1/8 mile away, so it's got
> audible punch.
>
> VATS bypass details
>
> For 93 FBody, ECM 16159278, terminal A19 on the ECM needs a 30 Hz signal, 50%
> duty cycle.
>
> For 94 and possibly 95 with PCM 16188051 terminal A25 on the PCM needs a 50 Hz
> signal.
>
> Alan wrote "In my 94 Helms, it sez terminal A25 on PCM. The name of the wire
> going to this terminal is 229 DK BLU - it may be on your harness. If 40-60Hz is
> not present on this terminal, engine will stall after 1.7 seconds.", which is
> exactly what was happening on my motor.
>
> --
> _________________________________________________________________________
> Joe Gervais                   gervais@sgi.com
> Product Manager               (650) 933-7479 voice
> High Performance Networking   (650) 964-0811 fax
> Silicon Graphics              www.sgi.com
>
> 2011 North Shoreline Blvd, Mail Stop 08L-855, Mountain View, CA 94043-1389




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 01:17:08 1998
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Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 22:16:34 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Robert Yorke <yorker@deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: GM Bins/ecm Q's
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Here's a site that will provide some quite interesting information on GM
Australian ECMs and what the Australians are doing about reprogramming 'em,
on the fly.  They've advised me that they'd like very much to enter the
American market also...:

		<http://white.aljan.com.au/~bradhost/>

FWIW


At 11:12 AM 4/17/1998 -0400, you wrote:
>On the flash prom pcm's is that all 1024 file lenght stuff?.  Would
>any one happen to have a bin of one that I could see?.
>
>Also, if anyone has any 256, and 512 file lenght bins I'd like to see
>some of them.  I'm working on figuring out how the aussie ecms
>compare to ours.  It would also be neat if you included the
>application (engine size/no. cyl/tranny type/year/model, and best
>yet a Broadcast code).
>
>No worries mate
>Bruce  
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 09:26:01 1998
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On Sun, 26 Apr 1998, Derek Jewett wrote:
> Does anyone have a STOCK ROM BIN image of the 747 ECM... 89-90 range to
> send to TBK..? I do not yet have a 747 ECM


I've got the eprom and my programmer should be here this week.
I'd be glad to post the contents as soon as I get the other pieces
of the puzzle.

-greg


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 09:32:09 1998
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Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 09:38:57 -0400
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how about an '89 Astro van, 4.3L V6?

> Does anyone have a STOCK ROM BIN image of the 747 ECM... 89-90 range to
> send to TBK..? I do not yet have a 747 ECM
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
Randy Braun     rbraun@enter.net
91  GTA
82 Firebird

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 09:56:28 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Programming 101
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 09:56:35 -0400
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If you have not read the past 101 installments, please do so
now.  This is for educational purposes.  Changing the calibrations
of your ecm may violate the laws in your area.  If you attempt
recalibrations, serious engine damage may result.  Please 
read past posts about tune up procedures, when attempting
recalibrations.  These matters should be done under adult
supervision.  Again this is in general for gm ecms, and most 
specically the 1227747..

Were going to talk/write/read some today on the matter of 
malfunctions flags.  They are the self diagnostics the ecm
does, and then reports to you when in diagnostic mode.  
When you short the ALDL two diagnostic pins together the
SES light flashes a code at you, 12 plus what ever the 
malfunction is, if any.  If you need to understand the codes,
there are numerous articles, and books covering that issue,
and should be used for understanding say a code 21.  The
purpose of this article is turning on+off these reports of self
diagnostics.  Notice I say reports.  Some of the self diagnostics
will still run, but not be reported as an error, or result in the
ecm going into limp home mode.  That has also been covered
in the archives, about which ones run, or not..

  Now, these malfunction flag addresses use a combination 
of Hex, Dec, and Binary..  In brief these are different ways
of counting, and the following is a conversion for them

Dec     Hex     Bin
0          0          0000
1          1          0001
2          2          0010
3          3          0011
4          4          0100
5          5          0101
6          6          0110
7          7          0111
8          8          1000
9          9          1001
10        A         1010
11        B         1011
12        C         1100
13        D         1101
14        E         1110
15       F          1111

Now again refering to prior post addresses in a hex
editor of a prom look something like
           00   01   02   03   04   05
0000  AA  03   FF   FA  FD  02

This is a very abbreviated corner of on the columns across
the top would read to 0F, and the rows would go from 0000
to 0FFF.  Now we could read those addresses as binary,
the  0002  would look like 1111  1111
       0003  would be           1111  1100
       0004  would be           1111  1101
Now if we wanted to say 1 represented yes, and 0 would be
no, we could tell the computer that..
Now say we had 24 malfunction codes.  We could list them
as   12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24,25, and so on..

So address  0002   could mean malfunction codes
  12, 13, 14, 15,        16, 17, 18, 19
and then the 1+0's could mean yes and no.  So looking at 
FF meaning 1111    1111
we would have
12   13   14   15       16   17   18   19
yes yes  yes  yes     yes  yes  yes  yes
meaning all the malfuntion flags at 0002 are enabled, and working.
If we go to 0003 we get            1111                      1100
that would correspond to    20 21 22 23          24 25 26 27
and have the meaning of  yes yes yes yes     yes yes no no
So malfunction flags 20,21,22,23,24,25, would be enabled
and 26+27 disabled..
  Now, on some ecms they use different codes, and skip
numbers, so it gets to be challenging to line up which codes
are used, and which ones are enable, or disabled.  But, in the
747 they are at 050D-050F, and 3 words (addresses) long.
On other ecms they may be 3-4-or even 5 words long, and
probably longer than that on some of the newer stuff.  But,
on the 747 all ya haveta do is try turning them on+off, and
all of sudden by using the SES/scanner, and causing a 
known malfunction you can figure out which 0+1 enables,
disables, what malfunction flag...
  Again please don't quote the whole posting in reply, just
what is is doubt or wrong, or you have a difference in a 
opinion with.
  I am not a EE, ME, or anything like that, so the above is
how I understand things, and make no guarantee that
it is absolutely correct it has worked for me, and your
results, may vary.
  If you have any comments please e-mail me, and I'll
review, what ya say, and see if in fact I did error (again)..
Bruce      nacelp@bright.net
This message originated at Cone Shaped Hat World
Headquarters

If you have not downloaded Terry's gmer.zip, and
what Ludis posted yesterday, you need to read yesterday's
postings in the archives, and do that now.  If you have any
information about the 747 tables/switches, I'd really appreciate
hearing about them, or would you post that information.
If ya haveta read the above a couple hundred times to get
it don't feel bad, I did it more than that to get it......


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 10:25:34 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <djewett@snowcrest.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GME
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 07:32:48 -0700
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Dat outta work!!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 12:20:44 1998
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Subject: Power supply
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Does anyone have any design of a power supply that can power a PC
motherboard from the 12 volt battery? I would like to experiment with
running an EFI system from an in car PC.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 14:24:07 1998
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Subject: Re: Power supply
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 11:24:33 -0700
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I have been working on something simular to what you're doing... and so far
all I have thought of is using an LM317 voltage regulator that regulates
the voltage, and using a 7805 regulator to split off a  +5v supply... But
you still need a -5v supply along with ground to make it work..

----------
> From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
> To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Power supply
> Date: Monday, April 27, 1998 9:20 AM
> 
> Does anyone have any design of a power supply that can power a PC
> motherboard from the 12 volt battery? I would like to experiment with
> running an EFI system from an in car PC.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 15:26:20 1998
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From: "BUTLER, Tom" <TEBUTLER@mccain.ca>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Power supply
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 16:27:07 -0300
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I believe it would be simplest...and probably cheaper (maybe more
reliable and safer) to purchase a 12VDC powered 120VAC inverter with
enough capacity to run your PC.  It would probably run less than 100
bucks.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Derek Jewett [SMTP:djewett@snowcrest.net]
> Sent:	Monday, April 27, 1998 3:25 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: Power supply
> 
> I have been working on something simular to what you're doing... and
> so far
> all I have thought of is using an LM317 voltage regulator that
> regulates
> the voltage, and using a 7805 regulator to split off a  +5v supply...
> But
> you still need a -5v supply along with ground to make it work..
> 
> ----------
> > From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
> > To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > Subject: Power supply
> > Date: Monday, April 27, 1998 9:20 AM
> > 
> > Does anyone have any design of a power supply that can power a PC
> > motherboard from the 12 volt battery? I would like to experiment
> with
> > running an EFI system from an in car PC.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 16:17:29 1998
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From: "Dave J. Andruczyk" <dave@scarlet.buffalostate.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Power supply
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> Does anyone have any design of a power supply that can power a PC
> motherboard from the 12 volt battery? I would like to experiment with
> running an EFI system from an in car PC.

well the round about way is to use a 12V to 120 V inverter then plug your
'puter into that.   only prob is that some cheapo inverters output a rough
waveform that is not so friendly to computer switching power supplies..

dave



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 16:55:39 1998
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Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 13:58:36 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: Power supply
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Here we go again...

First off, bad idea, read the archives, some will dissagree. A really easy
way,
however, is to get a $100 power inverter that most electronic houses have.
That
will do the job if you are using a regular chassis type of supply. If you are
going to strip out the motherboard, you will need to come up with +5, +-12 for
the serial ports. Not too dificult, but some hard drives, etc need 12v clean,
and that is difficult to get with a simple car regulator. Again, for the
amount
of time, and money you will spend, just go out and get one of the $99 dollar
68hc11/805x boards and the free compilers and go to town. I also have seen
some
v30/40 8086 boards that are in the low 100 dollar range that use all the pc
programming tools and run off of 5v only. Check the electronic mags and the
web
for them, a ton of them out their.

Sandy

At 02:20 AM 4/28/98 +1000, you wrote:
>Does anyone have any design of a power supply that can power a PC
>motherboard from the 12 volt battery? I would like to experiment with
>running an EFI system from an in car PC.
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 18:26:57 1998
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From: "Pete Datcuk" <pdatcuk@snip.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Northstar ECM
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 18:27:18 -0500
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 No it is not OBD2.  Unfortunately I have the service manuals packed away
right now (moving), but when I get them out I will copy the factory
explanation.

Thanks,
Pete Datcuk
Mechanical Engineer
Sewell, NJ
'87 Fiero, some day to be Northstar'ed :-)
Quite a few credits away from that cone shaped hat....



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Webb
> Sent: Sunday, April 26, 1998 6:54 PM
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Northstar ECM
>
>
> Is this OBD-2 or something newer. I understand that there is a jumper (or
> something) spec'd in obd2 that disables the communications-
> supposedly for test
> purposes.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 19:20:02 1998
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I picked up a 9 to 14v to Pc Power Switcher supply ~ 50 watts or so for
around $50.00 or so, has PC connectors on it plug and play . If you want
more information I'll dig up . It will run a PC and a floppy drive  a
low power HD . I'm also running VGA color LCD screen with video card and
keypad decoder board that replaces standard keyboard. Hope this is what
you are looking for.

Steve

Danny Barrett wrote:

> Does anyone have any design of a power supply that can power a PC
> motherboard from the 12 volt battery? I would like to experiment with
> running an EFI system from an in car PC.




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 19:42:11 1998
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Power supply
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BD7287.7BAC9020
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Some of the larger semiconductor/electronics supply shops carry small =
black box power inverters. Usually about the size of a pack of =
cigarettes they accept 12V and supply +/- 5, 9, 12, 15 etc depending on =
configuration. They are usually quite well filtered, if not a couple of =
caps and chokes.......

In aus about $50-100 for a decent current version.

Otherwise, a 12->240 inverter, but these can be very noisy and the added =
weight of the inverter and PC power supply.

Peter

----------
From: 	Danny Barrett
Sent: 	Tuesday, 28 April 1998 2:20
To: 	DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Power supply

Does anyone have any design of a power supply that can power a PC
motherboard from the 12 volt battery? I would like to experiment with
running an EFI system from an in car PC.



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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 19:49:29 1998
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From: "Raymond Brantley" <351w@airmail.net>
To: <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Emulator
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 18:44:00 -0500
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Hello everyone , I have a brand new never been used EEC Emulator and
software for sale. The unit is made by RaceLogic
http://www.racelogic.co.uk/ all the details and a demo of the software
are located at their web site. I am asking 1700.00 quite a bit cheaper
than the going price. Let me know...........


Raymond Brantley


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 20:01:13 1998
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Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 20:01:01 -0400
From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: Re: Power supply
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Where did you get it? I'm looking for something similar, but I need it
for a laptop I got w/o a battery. If there is a way of doing it cheaper
than a $100 inverter feeding the AC adapter to the laptop, I'd
appreciate it. Could I just find the PC bat voltage, and use one of
Radioshacks 12V power adapters and wire that to the bat terminals? TIA!

Andris

-- 
*********Skulte Performance Designs---WWW.SKULTE.COM**********
      Your third and fourth generation f-body specialists
******89 IROC M5 305TPI---13.5@104.1--320 hp/475 ft-lbs*******

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 20:10:53 1998
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Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 18:41:34 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: RE: Power supply
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>I believe it would be simplest...and probably cheaper (maybe more
>reliable and safer) to purchase a 12VDC powered 120VAC inverter with
>enough capacity to run your PC.  It would probably run less than 100
>bucks.

Yes, this is by far the easiest solution, however the final rendition of
your PC-based ECM will require you to duct-tape this converter to the
firewall at some point :)

I have begun designing a switching power supply, much like the PC power
supply, to provide the +/- 5V, +/- 12V outputs.  I chose a switching design
for several reasons - linear devices (78xx and LM317T, etc) can generate a
lot of heat.  Heat sucks no matter how you look at it.  In addition, linear
power supplies operate by shunting the "excess" to ground, hence the heat.
This is a rather inefficient way to regulate power, however it does work
very well, can't argue with that.  I'm very slow at these things due to
being involved in a few zillion (okay, I exhaggerated, a few million)
projects at the moment, so feel free to design in parallel, and I'd be
happy to share what I've done so far.  I've basically leached a design from
a Radio Shack book, which I breadboarded "as-is" and got satisfactory
output.  My design is similar, just with much higher current capabilities.
I'm also trying to build in under/over voltage protection, so as long as
the input range is 9V thru 20V, the outputs will remain at their exected
voltage, just varying the intake current.  This allows the ECM to have the
right voltage no matter how many lights, starters, or electric motors are
going.

A little known fact, is *most* 486 and "weaker" system boards do not need
the negative power leads for anything other than the serial ports.  If you
don't need serial, well, you can get around this by playing with the "good
power" lead on the power supply.  I forget if this is grounded, or attached
to the 5V line through a diode - its been a while since I've experimented
in this fashion... but its doable.

Obviously, disabling your serial ports also disables an easy way of
communicating with your embedded PC ECM.

Anyway, sorry for the long post.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 21:33:06 1998
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From: Chris Rhodin <chris@imageio.com>
To: "'diy_efi'" <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Power Supply
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 18:27:36 -0700
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There is a laptop power supply available from Marlin P. Jones, stock number 4786-PS $14.95.  They can be reached at 800-652-6733.  The supply provides +5@3.5A, +12@1.1A, -12@.040A, -26@.040A (LCD bias), -5@.040A.  It's a very small unit without an enclosure.

Being a laptop supply it has 2 power inputs; an 18 volt external input for charging the battery and the 11-16 volt input that is normally connected to the battery.  Ideally you would like it to operate from as little as 7 volts to cover the voltage drop when cranking.  Since it can't do this you may need to add a battery and a couple of diodes to keep it going when the system voltage is low.  A feature that it does have is logic level on-off control, this combined with an external battery would allow you to software control when the computer powered off.

Chris Rhodin


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 21:42:11 1998
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Subject: Re: Power supply
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If you are looking for a cheap low current negative power supply.. the
company MAXIM have all kinds of switch-mode chips for building negative
supplies (-5V, -12V) - some can deliver up to 2 amps.. All you need is a
positive supply a little higher, inductor and a few resistors + Caps...
Take a look at their website..   ( http://www.maxim.com  -  I think?? )
Ohh, yah the best of all is that they give free samples.. no questions
asked..

Michael Sorensen.
 

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 21:42:11 1998
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If you are looking for a cheap low current negative power supply.. the
company MAXIM have all kinds of switch-mode chips for building negative
supplies (-5V, -12V) - some can deliver up to 2 amps.. All you need is a
positive supply a little higher, inductor and a few resistors + Caps...
Take a look at their website..   ( http://www.maxim.com  -  I think?? )
Ohh, yah the best of all is that they give free samples.. no questions
asked..

Michael Sorensen.
 

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 22:00:24 1998
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Subject: Injector pulse processing
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I am building a 68HC11A8 MPU to allow me to modify the injector pulse from
the ECU before it reaches the injector, Can anyone help be with the
circuitry I need to convert the pulse from the ECU into a suitable signal
for a 68HC11 input, I also need to be able to drive the injector from an
output on the 68HC11.

any ideas would be appreciated.
          Wayne Macdonald



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 22:03:52 1998
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Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 22:07:57 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
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Danny Barrett wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have any design of a power supply that can power a PC
> motherboard from the 12 volt battery? I would like to experiment with
> running an EFI system from an in car PC.

For starters, get a "stat-power" inverter, and convert 12VDC to 115AC,
letting a stocl power supply provide the +/- 5 and 12 required.
If it works out, you can custom design something later.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
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Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 22:05:16 1998
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Good, what are we talking about!

-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Jewett <djewett@snowcrest.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, April 27, 1998 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: GME


>Dat outta work!!!!
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 27 23:03:20 1998
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From: James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca>
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Subject: looking for LinderTech
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I'm looking for a Jeff (I think this is his first name) Linder (I hope 
this is his last name).  He operates an injector cleaning and flow testing 
facility.  I need some O-rings and those plastic end caps.  I hope I'm 
remembering the right guy, any help would be appreciated.  
thanks everybody
jw


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Look at the EFI332 FTP sight, the I/O board schematics should help out. To
drive an injector you have a bunch of options depending on if the injector
is a
saturated type (most std cars are) or the Peak and Hold type. Lots of good
stuff up on the FTP site. You will need a postscript viewer to get at most of
them. A really easy way to drive injectors is to use one of the smarter power
devices, ie, the Cherry Semiconductor CS45X for Peak and Hold, Or some of the
International rectifier parts, ie, IRF6210 which can be used to drive up to 5
amp loads safely. Don't forget a flyback diode on injector drivers, again, see
the FTP sight and start downloading.

Sandy



At 11:58 AM 4/28/98 +1000, you wrote:
>
>I am building a 68HC11A8 MPU to allow me to modify the injector pulse from
>the ECU before it reaches the injector, Can anyone help be with the
>circuitry I need to convert the pulse from the ECU into a suitable signal
>for a 68HC11 input, I also need to be able to drive the injector from an
>output on the 68HC11.
>
>any ideas would be appreciated.
>          Wayne Macdonald
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 00:18:47 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <djewett@snowcrest.net>
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A BIN image from a stock TBI setup...747

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 01:12:24 1998
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In a message dated 98-04-27 23:14:21 EDT, you write:

<< 'm looking for a Jeff (I think this is his first name) Linder (I hope 
 this is his last name).  He operates an injector cleaning and flow testing 
 facility.  I need some O-rings and those plastic end caps.  I hope I'm 
 remembering the right guy, any help would be appreciated.  
 thanks everybody
 jw
  >>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 03:02:30 1998
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Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 03:00:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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Subject: computer in car (for FI)
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i found a great web site where it list a computer who operate on 5 volts
only,here's an excerpt:

 Quite soon, I found the Advantech PCM-5862 'biscuit PC'. This board
   puts an entire Pentium PC (including: 2 72-pin SIMM sockets, Socket7
   (to 200Mhz), 10-base-T Ethernet, 16-bit audio, 2xUSB, EIDE, Floppy,
   4xSerial, Parallel, PCI slot, PC/104 slot, SVGA with monitor and LCD
   drive) into the footprint of a 5.25" disk drive - and best of all,
   runs from a single +5v supply. I found an importer, found out the
   price (urk, not cheap - I paid 293+VAT from UCS in the UK), screamed a
   bit, then bought it anyway: it's still cheaper than an autochanger...

here's the address of the page where i found the thing:

http://www.cryton.demon.co.uk/mp3mobile/

the page talk about an MP3 sound system running onto linux.

have good reading.
Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 04:06:30 1998
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From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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> http://www.cryton.demon.co.uk/mp3mobile/
> 
> the page talk about an MP3 sound system running onto linux.

anyone here considering making a FI system with a PC should take a visit
there,there still a lot of information that will apply in your system even
without talking about linux (which frankly doesn't have much text
there),it's worth a visit (10 on a rate of 10).

Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 04:58:40 1998
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Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 02:45:34 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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James Weiler wrote:
> 
> I'm looking for a Jeff (I think this is his first name) Linder (I hope
> this is his last name).  He operates an injector cleaning and flow testing
> facility.  I need some O-rings and those plastic end caps.  I hope I'm
> remembering the right guy, any help would be appreciated.
> thanks everybody
> jw

Scott Linder <lindross@inetdirect.net>
Jim Linder
the fuel injector " guru"
Doug Garriot
the fuel injector " wizzard"
317-487-9460

Try these.
Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 08:40:05 1998
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Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> James Weiler wrote:
> >
> > I'm looking for a Jeff (I think this is his first name) Linder (I hope
> > this is his last name).  He operates an injector cleaning and flow testing
> > facility.  I need some O-rings and those plastic end caps.  I hope I'm
> > remembering the right guy, any help would be appreciated.
> > thanks everybody
> > jw
> 
> Scott Linder <lindross@inetdirect.net>
> Jim Linder
> the fuel injector " guru"
> Doug Garriot
> the fuel injector " wizzard"
> 317-487-9460
> 
> Try these.
> Shannen
I must have been pretty tired last night. I forgot to
mention that last time I needed a set of chimneys I bought
them at NAPA.  
Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 09:52:52 1998
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Check out:

http://sura1.jlab.org/~bowling/pwmeasure.html

for an example on how to condition a fuel injector signal to TTL, and
see Sandy's response on how to convert TTL to a fuel injector level
signal.

Keep us updated on your progress!!

Steven Ciciora

------------------------------

From: Wayne.MacDonald@zurich.com.au
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 11:58:43 +1000
Subject: Injector pulse processing

I am building a 68HC11A8 MPU to allow me to modify the injector pulse
from
the ECU before it reaches the injector, Can anyone help be with the
circuitry I need to convert the pulse from the ECU into a suitable
signal
for a 68HC11 input, I also need to be able to drive the injector from an
output on the 68HC11.

any ideas would be appreciated.
          Wayne Macdonald

------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 10:25:26 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
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G'day to all the Aussies out there.
Does anyone know anything about putting the EFI 3.3L VK Commodore motor into
a VC Commodore? Does anyone have any idea how much it should cost to do?
Also, does anyone know of an insurance company that has "third party, with
fire and theft" that will let a 21 year old have extractors (ie. the ones on
the VK engine - AAMI (who I am with at the moment) does not, and I would
like to keep the same type of insurance policy, if possible). Does anyone
know how to make the VC Commodore more aerodynamic without having expensive
body kits? I'm told that the air flow separates from the car at the rear
edge of the roof. How can this be fixed?


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 18:08:18 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 08:08:30 +1000
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BD7346.0014A5A0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

G'Day,

VK 3.3 into the VC would be very straight forward, although I'd suggest =
getting the entire fuel system from the VK (i.e fuel tank + pump, hi =
pressure lines etc). The EFI is controled by a pretty crapppy by todays =
standards analog computer. You might want to get a cheap aftermarket =
proper EFI computer such as a Microtec Digi (about $650 Aus). VK EFI had =
extractors standard.

Try Shannons for insurance.

As for Aerodynamics, the VB-K where good for their time but poor by =
todays standards. Try Freedon or SSV (in Sydney for a body kit)

Peter

----------
From: 	Danny Barrett
Sent: 	Wednesday, April 29, 1998 12:25 AM
To: 	DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.

G'day to all the Aussies out there.
Does anyone know anything about putting the EFI 3.3L VK Commodore motor =
into
a VC Commodore? Does anyone have any idea how much it should cost to do?
Also, does anyone know of an insurance company that has "third party, =
with
fire and theft" that will let a 21 year old have extractors (ie. the =
ones on
the VK engine - AAMI (who I am with at the moment) does not, and I would
like to keep the same type of insurance policy, if possible). Does =
anyone
know how to make the VC Commodore more aerodynamic without having =
expensive
body kits? I'm told that the air flow separates from the car at the rear
edge of the roof. How can this be fixed?



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------ =_NextPart_000_01BD7346.0014A5A0--



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 18:54:08 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'DIY_EFI'" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Supercharged 3800
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 08:52:54 +1000
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Hi all,

Q regrading S/C 3800.

In Aus thay're fitted in Holdens. Drove one on the weekend in a LWB luxo barge Statesman and was extremely surprised by the grunt as well as the linear power delivery. 

Now, wanted to force induct my own earlier 3800, questions I have is if I mount the S/C between the engine and throttle body (with the MAP sensor on the throttle body), can I get away with running a 1 bar/atmo MAP sensor as the MAP would never see boost. 

My only concern is the MAP may be subject to too much vacuum under hi rev/lo TPS. 

Would this cause a problem?

Any comments suggestions?

Anyone Stateside know the price of a factory S/C for a 3800 - a local importer here has a new one but wants $1800. I can buy a brand new complete engine from Holden for approx $5000, which makes the $1800 for a bare S/C seem a little high :-(




From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 19:14:34 1998
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        "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: address of switcher Re: Power supply
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The power supply  is ACE-865VA   INPUT 8 - 16VDC   +5V= 6A , +12V= 2.0A
, -5V = .3A , -12V =.5A  Did find the company that sells this Industrial
Computer Source 1-800-523-2320 or www.indcompsrc.com . They make a
higher watt unit but very expensive supply. $200 or so. The only fair
price part they sell as far as I could see . Very well built supply.

Steve

Frederic Breitwieser wrote:

> >keypad decoder board that replaces standard keyboard. Hope this is
> what
> >you are looking for.
>
> Hello Steve,
>
> its EXACTLY what i'm looking for.  If you get a bunch of requests, I'd
>
> appreciate being included on the information distribution.
>
> Thanks!  Might save me the aggrevation of re-inventing the wheel here.
>
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
> Homebrew Automotive Website:
> http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1989 HMMWV
> 2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>
> -




From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 19:40:34 1998
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From: "Steve Baldwin" <steveb@kcbbs.gen.nz>
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Subject: Re: Automotive Applications Handbook for 67F687 and 67F6612
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Does anyone know if this stuff became available ?
It seems to have never made it to the ftp site and I didn't get a 
reply from David when I emailed him directly.

> > I just finished scanning the Automotive Applications Handbook for 67F687 and
> > 67F6612.
> > Where do I put the collections of files?
> > David Edwards

Steve.

======================================================
Steve Baldwin                Electronic Product Design
TLA Microsystems Ltd         Microcontroller Specialists
PO Box 15-680, New Lynn      http://www.tla.co.nz
Auckland, New Zealand        ph  +64 9 820-2221
email: steveb@tla.co.nz      fax +64 9 820-1929
======================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 20:29:03 1998
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I had occasion to get interested in the '687 a couple months ago. Info was no
problem, but when I tried to get ahold of a chip, I found that NO ONE could get even
one...

If that's not the case, I'd like to know. Plenty of literature available, just no
hdwr.

Steve Baldwin wrote:

> Does anyone know if this stuff became available ?
> It seems to have never made it to the ftp site and I didn't get a
> reply from David when I emailed him directly.
>
> > > I just finished scanning the Automotive Applications Handbook for 67F687 and
> > > 67F6612.
> > > Where do I put the collections of files?
> > > David Edwards
>
> Steve.
>
> ======================================================
> Steve Baldwin                Electronic Product Design
> TLA Microsystems Ltd         Microcontroller Specialists
> PO Box 15-680, New Lynn      http://www.tla.co.nz
> Auckland, New Zealand        ph  +64 9 820-2221
> email: steveb@tla.co.nz      fax +64 9 820-1929
> ======================================================




From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 21:05:40 1998
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Message-ID: <01BD735D.EC02C840.dzorde@soanar.com.au>
From: Dan Zorde <dzorde@soanar.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 10:59:45 +0800
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Danny,

Just drop in a 5.0L VN/VP much better and Shannons won't even ask any questions 
(join a car club and they'll let you have race insurance as well for not a 
great deal more).  As for licensing, not a problem as the VC came standard with 
a 5.0L.  The VK was a pretty crap attempt at pollution control, but if you want 
to go this way throw the heads and air pump away and replace with red motor 
heads if possible.

If interested I have a red motor for sale, 179 with 4 speed (XU-1 close ratio), 
motor built for racing (but was never raced at the track), 10K genuine road km 
since rebuild (used to drive it to work everyday).  Fully race prepped heads, 
etc, etc.

Dan	dzorde@soanar.com.au

-----Original Message-----
From:	Peter Jaramaz [SMTP:pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au]
Sent:	Wednesday, 29 April, 1998 6:09 AM
To:	'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'
Subject:	RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.

G'Day,

VK 3.3 into the VC would be very straight forward, although I'd suggest getting 
the entire fuel system from the VK (i.e fuel tank + pump, hi pressure lines 
etc). The EFI is controled by a pretty crapppy by todays standards analog 
computer. You might want to get a cheap aftermarket proper EFI computer such as 
a Microtec Digi (about $650 Aus). VK EFI had extractors standard.

Try Shannons for insurance.

As for Aerodynamics, the VB-K where good for their time but poor by todays 
standards. Try Freedon or SSV (in Sydney for a body kit)

Peter

----------
From: 	Danny Barrett
Sent: 	Wednesday, April 29, 1998 12:25 AM
To: 	DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.

G'day to all the Aussies out there.
Does anyone know anything about putting the EFI 3.3L VK Commodore motor into
a VC Commodore? Does anyone have any idea how much it should cost to do?
Also, does anyone know of an insurance company that has "third party, with
fire and theft" that will let a 21 year old have extractors (ie. the ones on
the VK engine - AAMI (who I am with at the moment) does not, and I would
like to keep the same type of insurance policy, if possible). Does anyone
know how to make the VC Commodore more aerodynamic without having expensive
body kits? I'm told that the air flow separates from the car at the rear
edge of the roof. How can this be fixed?




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`
end


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 21:10:10 1998
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Message-ID: <01BD735E.6A9C7340.dzorde@soanar.com.au>
From: Dan Zorde <dzorde@soanar.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Supercharged 3800
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 11:03:17 +0800
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Your biggest problem would be the internals of the engine, I'm sure someone (a 
while back) said the internals were much stronger.  It's not just the standard 
3800 with a S/C bolted on.

Dan	dzorde@soanar.com.au

-----Original Message-----
From:	Peter Jaramaz [SMTP:pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au]
Sent:	Wednesday, 29 April, 1998 6:53 AM
To:	'DIY_EFI'
Subject:	Supercharged 3800

Hi all,

Q regrading S/C 3800.

In Aus thay're fitted in Holdens. Drove one on the weekend in a LWB luxo barge 
Statesman and was extremely surprised by the grunt as well as the linear power 
delivery.

Now, wanted to force induct my own earlier 3800, questions I have is if I mount 
the S/C between the engine and throttle body (with the MAP sensor on the 
throttle body), can I get away with running a 1 bar/atmo MAP sensor as the MAP 
would never see boost. 

My only concern is the MAP may be subject to too much vacuum under hi rev/lo 
TPS.

Would this cause a problem?

Any comments suggestions?

Anyone Stateside know the price of a factory S/C for a 3800 - a local importer 
here has a new one but wants $1800. I can buy a brand new complete engine from 
Holden for approx $5000, which makes the $1800 for a bare S/C seem a little 
high :-(



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 21:38:00 1998
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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 11:38:14 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Steve Lamb <lambs@HOTBLK.dsto.defence.gov.au>
Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
Sender: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

>G'day to all the Aussies out there.
>Does anyone know anything about putting the EFI 3.3L VK Commodore motor into
>a VC Commodore? Does anyone have any idea how much it should cost to do?
>Also, does anyone know of an insurance company that has "third party, with
>fire and theft" that will let a 21 year old have extractors (ie. the ones on
>the VK engine - AAMI (who I am with at the moment) does not, and I would
>like to keep the same type of insurance policy, if possible). Does anyone
>know how to make the VC Commodore more aerodynamic without having expensive
>body kits? I'm told that the air flow separates from the car at the rear
>edge of the roof. How can this be fixed?

Be simpler and cheaper to just bolt on the VK EFI gear to your existing
engine, I suspect.  Certainly I know someone who did this with an LJ
Torana, BUT he used a Haltech ECU to run the VK hardware.  This is the only
way to go if you plan on any engine mods as the VK uses a version of the
Bosch L-Jet system (analogue) which is not particularly suited to
'modification', although there are things that can be done.  I've seen
complete VK EFI systems advertised recently for around $700 or so, but
should be able to do better than that.  A Haltech F9 (fuel only) costs
about $1100, but for $1400 you could get a Wolf 3D which would probably be
better (fuel and ign).

Try Shannons or ring a few brokers for modified vehicle insurance.  Also
CAMS offers mod. veh. insurance through QBE, but you have to be a member of
an affiliated club.  Costs about $200 pa for TPO, but there is an option
for fire and theft (at extra cost, of course !!).

How _do_  you make a brick more aerodynamic...........   ;-)

Steve Lamb
Department of Defence, DSTO
Aeronautical and Maritime Research Laboratory
506 Lorimer Street
Fishermans Bend  VIC 3207 Australia

Tel: +61 3 9626 7525
Fax: +61 3 9626 7089

IZCC #180



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 22:32:38 1998
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From: grantg@iname.com
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Just checked on that...Crank is the same both non S/C and S/C, rods are different and more expensive !!, pistons for obvious reasons, and heads....but on saying that the later 3.8's (VR) are not known for problems...seen a couple with run B/E's and also with run Cam bearings, but am told this is an issue with poor quality oils, so guess a mild boost would be fine...the VS engines actually have shorter rods, which should be worse for side thrust on pistons hence more friction, maybe making the earlier engine more suitable, also a point worth remembering is the late engine is about 20mm shorter in deck height, so the late blower won't fit an early engine I shouldn't think

Cheers 

Grant



 ---- you wrote: 
> Your biggest problem would be the internals of the engine, I'm sure someone (a 
> while back) said the internals were much stronger.  It's not just the standard 
> 3800 with a S/C bolted on.
> 
> Dan	dzorde@soanar.com.au
> 



------------------------------------------------------
Get free personalized email at http://four11.iname.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 22:43:25 1998
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Message-ID: <01BD736B.978DF600.dzorde@soanar.com.au>
From: Dan Zorde <dzorde@soanar.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:37:36 +0800
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You don't, which is why you just add more power and accept the extra fuel bill.

Dan	dzorde@soanar.com.au

-----Original Message-----
From:	Steve Lamb [SMTP:lambs@HOTBLK.dsto.defence.gov.au]
Sent:	Wednesday, 29 April, 1998 9:38 AM
To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:	Re: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.


How _do_  you make a brick more aerodynamic...........   ;-)

Steve Lamb
Department of Defence, DSTO
Aeronautical and Maritime Research Laboratory
506 Lorimer Street
Fishermans Bend  VIC 3207 Australia

Tel: +61 3 9626 7525
Fax: +61 3 9626 7089

IZCC #180


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 23:15:54 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <djewett@snowcrest.net>
To: "Do-it-Yourself Fuel Injection" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: DIY'ers EPROM Burner
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 20:23:08 -0700
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Ok the 2732 update has been added to the DIY'ers EPROM burner. Please note
that the 2732 hack has not been tested as of yet, but the unit works fine
for burning 27128/256/512,etc... It is a hobbyists grade plan so the plans
are a little akward, if you have trouble reading the hand drawn schematics
let me know I have a well laid out schemaic I can save as a metafile and
send you a copy. This project was originaly intended for burning video game
cartriges and turned into a more "generic" burner I thought would be
usefull for any DIY'er wanting to read/burn his own chips for fun. As you
will see the design is incredibly simple, and flexible, even for cone
shaped hat wearers!. Enjoy!


The specific URL for the EPROMr FAQ page is
<http://www.zws.com/products/epromr_faq.html>, however most of you will
want to go to <http://www.zws.com/products/bin/epromr.zip> and download the
new version of the software archive (approx. 555K). This zip file also
contains the FAQ document.


Derek 
PS Soon to be added a DIY'ers plan for making your own cone shaped hat!!!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 28 23:16:16 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Supercharged 3800
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 20:14:47 -0700
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The Eaton M-62 is ~$1700US new $1300 rebuilt. M-90 a little higher. Contact
www.eaton.com

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: 'DIY_EFI' <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, April 28, 1998 4:27 PM
Subject: Supercharged 3800


>Hi all,
>
>Q regrading S/C 3800.
>
>In Aus thay're fitted in Holdens. Drove one on the weekend in a LWB luxo
barge Statesman and was extremely surprised by the grunt as well as the
linear power delivery.
>
>Now, wanted to force induct my own earlier 3800, questions I have is if I
mount the S/C between the engine and throttle body (with the MAP sensor on
the throttle body), can I get away with running a 1 bar/atmo MAP sensor as
the MAP would never see boost.
>
>My only concern is the MAP may be subject to too much vacuum under hi
rev/lo TPS.
>
>Would this cause a problem?
>
>Any comments suggestions?
>
>Anyone Stateside know the price of a factory S/C for a 3800 - a local
importer here has a new one but wants $1800. I can buy a brand new complete
engine from Holden for approx $5000, which makes the $1800 for a bare S/C
seem a little high :-(
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 00:07:25 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Time to celebrate
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 00:07:35 -0400
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Well in addition to gme, for a known prom, we now have
delco_edit_1.zip............................ for doing your own
prom research.  Both are terrific.

Cheers
Bruce

Thanks to Terry, and Wayne


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 00:30:14 1998
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From: "Steve Baldwin" <steveb@kcbbs.gen.nz>
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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 16:33:18 +0000
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> I had occasion to get interested in the '687 a couple months ago. Info was no
> problem, but when I tried to get ahold of a chip, I found that NO ONE could get even
> one...
> 
> If that's not the case, I'd like to know. Plenty of literature available, just no
> hdwr.

As far as I know, that is still the case. I think the discontinuence 
was announced the day after I got data.
I'm particularly interested in the applications info as that's the 
bit I don't have. My interests are in implementing a similar thing in 
an FPGA. Don't hold your breath though. I still haven't finished the 
other project on the side that I started 5 years ago.

Steve.


======================================================
Steve Baldwin                Electronic Product Design
TLA Microsystems Ltd         Microcontroller Specialists
PO Box 15-680, New Lynn      http://www.tla.co.nz
Auckland, New Zealand        ph  +64 9 820-2221
email: steveb@tla.co.nz      fax +64 9 820-1929
======================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 00:34:47 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Supercharged 3800
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 21:33:13 -0700
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Sorry, this is more complete...

http://www.eaton.com/supercharger/M62.html
-----Original Message-----
From: TBK <terryk@foothill.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, April 28, 1998 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: Supercharged 3800


>The Eaton M-62 is ~$1700US new $1300 rebuilt. M-90 a little higher. Contact
>www.eaton.com
>
>TK
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
>To: 'DIY_EFI' <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Tuesday, April 28, 1998 4:27 PM
>Subject: Supercharged 3800
>
>
>>Hi all,
>>
>>Q regrading S/C 3800.
>>
>>In Aus thay're fitted in Holdens. Drove one on the weekend in a LWB luxo
>barge Statesman and was extremely surprised by the grunt as well as the
>linear power delivery.
>>
>>Now, wanted to force induct my own earlier 3800, questions I have is if I
>mount the S/C between the engine and throttle body (with the MAP sensor on
>the throttle body), can I get away with running a 1 bar/atmo MAP sensor as
>the MAP would never see boost.
>>
>>My only concern is the MAP may be subject to too much vacuum under hi
>rev/lo TPS.
>>
>>Would this cause a problem?
>>
>>Any comments suggestions?
>>
>>Anyone Stateside know the price of a factory S/C for a 3800 - a local
>importer here has a new one but wants $1800. I can buy a brand new complete
>engine from Holden for approx $5000, which makes the $1800 for a bare S/C
>seem a little high :-(
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 02:21:26 1998
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I recently came across mention of a new microcontroller, intended
for ECU automotive applications. It is by Motorola - code named
"Black Oak" based on a power pc architecture, with lots of stuff
on chip.

Any body know where more info, samples, software etc might be
found?.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 05:11:33 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
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I like the idea of the extra power from the V8, but are you SURE that the
VN/VP V8s will drop straight in??? I don't want the bother of stuffing
around with crossmember modifications, and the like. This is my one and only
car, and I can't afford to have it off the road for too long (putting in a
VK EFI would have it off the road for long enough, as it is...). In any
case, what sort of mileage might I get with the 5.0, and a 5 speed box?

I assume that by a "red motor head" you mean the head from a VB, or earlier,
and not the red head from an EFI Black motor??? Is your red motor converted
for ULP??? And please don't tell me to get a 3.0L VL motor... Firstly,
they're the noisiest brutes I've come across, and secondly, I have heard
nasty things about having to do all sorts of crossmember mods (otherwise, I
would go for the VL over the VK any day...).

How can I get into contact with Shannons??? I live in Hobart, is there an
office down here?

Thanks for the advice...

Danny Barrett.

>Danny,
>
>Just drop in a 5.0L VN/VP much better and Shannons won't even ask any
questions 
>(join a car club and they'll let you have race insurance as well for not a 
>great deal more).  As for licensing, not a problem as the VC came standard
with 
>a 5.0L.  The VK was a pretty crap attempt at pollution control, but if you
want 
>to go this way throw the heads and air pump away and replace with red motor 
>heads if possible.
>
>If interested I have a red motor for sale, 179 with 4 speed (XU-1 close
ratio), 
>motor built for racing (but was never raced at the track), 10K genuine road km 
>since rebuild (used to drive it to work everyday).  Fully race prepped heads, 
>etc, etc.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 05:16:51 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
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G'Day Peter,
Thanks for the info. You have just confirmed what I had suspected (both with
the engine, and the aero). What sort of prices would I be looking at for the
aero kits? Also, do you know of any way to "re-attach" the airflow at the
back of the roof?

What format is the attached file (REHolden)?????

>G'Day,
>
>VK 3.3 into the VC would be very straight forward, although I'd suggest
getting the entire fuel system from the VK (i.e fuel tank + pump, hi
pressure lines etc). The EFI is controled by a pretty crapppy by todays
standards analog computer. You might want to get a cheap aftermarket proper
EFI computer such as a Microtec Digi (about $650 Aus). VK EFI had extractors
standard.
>
>Try Shannons for insurance.
>
>As for Aerodynamics, the VB-K where good for their time but poor by todays
standards. Try Freedon or SSV (in Sydney for a body kit)
>
>Peter
>Attachment Converted: H:\MAIL\REHolden
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 05:40:52 1998
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Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
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G'Day Steve,
My blue motor is the 2.8L version. Would the VK computer cope with this
change (at least until I could get a real computer)??? I don't plan any
engine mods, apart from hardened valves and seats, remap the distributor,
and run it on ULP (eventually). What do the complete VK EFI systems you have
seen include? do they include the fuel tank, pump, head, engine block, etc,
or are they supposed to bolt onto any 3.3 or 2.8 Holden motor? How can I
contact Shannons? It's unfortunate that my car is a brick... So obviously no
ideas forthcoming for that??? Thanks for your advice.

Danny Barrett.

>Be simpler and cheaper to just bolt on the VK EFI gear to your existing
>engine, I suspect.  Certainly I know someone who did this with an LJ
>Torana, BUT he used a Haltech ECU to run the VK hardware.  This is the only
>way to go if you plan on any engine mods as the VK uses a version of the
>Bosch L-Jet system (analogue) which is not particularly suited to
>'modification', although there are things that can be done.  I've seen
>complete VK EFI systems advertised recently for around $700 or so, but
>should be able to do better than that.  A Haltech F9 (fuel only) costs
>about $1100, but for $1400 you could get a Wolf 3D which would probably be
>better (fuel and ign).
>
>Try Shannons or ring a few brokers for modified vehicle insurance.  Also
>CAMS offers mod. veh. insurance through QBE, but you have to be a member of
>an affiliated club.  Costs about $200 pa for TPO, but there is an option
>for fire and theft (at extra cost, of course !!).
>
>How _do_  you make a brick more aerodynamic...........   ;-)
>
>Steve Lamb


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 09:31:29 1998
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The latest EE times calls this the MPC555 which has a PowerPC core,
448K of Flash, 26K SRAM, Two UARTS, Two Queued Analog to Digital Converters, A
multichannle serial module, Ignition, Injection, and Transmission control
modules. Two CAN bus controllers too.
I suspect the latter functions are just different micro-code in the
RISC co-processor. Temp range of -40 to +125 C.

Its on page 49 of the April 27th issue. Looks like a real winner in the
automotive controller race. The PowerPC allows high level programming and
20MIPS, while the RISC does all the real-time work. It might be possible to
build a whole control module with this one chip, and driver transistors alone.

Hope this helps,

Angel

Webb wrote:
> 
> I recently came across mention of a new microcontroller, intended
> for ECU automotive applications. It is by Motorola - code named
> "Black Oak" based on a power pc architecture, with lots of stuff
> on chip.
> 
> Any body know where more info, samples, software etc might be
> found?.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 10:04:13 1998
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Subject: Re: Black Oak
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 10:07:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <3546C73B.2D9F0ECA@eagle.ptialaska.net> from "Webb" at Apr 28, 98 10:22:52 pm
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> 
> I recently came across mention of a new microcontroller, intended
> for ECU automotive applications. It is by Motorola - code named
> "Black Oak" based on a power pc architecture, with lots of stuff
> on chip.
> 
> Any body know where more info, samples, software etc might be
> found?.
> 
email Motorola's engineering dept
tell them you belong to an EFI mailing list and you want to get the entire
list on the Beta test program for the system

if you get on you get free samples, dev kits, engineering suport, software
design support etc.

and the PPC archtechture is easy to program for compared to raw code or 
x86 PM memory map goo

Clive 


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 10:32:47 1998
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Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 10:35:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <01BD736B.978DF600.dzorde@soanar.com.au> from "Dan Zorde" at Apr 29, 98 12:37:36 pm
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> 
> You don't, which is why you just add more power and accept the extra fuel bill.
> 
> How _do_  you make a brick more aerodynamic...........   ;-)

not really true
try to keep as much air as possible from going under the brick
lowering it or adding spoilers fron and rear can help alot
also plugging up any extra airflow around the rad or front bulkhead can help
with this (and cooling as well)

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 11:17:45 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 101 Stuff
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 11:17:57 -0400
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We here at CSH., HQ., are experiencing a technical problem.
While slightly off list, the edge is blurring here between personal
and 101 projects.  Anyway, we need a couple things.  1. a set
of ecm connectors like used on the 747's (it used two connectors),
2. a set off a 730 type ecm (it had three connectors), with like a
foot (preferably more) of wire on them for doing some bench work.
3. Then a entire harness outta like a 90-91 2.8 Celebrity, or any other
1227730 ecm equipped car.  Not looking for freebies, just resonable
priced ones.
Nor a worry mate.
Bruce        


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 11:27:36 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 11:27:47 -0400
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Date: Wednesday, April 29, 1998 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: Holden Commodore,  Aerodynamics.


Is there a picture of one online somewhere?

What Clive mentioned is very true.  Had a 71 Pinto at one time, and slotted
the bumper brackets, so it fit more flush up to the body, and spaced the
grill out to the front of the hood.  Then filled in everything that was an
air
leak, and ducted things to the radiator.  Also did an abbreviated 69 Boss
302
type spoiler.  Been 20 years, but did some roll down tests, and it all
helped.
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 13:41:09 1998
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From: "Jose Carlos Rublescki" <rublesck@portoweb.com.br>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Lambda sensor (O2 sensor) fuel dependancy.
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 14:39:39 -0300
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I'm working on a car which runs with ethanol alcohol (NOT methanol) and
I've installed an O2 sensor. Should the sensor readings be interpreted the
same manner as if the car were running with gasoline? Anyone has had any
experience with this?

Thanks in advance,
Jose Carlos Rublescki

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 14:28:59 1998
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From: Robin Bujhawan <petroisd@trinidad.net>
To: "'DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Books on gasoline to propane conversion (FI)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 14:18:15 -0400
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I'm looking for some good books on conversion of gasoline to propane on fuel injected engines (cars mostly).

Any help appreciated.

Robin.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 14:41:52 1998
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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:38:27 -0600
From: Steven Ciciora <scicior@uswest.com>
Organization: Capacity Provisioning, Littleton, CO
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I plan on laying out a PCB and putting together a kit for the below. 
I'm going to offer it at cost, and am trying to get it as cheap as
possible.  So if your construction skills are marginal or are not as
experienced as others, if you wait a few weeks, I should be announcing
more details.  Depending on a lot of things (such as ZIF sockets, power
supply, etc) I'm hoping for the cost to be under $30.  Now if only
someone could find a bunch of $15 eprom erasers...

Steven Ciciora

P.S. I already have an eprom programmer for my self; my only motivation
is to contribute what I can to the Loyal Order of the Cone Shaped Hat.

------------------------------

From: "Derek Jewett" <djewett@snowcrest.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 20:23:08 -0700
Subject: DIY'ers EPROM Burner

Ok the 2732 update has been added to the DIY'ers EPROM burner. Please
note
that the 2732 hack has not been tested as of yet, but the unit works
fine
for burning 27128/256/512,etc... It is a hobbyists grade plan so the
plans
are a little akward, if you have trouble reading the hand drawn
schematics
let me know I have a well laid out schemaic I can save as a metafile and
send you a copy. This project was originaly intended for burning video
game
cartriges and turned into a more "generic" burner I thought would be
usefull for any DIY'er wanting to read/burn his own chips for fun. As
you
will see the design is incredibly simple, and flexible, even for cone
shaped hat wearers!. Enjoy!


The specific URL for the EPROMr FAQ page is
<http://www.zws.com/products/epromr_faq.html>, however most of you will
want to go to <http://www.zws.com/products/bin/epromr.zip> and download
the
new version of the software archive (approx. 555K). This zip file also
contains the FAQ document.


Derek 
PS Soon to be added a DIY'ers plan for making your own cone shaped
hat!!!!!

------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 15:16:13 1998
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Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 14:09:40 -0500
From: mdill@lsil.com (Mike Dillon)
Message-Id: <199804291909.OAA05902@mms10>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, nacelp@bright.net,
        dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us, MikeTurner@kemet.com, ECMnut@aol.com,
        Tmatthe1@worldnet.att.net, mweber@lsil.com, dpainter@anv.net,
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Subject: PROM carriers are here !
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Hey Guys

	I have been informed that the carriers are here. I will pick them up tomarrow
and start shipping them out later this week. I think I have everyone's name who experessed
an interest in them. I need to firm up the XX ish. They came in at 25 cents/each + shipping.
I think shipping should be pretty cheap they are  pretty light and small.

 This is what I have for orders :

 Bruce Plecan     50
 Mike V          ~50
 Thomas Matthews  25
 Mike Weber     ~100 
 Mike Turner   25-50     ( Let me know Mike )
 Steve Ciciora    25 ish 
 Mike Dillon     ~25 ish
 Dave Williams  12-25 ish (let me know Dave)

 Requests after order was placed (Lets see if we can get these guys some)

 Dan Painter     ~25
 Greg Parmer     a few.  

 If I missed anyone speak now, book keeping is not my strong point. 
 (We have 350 I think tere is enough to keep everone happy)

 Shoot me a sanail mail address, and when I get them shipped I will let you 
 know what the total came to, If your worried about shipping cost let me know
 what the cut off on shippng charges are so you don't get sticker shock. (
 I think shipping is going to be less than $ 5.00 for each of the orders) 
 
 Latter Mike D.

  

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 18:19:39 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 08:20:18 +1000
Encoding: 48 TEXT, 57 UUENCODE
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Hi Danny,

A typical "Aero" kit for an early commodore would set you back around $1000 
fitted (perhaps a little less depending on style). Theres a kit available 
thats suited for VB-VK and based on the GTS-R. Looks good on the early 
cars.

Reattaching airflow - not too clued on aerodynamics. Try talking to the kit 
manufacturers.

Peter

----------
From: 	Danny Barrett
Sent: 	Wednesday, April 29, 1998 7:16 PM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.

G'Day Peter,
Thanks for the info. You have just confirmed what I had suspected (both 
with
the engine, and the aero). What sort of prices would I be looking at for 
the
aero kits? Also, do you know of any way to "re-attach" the airflow at the
back of the roof?

What format is the attached file (REHolden)?????

>G'Day,
>
>VK 3.3 into the VC would be very straight forward, although I'd suggest
getting the entire fuel system from the VK (i.e fuel tank + pump, hi
pressure lines etc). The EFI is controled by a pretty crapppy by todays
standards analog computer. You might want to get a cheap aftermarket proper
EFI computer such as a Microtec Digi (about $650 Aus). VK EFI had 
extractors
standard.
>
>Try Shannons for insurance.
>
>As for Aerodynamics, the VB-K where good for their time but poor by todays
standards. Try Freedon or SSV (in Sydney for a body kit)
>
>Peter
>Attachment Converted: H:\MAIL\REHolden
>



begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT
M>)\^(A,6`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$(@ <`
M& ```$E032Y-:6-R;W-O9G0@36%I;"Y.;W1E`#$(`0V ! `"`````@`"``$$
MD 8`8 $```$````,`````P``, (````+``\.``````(!_P\!````80``````
M``"!*Q^DOJ,0&9UN`-T!#U0"`````&1I>5]E9FE 969I,S,R+F5N9RYO:&EO
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end



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 18:24:41 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 08:27:42 +1000
Encoding: 73 TEXT, 78 UUENCODE
X-MS-Attachment: WINMAIL.DAT 0 00-00-1980 00:00
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Hi Danny,

The VN onwards V8 would physically bolt in no problems.

Your main problem, depending on state, is the other mods that need to be 
made as the car may need to comply with emmissions regs for the year of the 
motor rather than the car. Stuff like unleaded type fuel filler neck (prob 
VL would fit), cat con, EGR(already fitte dI assume), air box(regs state 
you can't alter induction setup) etc. Also, they may get picky and require 
overall drive ratio (i.e box->diff->rubber) be very close to original as 
this can affect driveby emissions.

Don't get me wrong - its an excellent conversion and I definetely recommend 
it but theres a lot of hidden work.

BTW a 350 Chev bolts in. Castlemaine Rod Shop supplies a kit. A friend dit 
it to a VB SL/E on LPG. Ran very well. Best of all its a sleeper (i.e stock 
outside) - blown quite a few respectable doors off :-)

Peter
(Still wrestling with this damn MIME option - arrggghh)

----------
From: 	Danny Barrett
Sent: 	Wednesday, April 29, 1998 7:11 PM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.

I like the idea of the extra power from the V8, but are you SURE that the
VN/VP V8s will drop straight in??? I don't want the bother of stuffing
around with crossmember modifications, and the like. This is my one and 
only
car, and I can't afford to have it off the road for too long (putting in a
VK EFI would have it off the road for long enough, as it is...). In any
case, what sort of mileage might I get with the 5.0, and a 5 speed box?

I assume that by a "red motor head" you mean the head from a VB, or 
earlier,
and not the red head from an EFI Black motor??? Is your red motor converted
for ULP??? And please don't tell me to get a 3.0L VL motor... Firstly,
they're the noisiest brutes I've come across, and secondly, I have heard
nasty things about having to do all sorts of crossmember mods (otherwise, I
would go for the VL over the VK any day...).

How can I get into contact with Shannons??? I live in Hobart, is there an
office down here?

Thanks for the advice...

Danny Barrett.

>Danny,
>
>Just drop in a 5.0L VN/VP much better and Shannons won't even ask any
questions
>(join a car club and they'll let you have race insurance as well for not a 
>great deal more).  As for licensing, not a problem as the VC came standard
with
>a 5.0L.  The VK was a pretty crap attempt at pollution control, but if you
want
>to go this way throw the heads and air pump away and replace with red 
motor
>heads if possible.
>
>If interested I have a red motor for sale, 179 with 4 speed (XU-1 close
ratio),
>motor built for racing (but was never raced at the track), 10K genuine 
road km
>since rebuild (used to drive it to work everyday).  Fully race prepped 
heads,
>etc, etc.



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end



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 20:19:45 1998
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References: <01BD736B.978DF600.dzorde@soanar.com.au> from "Dan Zorde" at
 Apr 29, 98 12:37:36 pm
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From: Steve Lamb <lambs@HOTBLK.dsto.defence.gov.au>
Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
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>>
>> You don't, which is why you just add more power and accept the extra
>>fuel bill.
>>
>> How _do_  you make a brick more aerodynamic...........   ;-)
>
>not really true

......and I wasn't  _really_  serious, thus the "smiley" (sheesh..............)


>try to keep as much air as possible from going under the brick
>lowering it or adding spoilers fron and rear can help alot
>also plugging up any extra airflow around the rad or front bulkhead can help
>with this (and cooling as well)
>
>Clive

Steve Lamb
Department of Defence, DSTO
Aeronautical and Maritime Research Laboratory
506 Lorimer Street
Fishermans Bend  VIC 3207 Australia

Tel: +61 3 9626 7525
Fax: +61 3 9626 7089

IZCC #180



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 20:54:00 1998
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 10:48:07 +0800
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I see your point, I don't know if the VC used the same cross member for the 6 
and 8 or whether they were different (if it's a part of the front end, ie not 
detachable, I'll bet it's the same one, just change engine mount), anyway just 
give any Holden dealer or wrecker a call.  Mileage wise, don't know that 
either, but it would have to be very similar to that of the VN/VP, go to a 
library and look through the old issues of Wheels Magazine for the VN or VP 
road test.

Red motor head, yes referring back to the Kingswood motors, and no its not 
built for ULP, in fact it prefers a 70/30 super/avgas mix.   I agree with 
staying away from the Nissan 3L, it's a very nice motor in the Nissan, but 
you'll have air pocket problem in the Commodore due to radiator mounting height 
restrictions.

Dan	dzorde@soanar.com.au

-----Original Message-----
From:	Danny Barrett [SMTP:danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au]
Sent:	Wednesday, 29 April, 1998 5:11 PM
To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:	RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.

I like the idea of the extra power from the V8, but are you SURE that the
VN/VP V8s will drop straight in??? I don't want the bother of stuffing
around with crossmember modifications, and the like. This is my one and only
car, and I can't afford to have it off the road for too long (putting in a
VK EFI would have it off the road for long enough, as it is...). In any
case, what sort of mileage might I get with the 5.0, and a 5 speed box?

I assume that by a "red motor head" you mean the head from a VB, or earlier,
and not the red head from an EFI Black motor??? Is your red motor converted
for ULP??? And please don't tell me to get a 3.0L VL motor... Firstly,
they're the noisiest brutes I've come across, and secondly, I have heard
nasty things about having to do all sorts of crossmember mods (otherwise, I
would go for the VL over the VK any day...).

How can I get into contact with Shannons??? I live in Hobart, is there an
office down here?

Thanks for the advice...

Danny Barrett.



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 22:13:45 1998
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101ers
I have a 100 MHZ portable storage oscilloscope for sale for $75  ( +
shipping ) to a person working on Programming 101 that needs a scope .
This is my cost. It is a Philips dual trace analog storage scope PM 3266
with Operators Manual / Service Manual . This is not a beginners scope
has 40 + buttons , knobs and switches. It you want more information
contact me off line. Hope this is ok to post. Thanks

Steve
kb4mxo@mwt.net


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 29 22:56:29 1998
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Good idea. I'll let you know what happens...Bet you thought you were kiddin'!

Samples are like women - you don't get if you don't ask!


Clive Apps Techno-Logicals 416 510 0020 wrote: .

> >snip>
> email Motorola's engineering dept
> tell them you belong to an EFI mailing list and you want to get the entire
> list on the Beta test program for the system
>
> if you get on you get free samples, dev kits, engineering suport, software
> design support etc.
>
> Clive




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 02:34:32 1998
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Here's the situation. I'm wiring an Accel DFI system onto a 4-cylinder
turbo engine. Now the store (JG Engine Dynamics) told my friend that
this is a plug-and-play system...so far it's been more like plug and
pray. It's just a hacked-up LT1 harness with some poor solder work,
nicked insulation (hidden with tape) and no sort of additional info
included by them except for the Accel papers. Of course, since we need
the car running on Friday, everytime we call JG, nobody answers or the
line is busy >:-( Murphy's law sucks. 

Now the problems:
1) We're supposed to wire the inductive pickup interface to the stock
electronic distributor, using a 4pin-to-3pin adapter. Problem is there
is no 4pin adapter on the main harness (as shown on the included info).
Apparently JG must have chopped this connector off. So what I'd like to
know is what colors were these wires going to the connector? The wires
on the 3-pin side are purple, orange, and black.
2) There's supposed to be a 3-pin (color black) plug  for the TPS.
Again, there's no plug..another fine modification by JG. What color
wires go to the TPS, and what is each wire's purpose?
3) This DFI computer is supposed to have a base program designed for
this engine. The engine has variable valve timing triggered by RPM, but
theres nothing shown on the paperwork that mentions if this computer has
the RPM trigger (usually used for nitrous). Any way I can tell through
physical description of the wiring? We don't have the calmap software
(dyno place does), but I'd like to know before we finalize the wiring.

Thanks in Advance,
Ed

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 03:47:38 1998
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Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
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G'day Clive,
What if I were to put a cold air induction collector all the way across the
car, just behind the engine bay - what doesn't go in the engine gets pushed
out from under the car???

Danny Barrett.

 
>> You don't, which is why you just add more power and accept the extra fuel
bill.
>> 
>> How _do_  you make a brick more aerodynamic...........   ;-)
>
>not really true
>try to keep as much air as possible from going under the brick
>lowering it or adding spoilers fron and rear can help alot
>also plugging up any extra airflow around the rad or front bulkhead can help
>with this (and cooling as well)
>
>Clive 
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 03:56:48 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
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G'day there,
Try this site...
http://www.uq.net.au/~zznweber/vc/vc-main.html
and:
http://www.uq.net.au/~zznweber/vc/vc-sle.html

I tried to make the underbody of the car more aerodynamic (as an experiment)
by covering it all with duct tape, but it didn't stick properly (even after
a good scrub clean underneath), so it created just as much drag as it got
rid of - ie. it didn't work...
Tell me what you think about the car... would the things you suggested wouk
for it???

Danny Barrett.


>Is there a picture of one online somewhere?
>
>What Clive mentioned is very true.  Had a 71 Pinto at one time, and slotted
>the bumper brackets, so it fit more flush up to the body, and spaced the
>grill out to the front of the hood.  Then filled in everything that was an
>air
>leak, and ducted things to the radiator.  Also did an abbreviated 69 Boss
>302
>type spoiler.  Been 20 years, but did some roll down tests, and it all
>helped.
>Bruce
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 04:20:30 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
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G'Day Peter,
Are there any pics on the net of cars with these kits on them? One thing I
thought of was to put a cold air induction "collector" under the car, just
behind the engine bay - the idea is that the air that doesn't get sucked
into the engine gets pushed from under the car. Might this work, or would it
make things worse???

Danny Barrett.

>Hi Danny,
>
>A typical "Aero" kit for an early commodore would set you back around $1000 
>fitted (perhaps a little less depending on style). Theres a kit available 
>thats suited for VB-VK and based on the GTS-R. Looks good on the early 
>cars.
>
>Reattaching airflow - not too clued on aerodynamics. Try talking to the kit 
>manufacturers.
>
>Peter
>
>----------
>From: 	Danny Barrett
>Sent: 	Wednesday, April 29, 1998 7:16 PM
>To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: 	RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
>
>G'Day Peter,
>Thanks for the info. You have just confirmed what I had suspected (both 
>with
>the engine, and the aero). What sort of prices would I be looking at for 
>the
>aero kits? Also, do you know of any way to "re-attach" the airflow at the
>back of the roof?
>
>What format is the attached file (REHolden)?????
>
>>G'Day,
>>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 04:33:58 1998
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Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
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G'day,
I've just been told that the VN/VP V8s should drop straight in. I believe
the VC V8 engines would drop straight in, but my concern was that the motors
on the VL and later were slightly different due to the different
crossmembers, etc. ie. like the VL 3L motor - VC would need crossmember mods
to fit it, and then a VL steering rack would possibly have to be put in
(sounds like a pain in the butt to me...). Anyway, I'll get more opinions
before I decide to either go for the V8, or shelve the idea. Thanks for your
advice.

Danny Barrett.

PS: How would my stock standard 2.8L inline 6 go on AVGAS (I assume it's
leaded...)???



>I see your point, I don't know if the VC used the same cross member for the 6 
>and 8 or whether they were different (if it's a part of the front end, ie not 
>detachable, I'll bet it's the same one, just change engine mount), anyway just 
>give any Holden dealer or wrecker a call.  Mileage wise, don't know that 
>either, but it would have to be very similar to that of the VN/VP, go to a 
>library and look through the old issues of Wheels Magazine for the VN or VP 
>road test.
>
>Red motor head, yes referring back to the Kingswood motors, and no its not 
>built for ULP, in fact it prefers a 70/30 super/avgas mix.   I agree with 
>staying away from the Nissan 3L, it's a very nice motor in the Nissan, but 
>you'll have air pocket problem in the Commodore due to radiator mounting
height 
>restrictions.
>
>Dan	dzorde@soanar.com.au
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Danny Barrett [SMTP:danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au]
>Sent:	Wednesday, 29 April, 1998 5:11 PM
>To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject:	RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
>
>I like the idea of the extra power from the V8, but are you SURE that the
>VN/VP V8s will drop straight in??? I don't want the bother of stuffing
>around with crossmember modifications, and the like. This is my one and only
>car, and I can't afford to have it off the road for too long (putting in a
>VK EFI would have it off the road for long enough, as it is...). In any
>case, what sort of mileage might I get with the 5.0, and a 5 speed box?
>
>I assume that by a "red motor head" you mean the head from a VB, or earlier,
>and not the red head from an EFI Black motor??? Is your red motor converted
>for ULP??? And please don't tell me to get a 3.0L VL motor... Firstly,
>they're the noisiest brutes I've come across, and secondly, I have heard
>nasty things about having to do all sorts of crossmember mods (otherwise, I
>would go for the VL over the VK any day...).
>
>How can I get into contact with Shannons??? I live in Hobart, is there an
>office down here?
>
>Thanks for the advice...
>
>Danny Barrett.
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 04:38:28 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:34:51 +0100
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Simple answer to this..

Lower the car to 1/8 inch off the ground, you will now have ground
effect, and air will not flow under the car, to smooth any air that does
lurk in that small space, get polypropalyne sheet, and cut a template of
the under body of the car, rivet the sheet to the underbody of the car,
it is best to use polyprop, as it flexes well, so you cover the
underside of the suspension as well.

On the top remove any guttering , but cutting and welding no more than 4
inches at a time.

Then reshape the front of the car to make it more aerodynamic by driving
at speed into the sloping side of a skip.

What has this got to do with injection


Rob Humphris

>
>
>I tried to make the underbody of the car more aerodynamic (as an experiment)
>by covering it all with duct tape, 

Well of course duct tape will work... All the top 'works' teams use it.
>
>
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 07:18:06 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
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I hope you didn't bite while you were writing this... Your tongue was
obviously firmly planted in your cheek. As for what it has to do with
injection... Nothing, except for the original email message (this is about a
fifth or sixth generation reply, and the stuff about EFI have gradually been
removed as the questions were answered - all that remains is the
aerodynamics stuff. Thanks for the ideas anyway (however sarcastic some of
them may be :) ). O.K, here's something to do with injection... How can I
build a simple "home made" water injection system, and how much water should
I use? Can I simply splice another injector into an injector control line
(in parallel), and use another fuel pump to pressurise the water?

Danny Barrett.



>Simple answer to this..
>
>Lower the car to 1/8 inch off the ground, you will now have ground
>effect, and air will not flow under the car, to smooth any air that does
>lurk in that small space, get polypropalyne sheet, and cut a template of
>the under body of the car, rivet the sheet to the underbody of the car,
>it is best to use polyprop, as it flexes well, so you cover the
>underside of the suspension as well.
>
>On the top remove any guttering , but cutting and welding no more than 4
>inches at a time.
>
>Then reshape the front of the car to make it more aerodynamic by driving
>at speed into the sloping side of a skip.
>
>What has this got to do with injection
>
>
>Rob Humphris
>
>>
>>
>>I tried to make the underbody of the car more aerodynamic (as an experiment)
>>by covering it all with duct tape, 
>
>Well of course duct tape will work... All the top 'works' teams use it.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 08:30:16 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 08:38:26 -0400
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Subject: Re: Urgent, Need help with a DFI harness
Priority: normal
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If this is a standard (batch fire) spark/fuel DFI system I can fax 
you the wire list from Accel.


> 1) We're supposed to wire the inductive pickup interface to the stock
>  snip
> (dyno place does), but I'd like to know before we finalize the wiring.
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> Ed
> 
> 
Randy Braun     rbraun@enter.net
91  GTA
82 Firebird

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 09:04:00 1998
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Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:06:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <199804300747.RAA20943@corinna.its.utas.edu.au> from "Danny Barrett" at Apr 30, 98 05:47:31 pm
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> 
> G'day Clive,
> What if I were to put a cold air induction collector all the way across the
> car, just behind the engine bay - what doesn't go in the engine gets pushed
> out from under the car???


only do this if you can collect all the air into the engine
the rest will pile under the car and slow you down

Clive 
> 
> Danny Barrett.
> 
>  
> >> You don't, which is why you just add more power and accept the extra fuel
> bill.
> >> 
> >> How _do_  you make a brick more aerodynamic...........   ;-)
> >
> >not really true
> >try to keep as much air as possible from going under the brick
> >lowering it or adding spoilers fron and rear can help alot
> >also plugging up any extra airflow around the rad or front bulkhead can help
> >with this (and cooling as well)
> >
> >Clive 
> >
> >
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 09:05:42 1998
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Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:08:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <199804300756.RAA22638@corinna.its.utas.edu.au> from "Danny Barrett" at Apr 30, 98 05:56:45 pm
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> 
> G'day there,
> Try this site...
> http://www.uq.net.au/~zznweber/vc/vc-main.html
> and:
> http://www.uq.net.au/~zznweber/vc/vc-sle.html
> 
> I tried to make the underbody of the car more aerodynamic (as an experiment)
> by covering it all with duct tape, but it didn't stick properly (even after
> a good scrub clean underneath), so it created just as much drag as it got
> rid of - ie. it didn't work...
> Tell me what you think about the car... would the things you suggested wouk
> for it???


have a friend duct tape you to a chair
I really doen't want to be driving on the same roads with you

Clive 
> 
> >
> >What Clive mentioned is very true.  Had a 71 Pinto at one time, and slotted
> >the bumper brackets, so it fit more flush up to the body, and spaced the
> >grill out to the front of the hood.  Then filled in everything that was an
> >air
> >leak, and ducted things to the radiator.  Also did an abbreviated 69 Boss
> >302
> >type spoiler.  Been 20 years, but did some roll down tests, and it all
> >helped.
> >Bruce
> >
> >
> >
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 09:07:57 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 14:04:20 +0100
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>	I hope you didn't bite while you were writing this... Your tongue was
	obviously firmly planted in your cheek. 
Well yes, and no...

5mm sheet of Polypropalyne is cheap and will flatten off the underside
of the car nicely.
Lowering a car to 1/8 inch off the ground is what I have been told is
the point at which formula1 ground effect was used in the 70's.
Deseaming has been widely regarded as a good way of cleaning a cars
aerodynamic profile. Some people cut off an entire seam and wonder why
their car 'pops' open ( don't laugh this was a common mistake with Mini
owners ) you should grind, weld, grind and weld along the seam/gutter no
more than 4 inches at a time.... best that you do not start at one end
and move along, cut 4 inches,weld, leave a gap of 4 inches then cut
futher up  ____----____----____----____----    then do the bits that you
leave.
On the works Triumph TR8 they deseamed and welded a roll cage in at the
same time ( actually splitting the skin of the internal mounts and
pillars welding the cage in then welding through the cat seam on the
outside... that car was stiff and safe.

>	Thanks for the ideas anyway (however sarcastic some of
	them may be :) 

Sarcastic??? oh you mean the skip!  That may have been ( you knew this
because the skip idea would  damage the radiator )...  But surely you
will allow a man to joke?  No oh well then.
But you cannot seriously mention Duct tape and not expect a shot across
the bows, can you?


Rob Humphris
>

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 09:52:04 1998
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From: "Micro-Tech Automotive Industries" <mt@micro-tech-auto.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: o-scope for sale for 101ers
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:52:10 -0400
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Steve,

I am interested in buying the scope you have for sale.  If you want we
can do this via e-mail or by phone.  You can give me a call at (800)
588-1588.  Ask for Mike Mayo or dial extension 132.  If you want, I
could give you a call.  Thanks.

Mike


----------
: From: Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
: To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
: Subject: o-scope for sale for 101ers
: Date: Wednesday, April 29, 1998 10:03 PM
: 
: 101ers
: I have a 100 MHZ portable storage oscilloscope for sale for $75  ( +
: shipping ) to a person working on Programming 101 that needs a scope

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 10:17:55 1998
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Steven Gorkowski wrote:
> 
> 101ers
> I have a 100 MHZ portable storage oscilloscope for sale for $75  ( +
> shipping ) to a person working on Programming 101 that needs a scope .
> This is my cost. It is a Philips dual trace analog storage scope PM 3266
> with Operators Manual / Service Manual . This is not a beginners scope
> has 40 + buttons , knobs and switches. It you want more information
> contact me off line. Hope this is ok to post. Thanks
> 
> Steve
> kb4mxo@mwt.net

I'll take it.  Where do I send money to, and what is acceptable
(personal check, cashiers check, stamps, ???)

--
Steve Ravet
International Meta Systems
http://www.imes.com
steve@imes.com

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 10:25:15 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Insurance, Aerodynamics.
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>> 
>> G'day Clive,
>> What if I were to put a cold air induction collector all the way across the
>> car, just behind the engine bay - what doesn't go in the engine gets pushed
>> out from under the car???
>
>
>only do this if you can collect all the air into the engine
>the rest will pile under the car and slow you down
>
>Clive

Oh, @#%&%*@~@$#*&%%~%@#*&#!!!!!!! That @#@%*&%*##$*$ed up my day!!! Thanks
anyway...


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 10:57:14 1998
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 10:56:52 -0400
From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: Re: Urgent, Need help with a DFI harness
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Ed wrote:
> 2) There's supposed to be a 3-pin (color black) plug  for the TPS.
> Again, there's no plug..another fine modification by JG. What color
> wires go to the TPS, and what is each wire's purpose?

TPS A Dk green (TPS return) goes to D1 on the DFI connector
TPS B lt blue (TPS signal) goes to C1
TPS C yellow (+5V ref) goes to D5

> the RPM trigger (usually used for nitrous). Any way I can tell through
> physical description of the wiring?

All the DFI ECM's have this capability. I think it's off the global
variables menu... You either ground or power pin B9 (nitrous enable) and
then the output is B11 (nitrous solenoid)

> We don't have the calmap software
> (dyno place does), but I'd like to know before we finalize the wiring.

If the software isn't copyrighted, I can email a copy, since you need
their little black box anyways. The $200 for CALMAP and the cable is
worth it if you plan on doing some tuning. HTH

Andris

-- 
*********Skulte Performance Designs---WWW.SKULTE.COM**********
      Your third and fourth generation f-body specialists
******89 IROC M5 305TPI---13.5@104.1--320 hp/475 ft-lbs*******

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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
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I have to admit that I expected a few "shots." Mind you - it was only an
experiment - the stuff definitely isn't there now!!! I didn't put it where
the exhaust is (i didn't want it to melt and catch fire). Wouldn't the
Polyprop sheet melt/catch on fire from the heat of the exhaust? Perhaps not
(???) but I would prefer to be on the safe side of things (even if I did put
duct tape under there)... So you weren't being "funny" with the 1/8"?!?!?!
Somehow I don't think my car could get that low... But I'm told that about
2" is quite normal for this type of vehicle... As for the gutter, I think it
is screwed on with my car :) but I would have to check to make sure. Either
way, it isn't welded on, as it is chromed (unlike the rest of the car). So
at worst, it is onlt riveted on (I know for a fact that the gutter is EITHER
screwed on, OR riveted on, but from memory, I think it is screwed on).
Thanks for the tips. I'll see what happens.

Danny Barrett.


>>	I hope you didn't bite while you were writing this... Your tongue was
>	obviously firmly planted in your cheek. 
>Well yes, and no...
>
>5mm sheet of Polypropalyne is cheap and will flatten off the underside
>of the car nicely.
>Lowering a car to 1/8 inch off the ground is what I have been told is
>the point at which formula1 ground effect was used in the 70's.
>Deseaming has been widely regarded as a good way of cleaning a cars
>aerodynamic profile. Some people cut off an entire seam and wonder why
>their car 'pops' open ( don't laugh this was a common mistake with Mini
>owners ) you should grind, weld, grind and weld along the seam/gutter no
>more than 4 inches at a time.... best that you do not start at one end
>and move along, cut 4 inches,weld, leave a gap of 4 inches then cut
>futher up  ____----____----____----____----    then do the bits that you
>leave.
>On the works Triumph TR8 they deseamed and welded a roll cage in at the
>same time ( actually splitting the skin of the internal mounts and
>pillars welding the cage in then welding through the cat seam on the
>outside... that car was stiff and safe.
>
>>	Thanks for the ideas anyway (however sarcastic some of
>	them may be :) 
>
>Sarcastic??? oh you mean the skip!  That may have been ( you knew this
>because the skip idea would  damage the radiator )...  But surely you
>will allow a man to joke?  No oh well then.
>But you cannot seriously mention Duct tape and not expect a shot across
>the bows, can you?
>
>
>Rob Humphris
>>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 12:42:07 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
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Ammendment: I mean to say 2" drop from standard is normal, not 2" clearance
between the ground and the car...

D.B...


>I have to admit that I expected a few "shots." Mind you - it was only an
>experiment - the stuff definitely isn't there now!!! I didn't put it where
>the exhaust is (i didn't want it to melt and catch fire). Wouldn't the
>Polyprop sheet melt/catch on fire from the heat of the exhaust? Perhaps not
>(???) but I would prefer to be on the safe side of things (even if I did put
>duct tape under there)... So you weren't being "funny" with the 1/8"?!?!?!
>Somehow I don't think my car could get that low... But I'm told that about
>2" is quite normal for this type of vehicle... As for the gutter, I think it
>is screwed on with my car :) but I would have to check to make sure. Either
>way, it isn't welded on, as it is chromed (unlike the rest of the car). So
>at worst, it is onlt riveted on (I know for a fact that the gutter is EITHER
>screwed on, OR riveted on, but from memory, I think it is screwed on).
>Thanks for the tips. I'll see what happens.
>
>Danny Barrett.
>
>
>>>	I hope you didn't bite while you were writing this... Your tongue was
>>	obviously firmly planted in your cheek. 
>>Well yes, and no...
>>
>>5mm sheet of Polypropalyne is cheap and will flatten off the underside
>>of the car nicely.
>>Lowering a car to 1/8 inch off the ground is what I have been told is
>>the point at which formula1 ground effect was used in the 70's.
>>Deseaming has been widely regarded as a good way of cleaning a cars
>>aerodynamic profile. Some people cut off an entire seam and wonder why
>>their car 'pops' open ( don't laugh this was a common mistake with Mini
>>owners ) you should grind, weld, grind and weld along the seam/gutter no
>>more than 4 inches at a time.... best that you do not start at one end
>>and move along, cut 4 inches,weld, leave a gap of 4 inches then cut
>>futher up  ____----____----____----____----    then do the bits that you
>>leave.
>>On the works Triumph TR8 they deseamed and welded a roll cage in at the
>>same time ( actually splitting the skin of the internal mounts and
>>pillars welding the cage in then welding through the cat seam on the
>>outside... that car was stiff and safe.
>>
>>>	Thanks for the ideas anyway (however sarcastic some of
>>	them may be :) 
>>
>>Sarcastic??? oh you mean the skip!  That may have been ( you knew this
>>because the skip idea would  damage the radiator )...  But surely you
>>will allow a man to joke?  No oh well then.
>>But you cannot seriously mention Duct tape and not expect a shot across
>>the bows, can you?
>>
>>
>>Rob Humphris
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 12:43:35 1998
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Subject: Re: DFI: Urgent, Need help with a DFI harness
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Watson, Bill (Tempe) wrote:
> 
> Someone fax him the 015013 wire list!!  I'm at work now.
> 

	If anyone can fax this wire list, please send it to 732-775-3700, it's
my friend's shop (and his car we're doing the DFI on). Thanks for all
the help.

-Ed

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Subject: Re: DFI: Urgent, Need help with a DFI harness
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Ed wrote:
>
>    If anyone can fax this wire list, please send it to 732-775-3700, it's
> my friend's shop (and his car we're doing the DFI on). Thanks for all
> the help.


	DOH! That's his phone line. His FAX number is 732-775-0427. Sorry about
that.

-Ed

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 18:06:41 1998
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Date: Fri, 01 May 1998 10:03:41 +1200
From: Simon Quested <questeds@whio.lincoln.ac.nz>
Subject: Sun 1215 engine analyzer.
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Message-id: <0ES800AY1YSHHN@kauri.lincoln.ac.nz>
Organization: Lincoln University
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Hi Guys 

I have been given a Sun 1215 engine analyzer from what I can gather it is 
mainly for ignition analysis but it all so has a gas sniffer, HO's CO's I think.
Anyway the guy who gave it to me had US$1250 of work done on it and it was 
running great for a couple of months, then it didn't, the tech guy told him 
memory card had died. The guy who owned it is off overseas and was going to 
dump it if I didn't want it.
Can anyone help me out with info on this beast as I'd like to get it up and 
running again.

Cheers

Simon
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
  Simon Quested (E-mail questeds@lincoln.ac.nz)
  Computer Technician, Silicon Graphics & Windows NT Support
  Centre for Computing and Biometrics
  LINCOLN UNIVERSITY OF NEW ZEALAND
  Phone (64)(03) 3252811 Ext. 8087
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
http://www.lincoln.ac.nz/ccb/techs/simon/default.htm
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
I drive way too fast to worry about cholesterol
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 18:09:43 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 18:09:59 -0400
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From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...


>I hope you didn't bite while you were writing this... Your tongue was
>obviously firmly planted in your cheek. As for what it has to do with
>injection... Nothing, except for the original email message (this is about
a
>fifth or sixth generation reply, and the stuff about EFI have gradually
been removed as

>build a simple "home made" water injection system, and how much water
should
>I use? Can I simply splice another injector into an injector control line
>(in parallel), and use another fuel pump to pressurise the water?
>
>Danny Barrett.
>
>
I beleive Sir Harry Ricard used 30-50% of fuel volume as a norm.
(this figure may have been primarily for turbo/supercharged appl).
Lots of folks have used a windshield washer tank/motor as a
dispenser (use a check valve so low manifold vacuum doesn't
draw it out).  Also anything more than just enough to get rid of the
detonation is a waste of fluid.  No real gains past that.  Might
be more info in archives, about this.  ie injector types methods.
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 19:36:26 1998
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 19:36:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dave J. Andruczyk" <dave@scarlet.buffalostate.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Sun 1215 engine analyzer.
In-Reply-To: <0ES800AY1YSHHN@kauri.lincoln.ac.nz>
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> I have been given a Sun 1215 engine analyzer from what I can gather it is 
> mainly for ignition analysis but it all so has a gas sniffer, HO's CO's I think.
> Anyway the guy who gave it to me had US$1250 of work done on it and it was 
> running great for a couple of months, then it didn't, the tech guy told him 
> memory card had died. The guy who owned it is off overseas and was going to 
> dump it if I didn't want it.
> Can anyone help me out with info on this beast as I'd like to get it up and 
> running again.

I worked on an older SUN analyzer, that had an igntion scope ( 8 channel)
with the diagnostic computer  that tested the igntion and charging
systems, and it also had a CO analyzer ( that didn't work cause all the
hoses fell apart..)  I donno the model num off hand but the prob with our
machine was a blow rectifier in the power supply. (the scope had worked
but the computer was down until i replaced it witha readio shack 35 amp
bridge..

email me back direct if you need more info/help..
dave@scarlet.buffalostate.edu



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 22:41:15 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Clarifications on last Programming 101
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 22:41:29 -0400
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Again please read all prior 101 text before trying to interupt this
as a complete thought.

I'm going to give a few examples of what a set of malfunction
code flags look like and how they change in a given application.

If we were to look a 747 bin file with a hex editor, we might see

050D     050E     050F
  FD         39          F9    would be stock
  FC         39          F9   would be no vss diagnostics (code 24)
  FD         39          79   would be no knock (code 43)
  FD         19          F9   would be no egr (code 32)
I hope this shines a tad more light on the issue.  Also note
how unique the pattern seems against all the other table
stuff.

Also, an address might better discribe 16 bytes, and an 
address of say 0000+0001, rather than a location of say
0000..

Cheers
Bruce       We need a Cone Shaped Hat representative in
                 washington, DC by the year 2000.  If I start
                 walking now I might make it in time..


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 23:23:04 1998
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From: Strasser <strasser@mci2000.com>
Subject: Fw: Supercharged 3800
To: DIY <DIY_EFI@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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If you mount your S/C downstream of your TB,  it seems you will see little
top end gain unless you increase your TB size.  Once the pressure drop
across your TB reaches a maximum (in fluid dynamics terms, this is the point
of "choking" -- sonic flow of a gas), it can "flow" no more...no matter what
is pulling on the other side.  For example, in carbureted applications, the
installation of a roots type supercharger under the carb, requires
increasing size of carb.


Wayne Strasser
Chemical Engineer
EFI Patent Pending

-----Original Message-----
From: TBK <terryk@foothill.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, April 28, 1998 9:23 PM
Subject: Re: Supercharged 3800


The Eaton M-62 is ~$1700US new $1300 rebuilt. M-90 a little higher. Contact
www.eaton.com

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: 'DIY_EFI' <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, April 28, 1998 4:27 PM
Subject: Supercharged 3800


>Hi all,
>
>Q regrading S/C 3800.
>
>In Aus thay're fitted in Holdens. Drove one on the weekend in a LWB luxo
barge Statesman and was extremely surprised by the grunt as well as the
linear power delivery.
>
>Now, wanted to force induct my own earlier 3800, questions I have is if I
mount the S/C between the engine and throttle body (with the MAP sensor on
the throttle body), can I get away with running a 1 bar/atmo MAP sensor as
the MAP would never see boost.
>
>My only concern is the MAP may be subject to too much vacuum under hi
rev/lo TPS.
>
>Would this cause a problem?
>
>Any comments suggestions?
>
>Anyone Stateside know the price of a factory S/C for a 3800 - a local
importer here has a new one but wants $1800. I can buy a brand new complete
engine from Holden for approx $5000, which makes the $1800 for a bare S/C
seem a little high :-(
>
>
>
>



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 23:23:05 1998
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 23:22:57 -0700
From: Strasser <strasser@mci2000.com>
Subject: Fw: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
To: DIY <DIY_EFI@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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I too am considering this as a mileage enhancement.  I would have to discuss
the potential gains for increasing the water input rate above that which is
required for stopping detonation.  Since the engine utilizes such a small
fraction of usable mechanical energy from the combustion of fuel, alot
escapes the exhaust (among other places...)  By injecting more water, the
normally-wasted heat energy is utilized to induce a phase change in the
water from liquid to vapor, which obviously raises combustion chamber
pressures since water (at STP) expands by a factor of ~ 1400 when
evaporated.  Obviously, there is some optimum point here, since the
existence of water molecules in the chamber impedes radical electron
transfer processes and drops temperatures (hence the impact on detonation).
not sure where that optimum is....comments from all?


Wayne Strasser
Chemical Engineer
EFI Patent Pending

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 30, 1998 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...


From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...


>I hope you didn't bite while you were writing this... Your tongue was
>obviously firmly planted in your cheek. As for what it has to do with
>injection... Nothing, except for the original email message (this is about
a
>fifth or sixth generation reply, and the stuff about EFI have gradually
been removed as

>build a simple "home made" water injection system, and how much water
should
>I use? Can I simply splice another injector into an injector control line
>(in parallel), and use another fuel pump to pressurise the water?
>
>Danny Barrett.
>
>
I beleive Sir Harry Ricard used 30-50% of fuel volume as a norm.
(this figure may have been primarily for turbo/supercharged appl).
Lots of folks have used a windshield washer tank/motor as a
dispenser (use a check valve so low manifold vacuum doesn't
draw it out).  Also anything more than just enough to get rid of the
detonation is a waste of fluid.  No real gains past that.  Might
be more info in archives, about this.  ie injector types methods.
Cheers
Bruce



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 30 23:28:09 1998
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From: Ecmnuts <Ecmnuts@aol.com>
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 23:27:37 EDT
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In a message dated 98-04-30 22:50:47 EDT, you write:

<< FD         39          F9    would be stock
   FC         39          F9   would be no vss diagnostics (code 24)
   FD         39          79   would be no knock (code 43)
   FD         19          F9   would be no egr (code 32)
 I hope this shines a tad more light on the issue. >>

It always helps when you just post the answers...Waiting for more info thanks.
You could always just speed things up a little and post everything you have
now.  Why drag it out?

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 00:04:09 1998
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...
<< From:	Ecmnuts@aol.com (Ecmnuts) >>
Who ARE YOU??  I'm in plural  ^^^^^^^  format now?
Please sign your posts, so people that I respect
don't think I'm raggin on'em <g>
Thanks,
Mike V.
(singular) ecmnut@aol.com

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 00:22:59 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Supercharged 3800
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 14:21:23 +1000
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Thanks for the reply,

What would be the difference if the SC is mounted downstream (i.e after) 
compared to upstream (i.e before) the throttle body - to me it seems almost 
the same i.e interms of throttle body restriction, 10 psi vaccum after the 
TB vs 10 psi of pressure before the TB would result in the same flow across 
the TB.

For me, mounting the SC after the TB would make for a cleaner install.

BTW to all those interested, I can get the Eaton as fitted to the S/C 3800 
for AUS$950 across the local parts counter.

Peter

----------
From: 	Strasser
Sent: 	Friday, May 01, 1998 4:14 PM
To: 	DIY
Subject: 	Fw: Supercharged 3800

If you mount your S/C downstream of your TB,  it seems you will see little
top end gain unless you increase your TB size.  Once the pressure drop
across your TB reaches a maximum (in fluid dynamics terms, this is the 
point
of "choking" -- sonic flow of a gas), it can "flow" no more...no matter 
what
is pulling on the other side.  For example, in carbureted applications, the
installation of a roots type supercharger under the carb, requires
increasing size of carb.


Wayne Strasser
Chemical Engineer
EFI Patent Pending

-----Original Message-----
From: TBK <terryk@foothill.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, April 28, 1998 9:23 PM
Subject: Re: Supercharged 3800


The Eaton M-62 is ~$1700US new $1300 rebuilt. M-90 a little higher. Contact
www.eaton.com

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: 'DIY_EFI' <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, April 28, 1998 4:27 PM
Subject: Supercharged 3800


>Hi all,
>
>Q regrading S/C 3800.
>
>In Aus thay're fitted in Holdens. Drove one on the weekend in a LWB luxo
barge Statesman and was extremely surprised by the grunt as well as the
linear power delivery.
>
>Now, wanted to force induct my own earlier 3800, questions I have is if I
mount the S/C between the engine and throttle body (with the MAP sensor on
the throttle body), can I get away with running a 1 bar/atmo MAP sensor as
the MAP would never see boost.
>
>My only concern is the MAP may be subject to too much vacuum under hi
rev/lo TPS.
>
>Would this cause a problem?
>
>Any comments suggestions?
>
>Anyone Stateside know the price of a factory S/C for a 3800 - a local
importer here has a new one but wants $1800. I can buy a brand new complete
engine from Holden for approx $5000, which makes the $1800 for a bare S/C
seem a little high :-(
>
>
>
>



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end



From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 00:24:23 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 00:24:36 -0400
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From: Strasser <strasser@mci2000.com>
To: DIY <DIY_EFI@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 30, 1998 11:58 PM
Subject: Fw: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...


I too am considering this as a mileage enhancement.  I would have to discuss
the potential gains for increasing the water input rate above that which is
required for stopping detonation.

I beleive Sir Harry Ricard used 30-50% of fuel volume as a norm.
(this figure may have been primarily for turbo/supercharged appl).
Lots of folks have used a windshield washer tank/motor as a
dispenser (use a check valve so low manifold vacuum doesn't
draw it out).  Also anything more than just enough to get rid of the
detonation is a waste of fluid.  No real gains past that.  Might
be more info in archives, about this.  ie injector types methods.
Cheers
Bruce

Sir Harry Ricardo has covered it in more detail than I mentioned
his book "the High Speed Internal Combustion Engine", last
revision 1965,  is the best source of this, that I know of.
  I've seen no gain in MPG, and slight gains in HP in naturally
aspirated engines.  Now when ya talk turbos, I've had intakes
hot enough to cook paint off of (60 PSI, of boost), and it makes
a HUGE Increase in HP, when ya have the water right.  And the
30-50% figures hold true for diesel, and gas in my experiences.
  I've also tried a humidifier set up where a percentage of the
intake charge air was drawn from above a water trap type
device.
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 00:38:47 1998
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Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 23:29:02 -0400
From: Scott Linder <lindross@inetdirect.net>
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james ,

the name  is  Jim Linder at
www.lindertech.com
or you can call direct at  317-487-9460  and talk to Jim Linder (the injector
guru) or Doug Garriot ( the injector wizzard)  .
Both Guys are absolute genius status with injectors and have the best prices
and service anywhere !
Their shop is on the gasoline Alley by the Indy 500 track in Indianapolis.

Scooter.

James Weiler wrote:

> I'm looking for a Jeff (I think this is his first name) Linder (I hope
> this is his last name).  He operates an injector cleaning and flow testing
> facility.  I need some O-rings and those plastic end caps.  I hope I'm
> remembering the right guy, any help would be appreciated.
> thanks everybody
> jw




From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 00:59:23 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Clarifications on last Programming 101
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 00:59:37 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Ecmnuts <Ecmnuts@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 12:06 AM
Subject: Re: Clarifications on last Programming 101


It always helps when you just post the answers...Waiting for more info
thanks.
>You could always just speed things up a little and post everything you have
now.  Why drag it out?

>
What makes ya think I know anything more about these topics??..

Makes it kinda like a Tom Clancy novel.  Lots of techno stuff,
and ya just never know where the next turn is..
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 01:08:51 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Supercharged 3800
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 01:09:07 -0400
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: 'diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 12:52 AM
Subject: RE: Supercharged 3800


>Thanks for the reply,
>
>What would be the difference if the SC is mounted downstream (i.e after)
>compared to upstream (i.e before) the throttle body - to me it seems almost
>the same i.e interms of throttle body restriction, 10 psi vaccum after the
>TB vs 10 psi of pressure before the TB would result in the same flow across
>the TB.
>
>For me, mounting the SC after the TB would make for a cleaner install.
>
>Peter
>
Is this TB for TBI or for a TPI?.  If TBI then it means your displacing
air out of the blower because of the fuel load.  If multi port then ya
want the injectors close to the blower so the fuel has time to absorb
some of the heat out of the intake charge, rather than right up by the
intake valve.
  All blowers need some lubrication.   If the TB is upstream of the
blower than the engine vacuum is going to try and draw this lube
into the intake charge when closing the butterflies at high rpm.
If the butterflies are below the blower it sees no vacuum during
this period of overrun.
  HTH
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 01:41:51 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Supercharged 3800
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 22:39:57 -0700
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What's the current exchange rate?

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: 'diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 30, 1998 9:52 PM
Subject: RE: Supercharged 3800


>Thanks for the reply,
>
>What would be the difference if the SC is mounted downstream (i.e after)
>compared to upstream (i.e before) the throttle body - to me it seems almost
>the same i.e interms of throttle body restriction, 10 psi vaccum after the
>TB vs 10 psi of pressure before the TB would result in the same flow across
>the TB.
>
>For me, mounting the SC after the TB would make for a cleaner install.
>
>BTW to all those interested, I can get the Eaton as fitted to the S/C 3800
>for AUS$950 across the local parts counter.
>
>Peter
>
>----------
>From: Strasser
>Sent: Friday, May 01, 1998 4:14 PM
>To: DIY
>Subject: Fw: Supercharged 3800
>
>If you mount your S/C downstream of your TB,  it seems you will see little
>top end gain unless you increase your TB size.  Once the pressure drop
>across your TB reaches a maximum (in fluid dynamics terms, this is the
>point
>of "choking" -- sonic flow of a gas), it can "flow" no more...no matter
>what
>is pulling on the other side.  For example, in carbureted applications, the
>installation of a roots type supercharger under the carb, requires
>increasing size of carb.
>
>
>Wayne Strasser
>Chemical Engineer
>EFI Patent Pending
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: TBK <terryk@foothill.net>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Tuesday, April 28, 1998 9:23 PM
>Subject: Re: Supercharged 3800
>
>
>The Eaton M-62 is ~$1700US new $1300 rebuilt. M-90 a little higher. Contact
>www.eaton.com
>
>TK
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
>To: 'DIY_EFI' <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Tuesday, April 28, 1998 4:27 PM
>Subject: Supercharged 3800
>
>
>>Hi all,
>>
>>Q regrading S/C 3800.
>>
>>In Aus thay're fitted in Holdens. Drove one on the weekend in a LWB luxo
>barge Statesman and was extremely surprised by the grunt as well as the
>linear power delivery.
>>
>>Now, wanted to force induct my own earlier 3800, questions I have is if I
>mount the S/C between the engine and throttle body (with the MAP sensor on
>the throttle body), can I get away with running a 1 bar/atmo MAP sensor as
>the MAP would never see boost.
>>
>>My only concern is the MAP may be subject to too much vacuum under hi
>rev/lo TPS.
>>
>>Would this cause a problem?
>>
>>Any comments suggestions?
>>
>>Anyone Stateside know the price of a factory S/C for a 3800 - a local
>importer here has a new one but wants $1800. I can buy a brand new complete
>engine from Holden for approx $5000, which makes the $1800 for a bare S/C
>seem a little high :-(
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 02:14:39 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Supercharged 3800
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 16:15:57 +1000
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Reply-To: diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Hi Bruce,

TB is for throttle body and definetely MPI. 

Blower will mount between engine and throttle body ala factory S/C 3800.

Still have the MAP linearity probs we discussed. May investigrate using the MAF hotwire system.

Peter

----------
From: 	Bruce Plecan
Sent: 	Friday, May 01, 1998 3:09 PM
To: 	diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: Supercharged 3800

From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: 'diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 12:52 AM
Subject: RE: Supercharged 3800


>Thanks for the reply,
>
>What would be the difference if the SC is mounted downstream (i.e after)
>compared to upstream (i.e before) the throttle body - to me it seems almost
>the same i.e interms of throttle body restriction, 10 psi vaccum after the
>TB vs 10 psi of pressure before the TB would result in the same flow across
>the TB.
>
>For me, mounting the SC after the TB would make for a cleaner install.
>
>Peter
>
Is this TB for TBI or for a TPI?.  If TBI then it means your displacing
air out of the blower because of the fuel load.  If multi port then ya
want the injectors close to the blower so the fuel has time to absorb
some of the heat out of the intake charge, rather than right up by the
intake valve.
  All blowers need some lubrication.   If the TB is upstream of the
blower than the engine vacuum is going to try and draw this lube
into the intake charge when closing the butterflies at high rpm.
If the butterflies are below the blower it sees no vacuum during
this period of overrun.
  HTH
Bruce



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