J5: Vs, To sensor connector xx  (Red) 
J6: Ip, To sensor connector xx (White)
J7: Vs/Ip Gnd, To sensor connector xx (Black)

J9: CalR, To sensor connector xx 
J10: CalR, To sensor connector xx 
(No wire to sensor - CalR is in connector housing)

J8: AFR voltage value output, Referenced to ground (J12) 
(see Vout Table for Vout to AFR conversion)

J1: +V to sensor heater connector xx (Orange)
J2: -V to sensor heater connector xx (Yellow)

          ---v---   
        1 |o    | 14
        2 |     | 13
        3 |     | 12
        4 |     | 11
        5 |     | 10
        6 |     |  9
        7 |     |  8
      -------

        U2, U3 & U4

        ---v---
        1 |o    | 4
        2 |     | 3
        -------
         ISO1

You may find it helpful to printout the .jpg schematics from the info page to follow along with if there is a problem while doing the checkout procedure. 

NOTE: At minimum steps 1 thru 14 and 37 thru 42 should be performed and verified before powering the controller and connecting to a wideband 02 sensor.    A full verification is reccommended and would include ALL steps (1 thru 42) below.
 

1. Do NOT power the heater circuit (yet). 
2. Do NOT connect the WB sensor. 
    
3. Measure the resistance of R28. 
   • Verify that it is 100 ohms (+- 1%). (99.0 to 101.0 ohm)
4. Apply power to the UEGO controller circuit, J11 & J12.
    

   
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    

   Voltage levels will now be checked, a DVM is required.
    

5. Measure voltage across ISO1 pins 1 & 2. Verify ~0 volts.
   • If not heater circuit may be bad or powered up.

   
   Connect the DVM ground to J12, UEGO controller ground.
    

6. Measure voltage at U5 pin 1. Verify 8 volts (+- 5%, 7.6 to 8.4 V) 
   • If not check R19, D9, C8 & C5. 
   • Regulator U5 may be bad. 
      
7. Measure voltage at U4 pin 1. Verify ~4 volts (+- 5%, 3.8 to 4.2 V).
   • If not check U4, C6, R12 & R13.
      
8. Measure voltage at J7, Vs/Ip gnd. Verify same as voltage at U4 pin 1. 
   • If not check R37, & C11.
      
9. Measure voltage at D11 pin 1 or 3. Verify 2.5 volts (+- 2%, 2.45 to 2.55 V).
   • If not check D11, & R23.
      
10. Measure voltage at U4 pin 8. Verify 2.5 volts (+- 2%, 2.45 to 2.55 V). 
    The voltage at U4 pins 9 & 10 should be very close to one another at ~ 3.6 volts.
    • If not check R29, R30, R20, & R10.
       
11. Measure voltage at U4 pin 7. Verify 2.5 volts (+- 2%, 2.45 to 2.55 V).
    • If not check CalR connections, R10, R15, R21, & R22.
       
12. Measure voltage at U3 pin 5. Verify 7.9 to 8.0 volts.
    • If not check ISO1, R38, & C12.
       
13. Measure voltage at U3 pin 4. Verify ~0 volts.
    • If not check ISO1, U3, R38, & C12.

    
    Connect DVM ground to J7, Vs/Ip gnd.
     

14. Measure voltage at U4 pin 14. Verify 0.45 volts (+- 2%, 0.441 to 0.459 V).
    • If not check D8 pin 2. Verify 1.235 volts (+- 2%, 1.21 to 1.26 V).
      • If not, check components R14 & D8.
      • If not check components R11, R14, R36, D8.

    
    At this point the supply voltages & voltage reference voltages have been verified. 
    Some additional voltage levels will now be verified. 

    Leave DVM ground connected to J7.
     

15. Measure voltage at U2 pin 14. verify ~2.75 volts.
    • Verify same voltage at U3 pin 6. 
    • Verify same voltage at U3 pin 13.
       
16. Measure voltage at U3 pin 12. Verify ~ -4 volts.
     
17. Measure voltage at J5 (Vs). Verify 2 volts (+- 5%, 1.9 to 2.1 V).
    • If not check R31, R32, & R35.
       
18. Measure voltage at U2 pin 1. Verify 2 volts (+- 5%, 1.9 to 2.1 V).
    • If not check U2.
       
19. Measure voltage at U2 pin 8. Verify ~2.7 volts.
    • If not check R18, C10, R33, & R34. 
       
20. Measure voltage at U2 both pins 5 and 9. Verify 0.45 volts (+- 2%, 0.441 to 0.459 V).
    • If not check R18.
       
21. Measure voltage at U2 pin 7. Verify ~ -3.4 volts.
    • If not check U2, R24, R33, R34, C7, & R17.
       
22. Measure voltage at U3 pin 9. Verify ~ 0 volts.
    • If not check R25, U3, D6, & D7.
       
23. Measure voltage at Q4 pin 3 (D10 pin 1). Verify ~ -3.5 volts.
    • If not check D10, R27, & Q4. 
       
24. Measure voltage at J6, Ip. Verify ~ 0 volts (+- .1 v)
    • If not check D6, D7, R26, R27, Q3, Q4, & R28.

    
    For the remaining tests the heater circuit will be operational. 

    If the LT1086 is not yet mounted it is still possible to complete these tests. On ISO1 short pins 3 & 4 together. A blob of solder works for this. If you do this do not power up the heater circuit.

    (NO sensor connected!) Power up the heater circuit and verify that it takes ~ 5 to 6 seconds for the heater ready LED to light. Do the following tests once the heater ready LED lights.

    Connect the DVM ground to J12, ground.
     

25. Measure voltage at U3 pin 5. Verify less than .1 volt.
    • If not check ISO1, C12, & R38. 

    
    Connect the DVM ground to J7, Vs/Ip gnd.
     

26. Measure voltage at U2 pin 13. Verify ~ .9 to 1.2 volts.
    • If not check R39 and R40.

    
    A wire or clip lead will be attached from U4 pin 14 (VSref) to J5 (Vs) or U2 pin 3. If a wire is used place a switch in it so that the connection may be easily opened. This connection will be referred to as 'the switch'. 

    For these tests the sensor feed back loop will be operational. Due to the integral portion of the circuit voltage levels will be changing. With the circuits powered up (heater & UEGO) connecting the U4-14 to J5 connection will cause the voltages to change. Opening the connection will cause the voltages to quickly reset to their original values (as measured above). 
     

27. Open the switch (off position). 
     

    
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Place the DVM ground to J7, Vs/Ip gnd.
     

28. Power up both circuits and wait until the heater ready LED lights.
     
29. Close the switch (on position).
     
30. Measure the voltage at U2 pin 1. Verify .45 volts (+- 2%, 0.441 to 0.459 V).
     
31. Measure the voltage at U3 pin 1. Verify ~ 4 volts.
    • If not check R16, C13 and U3.
       
32. Open the switch.
     
33. Measure the voltage at U2 pin 8. Verify ~2.7 volts.
     
34. Keeping the DVM on U2 pin 8 close the switch. The voltage will slowly drop. It will take ~ 2 minutes with the voltage reaching ~ -3.4 v.
    • If not check C10, R18, R34 and U2.
       
35. Open the switch. 
     
36. Measure the voltage at J6, Ip. Verify ~ 0 volts (+- .1 v).
    • Close the switch. The voltage should go to ~ -2.7 volts and slowly increase to ~ 2.4 volts.

    
    The following test verifies the pump drive (Ip) and the Vout circuitry. A resistor is required: anything between 100 and 510 ohms will suffice. Chose a resistor value within that range. If you have them all use the 220 ohm. This resistor can be a 1/4 W or greater. 
     

37. Open the switch (off). 
     
38. Place a jumper between J9 and J10 (CalR). 
    Either solder a wire in or use jumper clips.
     
39. Place the above mentioned resistor between J6 (Ip) and J7 (Ip/Vs Gnd). 
    Either solder in place or use jumper clips.
     

    Connect the DVM ground to J12, ground.
     

40. Measure the voltage at J8 (Vout). Verify ~2.5 volts (as in step 12). 
     
41. Close the switch (on).
     
42. Upon closing the switch the voltage at J8 will drop. After a pause the voltage will slowly increase. It will take approximately 1 minute & 15 seconds for the voltage to reach maximum. 

* Remove solder blob from ISO1 if previously added !

* MAKE SURE YOUR POWER IS FUSED!

You should now be ready to use your DIY-WB controller.