Re: Desensitizing GM knock sensors

["nacelp" <nacelp@bright.net>]

> > The if problem isn't false knock, then fix the cause of the knock.  Or
> > ignore it, and blow up the engine.  10PSI, and 9.4, that will be hard to
> > fix.  Try 6 and see where ya are.
> > You talk to the people that sold you that S/C?.
> > 9.4, on a N/A can be a headache.
> > 383, what for cam?.
> > Might check cam timing.
> > You also way out of calibration room.  You meantion 100 KPa.  You should
> > have a 2 bar MAP and get things right.  Course as things stand now I
don't
> > know anyone with a 2 bar calibration (program) for a LT1.
> > Grumpy

His is a 383, meaning stroker, poorer rod geometry.
Starts effecting timing, and I'll lay ya odds about timing and compression
changes needed.
10 to 6 PSI of boost is worlds away in my book.
It's been well over a year ago but I went around, and around, with some guys
on what to do with their stroker vortec (LT1).
Last e-mail was they were going back to 6 PSI, and different injectors,
after all kinds of tinkering.
This is just the mechanical end, there is still the issue of even having a
calibration that covers running conditions.
Grumpy



> Actually Bruce, 9.4 on a LT1 with a blower is not that much of a
> problem.    There are people that run (and it is on the edge) the
> stock 10.4 comp with 6 psi blowers without any timing retard, and
> don't get enough knock to destroy the stock pistons.   And that is on
> 93 octane gas not the much better stuff.
> Part of the LT1 designe allows for .5 or so greater comp ratios before
> you have knock over a non-LT1 engine.  Or at least that was something
> that GM claimed.
> Roger